#bongao

Every Saturday in the town of Panglima Sugala in Tawi-Tawi, the age-old practice of barter comes vividly to life.

I was in Barangay Batu-Batu just in time for Adlaw Pagtabuh-tabuh, a weekly market where trading is done through barter—a system in which goods are exchanged for other goods, rather than for money. It felt surreal to witness something I had only read about in history books now unfolding before me.

Once the capital of Tawi-Tawi, Batu-Batu saw the seat of government transferred to the nearby town of Bongao in the late 1970s. But despite this political transition, the barangay remains a vital hub of local life. Many Sama-Badjaus continue to reside here, while others return regularly on market days.

Batu-Batu is surrounded by fertile lands, dense forests, and rich coastal waters—all vital sources of sustenance and livelihood for the Sama-Badjaus. The quaint barangay—and Panglima Sugala more broadly—continues to serve as an important commercial hub for the province.

Batu-Batu feels timeless, where tradition is not merely preserved but actively woven into the fabric of daily life. Here, barter isn't a staged cultural display, but a functional and enduring mechanism of community exchange and social cohesion.

Tawi-Tawi stands as the Philippines’ largest producer of seaweed, anchoring the livelihoods of many coastal communities across the province. Locally known as agal-agal, seaweed is harvested and either sold fresh—often tossed into vibrant, flavorful salads—or dried and stored in warehouses before being transported to larger markets like Zamboanga City for industrial use.

Both the seafaring and shoreline Sama-Badjaus sail in with wooden boats laden with reef fish, shellfish, and seaweed harvested from the Sulu and Celebes Seas. Likewise, farming Sama-Badjaus from the island interiors bring root crops, vegetables, coconuts, bananas, and other produce to trade.

Tawi-Tawi, a place often spoken of in distance but rarely in detail. For many, it feels far and unfamiliar. For me, it became a quiet reminder that beauty does not always announce itself loudly. Sometimes, it waits patiently, surrounded by sea, sky, and stories that deserve to be told.

The island does not try to impress; it simply exists, steady and sincere. It is a place where simplicity feels complete, where silence is not empty, and where every view carries a sense of grounding.

My trip to Tawi-Tawi was part of an office activity, where we conducted an orientation for a particular program while taking the chance to explore and appreciate the islands.

As one of the provinces in the Bangsamoro Region, Tawi-Tawi holds a unique place in our region, both culturally and geographically.

Before heading back to our office station, we decided to climb the famous Bud Bongao early in the morning.

Staring around 5 AM, we reached the summit just past 6 AM. Bud Bongao, often called the "sacred mountain of Tawi-Tawi," is not just a natural landmark but also a site of cultural and spiritual significance.

Pilgrims and locals alike climb its trails, and from the top, you can see panoramic views of the surrounding islands, including the nearby Malaysian Island of Pulau Sebatik, as well as the sunrise casting a golden glow over the horizon.

With our flight scheduled for 9 AM, we had to hurry back down, but the serene atmosphere and the breathtaking views made every step unforgettable.

Most of my visits were in Bongao, as it is the main island. However, there was one occasion when we also had the opportunity to explore Sangay Siapuh, a serene coastal area that offered a quieter glimpse of the island's natural beauty.

From Bongao, we took a boat to Sangay Siapuh, a journey that lasted a little over an hour. The ride itself was part of the experience, with the gentle sway of the boat and the vast expanse of sea around us setting the tone for the serene beauty that awaited us on the island.

The waters of Sangay Siapuh are remarkably clear, almost like glass, reflecting the sky and the surrounding landscape. The beauty of the place feels pure and unspoiled, a peaceful escape that stays with you long after you leave.

Beautiful, Sangay Siapuh.

One tip from my experience for anyone visiting Tawi-Tawi: avoid drinking tap water. For safety and peace of mind, stick to bottled or mineral water throughout your stay.