#other tips

Meet new sewing pattern <Kanoko> Tote bag set

Meet the new item from Waffle Patterns Tote bag set <Kanoko> sewing pattern. This is a fun and functional tote bag 3 sisters set with many pockets. All sizes are perfect for daily use. Please make your favourite size with your favourite fabric. Those can be made with a relatively small amount of fabric, so, it is also nice to use your leftover fabrics from your stash.

<design options>

3 sizes are available; L - grocery size, M - commuter size, and S - accessory size. The grocery size is quite large and enough for supermarket or fabric shopping. The commuter size is suitable for daily use and the size for about 10″ iPad and other small things like a make-up pouch, wallet, or snacks. The accessory size is a very cute mini size for small staffs like a lip balm or candy.

L and M are basically the same design. Both have large 3D-shaped pockets on the front, side pockets with pleats, and a small pocket on the back. There are 2 kinds of functional inside pockets, too. There are 2 options for the opening. The L size sample shows magnet fastener + strap + side release buckle opening. The M sample features a zipper opening. You can add a shoulder strap on M size.

S size has also front/back and side pockets and a very small inside pocket. The closure is a magnet/snap fastener and an inside closure with tape+button.

<fabric recommendation>

The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Mid-heavy weight woven durable fabrics are suitable. like duck, twill, denim, linen, canvas or décor weight fabric etc. I think waxed fabrics or water repellent outdoor fabrics are great options, too. For the lining, plain cotton or linen will be a good option.

Depending on your fabric and your design intention, please consider using additional interfacing on the bag panels for adding extra strength or body.

Here are my sample’s materials.

The shell fabric of smoky pink samples is mixed twill. I wanted to add body on M size, so I used woven mid weight interfacing on bag panels. For L size, I only use interfacing on the facing parts to keep it light weight. I also made a sample of M size with mid weight denim + fusible fleece combo for stable shape.

The red and yellow plaid set are made with wool coating. Those are all leftover of my winter projects. I used woven interfacing on the panels on the M size. The lining is plain cotton.

Again, please consider the material combination depending on your fabric and design intention.

<other materials>

The samples are using 30mm~40mm webbing for the handles and straps. If you cannot find perfect colour or width, making those with contrast fabrics are the option.

I used the shoulder strap from ready made bags, but you can make them by yourself, too.

For additional strength, I added the plastic plates on the base of M and S size. The special materials for the bag base are sold at notion stores, but I used plastic plate cutting from old clear files and ice cream package.

Please choose suitable materials/parts for your design and shell fabrics. I strongly recommend checking actual material samples as much as possible and experimenting your fabrics before start the project.

<other>

For smoky pink samples, I used twill tape on the pocket opening of side and back pockets for strengthen and as a design accent. It is also good option if your fabric is too stiff or thick.

********************* The sewing pattern includes 17 pages of instructions and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copyshop(A0/A1 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The Tote bag set -Kanoko- (3 sizes) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 13th June 2023 (CEST) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer +17.5EUR for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available with plus 17.5EUR. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instructions by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

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Meet new sewing pattern <Kaede> Utility apron / Tool belt

A new item is just released from Waffle Patterns. Meet Utility apron / Tool belt <Kaede> sewing pattern. You can choose a bib apron type or tool belt with many useful pockets and functional parts!

Please freely mix and combine the design options as you like and make functional gear for sewists, gardeners, carpenters, makeup artists, florists, or all cool creative workers!

<Design options>

View A is an apron type with a bib and the apron is slightly longer than View B. The bib pocket has a layer and pen holder. There is a large layered pocket on the center of the apron and useful cargo pockets, zipper pockets, and hanger loops are on the side parts.

View B is a tool belt type with belt loops, and slightly shorter than View A. The center pocket has one more layer for the artist tool pocket where we can store brushes, seam rippers, or any other stick-shaped equipment. It features belt loops&belt. you can make a belt for this or use a belt you already have. Also, it can be changed to View A type of belt.

My personal favourite is the detachable tool pocket. If you want to make this, please attach the hunger loop or belt loops/belt for attaching it.

Please mix and match the options for your design intention and materials.

<fabric recommendation>

The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Mid-heavy weight durable fabrics like duck, twill, denim, linen, or canvas will be suitable.

Some very thick/stiff fabrics might not be suitable for details like double folded edge or flap etc, because of the thickness of fabric layers. Please consider proper finishes for your material or try to use a contrast fabric for some parts.

