#koliva

Many of us know the story of Persephone, and how eating seeds of a pomegranate (in some stories) led to her having to stay in the underworld with Hades. What not all of you may know is that the pomegranate is considered the “food of the dead” in Ancient Greek traditions because it is believed to have sprung from the blood of Adonis.

What other food and food traditions are associated with the dead?

Many of us in the States may know of the tradition of offering casseroles to the families in mourning. One casserole, particularly famous among Mormons, is known as the “Funeral Potatoes”, and is a recipe involving cubed or shredded potatoes, sour cream, cornflakes, cheese, onions…and honestly is sounding too tasty while I’m writing this, so I may have to add that to the meal plan soon!

The Amish community also has what is known as a “Funeral Pie”, which is a raisin pie full of sugar and spices – and raisins, of course!

Día de Muertos celebrations typically involve offerings of food and drink, but staples of that are known as the sugar skulls and Pan de muerto, or sweetened bread that is shaped to resemble bones. These are left on the altars, or ofrendas, for the deceased – as are amaranth seeds and pumpkin seeds!

In Hindu traditions, pinda, or rice balls, are made for the deceased. It is believed that it will help the recently deceased move on and unite with their ancestors.

There is also a custom in Japan on Obon of carving an eggplant or cucumber into the shape of a cow or horse, respectively, to speed the deceased along when the festival of Obon is over. Obon itself is a festival that commemorates the ancestors.

There is then the middle-eastern treat known as Halva – though in some places consumed normally, in others it is considered a funeral meal, and is often made with tahini, sugar, spices, and nuts. Sometimes, rose water is used in it. Flour may also be used in the process of making it. There are plenty of varieties, though the two main seem to be either nut or flour based.

There is also Koliva, notable in Orthodox Christian traditions. It uses wheat berries, as the symbolism of the Reaper with the scythe was not lost on this tradition – and so wheat became associated with death and everlasting life, both. Preparing the berries by soaking them is also a worshipful process, giving time to the family to pray and think on the deceased for two days, before preparing the rest of the dish, which may include anise, cinnamon, raisins, honey, dates, and other sweets.

Mannish Water is a goat-based soup found in Jamaica used in plenty of occasions from celebrations to funerals. In the use of funerals, it is a part of the Nine Nights, which is the funerary tradition used to help convince the deceased to move on, through dance, song, storytelling, good food, and really, energetic activities. It’s not solely used for funerals, but it is interesting to note how it crosses over into other celebrations like weddings, and ties it has to life and death.

Seudat Havra’ah is a Jewish meal, born in the idea that the bereaved are too distracted by grief to care for themselves, so others need to help prepare. This meal can look like many things, but it has a few commonalities taken through symbolism: circular food like bagels, lentils, and eggs. Bagels, by being circular, show the cycle of life as constant. Lentils are known for being served to Isaac after he lost his father, Abraham. Eggs, of course, are a symbol of life – beyond that, both lentils and eggs are considered to be “without mouths”, and symbolic of the bereaved’s inability to give voice to their pain.

Borsok is another notable food, coming from Kyrgyzstan, and the one I’ll end on, as it has more to do with the preparation instead of the eating of it. Borsok is meant to be prepared every Thursday for a year after the passing of a loved one, as well as the 40th day after their passing, and one year after. The oil itself should be fragrant, ideally so the deceased can take part in “feasting” on it – as well as to better carry the prayers of the living/cooker, upwards.

İxxi moftas zuğa dalga çeçorduy

Skani sevdaluği vagomonçondruy

Gomaşinas guri eşkomiçordu

Cultural Variation