#bench plane

Before you get a bench plane for your job, you need to figure out what type of job you will do with the plane. Depending upon your woodwork, you need to choose either a metal plane or a wooden plane. Cost is another consideration that you need to take into account.

Metal vs. wooden

It would help if you simplified which one you should purchase. Wooden planes are for those who prefer to plane with their full physical effort. The metal planes are considered to be easier to adjust.

Low-angle vs. the standard Stanley-Bailey design

You can be very much comfortable with the low-angle planes as they are easier to set up. Also, they have a lower center of balance, which made them better for the actual job of planing. These planes are more comfortable to adjust the mouth opening. On the other hand, you have to dismantle a standard Stanley/Bailey type to get to the frog release and adjuster screws, for which you may also require a screwdriver. However, adjusting the blade depth of the Stanley/Bailey design is much more comfortable. However, woodworkers often say that the blade depth adjuster of the Stanley/Bailey design has less backlash than the low-angle plane’s Norris-style adjuster.

New vs. second hand

Before you purchase a bench plane for your job, you need to consider whether to buy a new one of an old one. Some experienced woodworkers believe good-condition old planes are way more superior to the new ones as the materials were given to the old ones are better than those that are new in the market. The old ones also require a little while to set up, and the results will be better than what you get from a new one.

What’s the most versatile bench plane?

The most versatile planes are considered to be the low-angle jack planes. It can be very much useful for stock removing, leveling, and straightening, and even smoothing the wood quite perfectly. However, the way to get the most out of the low-angle jack is to have several blades honed to give different cut angles for several tasks.

Ease of uses vs. experience

If you are experienced in using a standard bench plane, then a Stanley / Bailey-style jack plane would be the right choice. A Stanley / Bailey-style jack plane can also do the work of a smoothing plane and afore plane to an acceptable quality. You should get a low-angle plane if you are looking for ease of setting up, or a standard Stanley / Bailey-type planes if you have experience of them.

But wood still has its attractions

If you stick to wooden planes due to their look and their close relationship to the material you are working on, you also need to decide between the necessary type and those with additional features. For example handles and blade depth and lateral adjustment mechanisms.

Considering cost

You can get new planes at a lower price, but the quality of the materials used, and the accuracy of machining and hardness of the iron may not be quite useful. On the other hand, some metal smoothing and jack planes may cost you several pounds, but the quality is extraordinarily superior. However, wooden bench planes are still manufactured by specialist firms, but these planes tend to be very expensive.

Conclusion

Bench planes are the everyday workhorses for those woodworkers who rely entirely on the hand planes. However, some bench planes are used to reduce and straighten the pieces of a woodworking project to the desired dimensions, and others are used for smoothing the surfaces of the wood to give a superior finishing of your workpiece. There are usually four types of bench planes with metal and wooden equivalents of each.

Jack planes

The jack planes are used to straighten a piece of wood further; usually, after it has been worked through a jointer or a thicknesser, two electronically powered machines used in the initial preparation of wood or have been roughly sized by a scrub plane. They are general-purpose bench planes and also be used for truing and the initial smoothing of the surface of the wood. Truing means leveling faces and edges in addition to ensuring they are square with each other.

Fore planes

The fore planes are sized mid-way between the jack and the jointer. This plane is designed to further straighten and square the wood’s surface after the use of the scrub plane. Check out our website for effective information on block vs bench plane right now.

Jointer planes

The jointer is known as the most extended bench plane. It has a dual role;

1. One is stock-removing by reducing the size of the wood and 2. Second is accurately up long edges or leveling wide boards.

Smoothing planes

Smoothing planes are used in the final stage. The purpose of using the smoothing planes is they are used for smoothing the final work. When setting up and used the plane correctly, the finish it gives is far superior to that made of sandpaper.

Iron clamping and adjustment

The irons or blades of most metal bench planes are clamped and adjusted by a system developed by Leonard Bailey in the United States in the mid-1800s and later acquired by the Stanley Works, U.S. tool manufacturer. However, the wooden versions typically have a much simpler method of iron clamping and adjustment. Generally, a wooden wedge is used for securing the iron, and its depth and alignment across the sole of the plane is achieved by the rudimentary means of hitting the metal on the top or side with a hammer.

Low-angle, bevel-up bench planes

Most metal bench planes are developed and manufactured based on the original Stanley / Bailey bench plane design or pattern. The low-angle bench planes have tremendously increased its popularity and do have a significant advantage in use. The essential position is the mouth adjustment is much easier than with a standard bench plane, because they are bevel-up, a set of irons honed at different cutting angles enables the plane to perform a wide range of jobs.