I partly used folded nylon tape instead of the double folded pocket opening edges on the sample. Depending on the fabric, maybe this is a good option for the hem, too. Also, I used a contrast fabric for the facing on the gray sample and skip interfacing on some parts, because the shell is quite stiff.

The salmon pink sample was made with mid-weight cotton duck, I made other workwear series with this like Anzu or Azuki. I bought it at local traveling fabric market years ago. Since the construction is like chambray or dungaree, similar fabrics may be found in coloured denim section.

The gray sample is a teflon-coated outdoor fabric. It’s a bit stiff for clothing but perfect for this item. This fabric is also from my local fabric market years ago.

I want to make another one with oil clothes, raw denim or nylon ripstop if I can find nice fabric.

<Other material>

The samples are using durable webbing tape for the belt and neck straps etc. Those tapes and parts like adjusters are sometimes found in bag making material section at stores. If you cannot find perfect materials, make the tape from a shell or contrast fabric of the same width.

<Size>

3 sizes XS/S, M/L, and XL/XXL are available. As for choosing your size, I recommend referring to the finishing measurement, too. I think some people like to use a tool belt of a smaller size. In that case, please choose a smaller size, then adjust the length of the belt and neck strap to fit your body. If you use the apron over jackets or outers, a larger size will be the option. Since the pattern is quite flat, those are suitable for men, too. The length might be too short. If you want to lengthen, off-setting the hem is the easiest way.

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The sewing pattern includes 15 pages of instructions and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copyshop(A0/A1 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The Utility apron / Tool belt -Kaede- (size XS - XXL) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 12th Sep 2022 (CEST) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer +12EUR for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available with plus 12EUR. Shipping worldwide. But please note that, in the current situation, all the shipments are affected by the measure of COVID-19. There might be some shipping delays or accidents. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instruction by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

*In the sale period, the shipping of the paper pattern starts 13th Sep 2022.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

**********************

Meet new sewing pattern <Anzu> Cargo Skirt

Meet the new item from Waffle Patterns Cargo skirt <Anzu> sewing pattern. This is a work/outdoor-wear inspired A-line skirt with functional details and many pockets, like a tool pocket, hammer loop, or holster pocket.

Make it with all the fun options or just keep it simple for daily use as you like. Depending on the design options or fabrics, it will be a hiking skirt, work apron or travel skirt, etc.

This is also a skirt version of my popular pattern <Azuki> cargo pants. If you like work/outdoor items, please try Azuki pants, too.

<Design options>

The front opening has 2 options; double-breasted with button closure or zipper opening. I think the zipper type is suitable for daily use and double breasted will be fun for a work apron. The side pockets are also 2 types. Please choose from the edge type and easy patch type.

For the long-length version, you can add three more patch pockets. They are all workwear-inspired functional designs; zipper pocket, flap pocket, and back tool pocket.

My favorite is the back zipper pocket on the yoke. I think it’s also nice to make with waterproof materials like thin nylon for hiking or travel skirts.

You can sew with or without the details like adjuster belt, hammer loop, inside pocket, back pleats, or lining. Please choose them as your fabric and design intention.

The yellow sample in the photos is intended for daily casual wear, featuring short length + side patch pockets + zipper opening. The salmon pink sample is more like a workwear style. I made it with long length + back pleats + double-breasted front opening and add many fun pockets.

<fabric recommendation>

The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Medium weight skirt fabrics will be suitable. For the authentic workwear style, denim, canvas, duck, cotton twill or chino are suitable. For travel/hiking skirts, outdoor fabric like softshell, water-repellent or some quilted fabric will be an interesting option. Just make sure that some specially thick fabrics are not suitable for details like pockets or pleat. Also some fabrics may require size adjustment, I recommend to make muslin for perfect fit.

It includes the lining pattern, too. Of course you can sew without a liner. Please choose suitable lining material depending on the shell and your design intention.

The salmon pink sample was made with mid-weight cotton duck. It was very easy to handle and a very fitting material for workwear.

The yellow sample is a mixed cotton twill. It is quite thick, so I avoided unsuitable details like the back pleat, layered pocket, etc.

I’m planning to make one more for the winter season with quilted fabric or water repellent fabric with warm fleece lining.

<Other> 

You can make it with or without the back pleat. For outdoor/work use, the pleat version will be more reasonable for more movement ease. The detachable holster pocket shares the same size/design as Azuki cargo pants. If you already made the pants, you can use the same pattern if the size is the same.

