#agility training

We had agility training after a very, very long time and the boys had so much fun.

Sammy trained with Luc and they did really amazing.

And Pino had his first agility training, means more than one hurdle like in rally-obedience and he did so well too.

I hope we can go more often now.

+ I did pictures from the agility group members: Sammy the Border Collie, Chewie the Aussie and Lotta the Appenzeller.

One of our training projects right now is threadles. I have found handling for threadles to be VERY hard. Ryker is very in tune with my body handling, where Aayla used to be more inclined to listen to Verbals despite my handling.

That is not to say that I think dogs struggling with that level of reactivity are bad dogs. Nor do I think they should be sequestered away in their homes and never allowed to be out in the world.

Heck I'm not even of the opinion that they shouldn't learn agility. Just that private lessons would benefit the dog more than a class setting while they are working through reactivity.

Because the thing is, agility is super stimulating for most dogs, whether participating or watching. Even more so if it's an intro class where the team is learning to navigate the equipment and handling. Additionally keeping the dog from going after others is stressful for everyone involved. And I just don't see it as a kind or fair setting to be introducing something as complex, and let's be honest - potentially dangerous - as agility.

I also don't think there's any shame in realizing that an agility class may be too much for where the dog currently is in working through reactivity and taking a step back. Dog training in all its flavors isn't always linear. But I do think it's important, for the people both handler and instructor, to ensure the dog is being set up for success even if it doesn't look the way we'd hoped it would.

If you’ve ever watched an agility competition, you know it’s basically a canine obstacle course. The dog must run through tunnels, leap over jumps, and weave through poles. But the dog isn’t working alone – this is a sport of exquisite teamwork. A successful run requires taking each obstacle in a certain order, and the dog relies on their handler to tell them what that is. That makes agility an exciting celebration of canine athleticism and the dog-human bond.

But is it right for you and your dog? Well, any purebred dog or mixed breed can participate. From Border Collies to Chihuahuas to Basset Hounds, all dogs compete in this sport. Or do you wonder if you’re athletic enough? Don’t be concerned; you don’t have to run as fast as your dog to be successful. Everyone is welcome. Read on and see how you can get started in this dynamic sport.

Agility Benefits for You and Your Dog

There are many benefits to participating in agility. For the dogs, there’s the exercise, the social aspect, and the feeling of having a job or a purpose. And working with their person (rather than just fetching a thrown ball) builds teamwork, trust, a deeper level of communication, and a stronger bond.

Dog agility benefits owners, too. Going to trials or even just classes gets people together with fellow dog people and is a great way to meet new friends. It’s also a fun way to get exercise. Plus, planning handling strategy and reading course maps work your brain like any other puzzles, and I’m sure I don’t have to tell you about all the studies that show how beneficial it is to spend time with dogs.

Is Agility Right for Your Dog?

Now you know how beneficial agility can be for your dog, but is your pet suited to the sport? Confident and happy-go-lucky dogs are going to have an easier time picking things up. But that doesn’t rule out other personalities. Even dogs with problem behavior can benefit because agility teaches them that there are rules in life and following those rules leads to great rewards.

With patient training, even anxious dogs can gain confidence and conquer their fears. After all, if they can run over a seesaw, the rest of the world seems less scary.

Agility training works great with a high-energy dog who tends to bite to get what she wants. Agility will teach her self-control and how to work for things she wants in a socially acceptable way. 

Even certain physical disabilities don’t have to keep your dog out of the ring. For example, deaf dogs are welcome to compete. And although jump height is normally based on the height of the dog (so a Papillon would be jumping a lower height than a Boxer), there’s a lower jump height available, called Preferred, for any handler who thinks that would be better for their dog. Many handlers with older dogs use that option.

And speaking of older dogs, as long as they are up to the challenge, they’re welcome in the ring, as well. Participating in agility will keep their bodies spry and their minds sharp. With any dog, be sure to ask your vet whether agility is a suitable activity. If you do start training, start slow and let the dog’s muscles build up.

A Sport for All Handlers

It might surprise you to know that agility participants range from seniors all the way down to kids. In fact, if a Junior competitor (handlers under 18 years of age) can control a dog, they can participate. You might think you have to keep up with your dog’s running speed, but that’s not the case. With careful planning of your movement through the course and distance training (teaching your dog to work away from your side), you can compete, regardless of your speed.

