#crowd-funded

Today marks forty years since Judy Chicago’s epic artwork The Dinner Party debuted at @sfmoma. It attracted a record-breaking 100,000 visitors, marking for many the first time they learned of women’s contributions to Western civilization. A network of support led The Dinner Party to travel, crowd-funded, to fourteen cities on three continents. The tour included a stop at Brooklyn Museum from 1980-81, and today it is on display at the heart of our Elizabeth A. Sackler Center for Feminist Art.⁣ 

Learn more about this influential artwork by joining curator Carmen Hermo's free tour today at 2 pm. 

It’s a name that works on a few different levels, you see.  First up, the Zahnd & Kormann ZK No. 2 is, of course, the second model in the brand’s lineup.  On top of that, there are actually two different movements available, two different levels of finish on said movements, and two different materials available for the case and bracelet.  That is a LOT of twos!

First things first, however.  The Zahnd & Kormann ZK No. 2 is a dive watch, first and foremost, in terms of both looks and specs.  For me, that is immediately evident in the styling of the watch.  Then you notice the helium escape valve (which, as we’ve said before, is basically useless for anyone except saturation divers), and the fact that the spec sheet carries a 600m WR rating.  Again, another mostly meaningless spec for us desk divers.  What I like about it, however, is the implication in the engineering needed to ensure that 600m rating. Yes, I’ll never stress a watch to that point, but there’s a robustness there that will protect the watch for whatever I’m going to throw at it.

Then again, I’ve already got a 500m diver in my watch box, so why would I take notice of the Zahnd & Kormann ZK No. 2?  Fittingly enough, for two reasons.  First up, they have an option that gives you a GMT complication, which makes the watch a lot more versatile (and, well, I just plain like the complication).  Second? They’ve mixed up the design a bit, and have gone with flinger-style hands on the watch. This makes the watch different enough that it piques my interest, and really catches the eye, particularly for those who are aware of what sorts of hands generally go with particular designs.

Then, as I got into the variations involved with the Zahnd & Kormann ZK No. 2, I became even more intrigued.  For one, you’ve got lot of color options.  Sure, blue is slam dunk for me, but something about the way the colors pop off of the black PVD version is really catching my eye.  Then, let’s talk materials.  You’ve got sapphire on the crystal, and ceramic on the bezel, all good things.  Case and bracelet?  Those are stainless steel.  Oh, you want lighter weight?  Well, today is your lucky day, as you can opt for titanium instead.

So, let’s see – you’ve got choices in materials, you’ve got choices in color ways.  Oh, and yeah, with the Zahnd & Kormann ZK No. 2, you’ve got choices with your movements.  Not just between a Selitta SW200 (3-hander) and SW300 (GMT), but in the level of finishing.  You can opt for Elabore grade (+/- 6 sec/day), or you can go for COSC-grade (+/- 3 sec/day).  So, yes, you may not have designed the watch yourself, but you certainly can have a lot of control over the price and components.

Speaking of pricing, this is a Kickstarter campaign (just launched today), so you do have some deals in the offering here.  Early bird pricing starts at 459 CHF (which is roughly $459 USD, just take out the 7.5% VAT) for the stainless steel three-hander, and tops out at 799 CHF for the titanium GMT with the Elabore movement.  Unfortunately, we weren’t able to get time with a prototype before the project went live, but we are working with the brand to get a production model in once they’ve got some inventory.  For now, as I say, color me intrigued.  project page from timeisyours.ch

Watch Overview

Brand & Model: Zahnd & Kormann ZK No. 2

Price: 459 CHF and up

Who we think it might be for: You want a Swiss dive watch, but also have a penchant for aviator watches

Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen?  A tough diver in titanium and a GMT complication? What’s not to like?

If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: I might consider shrinking the logo, or making it a bit less “in your face”.  Something like that is going to be a deal breaker for some buyers.

