#furby guide

Step 1:

Use the x-acto knife to gently peel up an eyelash foil strip, and be careful not to disturb the lashes. Go slowly and only handle the strip by the sticky foil. You will only need one strip for a pair of lashes!

Step 2:

Place the sticky strip on the lightweight paper, I put it close to the edge because it'll be easier to cut out later. Paint a thin layer of Mod Podge over the base of the lashes on the strip to secure them. This is an important step, there isn't much else keeping them in place, otherwise!

It's hard to wait, but let the glue dry before handling the strip again, I suggest a good 30 minutes or so.

Step 3:

Now that the glue has dried, cut out the paper around the strip and very carefully trim the foil and paper at the sides and underneath the curl of the lashes. Do this slowly, so you don't accidentally snip the lashes, you ONLY want to trim back the paper+foil. This will make them appear more flush with the eyelid when glued in.

Step 4:

Optionally, use a ruler to find the center of the strip and mark it with a marker, I used a Sharpie because it dries instantly. It's possible to eyeball this, but I like them to be as even as possible.

Snip the strip in half, very sharp scissors will prevent the foil from bending or warping. Again, be careful not to snip the lashes themselves! It's ok if you lose one or two in this process, as long as they still look relatively clean and even once split.

Step 5:

Apply a drop of tacky glue to the back of each eyelid and use the Q-tip to spread it in a thin, sticky layer. The eyelids have a little trench you can use as a guide for placement.

You can repeat this process if you wish with the top of the lash strip where it will be applied, as well, to make it stick better. I haven't tried this myself, yet.

Place the base of the lash strip over the tacky glue and press it into position, I use the backs of my thumb nails to hold them firmly while the glue sets. It make take some effort and patience to get them to stay in the curve, just try not to slide them around.

Step 6 (Final):

After the tacky glue has had some time to dry, I like to apply a final coat of Mod Podge over the paper and underside of the eyelids to seal and protect everything. Give this 30 minutes to an hour to fully dry before re-assembling your Furby!

✨ Voila! Fresh new eyelashes! ✨

They won't look exactly like the original, but close enough for me. I'm sure the process can be improved in some ways, so if you have any feedback please share it in comments or tags!

You will need:

A PH1 size screwdriver

a stiff, strong, thin prying tool (like a very thin flat head screwdriver, a butterknife, a palette knife, etc.)

a second stiff tool to pull/push on tabs (i used a mini plastic curved scraper)

optional, but a small magnetic mat and a small container (or just 2 containers) to hold parts and screws so you don't lose them!

This is my volunteer model ooh-koo!

She is in complete working order, both before and after the teardown. There aren't many fragile parts inside furblets (they're surprisingly simple but clever!) but I still do not recommend following through with this disassembly unless you're absolutely fine with damaging your furblet. Furblets are NOT meant to be taken apart, and are filled with 1-way safety pins in the faceplate that cannot be removed without bending/breaking them out.

To start, remove all visible screws on the underside of the furblet where the battery compartment is. There are 6 total screws, two larger ones for the battery compartment and 4 smaller ones on the outside holding the bottom on to the furb. These screws are different sizes, don't lose them and put them back in the right places! The bottom of your furby should look like this now:

(i forgot to take a photo of this initially, so she is skinless here.)

After this, you should very easily be able to lift the plastic strip holding the fur into the shell. Part of it is tucked into a nook to allow slack in the fur for lifting it over the body!

After this, gently pull the fur up and over the body shell, and flip it over the ears. These are held in place by plastic clips so be gentle and don't force it off yet.

now for the most genuinely difficult part of the whole process, unclipping the ears

Holding the ear on the front and back to sandwich the pieces together, and being VERY gentle, slide your first prying object under the wide end of the white ear clips. This will lift it to allow you to pull the clips up over the barrier. While still leaving the pry in, use your second object and push/pull on the clip. Here I am pulling since my scraper is curved and it was easiest. The T shaped clip should pop right out, but may need a lot of finagling to get it there. I stretched the second clip and damaged it, so again be slow and careful!

