Artist Inspiration: Mid-Century Textile Design, Bauhaus and California design.
I continually find Mid-Century design as a source of inspiration and wanted to consider both mid-century abstract and overall aesthetic of Bauhaus and California design.
California design is an amalgamation of styles and influences including Bauhaus, Scandinavia design, Japanese interiors and the Californian love of the outdoors. ‘In this abstract arrangement are the glowing colour, originality of treatment and simplicity of design that typify the California look.’(Kaplan and Adamson, 2011).
While researching abstract art and artists, I explored many textiles and textile artists of this period. Although an integral part of the Bauhaus and California design movement, women were very limited in the mediums they could choose to explore. In her book call, Paola Ardizzola describes how women were pushed into more ‘feminine’ pursuits. ‘Bauhaus female students were"channelled" towards those disciplines in which the collective imaginary mostly recognized the role of a woman. "We are absolutely against giving them an architectural education" wrote Walter Gropiusin 1921 about women. Therefore, Architecture was substantially forbidden to women.’ Ardizzola, Paola. (2019)
This is part of a much wider issue with both women in art and the distinction between ‘art’ and ‘craft’. Despite requiring a breadth of experience and expertise, working in any form of textiles is often considered inferior to classical art mediums. As a woman, an artist and a printmaker, this is a topic that resinates with me and is part of my insecurity around being seen as ‘legitimate’. In her essay, “The Dinner Party: Curator’s Overview,” Maura Reilly discusses this phenomenon:
‘Throughout the history of art, decoration and domestic handicrafts have been regarded as women’s work, and as such, not considered “high” or fine art. Quilting, embroidery, needlework, china painting, and sewing—none of these have been deemed worthy artistic equivalents to the grand mediums of painting and sculpture.’ - (Reilly, 2007)
Anni Albers
"Dotted" Weaving (Albers, 1959) Free-Hanging Room Divider (Albers, 1949) Wall Hanging (Albers, 1926)
One of the more (relatively) well known textile artists of the era was Anni Albers. Her experimental woven textiles used a wide range of materials, including the unconventional, such as cellophane, cord, lurex and acetate. It’s interesting to consider where such wallhangings fall within the spectrum of abstract art. Unlike traditional expressionism, these pieces could take weeks, months or even years to complete. Although seemingly random (“Dotted” Weaving for example) the woven fabrics would have required extensive planning.
(Tate, 2018)
Trude Guermonprez
(Photo of weaving instructor Trude Guermonprez in 1956,) Temple Rodef Shalom Ark Curtain Trial (Guermonprez, 1964)
Guermonprez produced experimental woven textiles mainly on commission basis. She worked at Black Mountain College along with Albers, teaching weaving. Her work was influenced by her immediate environment and I wanted to take this principle and apply it to my own work.
‘Guermonprez found inspiration in the California landscape, taking her pond farm weaving classes to the beach to record the structures and textures of rocks, shells, and driftwood, which would be incorporated into textile designs.’ (Kaplan and Adamson, 2011)
Gunta Stölzl
Wall Hanging (Stölzl, 1964), Tapestry "Black/White" (Stölzl, 1924)
Starting as a student at the Bauhaus School, Stölzl later became the only female master amongst her male peers. Her development of the weaving department lead to a change in style from pictorial textiles to modern industrial designs. As a mentor she taught many textile artists including Anni Albers.
I am particularly drawn to her Tapestry “Black/White”, The colours feel industrial mirroring the frequent use of concrete of Bauhaus architecture. The varied sizes of the weft and warp create images of windows, bricks and balconies.
Influence within my work
I wanted to pay homage to the women of Bauhaus and California design by using varied lines within my linoprint layer within my abstract print for Assignment Two. The geometric shapes and patterns within the woven fabrics, despite being reminiscent of buildings and windows, also feel spontaneous and quintessentially abstract.
References
Albers, A., 1926. Wall Hanging. [Mercerized cotton, silk].
Albers, A., 1949. Free-Hanging Room Divider. [Cellophane and cord].
Albers, A., 1959. "Dotted" Weaving. [Wool; compound weave].
Ardizzola, P. and Niglio, O., 2019. Women at the Bauhaus, reconsideration of the myth. Book Call. NA.
Guermonprez, T., 1964. Temple Rodef Shalom Ark Curtain Trial. [Woven silk, metalized plastic film wrapped around a viscose rayon core, and flat metalized plastic yarns].
Harvard Art Museums, 2019. Women of the Bauhaus. [video] Available at: <https://youtu.be/2ndKZUzmHZI> [Accessed 2 April 2021].
Kaplan, W. and Adamson, G., 2011. Living in a modern way - California design, 1930-1965. Cambridge, Mass: MIT Press, p.27.
Los Angeles County Museum of Art, 2011. Kay Sekimachi: California Design. [video] Available at: <https://youtu.be/3jK1fHlmTEg> [Accessed 2 April 2021].
1956. Photo of weaving instructor Trude Guermonprez. Portland Museum of Art, Haystack Mountain School of Crafts. Portland.
Reilly, M., 2007. The Dinner Party: Curator’s Overview. [online] Maurareilly.com. Available at: <http://www.maurareilly.com/pdf/essays/DinnerPartyEssay.pdf> [Accessed 28 March 2021].
Smith, T., 2014. Bauhaus weaving theory. Minneapolis: University of Minnesota Press.
Stölzl, G., 1924. Tapestry "Black/White". [Half-gobelin technique. Flatweave, partly with reversed harness Warp: mercerized cotton. Weft: wool, rayon and metal thread].
Stölzl, G., 1964. Wall Hanging. [Double-weave technique, Silk].
Tate Modern. 2019. Anni Albers – Exhibition at Tate Modern | Tate. [online] Available at: <https://www.tate.org.uk/whats-on/tate-modern/exhibition/anni-albers> [Accessed 27 March 2021].
Tate, 2018. How to Weave Like Anni Albers. [video] Available at: <https://youtu.be/pXd1e4vekZI> [Accessed 2 April 2021].
Troeller, J., 2020. Anni Albers (1899-1994) - Architectural Review. [online] Architectural Review. Available at: <https://www.architectural-review.com/essays/reputations/anni-albers-1899-1994> [Accessed 27 March 2021].














