#bbq joint

Once upon a time, Mason Dixon was a line that clearly divided the North and South, but now–in Stamford–Mason Dixon is a Smokehouse that clearly divides killer BBQ from, um, well, pretty much all the rest. Yup, as we shared back on October 1, Pitmaster Nestor Laracuente was on a mission to open up a new BBQ joint, a joint that would clearly draw a new line for BBQ in Fairfield County. When we discovered the Brooklyn Pit Rat chose to open that joint in our very own Stamford, we were thankful AF we were on the right side of the line.

So while we were eager to get in there as soon as it opened, we like to give a restaurant a few weeks to work the kinks out before we review. As you can imagine, the suspense was killing us, even more so because we follow their hot, meaty, BBQ porn laden Instagram account . . . ooooh yeaaaahhh . . . ok, we digress. So yes, we finally dropped in with our friend Nicole and her friend Justin and took down pretty much EVERYTHING from cocktails, to sides, to apps, and of course to the MEATS. So, let’s break it on down:

Cocktails and Drinks

Let’s not pretend here. If you’re going to a real-deal BBQ spot, you cannot and should not pass up the drinks. And, while we love the combo of beer and BBQ (especially when they have 8 on draft and 18 by the bottle here) or maybe even a big ole bold wine which they have a nice selection of, we couldn’t resist digging into their creative cocktail menu, mainly because, well, Bourbon was a key ingredient in a bunch of the drinks. F’ yeah!

First up was the Snake In My Boot which is a drink Dan has been searching for ever since a trip to The Bearded Lady in Portland, ME. This cocktail, made with Rittenhouse Rye, Mezcal Vida, Averna, Hellfire Bitters, and Velvet Falernum, has a smoky undertone and a leathery kind of punch. Yes, leathery . . . trust us, it’s there. This is definitely a liquor lover’s cocktail because those are the dominant flavors. We’d suggest pairing this up with some of the heavier choices on the menu like the beef ribs or brisket.

Also up on the cocktail queue was the Southern Revival, a citrusy drink with lemon coming through. It had a bright bite, and just a perfect punch of sweetness. We also dug a Shallow Grave (points for that pun, right?) with the peaches adding a tart and fruity feel. Again, there was a great balance between liquor and sweetness. After that we took a trip over to the Wild Wild West cocktail that had that tart sweet punch from grapefruit coming through . . . another definite must order. And, because the owner Cristina Ramirez had suggested to it to us during the meal, we went with the White Lie. The pineapple sneaks up front with the gin finishing in a gentle undertone. We’re  not gonna lie (ha, see what we did there), it was our favorite cocktail of the night and a great drink for the gin-shy or the afficiando.

The Apps

As fans of food in all its glorious forms, we cannot pass up apps . . . even at a BBQ restaurant when you know you’re gonna feel like the greasy pig you ate for at least 24 hours after. So . . . Pork Rind Nachos. Pork Rind Nachos, yes. Motherf@#ker, these were some seriously awesome nachos. Why? Well, the pork rinds lay on the bottom like little prizes in your cereal box, some super crispy, and some softer all sopped up with sauce. The pulled pork on top was flavorful, delicate, juicy, the guac on top added a rich creaminess, and the sour cream helped to cut the in-your-face flavors of the entire dish. MUST. ORDER.

Justin wanted the Rib Tips, so we were more than welcome to oblige with an order. The pork flavor came to the front with a smoky and unctuous slap. Yeah, that’s right: freakin unctuous. If you’re a fan of the crispy and crunchy parts of the rib, this is definitely your jam. We also went with the chicken wings, but had trouble deciding between Buffalo, Jerk, or BBQ. But, since we figured we’d be having plenty o’ BBQ, we went with the fun Jerk style. The drums were crispy on the outside, while juicy in the middle, but the flats weren’t as crispy. So, half of us (Dan, the drumstick man) were satisifed, and the other half (Kristien, who loves the flats) wanted more crunch from the skin. We did love the Jerk sauce that had a nice kick to it, though.

Sides

One of the many things we love about Nestor (don’t let the badass, devil horn throwing, slayer overall wearing exterior scare ya, he’s really a teddy bear . . . a demented teddy bear that may or may not be sinisterly plotting your demise while you cuddle it in your sleep, but a teddy bear nonetheless) is that he sees the importance of the sides being as good as the meats. In fact, he actually started off as a chef before he even got the BBQ bug.

Up first were the Brisket Beans which were spicy, smoky, rich, and also tasted great the next day. We loved the chunks of brisket, too, adding a nice texture and flavor to the beans.

Also, the Mac-N-Cheese: Kristien’s Achilles’ heal! Yum! Like a classic, old school kinda dish with plenty of rich and melty cheese. A definite win.