What spoke to me the most about this watch: I really dig how they’ve taken a dive watch, and mixed in aviator elements with the GMT complication and flieger handset

Tech Specs from Zahnd & Kormann

Case:  44mm, stainless steel (plain or PVD) or titanium (plain or PVD); 14.9mm thick; 51mm lug-to-lug

Crystal:  sapphire, AR coated

Caseback:  exhibition, sapphire crystal

Bezel:  120 click uni-directional; ceramic insert

Crown:  screw down

WR:  600m; helium escape valve

Lume:  BGW9 Superluminova

Movement

Selitta SW 200-1 (three-hander), Elabore or COSC

Selitte SW 300-1 (GMT), Elabore or COSC

The short answer is, yes, the MP Magic Socks work just as advertised.  I found them to be decently padded (but not overly so), comfortable, and they did stay odor free.  How did I test this?  Well, that was easy enough – I just wore them for a week straight (five days in a row) to the gym, and at the end of that time, put them up to the ol’ sniffer.

So, at under $10 a pair, these are reasonable workout companions, particularly if you’re the sort to forget to clean out your gym bag.  I will note that the pair I tested seemed to have an abnormally tall cut to them – taller than 1/4 socks, but shorter than calf-height.  So, for me, they’re taller than I would prefer for the gym, but I do see a new design on their page that has a shorter cut to them that might be the ticket.

Time will tell how these hold up (and yes, they will be closely scrutinized against my regular Darn Tough 1/4 socks) over time.  Though, at $48 for a 6-pack of socks, you can probably sink that cost to test it out.  You can see those, and their other designs, directly at their website.  mpmagicsocks.com

Right from the get-go, you can tell that the Valimor Caliburnus is different from what you may have seen before – this is no “me too” minimalistic piece that is destined for the landfill.  What struck me first was the bezel on the watch.  A closer look reveals that it has a scaly texture to it, engraved in.  Per the PR materials, this is to call to mind dragon scale, but it could also remind one of, say, the overlapping leaves of scale mail. Add in the fact that the hands are actual swords (the overall theme of the watch is pulling from Arthurian legend), and you have, for me, a watch that is basically D&D in horology (and no, no steampunk here).

For me, that’s a good thing. I grew up playing D&D with a close set of friends, and have fond memories of those days.  So, right off the bat, the Valimor Caliburnus is in my good graces.  Then we get to the dial.  Oh, those dials.  There are three options here of various semi-precious stones, but my favorite has to be the lapis lazuli.  Ever since I discovered that lapis lazuli existed many years ago, I have been enamored.  There’s just a depth and variety to the blue that is intriguing to me.  And while I’ve not yet picked up a watch with a lapis lazuli dial, I did managed to get some cufflinks on a trip back from Argentina a while ago, so I know what I would be pairing with this watch.

Safe to say, design-wise, there is a lot going on with the Valimor Caliburnus that I am a fan of.  Hands and indices are filled with SuperLuminova (always appreciated), and they’ve managed to turn a cow leather strap into something that looks like a hornback crocodile strap (much nicer than your normal croc-embossed stuff), which keeps the reptilian feel to things.  The buckle on the strap also has some interesting engraving going on to keep the theme going.

Tucked into the Valimor Caliburnus is a well-known commodity, the Miyota 821A automatic movement.  As always, I like seeing known movement brands showing up in new watch startups, as that gives one a bit more confidence that things can be maintained, and parts will be available for said maintenance.  The presence of the Miyota also helps to keep pricing down.  Speaking of, early bird pricing for the Valimor Caliburnus starts at just $239, which represents about a 50% discount off the future retail price.

As I mentioned at the outset, the campaign for the Valimor Caliburnus is currently underway, with funding sitting at about 65% as of the time of this writing.  The campaign runs through July 31st, and delivery (provided the funding goals are hit) is anticipated for October.  I have seen some other watches be offered in limited runs with stone dials of these nature at this price, but none have had quite this level of detail and adherence to a theme.  Should funding levels be met, and production commence, we’re in talks with the brand to get one in for a hands-on review.  Give us a shout out in the comments (or over in Slack) if you jump in to help pull the sword from the stone.  valimor.com

Watch Overview

Brand & Model: Valimor Caliburnus

Price: early bird pricing starts at $239

Who we think it might be for: You like semi-precious stone and want to sport one in an affordable watch

Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen? I have to admit it is very, very tempting!

