Working on finishing up my Malediction army. I've got one more of the purple guy, three priests, and an assassin type fellow to go, then I'm done with the full set for Vorendal!
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Working on finishing up my Malediction army. I've got one more of the purple guy, three priests, and an assassin type fellow to go, then I'm done with the full set for Vorendal!

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Finished all but one of the Dead at Arms (gotta reprint the missing member) and all of the Dead Eye Archers. The Data System Glow paint from army painter is such a fun vivid color, I love how their eyes came out.
Does the type of undercoat for miniatures matter? I was watching an army painter tutorial on base coating and they talked about only needing to put down a white coat and then speedpaints work great on top of that. They're right, to an extent, also depending on the paint, but I found that doing the Slap Chop white highlight over black and then applying speed paints adds more depth. To experiment with it I used the same speedpaint red on these two minis and I definitely like the depth of color on the Tim Curry devil miniature better.
It was pretty sure it would be better, but I always like doing little experiments to see it with my own eyes.
Those look great! I've never tried slapchop with speedpaint but I agree that devil has a much sharper contrast, that's a solid effect. I've played around with them some experimenting with colored base coats and layers, and from what I found speed paints are a tint, a lot like alcohol inks combined with washes. They settle much more than inks and they darken the raised bits much more than washes, but that lets you do some fun stuff with them as well.
The more speedpaint over a specific section, whether through pooling or multiple coats, the darker and more tinted it will be. That means that as long as you start with bright light colors the base coat will shine through, though it can very quickly get too dark and end up very muted. (Though that's not terrible if you plan to go back and highlight over the base coat after) Watering down the speedpaint will let you apply a coat that tints it more lightly, and applying multiple coats will let you make a darker, more heavily tinted shade.
This guy is a good example of the shades. He's essentially monochrome, painted only using forest sprite, but the mouth is watered down, the arms are one coat, and the armor is multiple coats. I'll still go over with another coat of dark green acrylic on the armor to smooth the transition from the highlights to the shadows, but it gives a good base to start from, in the style of slapchop.
Color wise, I've been using mummified grime over different colors to turn bright base coats into unified muted pallets.
The guy on the right is the shade of pale winter blue I started the other two out as, before tinting them to give them a dark blue grey undertone to their skin. I dry brushed on some pure light grey for highlights but I think you can still see the cool blue shining through.
It's subtle, but I think it was a really fun experiment!
Objective Markers for Malediction. Known as Husks, these are the remains of the previous wielders of ancient artifacts, ones that can be equipped once the husk is captured!
I tried for a "Glowing from Within" look for these, shading from orange to gold and dark to light purple. My battle partner is working on the remaining two and will be going for a red and blue theme for theirs!
And that's the Malediction: Deathshroud Mire terrain more or less done! Might reprint the bottom left since I forgot to adjust the quality settings before printing, but everything is more than serviceable. I'm excited to see that on the battlefield!

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Just about done with these two pieces of the Deathshroud Mire terrain for Malediction. Was originally a little disappointed with the design compared to the fantastical magitech design of the Starcast Halls or the gorey and unnerving Noxious Fleshgardens, but now that I've got this tree painted up? It's looking pretty awesome and unsettling- albeit a little busy.
Still might go over the vines on it and tint them green, but I love the transition between dark to pale, bonelike wood. I feel it really emphasizes the organic spinal design.
And there we go! The vines made a surprising amount of difference I think- they give the eye something to focus on so the shape feels less busy
Just about done with these two pieces of the Deathshroud Mire terrain for Malediction. Was originally a little disappointed with the design compared to the fantastical magitech design of the Starcast Halls or the gorey and unnerving Noxious Fleshgardens, but now that I've got this tree painted up? It's looking pretty awesome and unsettling- albeit a little busy.
Still might go over the vines on it and tint them green, but I love the transition between dark to pale, bonelike wood. I feel it really emphasizes the organic spinal design.
Working on some terrain for Malediction, the Deathshroud Mire. Experimented with priming everything in a dark green to give it a cohesive murky, foggy undertone then drybrushing colors over the top. Still more detail to do, but I think it's looking good!
That's my first seeker for Malediction done; the hero unit which you build your army around and generally the most powerful unit in your deck!
Vorendal the Dreadheart is a brutal in your face hero who uses expendable undead to ensure he can lock down his foes and go ham on them. Highly recommend for new players!
Finished a pair of Stitched Corpses for Malediction! A pair of basic units in the undead faction, I tried to make these look well preserved rather than rotting shamblers. The stitches are wide enough I decided they made more sense as staples like they use post autopsy.
The detail on these models is phenomenal though. If you look closely at the one on the left you can see the buttonholes on his rags.

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My next project is going to be terrain for the Malediction skirmish game. MTG meets kill team, but all of the decks come with a code that gets you stls for all the miniatures in the set. If you have a 3d printer, you can get everything you need to build an army for $30.
This particular piece is a Starcast Hall piece for the Conclave of the Spheres faction. It came out remarkablely well for being filament printed.
Finally finished the Melinoe model! The last picture is a side by side with my friend's version of it. It was interesting to see how our color choices differed.
My latest project: a statuette of Melinoë from hades 2. First time I've done something this large and it's taken a While to get anywhere with.
More Unmatched minis! Black Panther, Black Widow, and the Winter Soldier from the King and Country set.
Got a pair of Jet Infantry units done, the jet trail effects were really satisfying to paint. Wet blending for the flames, then light air brushing for the smoke

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Just stumbled onto your blog due to those absolutely lovely little Scorpion tanks. You're an incredible painter! My quick question is that I've been getting pretty interested in 3D printing miniatures lately, and I wanted to know what printer you used to get such clean and fine detail like those Scorps? Any recommendations on equipment / settings / material for a complete beginner?
Hey thanks! Glad you liked them. 😄
As far as printers go, mine is actually a (relatively) older model, the Anycubic Photon- so the majority of printers should be able to hit at least this quality, assuming that they, like mine, are Resin printers.
There are two main types of printing; Resin and Filament- Filament is easier to use, more durable, and can be a wider variety of of materials, everything from rubber to wood. However, it's pretty dreadful for fine details- it has very distinct layer lines even in the best cases and tends to turn anything as small as a mini face into a blobby mess.
Resin, while a little more fragile, prints high enough quality that you can get exactly what you see on the screen at resolutions that need a magnifying glass to spot differences with. HOWEVER. Liquid Resin is a messy, toxic mass of chemicals that requires a respirator and rubber gloves to be in the same room as.
If you want to print anything finely detailed, resin is the way to go- I'd recommend googling the best budget resin printers and deciding from there, but do some research on how to safely work with resin and make sure you've got a place you can set it up before you make the purchase.
Scorpion Light Tanks, 3d printed and painted. An excellent bit of practice for my edge highlighting! I feel like I could have made the letter designation look more official but it'd be diminishing returns to fight with it.