Jun 8, 2017
Ceuse
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Ceuse
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Winter landscape on the Céüse mountain, Alpine region of France
French vintage postcard
Ceuse in south of france sport climbing :
Grande face inesperance :
Salut l’ami 6b warm up route (tricky a few bolts up where I rested for a minute as I felt a little pumped and didn’t want to get flash pumped on the first route!)
La perspective des chrysanthemes 6c super cool route. It was a bit wet in the higher crux getting up into the corner across the mini overhang. I got a bit pumped and had to rest for a minute before continuing!
Le S de Sena 7a+ such a good line. Had to take a couple of rests one in the upper middle where I got pumped holding onto little holds heading out left and once higher up when I had lost all endurance and it was quite a long route after lock down lack of climbing
Los indignados 6b+ was a long and interesting route. Felt tricky at the bottom section as it was wet and some parts of the crack were a bit wet too but really long and enjoyable climbing
La Pierre de Mars 7a onsight happy to get this first time. The route seemed quite easy to read with decent holds and was just long really!
A trop tater ton trou tu t’irretes 7a messed this one up at the top. It was big juggy holds and then clipping the chain was quite a stretch and strong move!
Papy Bourne 7b/c tried this on a top rope
as my mate Rhys was redpointing it. The mono move into the big jug was a massive reach and felt very strenuous then even when you have done that the moves afterwards are on small holds with what feels like no feet. It gets well pumpy further up too. Not one I think I could redpoint anytime soon, it’s got a few sections of tricky pumpy climbing for me.
Cascade:
Des trous direct 6b bit of a pumpy warm up!
Les sales blagues a nanard 6c had to rest a couple of times due to mega pump
La bonne poire nails felt super steep and took me a longtime to climb it
I went with my friend Rhys and we stayed in my van. Because of the virus the car parks were super empty and the only other people there seemed to be people from chamonix who were also escaping the bad weather. The water that says it’s not drinkable is fine. There are also toilets. I washed in the lake and using my solar shower. The walk up is pretty steep but everyone seems to leave their bags until the overhangs at the top and no one complains of stuff getting stolen. I had to work a couple of days while I was there so just went to a little hotel in the village up the road which had a lovely view over the countryside in a greenhouse where I just sat and drunk coffee all alone.
http://www.fotovertical.com
Today we want to share an old photo... Gabriele Moroni, an Italian climber, in the route "Le Cadre" in Céüse, France.
Van life in Ceuse and Fontainbleau
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Stefano Ghisolfi #e9team on Biographie 9a+ Ceüse Ph. Gianluca Bosetti
Big up to Stefano Ghisolfi #e9team that spent 3 week-ends trying this ruote and, at the end of the sixth days, on the most unexpected moment and bleeding from one finger, was able to climb a piece of history freed by Chris Sharma in 2001. Biographie, 9a+, Céüse Ph. Gianluca Bosetti