If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Getting that WR bumped up to 100m would be appreciated

What spoke to me the most about this watch: The stone dials and that interesting-looking dragon scale bezel

Tech Specs from Valimor

Name: CALIBURNUS

Reference: VA001A

Certification: EUIPO Design Patent #004742294-0001

Case: Ø42 mm – Aged 316L Stainless Steel

Coating: PVD

Dial: Natural Black Galaxy Granite

Glass: Sapphire Coated Hardness Mineral Crystal

Hands Luminous: Swiss Super-LumiNova BGW9

Crown Crystal: Swarovski

Water Resistant: 5 ATM (50 m)

Strap: Genuine Leather

Caliber: Japan-Made Miyota 821A Automatic

Functions: Hours, Minutes, Seconds and Date

Jewels: 21

Thickness: 12.65mm

Frequency: 21,600 vph

Power-reserve: 42 hours

KALEB MCKANE @kalebmckanerock — EP Universe in Reverse

KALEB MCKANE’S spellbinding musical sojourns are explored in detail on his fresh 3-track EP (out July 27th 2018) titled “Universe in Reverse.” The young multi-instrumentalist / singer creates a fusion of progressive & glamorous rock that returns us to a place where Prince and Mick Ronson made their electric dreams.  It’s a place you’ll be pleased to re-visit and won’t want to leave…

On this…

If you don’t recall – or decided to not read the prior review – the forged carbon case is the draw here.  Most brands that have these are super pricey, but Tempest has kept the pricing at under a grand.  The material gives things a very unique look, along with lightening the overall watch (though there is still a steel liner in there).

It’s also a competent dive watch – and every day watch – with great legibility (the sizing on the handset and indices is spot-on).  In short, if you’re a fan of divers and tool watches, or even just a fan of watches with unique materials, the Tempest Carbon 2 is worth a look, big time.  It just launched on Kickstarter (project page), with super early bird pricing starting at $835.  Tempest makes great stuff, and the Carbon 2 is no exception.  The best thing about this project coming back is that shipping will be quick, with delivery anticipated for July.  Also great?  The project is fully funded already, with 28 days left to go.  Check it out – you won’t be disappointed.  tempestwatches.com

  Tech Specs from Tempest Watches

Case – 100% forged carbon, with inner stainless steel core

Diamter: 42.mm

Lug-to-lug: 50mm

Thickness: 17.75mm (including crystal)

Lug width: 22mm

Crown – PVD Solid Stainless Steel screw down crown with engraved logo , 7mm wide x 4mm height

Case Back – PVD Solid Stainless Steel with engraving and individual serial number

Crystal – Scratch Resistant Super Dome Sapphire Crystal w/ Inner Anti-Reflection Coating (double domed for reduced distortion)

Movement – Automatic Miyota Cal. 9015, 28,800bph, 24 Jewels, 42 Power Reserve, Hacking Second, Manual winding function, Balanced Staff Shock Absorber

Dial – Matt Black, Internal Bi-rotational Bezel, Individually applied markers with BGW9 Swiss-LumiNova

Lume – BGW9 Swiss-LumiNova on hands and dial markers

Strap – High Quality Water-Resistant Nylon strap with leather liner, 22mm tapering to 20mm, Solid stainless steel buckle with PVD Finish

Water Resistance – 200m/660ft

Warranty – 24 months

In fact, when we had the initial PR come in from Axiom Watches, it sparked some discussion amongst the team.  Of course, watches that hearken back to military watches of the past, and those that look like pocket watches with lugs brazed on, are nothing new.  What strikes me with these two watch designs (more on that in a moment) is the bulbous look that the 42mm case has taken on.  Rather than trying to minimize the presence of the case, Axiom instead has brought those curves up and forward, making it a formidable presence.

