#hulls

first off we have the mechanical server, which was this large, and bulky thing that moved around the hall on a set of rails which was intended to be a point for all of the servers at the party to go, and restock at before going haywire. As an enemy the server was intended to be a nuisance throwing objects, and keeping the players in the center of the room being a threat that would ram into them at speed if they stumbled onto the tracks.

second is the mechanical dance which was lithe, and nimble moving about the crowd on strings as a type of set piece that would encourage other people to dance, but as an enemy it is this machine that scuttled about trying to get at the players to attack or pull them up to the scaffolding that it hangs on.

Find:part shade, shade; moist woods, thickets

Description:Tendrils are absent; the stem twines in a left to right orientation. Stems have either appressed white hair or spreading light brown hair.are alternate, on long stalks and divided into 3 leaflets, each of which is ovate with smooth margins. Each side leaflet has a short stalk; the terminal leaflet, with a much longer stalk, is also the largest leaflet. At the base of the main leaf stalk is a pair of small grooved stipules. Upper leaflet surface is green to dark green, the underside lighter with fine hair.is a cluster rising from the leaf axils, consisting of up to 15 5-parted tubular flowers of the pea type. The cluster elongates as the first flowers start to open.Flowers are of two types,Those that form an open flower on the upper stem are called "chasmogamous" and those that never open at ground level are called "cleistogamous."

Edible parts and uses:These underground fruits are edible and can be eaten raw or boiled to remove the hulls and the seed eaten like a nut.

RC Boat Safety Overview: Hulls, Waterproof ESCs, Motors and Cooling.

Operating RC boats is hugely rewarding but it carries specific risks that hobbyists must respect, including water damage to electronics, battery fires, and personal injury from fast props and high-speed impacts.

Hull shape is one of the first safety choices you make because it dictates stability, handling and what happens in a capsize scenario, and choosing the right shape for conditions reduces the chance of losing a model or getting an electrical short.

Displacement hulls are inherently stable at low speeds and are forgiving for beginners because they sit deep in the water and resist flipping, and catamarans and tunnel hulls give lift and speed but can be tippy and demand careful weight distribution and securely sealed electronics compartments.

Planing hulls and hydroplanes need lower centres of gravity and properly secured battery packs so that sudden jumps or nose-dives do not shift mass and expose wiring to water, and self-righting buoyancy or strategically placed foam can turn a costly recovery into a quick restart.

When it comes to the electronics, invest in a genuinely waterproof ESC rather than relying on sprayproof claims because a true waterproof ESC will be sealed for both splash and brief immersion, and you should also check for robust cable glands and strain relief to prevent water ingress around solder joints.

Do not assume the label waterproof is enough, and perform a controlled immersion test in a bucket before putting a boat on open water while keeping an eye on temperature and response, and for parts lists, wiring diagrams and step-by-step safety checks I keep practical guides at WatDaFeck.

Choosing between outrunner and inrunner motors has safety implications because outrunners typically offer more torque and are often air-cooled by their rotating outer case, which can become ineffective when the motor sits inside a sealed hull and lead to overheating.

Inrunners are usually suited to applications where high RPM and water cooling are desired because they can be fitted with a water jacket or cooling plate that conducts heat directly away from the motor internals, and matching motor type to hull speed and ESC capacity reduces overcurrent events and thermal stress.

Cooling is the final critical layer of safety and performance, and that covers ESCs, motors and batteries since all of these can fail dangerously if allowed to overheat, so plan for adequate airflow, water-cooling loops or heatsinks as the design requires.

Install thermal monitoring where possible, use fuses or an electronic safety cutoff, charge batteries in approved fireproof bags on a non-flammable surface, and perform range and full-throttle tests in shallow controlled areas to confirm cooling systems are working before each outing.

Routine maintenance such as flushing saltwater from drives, checking for corrosion, reapplying grease to shaft bearings and inspecting seals will prevent slow failures that turn into sudden losses, and safe habits like a kill-switch lanyard, clear propeller guards during handling and adherence to local waterway rules keep both people and models safe.

RC Boat Project Ideas: Hulls, Motors, ESCs and Cooling for Hobbyists.

If you enjoy hands‑on builds and getting boats on the water, this roundup collects practical RC boat project ideas with an emphasis on hull shapes, waterproof ESCs, motor choices and cooling solutions for hobbyists.

Start your thinking with hull shape because the hull defines what a boat will do on the water and how it should be powered. A displacement hull is forgiving and perfect for scale models and tugs, while a deep‑V planing hull gives predictable handling at speed and suits a high‑RPM motor and small propeller. Catamarans and tunnel hulls are stable and great for mounting heavier gear or multiple powertrains, and hydroplanes reward careful centre‑of‑gravity placement and precise trim control. Each hull type suggests a project: a slow, detailed scale cruiser for relaxed afternoons, a rugged foiling or catamaran platform for electronics experiments, or a flat‑bottomed runabout for top‑end speed runs.

