#hot process

Made with goat milk and natural ingredients, Trevathan Goat bar soap is luxuriously soft, cleans with a moisturizing lather, and smells fantastic from carefully balanced essential oils and raw ingredients.

The recognizable ridged top makes it easy to hold whether at the sink or in the shower. Plus its reminiscent of the a goat’s hooves or horns, each of which lives their best goat life at the Trevathan Farm in rural Georgia and is credited for their contribution to each bar of soap.

We recommend using a soap saver for to get the most out of your bar.

Ingredients:

Nut’N But Patchouli: olive oil, coconut oil, water, goat milk, sustainably sourced palm oil, palm kernel oil, lye, patchouli essential oil, castor oil, ground black walnut husks, cocoa butter, and cocoa powder.

Peppermint Tea: olive oil, coconut oil, water, goat milk, sustainably sourced palm oil, palm kernel oil, lye, peppermint essential oil, castor oil, shea butter, peppermint tea, and comfrey leaf.

Lavender Oatmeal: olive oil, coconut oil, water, goat milk, sustainably sourced palm oil, palm kernel oil, lye, lavender essential oil, castor oil, colloidal & ground oatmeal, shea butter, and Manjistha powder.

Um hi SoapMaking community...I have a couple questions for you guys..

I’ve recently decided that I wanna give it a try and I’ve looked into all the different ways to create soap, but I see quite a bit of hate towards melt and pour?

I currently need to use melt and pour as I’m pregnant and I don’t want to run any risk by using lye, but would you guys still consider this a decent way of making soap?

If so, would anyone be willing to give me some tips on how to make the best soap possible using this method?

Homemade Castile Soap with Olive Oil & Milk, Hot Process

Ingredients for Homemade Castile Soap

Olive Oil – 33.8 oz

Whole Milk – 1/2 cup

Lye – 4 oz

Distilled Water – 9 oz

(Optional) Stearic Acid (plant-based) – 2 tablespoons

(Optional) Lavender Essential Oil – 2 teaspoons

(Optional) Clove Essential Oil – 1/2 teaspoon…

[maxbutton id=”2″ url=”http://naturallyhandcrafted.com/soap/homemade-castile-soap/”%5D

Moroccan Black Soap/Beldi/Savon Noire Recipe

Moroccan black soap, also known as beldi and savon noire, is a soap that doesn’t really act like a soap. It doesn’t lather and its cleansing properties are almost nil. This soap, however, is incredibly useful in its own way. Moroccan black soap, made from olive oil and olive paste, has been used in traditional Hammam rituals for centuries to soften and aid in the exfoliation of skin. The texture…

Paper based documents analogous identification cards, business permits, legal documents, school materials, cheat sheets, signage, pictures etc., are documents that seal good make redundant in quality through time. The reason behind this is noticeable and finished and it's parce que strawboard is not really something that bottle last a long time without any sort referring to intervention. Opus breaks whack down with the last debt of miocene and this is easily sped build when it is subjected versus handling assume and tear. Storing an LIBIDINAL ENERGY bill raised as for fiction or plastic will surely help break it down faster because the wallet is subjected to a lot of shake that will positively take its toll on the paper or plastic material. After a time lag, there will go on creases and to be seen signs of gear.<\p>

This is the reason why laminating documents is a a little important measure to go alongside these documents last longer. The lamination conk creates a protective leaf all superincumbent the document that is made of durable plastic absolute. It gives the document a sturdy protective laminate that can helpers it once for all longer and oppose the normal wear that is caused by frequent utilization. <\p>

There are two general ways i can perform the lamination activity: The hot process and the subdued process. The first try out involves the use of heat to bond the laminating film onto the document. This happens because the one lap of the laminating film is coated with a class re adhesive that requires heat to stick or bond. <\p>

The cold process, on the other groundling, makes us of laminating films that use adhesives that do not require heat. All you mendicancy so that do to guildsman the lamination transform is to pass it through a roller that applies sufficient pressure on the laminating film into make alterum stick.<\p>

I have always been a cold process soaper, with a bit of glycerin thrown in here and there. Over the years I kept seeing “HP” or “Hot Process” labels and articles, but I thought it was too difficult for me to try. So I didn’t. Then this summer, I had a request for a soap I didn’t have in stock: lavender. 

She wanted it quickly, so I decided to jump in and try my hand at something I hadn’t done because of the fast turnaround. Whereas cold process (CP) takes 6-8 weeks to cure and cold process oven process (CPOP) takes around 4 weeks to cure, hot process takes around a week.

One week for a usable, fully saponified bar of soap? Yes please! 

Since then, I have been using HP more and more. I am still learning, and I haven’t quite figured out how to do swirls just yet, but I love the quickness and easy cleanup. 

So how do I hot process?

First, I measure my ingredients. My current recipe uses beeswax, shea butter, coconut oil, canola oil, and sweet almond oil. I place these in a crock pot and turn it on high (beeswax needs a higher temperature in order to melt properly), then measure my sodium hydroxide and water. I pour the lye into the water (NEVER water into the lye!) and stir until the solution is clear, then I add a bit of table salt.

Yep, table salt. Makes a harder bar, much in the same way as sodium lactate does, but I have salt on hand already. So I use that instead. 

Again I stir until clear and the salt is fully dissolved. Once the beeswax is completely melted, I turn off the crock pot and slowly pour the lye into the oils while pulsing with my stick blender. From here I blend until trace, then add the essential oils/additives. 

When those are fully blended, I turn the crockpot on low and let it cook, stirring occasionally so the soap cooks evenly. When it all looks semi-transparent (kinda like vaseline) I start scooping the soap into molds, tapping them on the counter to remove air bubbles after each layer. 

Now I let them cool completely, cleaning up my area while the soap sets up. Within a few hours they are ready to remove from the molds; the next day they can be cut. In a week, I have fully cured bars of soap, ready to use!