Enguri Dam.

Solution VX 200

Jvari, Georgia

Enguri Dam.

Solution VX 200

Jvari, Georgia

The Journey to Abkhazia - Part 1:

Above is the Inguri (or Enguri) bridge that separates Georgia and Abkhazia. 

There are two ways to get into the world's greenest unrecognized republic*. You could fly, drive or take a boat (from Turkey) to Sochi, and cross the border from the Russian side, like the majority of whoever goes to Abkhazia. But would that be much fun? Probably not. You could also travel to Zugdidi in northern Georgia, take a cab or marshutka from Zugdidi to the border (which the Georgians don't call that, of course), show your papers to the chill Georgians sitting in their butka, and then walk for a kilometer or two until you see the Russian-controlled Abkhaz border control (which is the opposite of chill). You will need:

previously obtained entry paper from the Abkhazia Ministry of Foreign Affairs (not a visa. you will have to go get the visa once you are already in Abkhazia) an easy to get document that will be corresponded via a gmail address.**

to know what you will tell various Georgians when they ask you "what's in Abkhazia?" or, the longer version, "what could you see in Abkhazia that you can't in Georgia?" this is a fair point, but not too fair. Karena told me that someone told her you should say "I have seen most of Georgia, so I want to see this part of it as well." Say it with a smile though because Georgians are not to be bullshitted. 

to know a few Russian words, just in case. this will be most helpful later when you are trying to eat local food and not some bland pizza.

a camera that is not giant and can be hidden in your pocket. if you are the type that doesn't need to capture everything and is just happy savoring the moment, good for you I guess. 

sunscreen. always sunscreen. 

*Unconfirmed.