#cosplaytutorial

Here's an overview of the applique process for Jolyne. The main techniques I learned from a spandex applique tutorial by Spandex Simplified which you can find in my Linktree. I started by planning and drawing all of the applique designs on my sewing patterns, experimenting with a couple different scales of the grid and spiderweb design until I found something that looked proportionate to me and the artwork. This also allowed me to pre-plan for the pattern matching of the grid on the seams of the pants and top. Additionally, the top applique pattern is designed to hide the bust dart seams so it has a visually seamless appearance. The darts are curved rather than angular to avoid a pointed shape with the excess fabric cut away and stitched in a lapped seam style to reduce bulk.

After finalizing the applique patterns in paper, I used chalk tracing paper and a tracing wheel to transfer them to the white holographic spandex. Basically for each blue garment fabric piece, there was a corresponding white piece of the same shape that I then cut the applique designs out of. I couldn't get a rotary cutter to behave for cutting the applique designs out since the spandex was slippery, so I found it worked best to just cut the designs out with a sharp pair of fabric scissors.

Odif 505 temporary fabric spray adhesive is the BOMB. I just got it from my local Joann store, but if you can't get it the Spandex Simplified tutorial compares other adhesives you can try. Basically instead of using Heat-n-Bond like for regular applique, you spray the back of your spandex applique piece and then stick it onto your base fabric. Make sure to ventilate your workspace and wear a respirator, the fumes are not good! The Odif is temporary and can be repositioned, which I had to do quite a bit especially on the pants with a ruler to get all of the grid lines perfectly straight and positioned. You can always spray a little more on your piece and try again if it loses tackiness. I also had to go back and pin down all the areas that felt loose to prevent the design from shifting while sewing.

After your designs are temporarily glued on, use a small zizag machine stitch to stitch them on permanently. From a distance the zizag is nearly invisible, and more importantly it can stretch. I used Sulky rayon thread since the shine helped it vanish into the shiny spandex. The worst part of the applique process is doing trial and error tests to find the perfect machine tension and stitch size. I recommend cutting a sizable test version of one of your applique designs, and keep playing with machine settings until you end up with pucker free results. Then don't dare change your machine settings until you're done. I usually take pictures of my machine settings to document for later in case I need to remake something. The process is such a pain but so worth it!

Part 1 - Construction of the Staff

What you will need

2 pieces of PVC pipe (1 in diameter, 5 ft in length)

3 PVC pipe caps

3 PVC pipe joints (45˚ angle)

1 PVC pipe joint (90˚ angle)

Heavy-Duty Cutting tool

Step One

Take one of the two PVC pipes, this will become the crook of the staff. This is where the cutting tools come in handy. I used a Dremel, but a hand saw or circle saw work just as good. Use a marker to measure out two 6 inch pieces, one 4 inch piece, and one 3 inch piece.  Mark them like I did so you can keep track of which piece is which.

Step Two

Follow closely, we are going to take the pieces and make them look like the image on the right. You will need the pieces you just cut, one of the caps, and the joint pieces.

Take piece A and place a cap on one of the ends like shown.  On the other end of piece A you are going to place a 90˚ angle joint piece.

Take piece C and attach it to that 90˚ angle piece you just placed. Now place a 45˚ angle piece on the other end of C.

Take piece B and attach it to the 45˚ angle piece you just attached. Place another 45˚ angle piece on the other end.

Take piece D and attach it to the 45˚ angle piece you just attached. Place the final 45˚ angle piece on the other end of piece D.

At this point your crook should look like the image on the right. Flatten the crook against the ground so that it lays flat. Make sure all the pieces are attached tightly to one another and the joints are secured on there.

Step Three

Here is where you may have to adjust the height measurements of the staff depending on your own height. Take the second PVC pipe and attach it to the crook you just made. Place one of the two remaining caps on the bottom of the pole. The crook itself should measure about a foot in height. Since I am 5’2’’, I cut off 4 inches from the second PVC pipe pole so that the total height of the staff is about 5’8 (which is 6 inches above my own height). If you are 6 ft tall normally, cut the 10 ft pole to 5 feet, 6 inches, that way when you attach the crook (which is 1 ft) your total staff height is 6 feet 6 inches. 

**If you have questions about this part, or unsure, feel free to send me a note in my inbox and I will help you out with the measurements. **

Step Four

For this part, you can do one of two things. You can simply attach the cap to the 45˚ joint connecting the staff and the crook, or you can cut a small 2 inch piece of pipe and place the cap on that to attach.

Start by gluing all of the joints down to each piece. Make sure the pieces are secure before gluing. This gives the staff some sturdiness.

Next, align the piece onto the joint so that its sits at a slight angle. You may want a second person to help you with this part. Have someone hold the piece in place which you place glue around the piece attaching it to the joint. 

Don’t be stingy with the glue, give it a nice thick coat making sure it is firmly attached - you can always sand the extra away after it dries. 

For added security, attach rubber-bands to hold the piece in place while the glue dries.

Congratulations!!