#rambada

The sacred Char Dham Yatra - the ultimate pilgrimage - covering four of the holy shrines at Yamunotri, Gangotri, Kedarnath and Badrinath had opened for this season of the year 2013. Thousands of pilgrims from all over the country and many from around the world had reached these Dhams, the holiest of the holy shrines, and many were on their way. It was also the peak of the summer season; and especially with school vacations in most parts of the country, it only added to the rush on the hills. So, it was not only the pilgrims but many tourists were also visiting this cool and picturesque destinations in the state of Uttarakhand. It was beyond anyone’s imagination that very soon the future course of their life is going to change, everlastingly!

In the middle of June, 15th date onwards, monsoon arrived thick and fast, two weeks much-in-advance all over in the ridges of Uttarakhand. Torrential rains lashed across all over the hills. It turned cold, scenic, with streaks of water started flowing all through the hills, rivers bursting with seam, clouds touching down and floating all over the region like large pieces of cotton. The view was as heavenly and pictorial as one can only dream of! So, with these perfect settings of the serene surroundings, it was least expected that very soon monsoon fury will unfold to such massive destruction and cause widespread havoc. My parents, who around this time, were visiting our village near Pauri, called up on 15th June alerting us to withhold our plans of coming to the village home as rains were incessant and literally pouring. Local roads were not motor-able any more. Our first reaction was that it could be one of those regular spells of heavy rains the place usually gets around this time. We thus stayed on course with our plans to visit to the home state in the coming days. Later, when we saw news reports on TV and newspapers, we realised the seriousness and magnitude of nature’s fury. Although Pauri was safe but it made all the sense to shelve our plans, and tracking all the developments from the safety of our home in Delhi.

By this time, news started flashing on all the mediums that many areas in Uttarakhand, Rudprayag in particular, is witnessing three days of unprecedented and nonstop heavy downpour. Alaknanda and Mandakini rivers were swelling violently, stretching at the banks and rising many feet up, surging and drowning the suspension bridges, houses, hotels, dormitories and temples perched on the river banks. Extremely disturbing visuals of the flash floods started to appear across all the news channels, over the internet and dailies.  Hundreds of houses and buildings were collapsing like pack of cards, and were being uprooted and swept away by the brute and ferocious current of raging river. It appeared as if such dwellings and buildings never existed, not even ruins remained! Many of the building were left suspended on the river banks as the chunks of lands underneath had caved in and washed away. Furious rivers were carving out their own way engulfing and bulldozing all the concrete structures encroached upon its banks. Motor vehicles of all shapes and sizes like cars, SUVs, heavy machinery, trucks and buses were all floating in the mighty and bulging flow of river, just like light-weighted plastic toys. Nature fittingly conveying that nothing holds stronger than the nature itself. Massive and sliced up portions of land were falling apart into the river with thunderous splash. Several meters of roads at numerous places had disappeared; damaged and disintegrated. Heavy boulders of various shapes and sizes had rolled down from high hills, lying scattered at several stretches of the national highway road, blocking the traffic movement, bringing it to a screeching halt; thus causing long serpentine queues of the vehicles. National Highway-58, in particular, was badly affected by the rain fury; damaged, washed away and dilapidated. Many of the bridges which were built over the raging rivers had submerged, swayed and disfigured, got dismantled and swept away.

Multitude of rain formed water streaks and streams appeared from nowhere trickling down from the high hills onto prominent rivers Alaknanda, Mandakini and Bhagirathi. The holy confluence at Devprayag, where Alaknanda and Bhagirathi meet, was flooded to extremely dangerous levels. The confluence had swelled with almost 50 feet high water levels. I could not believe it when I saw the visuals of rising water levels at the confluence where we have been many times before but never ever seen such dangerously high levels of water with our own eyes. The roads by its side, which we have driven through in the past, had developed massive cracks and fissures. Fortunately, since habitat at this confluence is perched higher up on the hill, it appeared that no casualties and loss of property was reported at Devprayag. However, few days later it was reported that a village in Devprayag had also witnessed cloudburst causing several casualties. Many village houses were damaged due to sudden downpour. Rivers were brimming to such an unexpected levels; that water had nowhere to go but to spill over to the ashrams at low lying Rishikesh and Haridwar. One can also gauge the heightened surge in water levels of river Ganges by the fact that a 14 feet high Lord Shiva idol installed by the river side of Parmarth Ashram was fully submerged. The statue withstood the roaring force of the flooded river for a while but it also gave in, at last, and swept away.