Waterproof ESCs are a must for anything other than cautious paddling since splash and spray are inevitable when you run on real water. Look for ESCs that are either professionally sealed, conformal‑coated or potting‑filled for true waterproofing, and avoid cheap open PCBs unless you plan to add your own protection. Mounting choices matter just as much as the seal itself because trapped heat will wreck an otherwise robust unit, so consider a removable waterproof tray or a sealed compartment with a thermal path to the hull for long runs. Use quality connectors and a dedicated power switch or waterproof magnetic connector for safety and convenience.

The choice between outrunner and inrunner motors changes the layout and handling of a project and provides distinct opportunities for experimentation. Outrunners produce high torque at low kv and are ideal for direct‑drive props or water jet drives on casual and scale boats where simple installation and lower gearing are desirable. Inrunners spin at higher RPM and often need a gearbox or conventional shaft and prop, which can be fine for racing hulls when paired with water cooling and a matched prop to extract top speed. Try swapping an outrunner into a small tunnel hull for a torquey, low‑gear basher project or build a water‑cooled inrunner racer with a gearbox and adjustable trim for speed and efficiency testing.

Cooling is often the overlooked engineering detail that separates a fun boat from a reliable one, and both motors and ESCs benefit from effective heat removal even if they are labelled waterproof. Inrunners and high‑Kv outrunners will need active water jackets or external pump circuits to keep temperatures under control during sustained runs, while ESCs can be cooled by routing water through a heat exchanger or by conducting heat to a metal bulkhead with thermal pads. Small bilge or impeller pumps can be mounted to draw water through a dedicated cooling loop, and attention to thermal paste and secure mounting will extend component life and performance.

Here are some concrete project ideas to suit different skill levels and interests.

A scale displacement cruiser with sealed ESC and an outrunner for easy maintenance.

A high‑speed planing racer using an inrunner with a water jacket and tuned propeller.

A twin‑motor catamaran for mounting cameras and payloads, exploring trim and balance.

A tunnel‑hulled basher with sacrificial chines and a waterproof brushed or brushless outrunner.

An electronics platform with removable waterproof compartments for testing ESC cooling strategies.

If you want detailed parts lists and step‑by‑step build notes for any of these ideas, visit WatDaFeck for more resources and inspiration.

Choose a first project that matches your workshop tools and patience, and iterate with small changes to prop size, motor timing or hull trim rather than trying to perfect everything at once, because incremental testing on the water is the fastest route to a setup that works reliably.

RC Boat Troubleshooting Guide: Hulls, ESCs, Motors and Cooling.

When an RC boat misbehaves the first step is to observe specific symptoms so you can isolate hull, electrical or propulsion issues, and this guide focuses on the common failure modes around hull shapes, waterproof ESCs, outrunners versus inrunners and cooling so you can diagnose and fix faults efficiently.

Hull shape dictates handling and many apparent motor problems trace back to the hull rather than the powertrain, and you should check whether your model is a displacement, planing, catamaran or tunnel hull as each has different signs of trouble with displacement hulls showing sluggish acceleration if fouled, planing hulls porpoising if trimmed poorly, catamarans showing chine bite on turns, and tunnel hulls cavitating easily when the prop intake is disturbed.

Water ingress and structural issues are common with hulls and can mimic electrical faults, and you should inspect seams, bulkheads and motor mounts for signs of delamination or waterlogging since soft or squashed foam, loose caulking or a failed hatch seal will add drag and upset trim which may be mistaken for underpowered propulsion.

Waterproof ESCs reduce risk but are not infallible, and a typical troubleshooting routine for an ESC should include a visual inspection for corroded connectors, a bench test with a known-good battery and motor, checking for intermittent throttle signals and looking for burned components or a strong smell of electronics which indicates internal failure, and if you want parts or walk-throughs for sealing and testing your ESC I cover many waterproof options on WatDaFeck.

Choosing between outrunners and inrunners matters for cooling and gearing and you should remember that outrunners offer more torque at lower RPM and are often simpler to install in surface boats, while inrunners spin faster and usually require a gearbox or direct drive with a water jacket, and when troubleshooting motor problems swap the motor between boats where possible to determine whether the fault follows the motor or stays with the hull and check bearings, shaft alignment and prop balance for vibration or magnet rub.

Cooling failures are a leading cause of ESC and motor shutdowns and you should check the entire cooling chain by verifying that the water pickup is clear and positioned correctly, that hoses are not kinked and that any external heat sinks or fans are unobstructed, and when problems persist use an infrared thermometer or inline temperature sensor to compare input and output water temperature while running under load so you can spot blocked jackets, failing impellers or recirculation of warmed water from shallow ponds.

For a quick troubleshooting checklist, start with the simple checks such as battery voltage and connectors, then confirm that the hull is dry and true, run bench tests on ESC and motor, inspect cooling plumbing and impeller function, replace suspect connectors and apply dielectric grease to improve reliability, and finally perform a controlled sea trial while monitoring temperature and behaviour so you can verify that the repair has cured the original symptom.