Gaz, Matt & Roy

Kyoto

We met up with Charles and Sayaka who took us to see the highlights of Kyoto. First on the agenda was Nishiki markets. It was authentic and we sampled just about everything including live fish. they treated us to blue fin tuna sashimi. The fatty meat had a soft texture with a rich taste, you can see why the Japanese go gaga for it. Sayaka bought the most expensive but out of this world delicious punnet of high grade Japanese strawberries. without exaggerating they were obviously grown by angels and handpicked by the gods.

The first temple was Kinkaku-ji or better known as The Golden Pavilion. It was remarkable. The walls are painted in gold, the best way to describe the Pavilion is that the photos looked worse with a filter #nohedidnt

Next was the largest temple. Kiyomizu-dera. This temple, built on a mountain side has a natural spring where water flows into a drinking area. Here you wash your hands to cleanse your body and drink the water to cleanse your soul.

Finally we saw the “Orange stick temple” (Fushimi inari Shrine) it is made up of thousands of orange logs that form passageways.

Hong Kong We hadn't planned to go to Hong Kong, but booked a cheap flight there from China. We had a local friend, who is just so happens to be Roy's god-sister, Bowie. She showed us around and introduced us to some of her good friends. We met Frankie on our first night and he took us out for some street food that we regard as one of, if not the best meals we have had throughout Asia. The food is cooked on the street then brought into the sitting area. We topped of this meal with a big bottle of Chivas Regal and for a moment relived the Chung Experience like kings.

Bowie took us to the local hot spots and we played beer pong in a night club. The night life is absolutely cranking, and we spent a lot of time nursing hangovers!

We stayed at the infamous Chungking Mansion as it was the cheapest place in Hong Kong. Notorious for violence and drugs, there is even a book written about it! At the time of booking we had no idea and it turned out we didn't experience anything too bad so we got lucky I guess!

Xi'an

Xi'an, the city known for its extensive history and excavation site of the terracotta warriors!

We arrived at 3am (see top photo of Roy a.k.a Smegal limping behind the pack) after some poor planning and a 12 hour train ride. Knowing we had only two days to explore we set out to see the Shaan Xi museum to get understanding of the history of the city and the Terracotta Army before visiting them the following day. That night we headed off to a Muslim Quarter. Filled with amazing food and cheap goods we didn't need, we left having over eaten and a bag of knick knacks we didn't need. We were all in agreement that these markets had been the best yet.

The Terracotta Army. Another UNESCO site to tick off the list. It was incredible to see the excavation sites over the 8000 warriors.we also had the chance to set how restoration takes place and to get up close and see the individual details in each warrior. That evening we headed back to the markets, ate to much and waddled back to our hostel feeling fat and guilty.

Beijing 

Turns out 24 hours in a hard seat is a really, really shit experience.  Our dirt cheap cattle class tickets got us in a overcrowded cart with Chinese folk sleeping all over the floors and hocking everywhere. There was a lady who made herself a bed on the sinks in the toilet.  

We pulled into the station eager to get to our hostel and explore Beijing.  Surprisingly, the city is really clean and the people are friendly. We had been told to expect people pooping on the street and being generally difficult to deal with, which was simply not the case.  The metro was clean and efficient and we thought was on equal pegging with the one we used in Singapore.  One thing that was at first quite charming but soon became annoying was the seed bloom, where clouds of floating white seed wisps would blow through the city.  It looked almost like snow, until it blew up our noses and into our eyes. 

The two must visit attractions in Beijing were the forbidden city and the Great Wall.  The forbidden city was impressive but the hoards of Chinese tourists made it difficult to enjoy and view thoroughly. Tienanmen Square was actually more pleasant, a wide open space with monuments to the people of China, chairmen Mao and communism.  

On to Hainan! 

Hainan is an island at the Southern point of China, it’s where wealthy Chinese people go to vacation without leaving China. We checked into a plush hotel where rooms started at $375 a night (up to now we if we had to pay over $15 for accommodation we would be livid). We ate like kings and drank Hennessy like water while dining on exotic animals.

We looked at one of the brothers’ personal Museum and had a lunch that stood out from the rest. The reason it was unique is because no Hennessy was drunk. Instead we drank what could only be described as sweet petrol mixed with vivid. We were told this wine was extremely expensive and an honor that is usually only reserved for diplomats. We were all very thankful, privileged and hammered by the end of the meal.

Next was a trip to a resort where we peeled it up on quad bikes then went to a floating market full of live sea creatures to pick out lunch. It was very primal watching the seafood and chickens being slaughtered in plain sight before being served a few minutes later.

We had a final night of karaoke in another mansion like establishment and then we headed back to the main land with our trusty friend "Mun Goa". Mun Goa showed us around Guangzhou, he lived in a spacious, new looking section which was unlike the crowded center. For lunch we had these tiny chickens and some eggs with ants on it (cooked ants) I think we have all eaten enough bugs to know they don't taste good but we are here to embrace everything.

The time spent with Roy's family and friends was a highlight, if not the greatest highlight yet of this journey. Being drunk twice a day and having to deal with the morning hangover then the mid afternoon hangover was tough at first but we got used to it and loved it. The Chung experience was unforgettable. We are so grateful for the hospitality and generosity shown to us. 

The Chung experience Part II: Zhanjiang - Hainan - Guangzhou

Next on the agenda was two nights in Zhanjiang. This is now unofficially known as gangsters paradise. The delicious meals and drinking continued heavily over the next two nights. The first night consisted of karaoke in a palace like establishment followed by a late night hot pot fish. The second night we went clubbing and were escorted by some of Roy's dads business associate’s employees (gangsters). They treated us like kings, ordering multiple bottles of Remi Martin and escorting us around the club, dance floor and to the toilet (to unnecessarily make sure no one got into any trouble). 