By now rain had caused enormous havoc and extensive damage; countless life lost and immeasurable destruction of property and infrastructure had occurred. But, the worst was waiting to unfold! It was the intervening night of 16th and 17th June 2013 when massive devastation struck at high altitude Kedarnath, the holy shrine of Lord Shiva. The Kedar valley emerged as the epicentre of massive destruction; the most affected one. It rained the whole night and in the wee hours of 17th June, a loud cloudburst poured over Kedarnath unleashing the worst fury of the rains rolling down the hill. Sudden burst of water from the high hills brought along with it the mountainous boulders, mud and tons of debris. The local market and houses surrounding the shrine were all destroyed and submerged under a thick layer of silt. Miraculously, the holy Kedarnath temple stood firm and mighty while all the other structures around it went down and collapsed. In fact, the holy shrine split up the raging flow of the stream and subdued the downward force of the flow. Many pilgrims are feared to be buried under the weight of the wreckage and the sludge. Later, as one would have seen in the pictures, many human bodies and animals were found scattered, trapped inside the ruins and buried under the weight of the rubble. People had no chance to escape; they were either frozen in the thick mud and or swept away to a painful death. Seeing the horrific flood, many fled towards the higher reaches and towards the jungles atop to save their life. Many lost their way and were feared dead due to hunger, thirst and extreme cold conditions. Guarikund and Rambada were equally destructed and devastated. Kedar valley and all the surrounding areas were completely cut-off as approach roads and bridges were all washed away. Where, thousands of humans disappeared, and just imagine the fate of hundreds of mules and ponies who were put through the rigour to transport pilgrims and the goods; they all seem to have been swept away too.

As the time passed, and days progressed; many more news reports started airing in from other parts of Uttarakhand where rain had caused much distress and loss of life. Thousands of people, pilgrims and locals, were stranded; thirsty, hungry, sleepless and restless, facing the harsh and adverse weather. Areas like Tilwada, Srinagar, Gangotri, Uttarkashi town, Chamoli, Haridwar, Rishikesh, Devprayag, Joshimath, Harsil, Dharasu, Govindghat were badly affected by the fury of the massive rains. Though Badrinath shrine was safe but pilgrims were stranded there too as roads had collapsed and closed. Harsil had the same story to tell, people were left stranded and were anxiously waiting for their evacuation. Many houses at Srinagar were filled with mud, to such a level that it almost touched their ceilings. Soon, and as always, our acclaimed Army was pressed into the rescue act. Dehradun and Gauchar became the hub of rescue operations. Army choppers were flying all over the affected regions lifting the stranded people and families alike. But, the intermittent rains and overcast cloudy conditions were hampering the rescue and relief operations badly. Force personnel were also risking their life carrying out the operations in such bad weather, as the cause involved and the scale of tragedy was much worth than the risk. Each passing day brought out tragic and harrowing tales from the rescued people. Many people spent nights inside the dense forests living off on leaves and rain water to gratify their hunger and thirst. Many untold stories got buried under the rubble or got washed away in the current.

I also called-up one of my cousins, who stay near Augustmuni, district Rudraprayag, to check if they were all safe. Although their village was unaffected but grief had descended as three young lads of the village were found to be missing while they were visiting their district town.

Given the gargantuan levels of the rain ravage, leading politicians and state governments started announcing monetary assistance. Many of them started landing in the hill state to express solidarity and grief. Politicians and political parties were finding an opportunity of politics in these grievous moments of tragedy; virtually a race to be the first mover, all trying to score political mileage and credit taking. People were angry as relief measures in the initial days were nowhere to be seen. Scores of fuming people vented their anger and frustration on the political leaders over virtually non-existent and non-functional state Government disaster management machinery. Had it not been for the valiant efforts of our armed forces, casualties would have been running much higher in number. Even now, after over a week of the disaster, no one has the count of loss of life although it is feared to be running in thousands. Countless have disappeared without a trace and many stranded in inaccessible locations.

Such is the enormity of the disaster that the hill state, which was formed in year 1999, has reared backwards by few years of economical and infrastructure growth that it had achieved since the time it was granted the independent statehood status. Especially the roads and bridges infrastructure, it had built over the years, had collapsed, caved in with several stretches of highways wiped out. Such was the extent of damage that there were no signs of road left; as if nature has carved out a brand new steep valley fresh out of the hills. In all probability, it will take many years of effort and resources to rebuild and resurrect the infrastructure again in this tourism powered state. Scores of local people have lost their lives, livelihood and homes. Especially the ones on living on the riverside and the victims of landslides and cloudburst, their agricultural land as well as means of livelihood like motor-vehicles and livestock have all gone. Many more have lost their only source of income that came from running the hotels, motels, dhabas, tea kiosks, taxis, grocery shops, flour mills; as it all got washed away or in a state of no recovery. Many people have also lost employment who used to work with various hotels, resorts and tour operators spread all over the tragedy struck regions. It is for sure that, although for a short-term, even the tourism industry - the prime revenue generator - will be severely impacted. Frightening images of devastation, loss of life and property, landslides and flooded rivers will play into tourists mind deterring them away from visiting the hill state in near future. This reluctance on their part may further compound the livelihood of households who only survive on the income and opportunities generated by tourist’s inflow. It is an equal disaster on economical front too. Colossal damage has been inflicted upon this beautiful state of Uttarakhand, widely known as Dev Bhum, the land of God.

