#sarb033

Video Transcript:

Hey guys, I’m Max and this is WatchCrunch. So, you’ve decided to skip your yearly Apple watch upgrade and spend that money on a mechanical timepiece, which one do you get? Well, the $400 price point is a real sweet spot and we have a lot of great choices, but two watches quickly rise to the top of my list when I think about three major characteristics that make a good entry-level mechanical watch.

Number one, design aesthetics. We want something that’s versatile, so I’m not including the Seiko SKX and other very sporty models. Number two, brand heritage. We want something with a little bit of history, and so I’m going to avoid microbrands. Number three is technical specifications. This is the price point where we can expect to get into some higher-end materials like Sapphire Crystal or a hacking movement. With all that said, let’s compare the Seiko SARB033 and the Hamilton Khaki Automatic, and see who takes the crown as the king of $400.

Here are the two watches side by side. Both glossy black dials hailing from opposite continents. Though they take different approaches to their design, they also have many similarities, not least of which are their lovely display case backs showing off the guts of the watches. Let’s talk dimensions first. The Hamilton has a case diameter of 38 millimeters. A 42 is available but personally, that’s a bit big for me. It’s only 11 millimeters thin but has a relatively longer lug to lug of 47. Lug width on both watches are a convenient 20 millimeters.

On the SARB we have the same diameter, but the watch is one millimeter thicker. This, in [concert 00:02:26] with a more compact lug to lug of 44.5 actually makes this watch wear differently, more on that later. The field watch inherited design of the Hamilton is busy, but I wouldn’t call it clutter. Especially details like the concentric ring around the hour markers and the red-tipped secondhand, both adding dimension and visual interest.

The SARB takes a more classic approach. With its dauphine hands and stick hour markers, it’s a bit more stern and it has a little Datejust in it. But Don’t confuse classy with simple. With subtleties like the counterbalance of the second hand shaped like a sewing needle, it’s attention to detail gives it visual endurance.

A funny story, the Hamilton that’s pictured in this video, I actually gifted to a coworker. See, he used to not wear watches but would roll his eyes every time I would drone on about watches. Long story short, after wearing it for a while, now he’s doing research on which Speedmaster to buy next. So with the holiday season coming up, just a reminder, these watches made great gifts as well.

Okay. So does one of these brands have a better history than the other? Well, in 1881, a young Kintaro Hattori founded Seiko, which in Japanese translates to exquisite. The 1960s, [Sol Seiko 00:04:12] introduced their first professional diver as well as becoming one of the first companies to build an automatic chronograph movement. Of course, for better or worse, Seiko was also credited for decimating the Swiss watch industry with the advent of the Quartz Watch.

The ’90s saw the return of Grand Seiko, their high end line. And soon after, the invention of the Spring Drive movement, an achievement three decades in the making, combining the best of mechanical and quartz technologies. Now Hamilton wasn’t far behind, having been founded in 1892 in Lancaster, Pennsylvania. With the advent of the airplane, Hamilton supplied watches to the U.S. Air Mail service in the ‘20s.

Hamilton serviced the US Armed Forces during World War two, which is where the Khaki line draws its Field Watch inspirations from. The post-war decades saw Hamilton unveil bold designs in the Ventura, the world’s first electric watch, using a Magnetic Coil movement, and the Pulsar, the world’s first digital watch. In 1974, Hamilton joined the Swatch Group. And to this day, we continue to see Hamilton watches make appearances in Hollywood blockbusters.

Handling the Khaki Field Automatic, one thing that you appreciate is just how thin this case is. Not an easy achievement at this price point, especially considering having to allocate space for a display case back. With it’s elongated lugs, the watch rests flat on the wrist, managing to look appropriate in both formal and casual environments. The SARB on The other hand is a bit more stout in stature, though the lugs do help by turning downward at a more acute angle. The highlight would have to be the numerous alternating brushed and polished surfaces on the case, distinguishing it from other entry-level contenders.

Though no one would fault you for wearing the SARB with shorts and a t-shirt, especially if you throw it on a nylon strap, I think this watch is still better suited for more formal environments. The Hamilton pulls ahead a bit when we compare their movements. The modified ETA 2824, which Hamilton calls the H10 it [inaudible 00:06:52] a higher beat frequency for an astounding 80-hour power reserve. In comparison, the [more pedestrian 00:07:03] 6R15 found in the Seiko is no slouch. Also featuring hacking and hand winding, but it only has a 50-hour power reserve, and is both thicker and less well decorated. Here’s a look at the loom on these watches. I guess we shouldn’t be surprised that more of it is found on the Field Watch.

So both of these are awesome watches that are sure to last for decades, but here’s my take. If you’re looking for the ultimate versatile Jack of all trades to be your only watch, you’ve got to give it up to the Hamilton. But if you’re looking to expand your collection in the future, maybe get something more sporty, then the SARB is what the kids would call classy AF. Okay. Well, in the comments below, let me know your choice for the best first mechanical watch. So thank you for watching. Until next time, take care.

WatchCrunch