Chaotic DIY's are kind of my jam

Yeah so at some point I thought, you know what I'm going to do instead of studying for my finals? Bra sewing. So I took a deep dive into bra patterns, underwires, lace and elastic.

There are a few patterns so many people rave about online, the Harriet bra, the Black Beauty bra, the Marlborough bra etc. There are so many small pattern companies specialised in lingerie patterns and it was a little intimidating when choosing one. They're also not cheap. A bra pattern is easily 15-20$ and I get why, but I'm a little cheap when it comes to patterns. This is however not a project I wanted to draft my own cups for. The Maya bra is a free pattern, but it's not a style of bra I wear often.

I don't have big boobs (I wear a 65D/30D) and like, a lot of the home-sewing bra patterns offer a lot of coverage and support. Which is great! But it's not what I wanted. So when I saw this nice plunging/push-up bra pattern, and people online were like "it's not a beginner friendly, buy when you have some bra-making experience" I went like "that sounds like a perfect pattern for me, a beginner". Of course I bought the paper pattern of the Merckwaerdigh PBH30. And the Cambia bra pattern because it intrigued me.

Then it was time to get lost in all the kinds of elastics and fabrics I would need. I caved and just bought a bra kit; shipping prices can variable and I didn't like the kits the Dutch sites offered. I did however like this black lace set by smallbobbins.be.

And then I started on a test bra, made out of some cotton voile and purple lace and lycra I had in my fabric stash. I had such a hard time with the instructions; even though they're available in mine and Merckweardigh's native language, this pattern is very... ehm brief in the instructions. Thank the gods for the wayback machine and clothing engineer's tutorial on how to insert the removable padding pocket. After that things made way more sense, but I still wrote my own instructions + illustrations (message me if you're interested). I decided halfway through my mock up, that I felt confident enough and that I would make a 'mock up' out of the bra set. I used a different piece of bra tule that was included (it was a shade lighter). The cup pieces were so small that I suspected I could make at least 2 bra's out of it if I threw some strap elastic, rings and sliders in that I already had in my stash. I ripped the hook and eye closure of a too small bra and reused it.

I made the B70, like the measurements table told me to do. I allowed myself some experimenting with a one-piece lace cup fabric (not my fave look). It went pretty well! Until I used a zigzag stitch to topstitch the power mesh to the picot elastic and the black thread on the beige power mesh showed all the missed stitches of my machine. It's not pretty at all. I hate ripping out seams that are positioned well, but I do want to redo this after I do some much needed maintenance and timing management on my machine, before I start zigzagging my 'official' version of the bra.

The wires, even though they're push up wires, are a little too big, but I've ordered shorter ones.

It's probably an unfinished list because I must have missed some little projects. Bonus section: did I actually finish the project or does it still need some finishing?

January

The Gordon Hoodie by Mood. I used a fleece fabric and some string I had somewhere. I really just wanted to try out the pattern and if I would like a cropped hoodie. Basically: don't use a non-stretch fabric for the sleeves or cuffs, but overall a good pattern. I don't think a cropped hoodie is for me though. Fully hand sewn.

The Serena top by Sew swimmingly. Unfortunately she stopped overall so the pattern isn't available to buy anymore... but I bought it just in time (this is a hint)... so send a message if you want some information on it?. I made a mock up out of a (cheap) lilac lycra and some (cheap) lilac lace for the back 'black piece'. I don't have a picture of my lilac version, but here are the pictures of sew swimmingly. There will be pictures of a black version here somewhere.

February

Or: the start of my 1860s/cinderella/Sisi crossover dress. I might make a separate post about this.

1860s corset. I made a few mock up versions over december 22 to January and I settled on this pattern (free). I printed it at 103% and added a little over 6 cm from the waist up to make sure it wasn't a underbust corset and made no further adjustments. I have a ±5-8 cm lacing gap when I wear it.

Hoopskirt: I ordered a hoop skirt but it arrived as a completely different shape than the pictures showed, so I removed all the boning, made casings and in the end put all the hoops and tapes together by hand. The tapes are a mix of brown bias binding I had laying around and some cotton strips.

