#couturefall2014

Paris Fall 2014 Couture: Zuhair Murad

Once again, I find the last designer on my list to do is Zuhair Murad. Last, but very definitely not least. Murad’s inspiration came from the new architectural renaissance taking place in his hometown of Beirut, with modernist angles, futuristic lines and a sharp edges.

Not that the dresses themselves had that. Like most of Murad’s work, the dresses were curvy and form-fitting, with various…

Paris Fall 2014 Couture: Stéphane Rolland

Stéphane Rolland did something very different for his Fall 2014 collection presentation. He presented via a 7-minute film, entitled “L’Échappée,” It followed Spanish model Nieves Alvarez and actor-director Jalil Lespert on a trip through Paris, showing off thew clothes as it went.

In the showroom itself the clothes were out on mannequins for inspection. Photographs of the clothes on models were…

Paris Fall 2014 Couture: Vionnet

Vionnet has always been an intellectually interesting line. But is it glamorous? There’s a pressure among the couture crowd to bring the glamour, as sales of these gowns are usually aimed at the red carpet/high-end party budget.

Up until now, designer Hussein Chalayan has mostly resisted that pressure. This collection seemed to be his way of doing the curiosity gown for the red carpet. The…

Paris Fall 2014 Couture: Oscar Carvallo

Oscar Carvallo had grand notions of the meaning behind his couture collection. “Those fighting for freedom” we were told, was the inspiration for these Fall looks. Honestly, I would never have guessed that if he hadn’t told us.

There was certainly an industrialist feel to the collection, with the plastic vinyl appliques on heavy see thru netting of the opening looks. But nothing here said…

Paris Fall 2014 Couture: Fred Sathal

It’s been eight years since Fred Sathal has produced anything for the catwalks of Paris. The fact that her comeback show started nearly an hour late was merely extra anticipation.

Was this comeback collection worth the extra wait? The audience seemed to think so, as every outfit came out to a burst of applause and the finale was greeting wildly.

(more…)

Paris Fall 2014 Couture: Loris Azarro

The reboot of the Loris Azarro brand after three decades dormant continued this couture season. Designers Alvaro Castejon and Arnaud Maillard aimed to bring the look of Azarro into the 21st century without losing any of the traditional house codes.

Luckily those house codes are slithery, sexy and shimmery. All things that a red carpet goer in this century is looking for just as much as they were…

Paris Fall 2014 Couture: Julien Fournie

Julien Fournie arrived on the scene as a playful designer, full of whimsy, if not the most high fashion of notions. Since being invited to the couture circuit, he’s been slowly working his way to something more refined and respectable.

That respectability came through in the first outfit. The Little Black Dress, though eye-catching, is also very safe. But it will sell to high-end clients.

(more…

Paris Fall 2014 Couture: Ralph and Russo

This is only Ralph&Russo‘s second time in Paris for Couture, and already they’ve made a huge splash. Couple that with the news that British ­mobile phone entrepreneur and philanthropist John Caudwell has sunk serious cash into their brand (as a passive investor) and it looks like the UK based, Australian born designers are looking to stay on the Couture calendar for the long haul.

Considering…