Conclusion

If you are going to have just one plane, you should have a jack plane. It can do the job of the other planes. It is most commonly used to thickness and flatten boards, but it can also joint and smooth boards. 

Thickness and Flatten

Despite the fact that they often look straight and flat in the lumber yard, boards are rarely as flat as you need. They cup, bow and twist when the humidity changes. So you need a jack plane to get them flat again. While flattening you can also take the opportunity to remove some of the heft of the board and get it close to its final thickness.

For flattening, the mouth of the plane is set wide open, and the iron is ground to have a curved cutting edge instead of a straight edge. This allows the blade to scoop out wood as it cuts.

The first step in flattening is to figure out where the board isn't actually flat. If the board is twisted, then you'll need to focus more of the plane's cutting on the corners that are twisted up. If the board's face is cupped, then you want to remove more wood from the edges. If the face is bowed, then you want to remove more from the middle. Once you've established where most of your flattening work needs to be done, you can use a pencil or piece of chalk to scribble on the board in the areas to focus on. The nice thing about planing is that you're removing the top layers of wood, so scribble away.

The typical image we have of someone using a hand plane is of them running it along the grain and slicing out a long wispy curl of wood. It turns out that this is not the only way you can do it, and long wispy curls don't do much to make a board flat. So flattening a board starts with the plane moving 90 degrees to the direction of the grain. It is amazing how quickly and how much wood this technique removes. Don't worry too much if your plane is leaving visible tracks, the primary focus is to get things flat. The subsequent steps exist to remove the tracks.

Once you've covered your board with lovely cross-grain planing marks and have a board that is quite a bit flatter, it's time to change directions. Start by planing in a direction that is 45 degrees to the direction of the grain. Instead of short clumps of wood shavings, this will give curly shavings, and the board will start to get smoother. At this point your board will be noticeably flatter. As you're working diagonally, you might want to retract the blade some and take shallower cuts.

Once the board is covered in diagonal tracks, change directions again. This time go 45 degrees from the grain in the opposite direction (that is 90 degrees from your existing tracks). Again you may want to retract the blade some more. With each step the track marks will be shallower and the board flatter.

The last step in flattening is to plane in the direction of the grain (like you imaged you would be all along). Again you probably want to retract the blade some more. Plane until the board is flat and smooth.

The real last step is to check for flatness again, and if it is flat you're done. If it isn't flat, grab your chalk and go back to step one, but you don't have to start out quite so aggressively.

All in all, this process goes a lot faster than you might expect. The cross-grain work at the beginning removed a lot of wood quickly, because it exploits natural weaknesses of the wood. The diagonal cuts tend to mostly remove the weak ridges left behind by previous steps. The straight cuts will remove the diagonal tracks quickly because of the same cross-grain weakness of the wood in the ridges. Now you're ready to flip the board over and do the same to the other size!

Jointing

Jointing is the process of making the edge of a board smooth and square to the face. A jointer plane is typically much longer than a jack plane, but the jack plane is long enough to joint smaller jobs without any problem. It can be used on larger jobs in a pinch. For jointing, you want the mouth to be fairly tight. Some people like to use a curved blade and others like a straight blade. Most of the time boards, are thin enough that it makes little difference.

Smoothing

Smoothing what old-school woodworkers did before sand paper became available and popular. Smoothing planes are smaller, have a tight mouth, and a straight blade (which might have a very slight curve at the edges to prevent tracks). The jack plane can easily be configured such that it is a large smoothing plane. Planing goes along the face with the blade extending the smallest amount that gives an extremely thin shaving.

The Jack of all Trades

This plane gets its name from the phrase that dates back to at least the early 1600s, because it can do the job of three planes quite well. Some people purchase a second blade so they can easily switch between tasks. Having planes optimized for specific tasks can be great, but if you are getting started or want to invest in a set of planes, you will not go wrong with starting out with a single jack plane.

How do I get one?

There are two main options when buying a hand plane. You can buy vintage or buy new. Stanley made some great hand planes up until WW2. You can find them on ebay, at flea markets, at yard sales, at estate sales and at tool meet ups. You can get some great deals, though you should expect to put in a lot of work to get them into good working order. If you go the new route, then you'll pay more up front and pay less in time later.

