âHow long?â yells the chef at the pass, to the brigade of South Africa. âWe have new demands to meet, expectations to fulfil and killer dishes to send out!â - By Jodi-Ann Palmer
New. Fresh. Authentic. Flavourful. Diverse. South African consumers demand
to experience the colourful and fresh poke bowls of Hawaii, flavourfully balanced ramen from Japan, and expertly cooked eggs in shakshuka from Jerusalem.
Globalisation has us spinning off the plate as the South African culinary community breaks down boundaries by interacting with the different cultures from all over the ever-changing globe. With access to kitchens such as Noma, Osteria Francescana and 11 Madison Park on social media, a local chef gains exposure like no other has done before him or her ten years ago.Â
Rene Redzepi posts a picture of a razor clam and before you know it, razor clams are a hot commodity. The ordinary does not cut it any longer - not even with the sharpest Japanese knife. International influence on the local market has drastically changed the way we dine, the way we prepare food and the expectation of the South African consumer.
South African food has long been known as a collaboration of cultures: Zulu, Xhosa, Shona, Lebanese, Jewish, Italian, Portuguese, Chinese, Indian, Greek, English and Boer traditions are living in One groot potjie pot over a rather
turbulent flame. History has dictated our heritage, allowed us to absorb knowledge from our families, communities and people with whom we share our time.
As we draw inspiration from our individual heritage we begin to find similarities in the way we cook and the ingredients we use, often crossing paths with someone in the industry who shares the nostalgia of a potato salad and a braai chop.
With that being said, the culinary industry is boiling over with information on different cultures, cuisines and ingredients from around the world. We now have access to information and ingredients which, up until a few years ago, we may not have known existed.
âHow long?â shouts the chef again. Our heritage, as South Africans, is an ideal starting point for any international trend. (The trouble is that sometimes it must be âinternational firstâ.) There is something democratic about the way we combine flavours and cooking methods from the different cultures of our country and the world. To braai is as South African as Queen Elizabeth is British. It defines our identity as citizens. Open fire cooking is an example of a South African trend that is truly and irrevocably ours. Yet, we had to wait for the
âtrend trainâ to burst into flames before we begun to see cool, local, open fire restaurants such as La Boqueria hitting our streets.
Why is open fire cookery relevant?
1. It is the essence of who we are as a nation â coal runs through our veins and in our souls we have flames. Name one South African, in fact name one South African chef who does not braai. Ever. Not even once. This is our nationâs
common ground, our personality.
2. The flavours â I am not even going to elaborate because we all know the taste I speak of, that smell which drifts through the air on a sunny Sunday afternoon.
3. Versatility â cooking with an open flame changes the game. Smoking, grilling directly on the coals and directly in the ash; the limits are merely the boundaries of your imagination.
4. Colour and texture â caramelised; crispy yet succulent and tender on the inside, juicy.
5. Functional and practical â high heat means quick cooking, or cook low and slow to develop sauces and different cuts of meat. The above is not new to us at all.Â
The streets of Fordsburg are lined with Pakistani cooks and their open fire grills. Steers have coined the phrase âFlame-grilled, it just tastes betterâ and Spur has long been a South African âfire house.â (Say Yoh Yoh Yoh!) Using the open flame for centuries, one might argue it was in fact an African trend to begin with.Â
Meat and flame enthusiasts have been sharing a meal under the light of the stars since before our generation could eat. Cooking with fire is more than preparing a meal to consume. The act is social, engaging and rewarding. If you have a woodfired pizza oven in your backyard, a Weber or a couple of bricks and an old grid you understand the joy of cooking on an open flame.â
We have heard it all before. What is it about this trend that makes our kitchens come alive? Besides the flames of course. Shall we take it a step further? Just let the coals develop. Use embers to flavour oils or mayonnaise, creams and milk to make ice creams and desserts. Combine activated charcoal into your sour dough starter or using the âsmoky-burnt flavourâ in tartare and cocktails.Â
Break down the bold flavour of the braai and use it in a way that elevates and adds value to other dishes. This is how you use a trend: grab it, take it apart, study and reinvent. Braaiing is merely the fire lighter; the international open-fire trend has us all set alight. The key lies in figuring out why it is a trend, how we merge what we know already, what we are learning and what the demand from the consumer is.Â
Staying ahead of the trends is vital for restaurants and individual chefs to remain relevant in an industry that can be ruthless and tough. With increasing numbers of people opting for the world of all things culinary, it is important to be well-researched and knowledgeable by staying ahead of the times. Not all trends
are here to stay. Ask yourself about longevity, practicality, and resources before implementing a trend. However, when you find yourself gleaming with pride at
your charcoal sourdough, wood fire bone marrow and chargrilled tomahawk let it be said:
âService!â
âTwo minutes!â replies the line cook.Â