#pruning trees

Information on pruning overgrown plants.

Your goals are to have adequate air flow throughout the plant, remove diseased or dead branches, and have good light penetrating the entire plant.

Remove any branch that is rubbing against another. This can cause an open wound on the branch, which is an opportunity for disease to invade the plant.

Remove branches that are growing toward the center of the plant. Also, remove any branches that cross each other. Remember we want to provide both air circulation and light penetration.

Remove any dead or diseased branches. A dead branch will be brittle, its buds will be brown. While a live branch will be flexible, buds will be green and there will be a green layer under the bark.

Generally, remove 1/3 of the plants’ height or 1/3 of its branches.

Remove any suckers and or waterspouts. These 2 types of branches look similar, growing straight up. However, a sucker originates from the roots or below the graft. While the waterspout will be vigorous and originate from the trunk or large branches.

Here is some additional information:

https://extension.umd.edu/.../water-sprouts-or-suckers.../

https://www.uky.edu/Ag/Horticulture/QRLabels/Pruning.html...

I've talked about all the selfish-people reasons for tree pruning, but there are a few situations when it's okay for us to interfere and meddle with our trees. First one is, if our tree has a lot of dead wood on it. Meaning, it has branches that are dried up or infected with rot, maybe as a result of some pest or accident; they're falling down and creating debris, possibly dangerous for falling on your head. That is something that is always acceptable to prune off, since the tree has already written those parts off, and she won't miss them when they're gone.

Second scenario in which you can cut something off, is when there's disease showing on a particular branch. If it's happening on the main trunk, there's not much to do, but if it's starting from a branch that can be taken off, it's better to take this potential problem away, rather than risking your entire tree getting sick. Trees can often deal with sickness on their own, so in a lot of cases, you can just wait and see how she does before deciding to do anything.

Another scenario is when you're growing a large tree, and it has multiple leaders; meaning multiple branches are trying to grow into trunks and are competing to be the new main trunk. In smaller trees this is often normal, decorative, and done on purpose, a small tree can sustain multiple trunks. However, a large tree will develop balance problems, and is very dangerous for you, and herself, to have multiple leads.

Only the original trunk is connected to the ground and the roots; other branches are not a part of the trunk, and are merely laminated in place. If they grow into a leader, there's not much holding them onto the tree; as soon as they grow too large, they will develop bark, possibly rot between themselves and the original trunk, and break off. This is a game of balance and chance, a tree can grow very large before one of the leaders breaks off, and the larger it gets, the more dangerous it is.

Here's a picture illustrating just how a branch is connected to the trunk:

You can see they're not one continuous body; there's a part that belongs to the branch, and a part that belongs to the trunk. While the trunk is bigger and stronger than the branch, it will grow without  a problem. If the branch competes with the trunk and grows vertically, it's clear this structure will not be able to support it, and it will eventually break off. After it starts breaking off like this, the tree is likely to lose her balance completely, and rot from the inside. One-leader, healthy trees, can live forever.

This picture will also help you understand where to cut off a branch in order for the tree to be able to heal correctly. Here's three ways in which people cut off branches.

Now why would one way be correct, and other two not? Because every time you cut a tree, you're introducing rot. In the first case, you're leaving the tree with an entire rotting stub to deal with. In the second, you're digging into the collar ring that connects the tree and the branch; this collar belongs to the trunk, not the branch you're cutting off. If you cut into it, you're damaging the trunk. Ideal way to cut is to go exactly between that (sometimes invisible) ring and the rest of the branch. This way, the rot will only go as far as the branch was being held inside of the tree, and the tree will be able to heal the damage safely. Here's a diagram to explain it better:

Second set of trees illustrates just how far we've allowed rot to enter the tree. If you do it right, the tree will be able to heal properly from it, and she will not be terribly bothered by it.

Source: PlantAmnesty

Click here for post on Tree Roots!

Here for Root Flare!

Here for Pruning Mistakes!

1: Correct planting trees:

2. Correct pruning:

3. Trunk Flare exposure (trunk flare is the part between the bark and the roots!)

I heavily pruned an apple tree which had been skipped for a few years because of Reasons

and now I have a crapton of really straight apple poles ranging up to about 7cm diameter at the thick end

1. Assessing Your Commercial Landscape's Unique Needs

As autumn hues paint the landscape, it's crucial for commercial property managers to start planning for winter. Preparing your commercial landscape for winter can help you avoid costly repairs and safety hazards. Each property has its unique characteristics, and these eight fall strategies will guide you in safeguarding your commercial landscape against the harsh winter elements.

2. Perform a Comprehensive Clean-Up

The first step in preparing your commercial landscape for winter is to conduct a thorough clean-up. Remove leaves, debris, and dead plants to ensure your property looks tidy and to prevent potential hazards.

3. Pruning and Tree Maintenance

Proper pruning and tree maintenance are essential during the fall season. Trimming branches and removing deadwood enhances the aesthetic appeal and minimizes the risk of falling limbs during winter storms.

4. Fertilization and Soil Health

Fall is an ideal time to fortify your commercial landscape's soil health. Fertilize your lawns and plants to provide them with the essential nutrients they need to withstand the harsh winter conditions.

5. Irrigation System Winterization

To prevent costly damage to your irrigation system, it's crucial to winterize it before freezing temperatures arrive. This step ensures that your system won't burst or malfunction during the cold months.

6. Plant Protection and Mulching

Applying a layer of mulch around your plants helps regulate soil temperature, conserve moisture, and guard against frost damage, all of which are important aspects of protecting your plants from harsh winter weather.

7. Snow and Ice Management Planning

Don't wait until the first snowfall to plan for snow and ice removal. Establish a clear snow management plan and contract with a reliable snow removal service to keep your property safe and accessible during winter.

8. Hardscape Inspection and Repair

Inspect your commercial property's hardscape features, such as walkways and retaining walls, for signs of wear and damage. Addressing issues now can prevent further deterioration during the winter.

In order for trees to survive the cold winter, they will undergo to a natural process which they have adapted to stay alive. You can also help your trees to survive the harsh winter conditions by pruning them. Our tree pruning experts in Martin's Tree Service can help.