Above all, it is the loss of life – generations have been wiped out, of near and dear ones, old, young, teenagers and children of all age – which towers much more than anything else this catastrophe has caused to the agony and grief stricken people of this state and country. With no news of kins, people from across the cities, in search of all those missing, are reaching various parts of Uttarakhand holding photographs of their loved ones to their chest. Bus depots and railway stations are packed with such people, in search of their near and dear ones. With tears in their eyes, they only hope that their dearest are still alive and awaiting rescue. Such is the heartbreaking and depressing picture of devastation that you are only left to cry. Eyes get moist hearing the agonising tales of survival and death which is unfolding with each passing day.

Ever since, I have been tracking this catastrophic tragedy watching news channels, sifting through dailies and volumes of internet pages. In fact whole nation is glued to various mediums to keep a tab on day to day developments. Kith and kin of the people struck in disaster are also trying to keep an eye on rescue operations; and hoping to find whereabouts of their loved ones. Media has played a crucial role in dissemination of news reports from ground zero; about life and death, lost and found, destruction, rescue and relief operations. It was quite commendable on the part of the brave reporters who walked miles in trying conditions to cover each passing moment of the calamity struck state. While local administration response left much to be desired, it was the armed forces especially Indian Army, Air force, ITBP and others who put in their selfless, tireless, humane and heroic efforts - in deploying sorties, building temporary bridges over the violent rivers, rappelling over the streams, laying foot-tracks and ropeways, distributing food and supplies - thus saving thousands of lives by their swift and timely evacuation. It didn’t deter them a bit even when one of their helicopters crashed killing the crew and people on board, 20, as reported. My heart goes out to the families of these soldiers who lost their lives while carrying out rescue operations in such difficulties. They were the most responsive in this need of the hour and crisis of Himalayan scale. Many salutes to our soldiers, their stature only grows on us!

As I conclude writing my piece, rescue operations were still on in full swing. Count of the casualties are yet to be confirmed, dead bodies are yet to be cremated, combing operations to be launched for missing and trapped ones, also speeding up of relief measures for locals and the needy, clearing of roads, debris and rebuilding of infrastructure, resettlement and rehabilitation of local populace, restoration of utility services are all being worked on by Government machinery. With each passing day, imminent dangers of epidemic are also looming large as dead bodies begin to rot.

It is for sure that hill state of Uttarakhand, will take many years to rebuild and stand up on its feet again. This Himalayan devastation has left an indelible and unpleasant mark on people’s mind. Questions are also being raised whether it is a manmade disaster? It may be true to quite an extent given the fact that large scale uncontrolled construction has mushroomed on the river beds and river banks, extensive mining and quarrying activities in the hills, explosive-laden blasting and building of numerous hydro power dams are impacting the environment and the green cover, badly. How can we occupy river beds and river banks for construction activities? Time and again, nature will make its own way; no one can ever withstand its fury. Lessons needs to be learnt, unfortunately, no one does! It is like playing senselessly with nature; left, right and centre, in the name of development and reasoning it with public interest! No denial that we need development but it must be in sync with maintaining environment and ecological balance. One can't ignore environmental imbalances for the sake of development.  Such development has no meaning if it is compromised and infringes upon nature. Human greed has no end; one day we are going to sell our planet earth to this very uncontrollable greed and then wait for calamity to make way for our own ‘not so heavenly' abode! Rivers and ridges must be left their natural way, no meddling of any sort, please! But the irony is, people go back to their normal life without learning any lessons. I only hope nature is given its due respect else it will keep punishing us, time and again!

Uttarakhand being in my heart and my home state, it is all the more immensely painful to see such a massive scale of devastation in this pristine land of gods. I had tears trickling down seeing the extremely disturbing footage of destruction and the dead. I offer my heartfelt feelings and sincere sympathies to the bereaved families. I am praying to the almighty for the safety of the ones missing and herewith tender my solace to the tragedy traumatised people.

Once again many thanks to Indian forces for their speedy relief, rescue and evacuation operations. I salute them all, and those who helped.

May departed souls rest in peace!

© Anil Bisht

(account based on my connect with the place, what I saw on TV and my phone conversations with my relatives in the region)