#mochi gate

Mourning in the Ancient Imambargahs of Lahore

Nestled in the midst of the Walled City's network of narrow and bustling streets are the old and distinctive Imambargahs: Nisar haveli, Mubarak haveli and Maatam Siraai.

The vibrant and crowded street of Mochi gate, leading to “Mohallah Shia’an Kashmirian” is known for its imambargahs and Shia community and culture.

The streets are lined with shops displaying alams and shabeehs (pictures) of Shia Imams. Dressed in black, men, women and children can be seen going to these many imambargahs and places for majalis.

The clanging of big sabeel cauldrons is heard at every corner, where flavored milk and sherbets are served round the clock. These sabeels are decorated with flowers and alams to mark the occasion.

From Mubarak haveli's large, wooden and green front gate, a tapered corridor with whitewashed brick walls leads to the inner courtyard.

It is a big courtyard, and has the feel of a timeworn lifestyle about it. The floor is covered with rectangular stone tiles. On the other side, the courtyard opens into a heavily incensed living area. The walls are painted brick red. The top floor has wooden arches while the ground floor has vaulted wooden windows. Green ivies and bushy shrubs dangle on the red wall.

This leads into a huge open area. This place has white marble walls and lofty arches, with a small square clean water pond having lampposts around it. It has black alams lining the wall on one side, and a four feet silver ta’zia with intricate engravings.

Mubarak haveli was constructed by Nawab Ali Raza in 1863. Today, the haveli is looked after by Mr Mansoor Ali Qazalbash, his great grandson.

Mr Qazalbash told us, “Nawab sahab had come from Azerbaijan to Lahore through Afghanistan and settled here. At that time, Mohalla Shia’an Kashmirian was already a predominantly Shia community, but gradually, this haveli attained the status of the main gathering place for all of them.”

In his ancestors’ times, there was an ardent ritual of frequent pilgrimages to Najaf, and some of his forefathers had breathed their last in Najaf.

Even though Mubarak haveli and Nisar haveli lie adjacent to each other and were once owned by a single family, they are now under the ownership of two separate members of the same family.

Maatam Siraai is 500 years old, which makes it the oldest imambargah in Lahore. Shia devotees coming from Kashmir to Najaf used to stay here on their way, thus giving it the name Maatam Siraai.

While in Mohallah Shia’an Kashmirian, I couldn’t help notice the cleanliness in the streets, which is an uncommon thing in the old city. I was told that it was made possible by the combined efforts of the local government and people, who wanted a clean area for Moharram gatherings.

Agha Zulfiqar, an elderly man of the area, told me, “Shias and Sunnis have always lived peacefully in this area”.

When I asked if there had been any change in that culture, he replied, “There has not been any change of the slightest kind. Shias and Sunnis attend majalis together. Sunnis used to bring the ta’zia and still do, as the martyrdom and sacrifice of Hazrat Imam Hussain is revered by all.”

Security has never been an issue here, as all the people live in complete harmony. The streets are divided in the middle by a rope, one side for the men and the other for women mourners. Many imambargahs are managed by women, where women and children are the attendees of the majalis.

All majalis have a culture of cooking special dishes (Niaz) for Moharram. Shias and Sunnis alike make special dishes like saag biryani, daal chawal, koonday and zarda. Free food and fruits are also distributed among the mourners.

The art of making ta’zias and shabeehs, flourishes in the Sooa Bazaar during Muharram. The cost of a ta’zia ranges from as low as a few thousands to as high as a crore. 'Zuljinna', the horse, which symbolizes the horse of Imam Hussain, is taken care of by well-to-do Shia families throughout the year.

As the ninth and tenth of Moharram approaches, these imambargahs receive Shias from all over Lahore and other places. They become the beacon of Shia spirituality; the guardians of Shia tradition, standing as a symbol of the unparalleled sacrifice and historic martyrdom of Hazrat Imam Hussain.