#cookie blouson

Padded version of Cookie Blouson

I have just made two padded jackets using my existing patterns for this winter, which I really wanted to challenge for a long time. I was researching how they are made checking store made ones. Making padded jackets with real feathers like lux outdoor brand ones will be very difficult with general sewing machines, so I made them with batting materials. Here is how I made them and I hope it will be a tip/reference for people who want to make one, too.

<Pattern modification>

I wish to draft a padded coat pattern someday, but this one was made with Cookie blouson pattern as the first experiment.

Since this blouson pattern does not have enough ease for a winter coat, I used one size larger for comfortable room.

I drafted a new high neck hood and adjusted the bodice neckline wider as expecting it needs more room with very thick fabric. But when I tried it on, I found the high neck hood with this thickness is a bit uneasy. Maybe the neckline should be wider or using a non-highneck hood design like this free option pattern or original knit collar will be a better option.

The hem band was lengthened +2cm just for making it a design accent. For other small adjustments, I added a zipper guard and an inside pocket and changed the side pockets to a welt design.

<Materials>

The shell is a lightweight mixed wool twill. The water/windproof fabric like from outdoor brand ones will be a very functional option, but I was too chicken to use them. Luckily this light wool is actually warm enough.

The batting I used is about 12mm thick, 2 layers for bodice, sleeve and hood parts, and 1 layer for small parts like pocket welt pieces. I did not use it on the facing parts except the hood edge.

There are a lot of lovely ready-made quilted fabrics on the market. If you can find your favourite, using them will be the easiest way to make a padded coat.

<Sewing process>

The sewing process is basically the same as the normal one. Just add the batting as an interlining to the shell fabric after cutting and interfacing, then topstitch to fix the layers.

Since my batting is quite thick, I layered them on a curved surface using the edge of the table as basting to follow the 3d shape.

Topstitching was a bit difficult process with my vintage sewing machine. Adjusting the machine foot pressure or using a walking foot will help the work.

Cookie blouson has gathered parts and I thought it’s not suitable for this thick batting. I changed all the gather parts to darts only on the batting pieces and sew the darts edge to edge. The shell was gathered the same as the original. If the batting is thinner, maybe no need to modify it.

<Others>

It is very difficult to iron on interlined fabric with batting. So we have to consider non-ironing processes. For making the seams flat or shaping, I mainly used edge stitch and stitch-in-ditch and only used topstitching on the front zipper opening part. I like stitch-in-ditch and edge stitch on the facing for emphasizing puffy shape.

The seam allowance will be very thick, I cut all the excess batting on the allowance as stitching.

I used self-fabric ribbing for the hem and cuffs because I could not find the perfect fabric. Sewing this ribbing has no trick, just topstitch to make tunnels and casing elastic tapes like pyjama pants. I think using sheering elastic ribbons will be so much easier than casing and it’s available in many widths.

Even I do not fully satisfied with the details(like the high-neck hood), I overall like the result. It was a quite challenging project and takes a lot of time especially for researching, but I really enjoyed all the process and technique which I first tried. And, it is very warm.

If you also want to make a padded jacket, I strongly recommend experimenting with your materials. I think it all depends on your materials or design intensions for the detail and finish or choosing the pattern.

Also researching store made ones are very helpful.

I hope this post helps or inspires your projects!

You can find the sewing pattern of the Cookie blouson here.

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