The Chung experience part I: Nanning - Guangzhou - Tomb Sweeping 

Welcome to China!

Our first stop was Nanning. While we only spent one night in this city. It left a lasting impression and set the tone for our China experience. A first for all of us was seeing a well formed deuce in a busy KFC urinal, as well as the pure density of the city. It had a population that was twice that of NZ. 

After another 16 hour travel day we had finally arrived at our destination, Jiangmen, a suburb in the south of Guangzhou. We met up the with the Chungs and really had no idea what we were in for... The first day was an indicator. Three huge gourmet meals with local delicacies including; goose, wild boar, duck, crab, clams and much more.

Lunch on the first day was when we met Charles XO. A $200 bottle of Hennessy.  Thinking this would be a one off encounter, to celebrate our arrival, we went hard downing two bottles and getting pretty cut.  Little did we know charlesy would be making an appearance at dinner as well.  The daily double appearance of Charles would happen for the next ten days.  

Hanoi and Ha Long Bay 

We made it. Hanoi has 4.4 million motorcycles on its roads and you feel it as soon as you hit the outskirts of the city. We are back to chaotic, drive to survive, riding. The road rules here are do whatever the hell you want just don't hesitate or do it sporadically. 

We stay in the old quarter and it's packed with cheap markets and travelers trying to flog off their bikes. We take ours to a few places to get valued. Matt sells his at a reasonable price and makes a small loss. Gareth's bike is determined to have a shitty engine and Roy's has minor niggles but deemed mechanically sound. We walked the streets with for sale posters stuck to our chests and ended up selling the bikes that day to a dealer copping minor losses. 

We then headed to the mystically, majestic and magical Ha Long bay. It really is a cool place with 1,969 islands with amazingly shaped, shear rock faces. We stopped at a floating market to hire kayaks, which we used to paddle out to an enormous cave. The cave was found by the French over 100 years ago and only revealed to the Vietnamese in the 1990s (Sneaky French guys) 

Phong Nha 

Phong Nha national park is famous for its caves. It boasts the worlds biggest cave (apparently you can fly a 747 through it) and has kilometers and kilometers of underground networks for exploration. The town around it has only erupted recently (the park was only really opened up 5 years ago) and there's loads of construction going on. We think eventually the place will be transformed into a giant tourist trap. 

With some vague instruction from our hotel we hop on our bikes to ride to the park entrance. The ride there turns out to be as stunning as the caves themselves. Just the most classic looking Asian landscapes you've ever seen in you life. Giant limestone mountains looming out of the mist covered in lush green vegetation surrounded by endless fields of emerald rice paddies. 

We make it to the paradise cave. It’s pretty chocka full of tourists but once you enter the small entrance and descend the wooden stairs into the cave the place completely opens up. It's like stepping onto an alien planet. Giant stalactites and stalagmites that have taken millions of years to form completely surround you. Immediately we hedge our bets on how high we think the cave is, eventually we agree it's about 40m (never actually found out). It's simply massive. 

Hoi An - A Luoi - Khe Sanh 

The next destination was Phong Nha a UNESCO world heritage national park famous for its enormous limestone caverns. Unfortunately several hundred kilometers of mountainous terrain separated us from our goal and it was still pissing down!

We bucked it up, put on our trusty rain proof riding ponchos and hit the road. In the famous words of Forrest Gump, we rode through all types of rain - stingy rain, sideways rain and big fat ol’ rain.  

Turns out riding in the rain through the misty mountains wasn't so bad after all, and it was some of the most beautiful scenery we witnessed on our entire trip! We did have to put up with Gareth belting out renditions of Ed Sherans "Oh misty eye of the mountain" at every rest stop though. 

Hoi An 

Hoi An is a UNESCO world heritage town and has a similar feel to Malacca and Georgetown in Malaysia. Older preserved buildings are spread throughout, which give you a feel for the history and culture of the old fishing town. 

We felt we deserved a few beers after a hectic four day ride through some tough terrain. After walking the night markets we ended up at bar named Tiger and had a few of the locals brews. 

Buon Ma Thot - Plekiu - Dak Glei 

We had been told to take a train through this route but we were determined to see the journey through on bike. The roads were dusty and under heavy construction, which made for some hard riding but the people in these rural towns were very friendly and helpful, which made things easier.  

We stopped at a sign that said Cafe to get a coffee, it turned out they were coffee exporters but welcomed us into their house to enjoy lunch and tea when we just pulled into their driveway. It is a great experience to feel so welcome in a foreign land. 

Route 722 

Google maps told us that "this route does not exist" but we said "whatever I can see a little squiggly line on the map." 

We took it. 

It started on a pristine road, with some of the best riding we’d had so far. After about 3 hours it took a left turn into madness... The road became dirt track then a footpath then a complete bush track.  At this point we found an isolated village and stopped to ask if this was even possible. Three girls were spying on us and Roy broke out the candy as a show of good faith. The girls had mixed feelings about us, the girl in the middle who just ate candy had the cutest smile, she made us feel humbled and grateful to have the opportunity and resources to be able to be on this journey. 

After 6 hours and 30km of frustration, concentration, stabby branches, multiple falls and helping each cross broken bridges we got out of the jungle. I don’t think any of us have ever been so relieved to see tar-sealed road.  We made it out just in time as well,  the gas tanks were getting very, very low.