#chicama

The longest, left-breaking wave in the world, Chicama, Peru

Chicama, Peru

"Where do we find ourselves? In a series of which we do not know the extremes, and believe that it has none. We wake and find ourselves on a stair; there are stairs below us, which we seem to have ascended; there are stairs above us, many a one, which go upward and out of sight. But the Genius which, according to the old belief, stands at the door by which we enter, and gives us the lethe to drink, that we may tell no tales, mixed the cup too strongly, and we cannot shake off the lethargy now at noonday. Sleep lingers all our lifetime about our eyes, as night hovers all day in the boughs of the fir-tree. All things swim and glitter. Our life is not so much threatened as our perception. Ghostlike we glide through nature, and should not know our place again. Did our birth fall in some fit of indigence and frugality in nature, that she was so sparing of her fire and so liberal of her earth, that it appears to us that we lack the affirmative principle, and though we have health and reason, yet we have no superfluity of spirit for new creation? We have enough to live and bring the year about, but not an ounce to impart or to invest. Ah that our Genius were a little more of a genius!" - Ralph Waldo Emerson Essays: Second Series [Thanks Whiskey River]

It is called Chicama (northern Peru), it is found in only one point on the Peruvian coast, and it is the only wave in the world protected by law. Nothing can be built within two kilometers of that place, so nothing can affect its natural formation.

during my trip to Chicama Beach-- which you can read about here!-- I went to a literature museum. here it is!

buscando las olas...

Chicama, La Libertad, Peru