As I mentioned, Axiom is bringing two watches to the table, both with a lot of similarities.  You can see the full spec rundown at the bottom of this article, but the watches share the same case and strap design.  The Mad Minute goes for Breguet-style pomme hands, and is powered by a Miyota 9100 movement.  While it’s a nice-looking watch in it’s own right, what really got us paying attention here at WWR is the LemonBurst style.

The Axiom Watches LemonBurst is powered by a Miyota 8218, and gives you the standard two-hander and small seconds, plus date.  The date is a break from the vintage looks, but I’ll take the functionality.  Where things really stand out, though, is the dial.  Under that domed sapphire crystal, the white dial is topped with bright yellow hands and numerals (except for the 12, which is in red).  Where this design really shines, you see, is the fact that all that yellow paint is luminescent.  This is something we do not commonly see on vintage-inspired military watches, and am a fan – particularly as that yellow looks quite stunning, at least in the photos we’ve seen.

As of the time of this writing, the Axiom Watches project stands at 28% funded, with things closing out on August 16, 2017.  If you want to jump in, you can get a Axiom Watches Mad Minute for $572, or the Axiom Watches LemonBurst for $400.  They also have some tiers that add about $60 to the price of the watch, and then include a leather watch roll.  These look nice, it’s surprising these aren’t offered on their own as a tier.  Oh, and do note the odd lug sizes with the watch – make sure you’re picking the color strap that you want, as the 14mm lugs aren’t going to be common ones in the aftermarket (UPDATE:  If the project is fully funded, Axiom will be giving backers a bonus strap).  Regardless, it’s an interesting look for the watches. And, should funding hit it’s goal, we will of course work to get in a sample of that LemonBurst to give you some more complete thoughts.  project page 

Watch Overview

Brand & Models: Axiom Watches LemonBurst and Mad Minute

Price: $400 and up

Who we think it might be for: You like your vintage style full of bold curves

Would I buy one for myself based on what I’ve seen? Good question – ultimately, it’s probably a larger case than I’d prefer to wear regularly

If I could make one design suggestion, it would be: Offer up the straps as add-ons to the pledges

What spoke to me the most about this watch: It’s got to be that case design

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Tech Specs from Axiom

Style: LemonBurst

DIAMETER: 42mm

MATERIAL: 316L Stainless Steel

FINISH: High polish, sandblasted finish, black or bronze ion plating

CRYSTAL: Domed sapphire crystal

WATER RESISTANCE: Water-resistant to 200 meters

MOVEMENT: Miyota 8218, Automatic, 21,600 vph, 21 jewels

FUNCTIONS: Hours and minutes in the center. Subsidiary seconds dial at 6 o’clock. Date at 3 o’clock

POWER RESERVE: Circa 42 hours

STRAP: Of two parts, of 26mm and 14mm

STRAP MATERIAL: High quality black or brown calf leather, engraved on the back

BUCKLE: Stainless steel pin buckle

DIAL: White dial

HANDS: Luminous skeleton hands

Earlybird pricing starts at $400

Style: MAD MINUTE

DIAMETER: 42mm

MATERIAL: 316L Stainless Steel

FINISH: High polish, sandlasted, black or bronze ion plating

CRYSTAL: Domed sapphire crystal

WATER RESISTANCE: Water-resistant to 200 meters

MOVEMENT: Miyota 9100, Automatic, 28,800 vph, 26 jewels

FUNCTIONS: Hours, minutes and seconds in the center. Date at 4 o’clock. Subsidiary “military time” 24 hour dial at 6 o’clock

POWER RESERVE: Circa 40 hours

STRAP: Of two parts, of 26mm and 14mm

STRAP MATERIAL: High quality black or brown calf leather, engraved on the back

BUCKLE: Stainless steel pin buckle

DIAL: White dial

HANDS: Blued distinct vintage style

Earlybird pricing starts at $572