#nmes

This week, I'm going to be making a simple party dish - recorded by a Syrian writer in the 13th century! Though the dish is described very literally as "gourd dish", it is, in fact, a delightfully savoury and crunchy snack that can be served at parties alongside a simple yet nutty dipping sauce! Thanks again to Charles Perry for the translation of the original Arabic!

In any case, let's now take a look at The World That Was! Follow along with my YouTube video, above! If you like my recipes, consider checking out my Patreon!

Ingredients (serves 4) 1 - 2 courgettes / zucchinis (or 1 bottle gourd / calabash) 1/2 cup walnuts (finely ground) 1/2 cup tahini paste bunch of finely chopped mint 1 tbsp ground coriander 1 tbsp ground cumin lemon juice (to taste) honey (to taste) olive oil / sesame oil (for frying)

Method

1 - Prepare Ingredients To begin making this dish, we need to grind up about a half a cup of walnuts into a fine powder, along with about a tablespoon of cumin seeds, and a tablespoon of coriander seeds. Then, finely mince some fresh mint. All of these ingredients are native to the region in question, i.e. the Near East, and were used throughout history to today!

2 - Prepare Sauce To make the sauce, simply pour about a cup and a half of tahini paste into a bowl, along with your crushed walnuts, ground cumin, and ground coriander to taste! Squeeze the juice from half a lemon, and add it to the sauce, before tossing in your chopped mint, and get to mixing! Taste this when you're done to see how bitter it is. If it's too dry and sour, add a bit of honey to loosen things up a little and sweeten it! Make sure you do this to taste, mind you.

3 - Prepare Gourd When your sauce is done, we need to deal with the gourd! A common issue in antiquity is the ambiguity over the translation of "gourd" as many gourds we see today come from the New World (i.e. the Americas). However the bottle gourds (or calabash) and courgette (or zucchini) were commonly cultivated in the Mediterranean in the medieval period - with evidence for the courgette dating back to the Hellenistic Period! So for this, I'm using a courgette, as it's easier to deal with. Slice this into thin segments, about as thin as your little finger.

4 - Fry Gourd When you've cut the segments, coat them in flour, before placing them into a pan filled with sesame oil over high heat. They should foam a little, depending on the water content of your courgette. Let these fry for a minute or two, or until they're golden brown on one side, before flipping them over and letting them brown on the other side for the same amount of time.

When they're done, place them on some paper towels or a rack to drain off excess oil for a minute. Plate them up with some of your dipping sauce and dig in!

Today, I'll be taking a look at another recipe from 13th century Syria - and the anonymously written Scents and Flavours Arabic cookbook - the creamy chicken Jurjaniyyah!

The name Jurjaniyyah is derived from an Iranian region - Gorgan - which suggests that this was an imported culinary style, rather than a local recipe! Either way, it's a fairly simple and tasty dish!

In any case, lets now take a look at The World That Was! Follow along with my YouTube video, above!

Ingredients (Serves 4)

500g yoghurt 1/2 tablespoon flour dissolved in 1 tablespoon water 1/2 tablespoon honey 2 tablespoons mustard seeds ground cumin 250g chicken thighs (or cut of your choice)

Method

1 - Bake the Chicken

To begin with, we need to cook our chicken. To do this, season a few thighs of chicken with salt, pepper, and freshly-ground cumin. I'm cooking the meat separately to the sauce, which is unusual for meat-based recipes in this time period - but this is seemingly how the dish was intended to be prepared!

In any case, bake or roast your chicken at 200C for about 30 minutes, or until it's cooked through!

When it's cooked, take it out of the oven and let it rest while you make your sauce.

2 - Make the Sauce

Next, we need to make our sauce. Start by placing 500g of Greek yoghurt into a saucepan. Into this, toss a slurry of 1 tbsp flour and 1tbsp water - this will help prevent the sauce curdling as it cooks. Place this over a high heat, and stir it. Contemporary Arabic cookbooks emphasise that you should stir this in a single direction, to reduce the risk of curdling. So stir it until you start to see bubbles forming at the edge.