Layered petticoat for the 1860s project: It's scraps of tule, organza and mesh curtains sewn on in layers to go over my hoop skirt (finally a project I can use all my scraps for), sewn on the original fabric of the hoop skirt (it was a little too small, so I just added a strip of fabric to make it wider: it's not meant to be pretty, it's meant to be functional).

Organza petticoat for over the 1860s project to make it pretty. and add some more volume to the bottom.

March

1860s skirt.

1860s Overskirt out of this crystal-effect organza bc I wanted the lower skirt to be multi functional.

Fabric roses (over 50 in multiple sizes).

1860s bodice. (I drafted this myself the evening of the ball, I had to rush)

April

My dad requested some sort of alpaca cheek mask for a client of his. So I tried something? Didn't quite work out in the end.

Atonement dress: my friends convinced me it was a good idea to try to recreate it for a gala. It was a pain in my ass, I did it though. I used a very thin and slippery green charmeuse I had bought for a lining for another project (and it ripped so easily into ladders (like thighs). 2/10 experience). I bought skin toned tricot lining to line the dress with and make me able to wear it without flashing everybody. I used the lining to make a 'mock-up' / lining because I didn't want to make a paper pattern or buy one.

Finished my green velvet dress after like 3 years.

Swimsuit: my second ever, bc my mom wears my 1st one and she lost it and she was about to go on holiday the next morning for her 25th wedding anniversary with my dad. So I sewn one in like 1,5 hour at 10 pm so she could swim. The pattern I used is Poppy by Edgewater Avenue. I absolutely love this pattern, no pictures of the actual swimsuit though.

Made a velvet-flower print pillowcase for my grandma.

May

Made a black version of the Serena top. Added a little bit of elastic to the waist so it would roll up a little less. I get so many compliments on this one

My mom-jeans ripped at the knees. I don't like ripped knees. so I sewn them roughly together, painted some flowers (bc I know how incredibly slow I am with embroidery) and started embroidery. Guess you can't really call this a sewing project but it's still here. I wore it to the Elton John concert.

June

I mocked up a Bustier dress Pattern by Chikafrik Patterns on Etsy. Wasn't what I wanted. But I got a top out of it

I made a milkmaid-inspired top out of a polkadot cotton fabric. I had just enough to cut this out. I would've loved it if I had like 1 or 2 cm's more for the hem but really like the top as is.

Jersey midi dress with satin binding. Drafted the pattern myself. It's one of my favourite dresses ever. Next time I will move the straps in maybe 1 or 2 cm's because it's a little tight around my arms. But overall very comfortable, I even trimmed sheep hoofs in it (don't do what I do and wear flip-flops).

Juli

Mock up shorts; it's an adjusted pattern from Wide Leg Pants by Peppermint Patterns (it's free or you can choose what you pay!). Here's a tutorial on how to do it.

Mock up of the Wilder Top by Mood. Combined, these make me feel like Indiana Jones or a Jungle Explorer or like a sexy zoo keeper.

August

I made a purple chiffon version of the Wilder Top for my mom... kinda?

September

Made the "Wide Leg Pants" shorts in green linen!

Started on a red, short version of the black jersey dress.

I made a top out of my leftover fabric. I used the top of #UP1020 Jumpsuit by Unfettered patterns (it's a free jumpsuit pattern). I lowered the neckline and made it square. Didn't have enough fabric for a facing so I just serged and sewn down the seam. It shows a little of some of my lacy bra's at the neckline and I must say I quite like that look.

Started on a linnen beige skirt with some pearlescent buttons, didn't use a pattern.

Made the Elliot Front Tie top by Coolstitches out of a printed cotton. Lined the upper parts with a cotton voile, because the printed fabric was a little to see through.

October

Started on a green viscose blouse. The pattern is blouse #2310 by Lekala. It's however way longer than the technical drawing saw.

I mended some sweaters of both of my brothers and some shirts of my dad's.

