My heart broke when I heard Daniel’s story, a young man whose father left the family when he was 7and whose only brother, at the age of 5 months, was stolen from their family by a rich neighbor. The neighbor was able to bribe the Bolivian court to counterfeit the birth papers to gain custody, and when Daniel attempted to reunite with his long lost brother fifteen years later to tell him the truth, he was deemed a lunatic and creep by his very own blood. On top of that, his mother was too poor to pay for his education and Daniel was working overtime and skipping meals just to complete his second year of university.
This is not an unfamiliar story in a country where corruption is rampant and human rights violations abound, but are usually swept under the rug. What should be god given freedoms and rights, often seem out of hands reach when 75% of the population lives below the poverty line and 21% of children (between 8 and 14) work out of necessity in dangerous mines or on the street as lustrabotas. With neighboring countries flourishing, Bolivians struggle in vain to keep their nation out of the grasps of poverty, corruption and political unrest.
Yet ironically, despite the tragic social problems, Bolivia is a country of unimaginable beauty and bountiful natural resources like quinoa, soybeans, zinc and natural gas. And after spending two weeks exploring the southwestern countryside on foot, horseback and jeep, we were completely caught off guard by the diversity and richness of the land and its people.
Along our journey, we saw indigenous Jal’qa villagers working on weavings that would take months to finish a small, single tapestry which depicted their traditional beliefs and lifestyle. Children of weavers acted as apprentices and were eager to show off and sell us their own hand woven bracelets. Crossing through rivers and valleys, we encountered an endless expanse of impressive and changing landscapes: from deserted lost cities perched beneath snowcapped volcanoes to green, black and red lagoons home to thousands of migrating flamingoes; from lush riverbeds filled with feeding llamas to a sea of water on top of the world’s largest salt flat. We felt like we had seen the fiery red canyons of Utah and Arizona, the eerie moonscape formations of the Badlands and the idyllic mountaintops of British Columbia…all in the span of a few days as our jeep hugged the precipices of the Bolivian countryside. We had no idea any of this existed in this country when we first arrived.
And so after a month in Bolivia, we’ve come to see that the quality of life, economic strength, and system of justice within a country is rarely a reflection of its culture, natural resources or the character of its people. Maybe the latter has been inspired because of the difficulties of the former – but it often seems unfair the way these things seem to happen. Regardless of the reasons, Bolivia is a country bursting with cultural depth and natural beauty, but because it has been shackled by a bad economy and corrupt politics, it seems to have fallen off the radar of most travelers.