I was lining up, two steps from the store front, one foot on the sidewalk, about arms length from the tip-jar. It was just a tiny bar, and not in the common alcohol-establishment sense. In the literal, etymological sense. It was just a wooden bar, one high-chair in front of it, a large awning window above it, hiding a closet-sized space for a barista, at most two, to concoct a carefully brewed cup of cappuccino.
If you walked in straight, facing the store-space, the bar was to the left, and roughly 7 feet to the right, a chair- more like a wooden box, really- and two high tables that tightly fit in this roughly 100 square foot space. Deeper in wouldn’t be more room for the cafe. On the right end was a narrow corridor that led into a self-service laundromat, some claw machines; and directly in the middle was a staircase that led down into Solo, Wan Chai. Nestled on the left, with wooden frames “COFFEE” written on the side vertically, and one atop horizontally, sits Le Petit Salon.
I was second in line. The lady was having a good chat with Benny, the veteran barista of LPS. I wasn’t in a rush. This was the kind of place to take your time with. Given the space, it’s not a place to linger, but strangely it’s also not a place to hurry. I sat myself and Sephy down at the wooden box and sipped coffee waiting for my girl, who was making her way home. Suddenly I see Benny pointing out the side window of the cafe, cuts the lady off mid-sentence, and remarks “喂,抄牌,” which translates to “hey, cops are writing up parking tickets.” That’s the kind of joint this was. That’s the kind of guy Benny was. Neighborhood cat, looking out for you. I couldn’t help but bust out laughing. It was a good moment. It was a happy moment. I love seeing these glimpses of humanity, where we are individuals in this collective, and we keep an eye for another.
Benny and I became friendly. I’d walk Sephy in the mornings. We’d turn right, another right, down the block, then cross left at the intersection, then a few steps and Sephy would turn into the open store. No doors, not even in the evenings; people need to go in for the laundry. Pup would hop right in, and Benny the barista would say “喂. 大 Cap?” By now he knows, my drink of choice is a large cappuccino. I like it. Just enough of a flair, but not too much of a fuss. A cappuccino is not a latte. It’s not just putting some milk over espresso. There needs to be a cushion on the top of the drink. A foamy cap, if you will, that adds an airy texture to every sip you take until, at the end, you’re left with some bubbles on the bottom of the coffee cup. That’s a good cup of cappuccino that Benny makes.
I’d sit at the bar, maybe just for 5 minutes, and we’d chat while he makes me my coffee. It was quite exquisite watching the guy work his craft. It’s fast, but it’s clear. It would be precise, while carefree. A whole conversation would go by and he’d hand me my drink. If it wasn’t too busy we may chat a little longer while Sephy stays on my lap, with her two front paws at the bar like she’s waiting for hers. If there’s a line behind me, I’d make my way to the wooden box and the two high tables, and Sephy would sit next to me while we wait for ol’ girl to make her way to us. If weren’t waiting, then we’d just grab the coffee and go on our way to another adventure.
Le Petit Salon translates, in French, to the little living room. A “living room” was described as such because it would be a room that was alive, that hosts, entertains - living. This little cafe offers that same feeling. It doesn’t boast maximalism; no TV, no magazines, books; but it’s simply a space that’s intimate, that’s warm, that forces people who dares walk up to it to have a conversation. I think that’s what it is, too, that the people who enter Le Petit Salon have to have the courage to make that approach. It demands you to ask for a coffee. No QR codes, no tablet menus, but truly look the maker, the artist, the creator, the barista in their face and ask for a coffee. The nature of this space carefully whittles away the ones who do not fit the essence, not in any intimidating manner, or explicit exclusion, but only because Le Petit Salon is what it is. There’s no other way it can be. It is full of passion, but placed in a tiny store, sharing it with two other establishments. In this way, I feel the essence of Hong Kong. A small little space full of life, movement, energy.
LPS first opened up in 2017, Benny said. He’d been with the cafe for 8 years; a veteran of the joint. The one Sephy and I have been accustomed to is located at Lockhart and Marsh. It is considered Wan Chai, but it’s where Causeway Bay begins to bleed through into Wan Chai. Time Square is only a block away. But technically there’s another LPS in the CWB neighborhood, so this one is called the Lockhart branch. LPS has 7 franchises: Stanley, inside the market; Tin Hau shop #1 at the Apple Mall; Causeway Bay 5 Hoi Ping road, opposite Lee Garden Three; Wan Chai, Lockhart road; Sai Ying Pun, Eastern street; Sham Shui Po, inside Dragon Center; Xiamen, The Bank Center, inside the lobby. Each of these have a flavor of its own.
Benny explained that he would go to the branches, discover the neighborhood culture and cater the beans, the roast level, the coffee identity at each of them. Sham Shui Po is also one that I have gone to occasionally, and using that as an example he describes the difference between Lockhart and Sham Shui Po. In Wan Chai, he said, people like to drink nuttier, more chocolatey coffees. The area has more offices, and office workers are not seeking to taste specialty, or, more complex profiles of flavors, like floral, fruity, acidic notes. They tend to look for bolder flavors that “standard” coffees offer. Sham Shui Po patrons desire more floral, special blends that express more layers. He said these details are developed over time as a branch opens in a neighborhood. LPS takes care to build around its surroundings.
“Good coffee is meant to be shared” it writes above the awning. Benny told me just the same. This cafe desires to shine a spotlight on what the art of coffee can be in Hong Kong. Sitting on the right side of the bar were 3 packs of Phoenix coffee beans, a local brand they were featuring the month of September; next to it, one large pack of Le Petit Salon’s own roasted beans. He told me their beans were produced by a former LPS employee who started his own bean production called Coffee Engineering which roast beans. While there’s passion, Benny does hope Hong Kong’s perspective of baristas can elevate, to grow the culture of coffee in the city where people can become professional baristas, and have the income to continue on elevating the culture of coffee in Hong Kong.