In the model numbering system that Stanley introduced over a century ago, you want to look for a #5 bench plane. They all also make a #5-1/2, which is wider and heavier. Both planes work great. Which you choose is entirely up to you. Heavier means you might get tired more quickly, but you might like the weight and wider blade.

Here are a couple options from companies whose planes I've purchased in the past.

Lie Nielsen - $245 - Low angle jack plane. Lie Nielsen is the premiere tool company. You will pay more, but get tools built at the highest possible level around. Made in the USA. The cool thing about this plane is that Lie Nielsen sells extra blades pre-ground for use in different planing tasks.

WoodRiver - $195 - #5-1/2 jack plane. WoodRiver makes a line of very high quality planes modeled after the Stanley Bedrock series of planes. I own this plane and it is one of my favorites.

New Post has been published on http://homecabinetbars.com/you-need-a-hand-plane/

You Need a Hand Plane

Have you ever used a hand plane, such as a block plane, smoothing plane, jack plane, or some other bench plane? If not, or if you have only ever used a poor quality budget model, you may not have a good perception of them. However, hand planes are awesome tools to have around and if you're going to be working with wood regularly, it's a good idea to at least have a jack plane and a small block plane.

There's something about hand planes that draws me to them like some people might be drawn to look at a painting by van Gogh. I can't quite put my finger on what it is about hand planes that I find so alluring, but I'd definitely have a huge collection of them if I didn't have to justify the expense to the wife;) I think these wonderful tools are works of art and science. The simplicity in the concept behind how a hand plane works is an idea that I find soothing enough to use during meditation. Well, I would use this idea if I regularly meditated anyway.

Don't let the simplistic appearance of these tools fool you though. A good hand plane has a lot of design history and science behind it. There are differences between a budget hand plane and a great one. The biggest difference most people notice is the price. A great hand plane, such as those from Lie-Nielsen, don't come cheap, but they do come extremely well made. You don't have to drop over $200 to get a good hand plane as long as you're willing to put some effort into tuning the hand plane and improving the shortcomings that will inevitably come with a budget hand plane.

There are ways to get a great hand pane at a big savings. One way is to buy a less expensive hand plane and do a very thorough revamp to turn it into a useful precision tool. Another option is to buy a good used hand plane, such as one of the many used Stanley hand planes from the 1940's and 1950's. These are sold all over the internet on various used tool and auction sites. These may require a little cleaning and refurbishing, but the age isn't a big deal if they have been maintained well. This is a good argument in favor of dropping $300 on a new hand plane; a great hand plane will last for generations…yes, generations! If you buy a good one, you should never need to buy another one of the same size. If, on the other hand, you buy a cheap hand plane, you may get frustrated with it or it may break in some way that can't be fixed, which will lead to you either giving up on using hand planes or buying more of them.

I have personally spent the time tuning a few Groz planes, and although there were some significant fine-tuning issues, I turned them into some great planes. It takes time though. I spent about 3 hours on each of the Groz planes to bring them up to a level that would meet my performance expectations. These hand planes worked right out of the box, but their performance was only barely acceptable. I love them now and wouldn't trade them, but I could have saved myself at least 5 hours by buying a higher quality hand plane set to start with.

I suppose it really comes down to how much your time is worth and your skill level in tuning hand planes. Regardless of how you get one, just be sure to get one soon if you're going to build a custom home bar or any other type of furniture. Just having a hand plane or multiple planes isn't enough; you will want to practice using a hand plane and get comfortable with using it before you touch it to something important, such as a bar top. Trust me, there will be times that you'll be very thankful to have have a well tuned hand plane and block plane.

New Post has been published on http://homecabinetbars.com/hand-planes/

Hand Planes

There's something about hand planes that draws me to them like some people might be drawn to look at a painting by Van Gogh. I can't quite put my finger on what it is about hand planes that I find so alluring, but I'd definitely have a huge collection of them if I didn't have to justify the expense to the wife;) I think these wonderful tools are works of art and science. The simplicity in the concept behind how a hand plane works is an idea that I find soothing enough to use during meditation. Well, I would use this idea if I regularly meditated anyway.

Don't let the simplistic appearance of these tools fool you though. A good hand plane has a lot of design history and science behind it. There are differences between a budget hand plane and a great one. The biggest difference most people notice is the price. A great hand plane, such as those from Lie-Nielsen, don't come cheap, but they do come extremely well made. Do you have to drop over $200 to get a good hand plane? No, you don't as long as you're willing to put some effort into tuning the hand plane and improving the shortcomings that will come with a budget hand plane.