#reading patterns

Thanks so much for reading and liking my post about my sewing journey!

I tried answering the question from my inbox but had a little trouble and Tumblr ended up deleting my post :(

I recommend starting from YouTube. If you want to learn to read patterns there are a metric TON of tutorials there. I get a lot of inspiration from YouTube lately as I’m getting into more historical costume and what we now affectionately call historybounding. My favorite Costubers for inspiration are Morgan Donner and Bernadette Banner, who have really inspired me to dive into drafting/draping patterns for myself.

The thing it took me years to understand about mass-manufactured patterns is this: The pattern is designed for “average” body proportions, not for your specific body. You should compare your measurements not only to the measurement table on the pattern sleeve, but also to the finished garment measurements (sometimes these are listed on the pattern pieces themselves, but sometimes you have to measure them for yourself). Sometimes “Big 4″ patterns have an excessive amount of wearing or design ease that result in you wearing a big tent.

ALSO. Make mockups. Use thrift store bedsheets for this if you need a woven fabric. They’re waaaay cheaper than any other fabric source. If you’re making a knit item, either use those jersey bedsheets (if you can find them) or buy the cheapest knit that kind of matches the stretch and drape of the fabric you want to use. If you correct the fit on cheap fabric before you cut into your nice fashion fabric, you will save yourself a lot of grief.

Two of the alterations I make to almost every single mass-manufactured pattern I use are a full bust adjustment (I am a 34GG (UK) or 34J (US) bra size, so if I go by my widest measurement, the rest of the garment is humongous on me) and an armscye alteration (I raise the armholes on Big 4 patterns because they often sit too low for anyone. You get much better range of motion if your armholes are fitted closer to your armpit). Sometimes I also have to alter the bicep. You know your body best. If there’s some area you always have trouble fitting, you can find tutorials (on YouTube and elsewhere) to help with your specific fit issue.

Good luck! Happy Sewing! Post what you make so I can cheer you on!

How Do People Read Online?

Most of us are writers, one way or another. We share our thoughts in blogs and ebooks. And you may have noticed that I have been experimenting recently with emphasizing certain parts of my posts, breaking up longer texts in chapters, and playing around with various formats.

I am doing this to test the so-called F-Shaped pattern of reading. This is a description of how people read online. It was…

Since I made a tutorial on how to read the packages that the patterns come in, I decided my next tutorial would be to teach you how to read the directions. However if you’re just starting sewing, I recommend starting simple with simple sewing. It’ll keep you from finding big words on the patterns that you don’t understand.

So this is the pattern I’m using for the demonstration of talking it through. It’s one of the simplest patterns I own.

Now this pattern is a knits only pattern. It only works with knitted stretch fabrics. Sometimes knits can be tricky due to stretch but this pattern is very simple should you choose to use it.

Let’s begin!

So when you open up the instructions, you’ll find this folded up and there will be two pages both front and back. The first page has all the general info you’ll need and once you flip to the back it’ll start with the instructions. So let’s look at the front page.

So at the top left you’ll find the list of all the options of what you’re making. Then directly next to it will be a list of all the pattern pieces and what pieces go to which option of clothing you’re making. This helps you figure out which pieces you’ll need to cut out.

Then on the right you’ll find a section called General Directions. It’s basically exactly what it sounds like. It’s basically directions for the pattern. The cutting/Marking section is almost always the same. Just showing you how to make the appropriate marks. The Pattern section contains the symbols you’ll find on the pattern pieces themselves and explains exactly what they mean. You’ll also find that under the pattern and the sewing section that it tells you the stitch/seam allowance. You’ll want to always check that before you begin sewing.

The lower section of the first page goes into the best cutting layouts for what your making. They give one for every option. Since this pattern is a knit only, all knits come at about 58″ wide so they only show the layout for that width of fabric. You’ll find on patterns that have cottons, which come at around 44″ wide, that there will be options for both widths. Sometimes it helps to look at the layouts that are suggested. You might decide that you want a little extra just in case because typically i find that it can be a little tight.

Once you flip to the back, you’ll find a few more layouts then begins the sewing directions. At the top of the sewing instructions, there will be the diagram of what shading means what side of the fabric it is. Some patterns will give you little tips at the top, especially when they’re fabric specific.

Now I didn’t picture all of the instructions but basically from there you’ll follow the steps under the option of your choice. If you are starting simple like I suggested, it should be basic stitches. All basic and easy. However if you ever have questions on what a direction means, I’ll happily answer.

And for fun, here’s a picture of the finished product that I made for myself of one of those shirts. Apologize for the bathroom mess.