And disabilities don’t hold agility handlers back either. AKC gets all types of physical abilities from world-class athletes to, a woman in her eighties  competing. I’ve seen wheelchairs, oxygen tank backpacks, walkers/canes, and more.

Getting Started in Dog Agility

To get a taste of the sport at home, you can start training simple foundation skills and working with homemade obstacles like a large open box for a tunnel, or a hula hoop for a tire jump. There are also plenty of books and videos that walk you through training.

But there is no substitute for getting into an agility class. Find a local club and audit a class to see if the instructor’s teaching style suits you. Look for positive training techniques and lowered equipment for beginners. Full-size equipment should wait until your dog is comfortable and has mastered the basics.

We suggests going to local trials to become familiar with how the sport works. You’ll learn more if you leave your dog at home. Plus, an excellent way to learn is to volunteer – there are lots of jobs that don’t require experience, such as setting jump bars, and it gives you a great perspective of everything that goes into running a trial.

And remember, you don’t have to enter competitions to benefit from the sport. Not every dog will enjoy that kind of environment, and you might not want the pressure to perform in front of a crowd. Classes and a backyard course can provide all the fun, exercise, and challenge you need.

Basic Agility Moves

During a dog agility trial, your dog will be off-leash and free to run wherever they choose. This is where the bonding and teamwork come in. You can’t touch your dog, so using only cues and body language, you must direct them where to go because the order of the obstacles changes every time. It’s essential to communicate clearly with your dog, and they need to keep their eyes on you as much as possible.

Besides encouraging focus, it’s key to teach your dog to work on both your right and left sides. Most trick training is done with the dog right in front of the owner, so dogs learn this is a great place to be. After all, they get most of their treats in that position. For agility, you need to convince your dog to move beside you.

Start by rewarding them for sitting beside you. Then work toward moving, slowly at first, then building up to a run. It can help to use an object like a garbage can or tree as a guide and move in a circle around it. Be sure to go in both directions with your dog on the outside. Only put them on the inside (between you and the object) when they’ve mastered the skill. For an extra challenge, line up two objects and run around them in a figure-eight.

Another basic move is teaching your dog to go out in front of you to tackle an obstacle. You won’t always be able to keep up and run by their side, so they need to understand working at a distance. An easy way to build this skill is by using a low jump (a broomstick balanced on some books will do) and a favorite toy or little bag of treats.

Start by throwing the toy or bag over the jump so your dog can chase after it, jumping the obstacle as they go. Once he understands the game, you can add a verbal cue like “Go” and start adding distance a little bit at a time. Don’t forget to play this game with your dog starting on both your right and left sides.

These basic moves should get you started at home. The more difficult handling is best taught in a group or private class. Your instructor will pick up on any subtle body language mistakes you might be making, such as turning a shoulder.

Basic Agility Equipment

An agility course is made up of a series of obstacles, usually 14-20, depending on the class and level of competition. The big, ramp-style obstacles are collectively known as the contact obstacles because they all have “contact zones” (usually painted a bright yellow) that the dog must touch with at least one toenail when descending. The following list explains the basic agility equipment you will find in the ring:

Jumps are made of a bar between two stands. The dog must leap over the bar without knocking it down.

Tire jumps are donut-shaped rings suspended in the air. The height of the tire is based on the height of the dog, who must jump cleanly through the opening.

Open tunnels are long, canvas tubes. They can be either straight or curved, and the dog must enter at one end and exit at the other.

Weave poles are a series of six to 12 upright poles spaced out along a straight line. The dog must enter to the right of the first pole and weave through the others without missing a pole.

Seesaws or teeters are shaped like a teeter-totter at the playground. The dog must run up the side, touching the ground, then ride the seesaw down the other side as it pivots with their momentum.

Dog walks have an up ramp at one end, a flat, elevated middle section, and a down ramp at the other end.

A-frames are made of two broad ramps hinged together into a peak. The dog must scale the up side, scramble over the top, and descend to the contact zone.

You can purchase most of this equipment online for backyard use. Or you can find DIY plans on the web and build it yourself. Finally, you can make simplified versions by adapting things you already have lying around like tomato stakes for weave poles or a blanket over two chairs for a tunnel.