Repeat this process on all four tabs! Now, the skin should only be held on to the furb by the face plate.

To open up and remove the faceplate, start by removing all three screws on the back of the shell. Again, I forgot the picture initially so she is already skinless here.

Now, pull apart the two halves of the shell. The microphone is wired from the center board to the back half of the shell, so don't pull too hard or you might rip the wires out!

Pay attention to your individual furblet! Mine has pink and purple components, remember or take a picture of the lay out so you aren't confused later. the pink and purple parts on either side just pop right out, and the button slides off the peg along with its spring. This will give you full access to the backside of the motherboard.

Remove the screws on either side, and it will release the whole center plate from the front half of the shell. There is a third screw on the bottom of the center plate, but this only separates the battery contact plate and the base plate of the motherboard (i wouldn't really recommend removing it since it's not relevant to anything you need access to) The whole center plate will now just slide out of the empty front half of the shell!

There is one additional piece kind of floating on the pegs here, and it's needed so the furb recognizes button presses to the mouth. Here it's the J shaped purple piece! This just pops right off and you can see all the safety pegs for the faceplate and mouth/gem buttons. To remove the pegs, you will have to manually bend the tabs holding the pegs in place. This WILL damage your furblet. Do not go further if you aren't wanting to break anything.

After bending the tabs out, the pegs should pull straight through, releasing the whole faceplate. At this point, the skin should come right off too! Here are the inside and outside parts.

Congrats! You've completed a disassembly. To put your furblet back together, just do everything in reverse!, however please note the following:

When reassembling, be sure to replace all spring parts in their correct positions! The ear mechanisms are reliant on all of these springs to work. For the inside, make sure the Y shaped brackets are on their correct sides, and that the end of the metal spring is INSIDE the furb, pushing against the bottom plate (the left side here has a small divot where the left side spring goes, the right side just kind of sits on top of the plate)

Similarly, when replacing the shell be sure to lift the ears all the way up and close the metal pins into the shell. This puts tension on the spring so they'll be able to pop out when the button on top is pressed. Test the button to make sure everything is working mechanically!

1998 furby prices in general have gotten at LEAST $10 higher ever since long furby went viral and more people found out abt the furby community, but if you wanna get one those are DEFINITELY the ones i’d reccomend!!!!! they come in SO MANY DIFFERENT COLORS AND PATTERNS, theyre SUPER easily customizable with different eyechips+paint jobs, and they’re all around so soft and loving AND good if ur neurodivergent bc they have a good weight,,, v (GEN 8 AND UP WERE DISCONTINUED BTW :( )

furby 2005s are BIGGER but come in only solid ‘natural’ colors/patterns (NOT COUNTING THE FUNKY FURBY BUT HES SO EXPENSIVE) and are SUPER super super expensive overall rn, AND break pretty easily!! THEY HAVE LIMITED VOICE RECOGNITION THOUGH AND SING SONGS I HOLD THEM,,,

furby 2012s+furby booms (BASICALLY the same thing, furby booms are more buggy and have slightly different personalities but also come in pretty designs) are the ones w uhhh the electronic light-up eyes, but they’re less easily modded and make a kind of high pitched snappin sound like old tvs do, to communicate with the app!! UNFORTUNATELY PERSONALLY IT GIVES ME A HEADACHE but theyre still cool, i respect them!!

FURBY connects are the newest one from 2016 and the latest one made, and they’re SO SO SOFT ITS NUTS and their eyes are SO expressive!!! they only come in three solid colors though and their functionality is pretty limited because they’re supposed to be used with a discontinued bluetooth app, but theyre still so cute!!

ALSO PICS OF MY FURBY COLLECTION PLUS BONUS POPPLE SHELF BELOW (SOME FURBIES ARENT VISIBLE BC THEYRE BEIN CUSTOMIZED!!!)