********************* The sewing pattern includes the 19 pages instruction and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or US letter) and copy shop(A0 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The Cargo skirt -Anzu- (size 32-52) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 15th April(CEST) with other popular patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer +12EUR for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available with plus 12EUR. Shipping worldwide. But please note that, in the current situation, all the shipments are affected by the measure of COVID-19. There might be some shipping delays or accidents. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instruction by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

*In the sale period, the shipping of the paper pattern starts 16th Apr.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

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Meet new sewing pattern <Yomogi> Shirt jacket

A new item for the fall season is just released from Waffle Patterns. Meet Shirt jacket <Yomogi> sewing pattern. A safari jacket inspired design with many functional details.

I love the classic safari shirt design because it’s functional sportswear but still looks neat and smart. Also, I saw a lot of safari jacket inspired runway look in recent seasons. Since this item is on my to-make list years long, I’m so happy finally can release it.

The base of the design is a regular fit shirt jacket with waist shaping. Of course, there are many pockets with design options including an inside pocket. Please play with the options and make it as you like. Depending on the fabric, it is going to be a very authentic safari shirt with khaki cotton twill or a vintage style with tweed wool fabric.

<Design options>

This shirt jacket has 2 chest pockets, 2 waist pockets, and an inside pocket. Both the chest and waist pocket are patch pockets, so very easy to install. 

The waist pocket design has 2 options. One is a patch pocket with flap and pleat. The other is a layered pocket with 2 pocket openings, it can be used as a hand warmer pocket. Please see the photo below about the detail.

The front opening has 2 options, too; a standard button closure or a hidden button stands. The brick-red sample in the photos shows the standard button opening. I attached large buttons for making them a design point. The gray herringbone sample features a hidden button stand. I like that makes a neat minimal style. You can also make with or without pockets. Please choose them as your fabric and design intension.

<fabric recommendation>

The pattern is drafted for woven fabrics. Light - medium weight jacket fabrics will be suitable. For the classic safari jacket, cotton twill, chino or duck will be nice options. I think wool, denim, corduroy, tweed, faux leather will be great, too.

The brick-red sample is cotton twill. I like the bright color and it’s very easy to sew and iron. I combine this very fun Koi print cotton as a liner. If you want to use non-lining fabric for liner like this, it is better to use for only bodice parts and use normal slippery lining material for sleeve parts for comfort.

The gray sample is mixed wool herringbone. I like this vintage and classic look! Maybe I should make matching pants and wear them like a suit.

I wanted to make one more with houndstooth wool. Unfortunately, under current measure influences, I could not find the perfect fabric in time.

<Other> You can make with or without lining. The instruction shows both ways. There are no big differences except the cuff opening part. Please check the instruction about the details of how to sew the cuff opening w/wo lining.

The interfacing on the Yoke parts is optional. If you want to make like a shirt, without interfacing will be no problem. I did not use on the brick-red sample, because the fabric is stiff enough. But I used on the gray wool sample for adding the structure on the soft material. Please choose depending on your fabric and your design intension.

********************* The sewing pattern includes the 19 pages instruction and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both home printers (A4 or USletter) and copy shop(A0/A1 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The shirt jacket -Yomogi- (size 32-52) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 20th Oct with other fall/winter patterns. No discount code is needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer +13EUR for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available with plus 13EUR. Shipping worldwide. But please note that, in the current situation, all the shipments are affected by the measure of COVID-19. There might be some shipping delays or accidents. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instruction by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

*In the sale period, the shipping of the paper pattern starts 21st Oct.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

*********************

Meet new sewing pattern <Azuki> Work pants

I feel it’s a bit strange time to release a new product. But I also hope this helps people enjoying to spend time at home. Meet my new sewing pattern, Work pants <Azuki>. 

I am a big fan of utility/work items and making or sketching those a lot. This pattern was made with those researches.

The base of the pants design is a very authentic regular ~ loose-fitting straight pants. But there are many functional options inspired by traditional workwear, like a tool pocket, hammer loop or knee patches with 3D shape. Make them with all the fun options or just keep them simple for daily use as you like.

<Design options>

Besides the edge pockets on both sides, there are 3 additionals for the front pockets, thigh pocket with zipper, flap thigh pocket and detachable holster pocket. Please choose them as your usage.

Back pockets are also customizable. I personally like this asymmetric look but you can make them like normal denim pants.