Collard Greens: Excellent, cooked just right, but Dan thought just a bit too salty. Kristien says no such thing.

Vinegar Apple Slaw: Fun, with a nice sweetness to it. The bright flavors are a really nice way to break up the heavy and rich BBQ . . . it felt like a vacation for your mouth.

Loaded Potato Salad: This was our least favorite of the evening. Not bad by any means, but it just seemed bland and unoriginal considering everything else was so damn good.

Cornbread: This is some of the best cornbread that you’ll find in any BBQ spot in the Northeast. It was delicate, moist, and wasn’t too dense. Oh, and it stood the next day test quite well, too. ;) Kristien about near died of cornbread overdose.

The MEATS

St. Louis Ribs, Potato Salad, Slaw, Pork Belly at Mason Dixon Smokehouse in Stamford, CT

Brisket, sausage, chicken, cornbread, mac and cheese, pit beans, and collard greens at Mason Dixon Smokehouse in Stamford, CT

We started with the Beef Ribs which Nestor brought over to us. So, we wondered how this would compare to the last time we had his ribs . . . oh, hot damn they were excellent as always. First of all, it looks like you’re about ready to tear through a serious dinosaur bone, that’s how massive these bad boys are. When you bite in, you get tastes of some of the most delicately cooked BBQ here in the Northeast. The crust, nice and simple, adds a great texture contrast and flavor punch. The chimichuri sauce on the side is bright, even refreshing . . . excellent with the ribs, but we prefer to just take them in all by their lonesome at least for the first few bites. Yup, that damn good.

Our other fave from Nestor was his pork belly, so we made sure to order that again. It came out with the crispiest skin we have yet to taste elsewhere. After cracking through, the pork belly was the perfect mixture of fatty goodness and delicate meat. Savory, unctuous (there’s that word again), best effing pork belly you’ll ever have. And it’s been a couple weeks, so it’s not like that’s the post pork-gasm high talking.

Chicken. Yes, we ordered chicken, and here’s why: chicken is a great way to evaluate a BBQ joint. Most of the time, BBQ chicken comes out dry and bland oh, but definitely not at Mason Dixon. First up, the skin was so damn crispy, wow, and seasoned as hell with delicious flavor. The meat itself was juicy and had a nice level of smoke hitting it. Also a hit was the Jalapeno Cheddar Sausage, which had a spicy kick and a great juicy texture. 

We also ordered the brisket because, well, it’s a freakin BBQ requirement (and Kristien’s favorite). Again, Nestor does it up just right with some juicy cuts that are so delicate that they break up with just a little touch of the fork. Best brisket in Fairfield County? ABSOLUTELY. Best Brisket we’ve ever had? Quite possibly, and Kristien’s eaten at pretty much every BBQ joint in Austin, TX.

And, rounding out our meal we had an order of St. Louis Ribs. To be frank the jury is out on these guys. Granted, it was our last dish, we were meated out, and it was the end of the night for them, but when we took our first bites, they were a bit dry. Yes, the smoke ring on these were excellent, and yes, the taste of the ribs was on point, but they just weren’t as juicy and tender as everything else. At that point in the meal we had our backs against the meat wall, so we took a whole bunch of stuff home including those ribs . . . which is why the jury is still out. See, we reheated them for breakfast and lunch . . . and it’s like The St. Louis Ribs were resurrected from the dead. They were actually plenty juicy and meaty with no signs of dryness that we experienced at the restaurant. Perhaps we had tried the one rib on the plate that wasn’t as good as the others? We’re not sure, but we really dug them . . . and that rosemary punch was nice too.

Final Thoughts

Although Mason Dixon hasn’t been open for too long, Nestor’s vision and skill as a pitmaster and chef are legendary AF. To us, Mason Dixon Smokehouse draws a new line, a line of standard for BBQ in Connecticut that really, only maybe one other spot comes close to (that’s Bear’s Smokehouse in Hartford). It’s what BBQ should be . . . the kinda joint you can hit up for some wicked cocktails, nom worthy apps and sides, and decadent succulent meats. The total BBQ package, if you will, complete with the quintessential, kickass pitmaster! Prices were great to boot, with our total bill coming in lower than what we had expected. So, all in, what the hell are you waiting for? Make your reservation and get in there already.

Mason Dixon Smokehouse

Noms: 4.5

Cost: $$$

Address: 78 West Park Place

                  Stamford, CT

Phone: (203) 817-0392

Fancy Hank's BBQ

WASHINGTON-- George Washington stands atop a pastry case in Arlington, Virginia’s Bayou Bakery, holding a sickle and a sack of grains. The figurine, purchased at Washington’s Mount Vernon estate, belongs to restaurant owner David Guas. Seeing as the Mount Vernon grist mill supplies all the bakery’s cornmeal and grits, Guas figured a little tribute was in order. The historic mill uses corn from local Virginia farmers to create the freshly-ground ingredients Bayou Bakery cooks with. The partnership wasn’t instant-- after competing in a cornmeal hoecake bakeoff at the estate, Guas wanted more. “They didn’t have any delivery ideas, they didn’t have any idea of price, we just made it work, and now I physically go to Mount Vernon to the grist mill and pick up my cornmeal”, he says. While Bayou Bakery is covering both the local and historical bases, other area chefs are working to locally source the food they put on your restaurant table.