At this point, turn the heat down to medium, and let it foam up and froth away for about 10 minutes.

3 - Assemble Dish

After 10 minutes, pour in a tablespoon of honey, and a couple of tablespoons of mustard seeds. The original recipe describes the dish as being very pungent, so you can adjust this by increasing or decreasing the amount of seeds you add here!

Place your chicken on a plate, and ladle on some of your sauce. Serve up warm and dig in!

The finished dish is super fragrant, and each mouthful of the sauce has a sharp bite of heat thanks to the mustard seeds. In a sense, it's almost like horseradish! But overall, it's more fragrant than it is hot - and acts very creamy!

Mustard seeds have been cultivated throughout the Near East for millennia, and had a variety of uses besides the culinary field. However the popularity of this seed as an ingredient seems to have increased following the occupation of the region by the Roman Empire - as well as subsequent empires and caliphates.

It's been a whole year since I started this project, and seeing it grow to the size it is today is amazing - I never imagined that it would ever get this popular! So to celebrate, I decided to take a look at some roast duck - based on some Sumerian cuneiform fragments.

In any case, let's now take a look at The World That Was! Follow along with my YouTube video, above!

Ingredients

2kg duck ground cumin ground coriander salt pepper 1 leek, chopped 1 onion, minced 2 cloves garlic 750ml water (or stock) butter

Method

1 - Prepare the Duck To begin making this roast duck, we need to prepare our duck. I'm using a whole bird here, but you could just as easily cook this in pieces - it's up to you! Start by scoring the breast with a knife a few times, to increase the seasoning surface area. The original fragment claims to be dealing with an unnamed bird, so I opted for duck - as wildfowl would have been a staple for Mesopotamia. But chicken or squab would have also been eaten around this time.

In any case, season your bird of choice using some salt, some freshly ground black pepper, some ground cumin, and some ground coriander. Rub this into the meat with your hands if you can handle it. Though I'm going to be dry-roasting this, it's likely that the meat would have been boiled in a stew or soup broth for a while before being roasted in an oven.

2 - Roast the Duck Place your seasoned bird breast-side down on a roasting rack. And then place this into the centre of an oven preheated to 200C / 400F for about two hours (based on a 2kg bird of course), flipping this over about 30 minutes before serving so the breast meat roasts perfectly. When you've flipped the bird, go and prepare your soup.

3 - Prepare the Soup To pair with this, I made a quick and easy leek and herb soup. Start by chopping a leek into segments as thick as your thumb or so. Also chop an onion in half, and mince each half.

Toss some butter into a pot and put it onto a high heat. When the butter melts, toss in your leeks and onions. Return the pot to the heat, and let everything sauté away for a few minutes until the onion turns soft and translucent. At this point, toss in a few shakes of cumin and coriander, along with 750ml of water (or a soup stock of your choice). Into this, add some thyme and mint sprigs.

Let everything cook away for about 20 minutes, or until the leeks are practically falling apart.

Fish out your herb sprigs, and serve up alongside your duck!

Today, I'm making some date-filled cookies described as being votive religious offerings to the Sumerian deity Inanna (also known as Ishtar - to the Akkadians, Babylonians, and Assyrians). It's unknown exactly how these cookies were prepared, being only described as "date-filled parcels of dough" - so I've reconstructed this based on modern Iraqi culinary traditions.

In any case, let's now take a look, at the world that was! Follow along with my YouTube video, above!

Ingredients (for approx. 8 qullupu)

1 cup/150g dates, pitted

honey

water

1 cup white flour

1 tsp salt

2 tsp cardamom powder

2 tsp ground cumin

100g butter, melted

milk

sesame seeds (for decoration)

Method

1 - Make the dough

To begin with, we need to make a dough. Pour a cup of flour into a large mixing bowl, along with a pinch of salt, a few tablespoons of ground cumin, and a few tablespoons of cardamom powder - you can buy this pre-ground, or you can take the seeds out of cardamom pods yourself and grind them up for a stronger taste! In any case, whisk this together so it's all combined.