There are many other details inspired trad work pants like adjuster belt, hummer loop, or knee patches. Making those details requires time but they are well worth the effort. I hope you enjoy choosing and customizing the detail.

<fabric recommendation>

The pattern is drafted for woven pants fabrics. For the authentic work pants, denim, canvas, duck, cotton twill or chino are suitable. I also want to try with water-repellent fabrics like oil-coated fabric, depending on the usage.

Although the pattern is for woven, I tried to make them with stretch. The yellow ocher sample in the photo was made with low tension(under 7%) stretch denim. I needed to adjust the pattern around hip about -6mm on Front and Back. If you need to use stretch fabric, I recommend a low tension one and to consider altering the pattern for fitting by making a muslin.

The salmon pink sample was made with mid-weight cotton duck with contrast fabric. It was very easy to handle and very fitting material for workwear.

Generally, woven fabrics are more durable than stretch so they are suitable for utility items. But when I researched a workwear trade show, I saw many companies are recently using stretch fabrics on full-body or some specific parts for helping body movement. In countries with humid weather, like my mother country Japan, it looks 100% cotton woven is still very standard for comfort.

*********************  The sewing pattern includes the 15 pages instruction and all the sewing processes are described with detailed illustrations. The pattern files are available for both homeprinter(A4 or USletter) and copy shop(A0/A1 format).

You can check other photos of this model on my Flickr page.

The Work pants -Azuki- (size 32-52) PDF sewing pattern is available here. Also in the Etsy shop.

Special discount price until 20th May with other summer patterns! No discount code needed! The sale page is here.

*****  Special offer +11EUR for Paper pattern and free shipping Paper pattern + PDF option is available with plus 11EUR. Shipping worldwide. But please note that, in the current situation, all the shipments are affected by the measure of COVID-19. There might be some shipping delays or accidents. *The paper includes only the pattern, please print out the instruction by yourself or read it with your tablet or PC.  The PDF + Paper listing page is here.

*In the sale period, the shipping of the paper pattern starts 21st May.

Enjoy your sewing!

(Japanese post here 日本語ポストはこちら).

*********************

Padded version of Yuzu coat

I have made two padded jackets using my existing patterns for this winter. Here is the 2nd experiment; Puffy padded version of Yuzu coat. (Please see here for the 1st version with Cookie blouson pattern). I really love the result and am sharing here how I made it. I hope it will be a tip/reference for people who want to make one, too. It is not really a down jacket with real feather, but I made it with a normal house sewing machine with batting materials.

<Pattern / Pattern modification>

I used Yuzu coat pattern. Normally, double-breasted design is not suitable for very thick materials like batting/quilted fabrics. But I see many double-breasted padded jackets on high street fashion and they all look so cute. So I decided to try it.

I did not really change the pattern. Just shortened the front part of the high neck collar. Because this thick fabric with this high neck design gives me an uneasy feeling around my face. The cut is similar to the front part of this hood pattern.

This pattern is very roomy, so I used my usual size without alterations. But depending on materials or how to wear, using one size larger might be an option.

For other small adjustments, I added an inside pocket and knit cuffs for extra warmth.

<Materials>

This shell fabric is corduroy. First I was searching for faux leather or wool twill, but when I saw this one at the store, I decided to use it immediately. This corduroy has a very soft touch and I really love the rich shade.

I considered the water/windproof fabric will be a very functional option, but I still am too chicken to use them. Also, I could not find a nice one.

For the batting, I used about 20mm thick for the bodice, sleeve and collar parts and 12mm thick for the small parts like pocket welt pieces. I did not use it on the facing parts.

<Sewing process>

The sewing process is basically the same as the original one. Just add the batting as an interlining to the shell and topstitch. (I explained this step in another post. Please refer to that.)

As for the hem finish, since it is difficult to iron and crease the fabric after interlined with the batting, I pressed and creased all the hem before the interlining process. Then cut and omit the batting on the hem allowance.

Many store-bought padded jackets use hem finish with the lining edge to edge or shell + facing + lining instead of the folded hem finish. I think it is because they are using mainly water/windproof fabric and those cannot be ironed or creased. Also, the hem + facing finish is suitable for making a string casing. I want to use this faced hem detail when I will make a more functional/outdoor style one.

As for the knitted cuffs, I used the same way as the Tsubaki coat. It is constructed from shell + facing + knit + lining from outside to inside.