In a metropolitan area like D.C., finding farm-fresh produce can be difficult. Finding organic, locally grown food is even harder. However, to some chefs, going the extra mile for natural food is worth it-- for reasons more than taste. Partnerships between independent, family-owned farms and local restaurants are mutually beneficial: buying directly from farmers gives chefs the freshest food possible, and allows the producers to profit more than if they sold to retailers. Less than 2 percent of the American population works in agriculture, and many family-owned farms struggle to stay in business.

Thanks to increasing demand for organic, natural food, things are starting to look up for independent producers. Some restaurants form relationships with farms across the country. At District Commons in Foggy Bottom, the popular “Pig Board” features ham from Norwalk, Iowa. According to chef Aaron Daniels, La Quercia Farms’ high quality pork is worth the distance. “The fact that they even source the salt they use to cure the meat from right here in America, it just makes it such an uber local product,” he says. “It’s something we want to support, and it just wows our customers, so really it’s a win-win.”

For chef Andrew Evans, of Easton, MD.’s BBQ Joint, the differences between humanely raised, hormone-free meat and generic supermarket meat are clear. He wants you to imagine a rope. “Think about a rope as a muscle strand”, Evans says.  “If you have a whole bunch of strands of rope, they’re going to trap more water than a few bigger, fatter strands. If you dip a mop in a bucket of water it can hold a lot of moisture. if you dip three strands of rope in the water it’s not going to hold much.” Hormones used to speed up the growing process of mass-produced meat often result in tougher, less flavorful meat. To Evans, higher-quality proteins have a finer muscle development--multiple strands of rope-- and no other meat compares. As a barbecue pitmaster and a restaurant owner, he won’t serve anything else.

To some, sourcing food from multiple farms might be a hassle, but for Chef Guas, it’s a privilege. As someone who considers fresh, organically grown food a customer’s right, knowing when and where his produce is coming from is a big deal. Take, for example, his relationship with Pearson Farm, his pecan supplier. The Georgia family farm provides the nuts Guas uses in his desserts. “What I love about dealing with farmers and vendors like them is that there’s a date on the box, a harvest date, so you know [the nuts] are not just sitting in some warehouse... these guys are picking them and shelling them during the harvest, and we’re getting them a week or so later” says Guas, “you don’t often think about nuts as a fresh crop”.

At District Commons, Chef Daniels pays attention to the seasons. There are certain things the restaurant can’t buy seasonally, like lettuce, but the chefs work to include as much natural, small-batch produce as possible. “When you pop something in your mouth that’s cared for, that’s created by a small producer, you’re going to taste the difference easily”, he says.

Organic living is hugely popular, and attaching “all-natural” to a product makes it almost fly off the shelves. Most restaurants jump at the chance to advertise their sustainability-- so why is Guas so quiet about his?  “I think it’s more of an obligation that we have, rather than something to promote”, says Guas, “I can sleep at night knowing that I’m offering a quality but also a well-sourced, safe product.”

Shuttling around from market to market for organic, local food is a lot of work, but Guas is more than willing to do it. And he comes bearing gifts-- on Saturdays he can be found handing out Bayou Bakery Beignets to his frequent vendors. His relationships with the farmers are important. Not only does Guas receive the highest quality produce for his customers, he also supports the independent farmers that care about quality over quantity. As chef Daniels puts it, “the more you support those around you, the better for both the economy, and for your palate-- why not benefit both?”

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse (Edmonton) - DW#5

Ruth's Chris Steakhouse | 9990 Jasper Ave NW, Edmonton Atmosphere 4/5 | Food 4/5 | Amount $15, $25, $50 | Service 3.5/5 Tip: We didn't really get steak (that's what they are famous for), but judging on the quality of the prime rib sliders that we did get, I'd say they're worth the big bucks. Try: Again, can't really vouch for the steak because I've never had it, but the prime rib sliders were quite tasty. Consensus: Until I get the steak, I say we hold off on a REAL consensus. PS Our waiter was a little confused. Instead of giving us three prime rib sliders and two fish & chips, he came out with three fish and chips and two prime rib sliders. The fish and chips were quite greasy and heavy (was it ever a generous helping though), but the prime rib sliders (only three) were just enough for a quick, light, lunch. The restaurant has great ambiance, almost as fancy-esque as Hardware Grill.