Then, pour 100g of melted butter into this, along with a large squeeze of honey. Mix all of this together for a while, until it starts to crumb together into large clumps. If it looks dry, pour in a little bit of milk - about a tablespoon at a time - and mix it through. When you can't mix it any more, knead it by hand in the bowl until it's smooth and can come away from the bowl easily. Put this aside while you work on your filling - the fridge works best! (of course, fridges were not used by Bronze Age Sumerians, it just helps the butter stay solidified here)

2 - Make the Filling

Now we need to make our date filling! Do this by pouring a cup's worth of dates into a saucepan, along with some ground cumin, some more ground cardamom, and another generous squeeze of honey. Top off the pot with some water, so the dates are just about covered by it. Place all of this onto a medium heat, and let it cook away for a few minutes. Depending on your dates, they might break down faster or slower than mine - but it should turn into a smooth, jammy mixture, that is honestly good enough to eat on it's own. When it's done, take it off the heat and let it cool down to room temperature.

3 - Prepare the qullupu

Next, take your dough and place it on a sheet of baking paper. Roll this out as thin as you can, about as thick as a finger into the shape of a rectangle. Then, place a few dollops of your date jam across the centre of your dough, and spread it out evenly, leaving some space around the edges of the rectangle.

Roll the dough sheet into a log, and place it seam-side down on the baking sheet. Using a sharp serrated knife, cut the log into segments, each about two to three fingers in width. Place your qullupu so the spiral shape is facing up, and sprinkle some sesame seeds across the tops of them. Toss your spirals into the centre of an oven preheated to 180C / 356 F for about 25-30 minutes - or until they turn golden brown.

Take them out when they're done, let them cool down slightly, and dig in!

This week, I'll be taking a look at another medieval Syrian dish - this time, a simple pistachio sauce chicken bake! It's a sweet and savoury take on a staple of near eastern cuisine at the time - fitting for most people in the medieval period to be able to make!

As with a few other recipes like this, many thanks to Charles Perry's translations from the original Arabic textbooks!

In any case, let's now take a look at The World That Was! Follow along with my YouTube video, above! If you like what I make, please consider supporting me over on Patreon!

Ingredients 250g chicken (any cut of meat) 300g pistachios salt pepper ground cumin ground coriander honey

Method 1 - Season Chicken and Bake To begin with, we need to prepare our chicken. Do this by cutting your cuts of meat with a knife, before seasoning your cuts with equal amounts of salt, pepper, ground cumin, and ground coriander. The original recipe doesn't make note of any spices, but we can infer from elsewhere in the cookbook that cumin and coriander formed the core of medieval Syrian cuisine. So, season this liberally! When this is done, place your chicken onto a lightly greased pan, and then into the centre of an oven preheated to 180C for about 20 minutes. While this is cooking, go prepare your pistachios!

2 - Grind Pistachios, Make Sauce Next, shell 300g worth of pistachios. This will result in a significantly lighter amount of shelled nuts, but this is suitable for about two or three portions of meat.

In any case, when they're shelled, go crush them into a fine powder in a mortar and pestle. Try and go for a very fine sandy texture.

When these have been ground up, toss them into a pot, along with a tablespoon or two of honey, as well as a small splash of water if everything looks too dry. Put all of this over a medium heat, and let it cook away until the honey softens and bubbles. Keep it stirring, so the honey doesn't burn onto the bottom of the pot. This should only take about 15 minutes to cook - if the sauce starts looking a little brown, quickly take it off the heat so it doesn't burn. It's safer to do this slow and low, rather than fast and high.

3 - Assemble Dish When the chicken and the sauce is done, pour a generous amount of the sauce onto a plate, before arranging your chicken on top. Garnish with a few whole pistachios, and a few sprigs of parsley, and dig in!

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