Started on a 1860s blouse, I used the TV449 as a base and drafted my own collar piece. I used pearlescent buttons and used a lace edge. I made it all by hand.

Started on a 1860s jacket from TV449 (1861 Revere Bodice). This is also all made by hand

Made a mockup of suit pants for my twin brother. Burda 6871.

Took in the linen skirt.

November

Made a wearable mock-up of the suit pants. I had so many fit problems and my twin getting annoyed with how many times he had to do a fitting so in the end they didn't quite fit right and it's not a wearable mockup. I'm going to start from scratch with the pattern again.

Made a blanket hoodie and was inspired by the Billie Wearable blanket. It's so ugly but it's so handy and warm. It's nmade out of two layers at the sleeves and throughout the body. All out of 'scrap' fabric.

December

Satin blouse for NYE, made out of a cheap polyester satin I was going to use as a lining but then I didn't?. Fully hand sewn. The pattern is blouse #2394 by Lekala and I had the hardest time figuring it out, and still don't think I've figured it out. I think I might replace the buttons with smaller ones in the future because the holes on these pearl beads (yes, not buttons, it's what I had on hand) are a little too big for my liking.

Worked on the green viscose blouse

The bonus I promised - the unfinished projects of 2023 list

I dyed a white cotton dotted dress red, it's the Marina Dress by NH patterns but without the gathering. It needs a hem and some adjustments in the skirt

The hoodie blanket needs a hem and the cuffs need finishing.

The linen skirt needs a hem

The red jersey dress needs some adjusting... at the top and needs binding for the bottom.

The TV449 is unfinished

The green blouse need a hem

But they loved that I messaged them and mailed it to them even though we hadn't spoken in like 2 years.

Ft. pictures of bad quality

The pattern is "Root for Ravenclaw" and free!

So after doing this, I made a version/two copies for the lovely @brainless-scarecrow​.

This took me a little while (read ±6 months) to actually get to, but I did it!

I might have gotten a bit arrogant when it comes tot he fake leathers I have, because I never had trouble with heat foiling. Until this navy leather. It was a nightmare, it melted or the foil didn’t stick at all. The one good thing is that I found out about this when I was foiling a small Red, White and Royal Blue’s emails booklet as a birthday gift to a friend. Since I already had wrapped the boards in the fake leather (something I didn’t want to redo) I tried using the pressure-activated gold foil from cricut and to my relief it worked! I used a varnish to keep if from rubbing off (in the hope that the fake leather will not react weirdly to that either).

As for the results:

Captain Fantastic and the Pineapple King 

30,478 Words || Teen and Up

Cover by didbuckygetaplum, pineapple by me. 

The Ungraceful Act of Falling

149,516 Words || 25 Chapters || E

Covers by me, inspired by this art and this art. 

Endpapers 

Bound two of my favourite (Stucky) fanfics by @brainless-scarecrow! Thank you for letting me bind them.

I tried my hand at some (fake) leather and hot foiling. Really happy with the pineapple and the art on the back, I should’ve gone with a little bigger font for the spine to increase the readability. Also experimented with some spine material, next time I’m gonna try something different to get some crisper edges on the top and bottom. I even did the headbands in pineapple colours! 

Overall really chuffed with the result (I don’t think I’ve managed to cut the edges of my text block this straight and neat so far)! 

Read the masterpieces themselves here:

Captain Fantastic and the Pineapple King  30,478 Words || Teen and Up

The Ungraceful Act of Falling 149,516 Words || 25 Chapters || E 

Who doesn’t love a good 50′s inspired dress? Best part: It has pockets. I can easily fit my wallet in there.

I interlined with organza and have never done as much hand sewing and basting as I did with this dress. Exhibit A:

I made some Cherry stickers this year

One of the few times I actually didn’t hack anything when using a pattern: I just lengthened the top by 1,5 cm because the waist fell a bit high on me (and I inherited the exact body shape from my mom).

Pattern is by Nh patterns - the marina dress

Fabric:

Polyester crêpe (2 m)