<Others>

For flattening and shaping the edge, I used edge stitching a lot. The seam allowances of the edges of the collar and front center are turned to the facing side and edge-stitched. I like it more than topstitching because it emphasizes the puffy effect. Topstitching will be more suitable and functional for sporty items.

The front fastenings are fabric-covered snap fasteners and buttons. I wanted to add a bit lux touch to this silky corduroy. I was planning to use metal snap fasteners or magnet type. But it seems too heavy for this fabric and I could not find suitable design ones. 

I used the lining fabric for covering the snaps and the self fabric for the front side. But there are ready-made covered snaps available on the market. I am very much satisfied with this result. They suit this padded corduroy better than I expected.

Other small points/tips are the same as the padded Cookie blouson. Please refer to it.

It was a time-consuming project but I am really like the result! Also, challenging projects cheered me up under this unusual circumstance in lockdown.

I hope this post will be a small help for people who also want to make a winter coat. If you plan to make a padded coat, I strongly recommend experimenting with your materials well. Please consider choosing the right and suitable pattern/size or finishing treatment with your materials and design intentions. Also, I recommend researching store made ones which have a similar design to your idea.

You can find the sewing pattern of the Yuzu coat pattern here.

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Padded version of Cookie Blouson

I have just made two padded jackets using my existing patterns for this winter, which I really wanted to challenge for a long time. I was researching how they are made checking store made ones. Making padded jackets with real feathers like lux outdoor brand ones will be very difficult with general sewing machines, so I made them with batting materials. Here is how I made them and I hope it will be a tip/reference for people who want to make one, too.

<Pattern modification>

I wish to draft a padded coat pattern someday, but this one was made with Cookie blouson pattern as the first experiment.

Since this blouson pattern does not have enough ease for a winter coat, I used one size larger for comfortable room.

I drafted a new high neck hood and adjusted the bodice neckline wider as expecting it needs more room with very thick fabric. But when I tried it on, I found the high neck hood with this thickness is a bit uneasy. Maybe the neckline should be wider or using a non-highneck hood design like this free option pattern or original knit collar will be a better option.

The hem band was lengthened +2cm just for making it a design accent. For other small adjustments, I added a zipper guard and an inside pocket and changed the side pockets to a welt design.

<Materials>

The shell is a lightweight mixed wool twill. The water/windproof fabric like from outdoor brand ones will be a very functional option, but I was too chicken to use them. Luckily this light wool is actually warm enough.

The batting I used is about 12mm thick, 2 layers for bodice, sleeve and hood parts, and 1 layer for small parts like pocket welt pieces. I did not use it on the facing parts except the hood edge.

There are a lot of lovely ready-made quilted fabrics on the market. If you can find your favourite, using them will be the easiest way to make a padded coat.

<Sewing process>

The sewing process is basically the same as the normal one. Just add the batting as an interlining to the shell fabric after cutting and interfacing, then topstitch to fix the layers.

Since my batting is quite thick, I layered them on a curved surface using the edge of the table as basting to follow the 3d shape.

Topstitching was a bit difficult process with my vintage sewing machine. Adjusting the machine foot pressure or using a walking foot will help the work.

Cookie blouson has gathered parts and I thought it’s not suitable for this thick batting. I changed all the gather parts to darts only on the batting pieces and sew the darts edge to edge. The shell was gathered the same as the original. If the batting is thinner, maybe no need to modify it.

<Others>

It is very difficult to iron on interlined fabric with batting. So we have to consider non-ironing processes. For making the seams flat or shaping, I mainly used edge stitch and stitch-in-ditch and only used topstitching on the front zipper opening part. I like stitch-in-ditch and edge stitch on the facing for emphasizing puffy shape.

The seam allowance will be very thick, I cut all the excess batting on the allowance as stitching.

I used self-fabric ribbing for the hem and cuffs because I could not find the perfect fabric. Sewing this ribbing has no trick, just topstitch to make tunnels and casing elastic tapes like pyjama pants. I think using sheering elastic ribbons will be so much easier than casing and it’s available in many widths.

Even I do not fully satisfied with the details(like the high-neck hood), I overall like the result. It was a quite challenging project and takes a lot of time especially for researching, but I really enjoyed all the process and technique which I first tried. And, it is very warm.

If you also want to make a padded jacket, I strongly recommend experimenting with your materials. I think it all depends on your materials or design intensions for the detail and finish or choosing the pattern.

Also researching store made ones are very helpful.

I hope this post helps or inspires your projects!

You can find the sewing pattern of the Cookie blouson here.

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