Darkness Falling

This is gonna be a long list.

ab intra - from within

ab origine - from the source

absit iniuria - “let insult be absent”

absit invidia - “let envy be absent”

absit omen - “let omens be absent”

ab uno disce omnes - from one, learn all.

abyssus abyssum invocat - deep calleth unto deep

a capite ad calcem - from head to heel

acta non verba - actions not words

ad altiora tendo - “I strive to higher things”

ad astra - to the stars

ad fontes - to the sources

ad meliora - towards better things

ad oculos - to the eyes

ad undas - to the waves

ad victoriam - to victory

adsum - I am here

a fortiori - from the stronger/from strength

a mari usque ad mare - from sea to sea

audeamus - let us dare

audentes fortuna iuvat - fortune favors the bold

audi, vide, tace - hear, see, be silent

beatae memoriae - of blessed memory

bona fide - in good faith

bono malum superate - overcome evil with good

capax infiniti - holding the infinite

carpe diem - seize the day

carpe noctem - seize the night

cave - beware

ceteris paribus - all other things being equal

circa - around

citius, altius, fortius - faster, higher, stronger

clavis aurea - golden key

cogito ergo sum - I think, therefor I am

compos mentis - in control of the mind

concilio et labore - by wisdom and effort

concordia cum veritate - in harmony with truth

concordia salus - well-being through harmony

coniunctis viribus - with connected strength

consummatum est - it is complete

corruptus in extremis - corrupt to the extreme

crescit eundo - it grows as it goes

de novo - from the new

de profundis - from the depths

dies irae - day of wrath

dona nobis pacem - give us peace

ego te provoco - I challenge you

esse est percipi - to be is to be perceived  

esse quam videri - to be, rather than to seem

esto quod es - be what you are

ex animo - from the soul

ex luna scientia - from the moon, knowledge

ex scientia tridens - from knowledge, sea power

ex silentio - from silence

ex undis - from the waves of the sea

experientia docet - experience teaches

fac et spera - do and hope

fac fortia et patere - do brave deed and endure

faciam quodlibet quod necesse est - I’ll do whatever it takes

faciam ut mei memineris - I’ll make you remember me

facta, non verba - deeds, not words

fortis et liber - strong and free

fortis in arduis - strong in difficulties

gloriosus et liber - glorious and free

hic abundant leones - here lions abound

hic et nunc - here and now

hic sunt dracones - here there are dragons

hinc illae lacrimae - hence those tears

hinc itur ad astra - from here the way leads to the stars

igni ferroque - with fire and iron

in memoriam - into the memory

in nocte consilium - advice comes over night

libra - balance

littera scripta manet - the written words endure

locus standi - a right to stand

luceo non uro - I shine, not burn

luctor et emergo - I struggle and emerge

mare liberum - free sea

memento vivere - remember to live

more ferarum - like beasts

natura non contristatur - nature is not saddened

nec spe, nec metu - without hope, without fear

noli me tangere - do not touch me

ophidia in herba - a snake in the grass

pro se - for oneself

propria manu - by one’s own hand

quaere - to seek

quod abundat non obstat - what is abundant does not hinder

resurgam - I shall arise

semper ad meliora - always towards better things

semper anticus - always forward

semper apertus - always open

semper fortis - always brave

semper liber - always free

stet - let it stand

tuebor - I will protect

Source here

*There is not much to say for the 1940s, so everything will be in one post. It did, however, take me more time than is healthy to research this.

Previous posts in the series:

Part 1: 1890s

Part 2: 1900s & 1910s

Part 3.1: 1920s-silhouette

Part 3.2: 1920s-design details

Part 3.3: 1920s-accessories, hair & makeup

Part 4.1: 1930s-silhouette & design

Part 4.2: 1930s-hair, makeup & accessories

Intro/Context

In 1937, all out war with Japan broke out (I legit consider this to be the beginning of WWII instead of the Eurocentric Germany invaded Poland thingy, is this a hot take?) and the ensuing chaos and instability caused Chinese fashion to stagnate for a good while; the fashionable silhouette changed gradually but slowly. The ongoing civil war between the Nationalists and the Communists, which ended in Communist victory in 1949, didn’t help the fashion situation either. However, it was in the 40s that the wearing of cheongsam became more accepted by the wider public, with common women outnumbering wealthy women and students in its support base. Practicality and versatility rather than glamor and creativity dominated the decade.

Silhouette & Design

In the beginning of the 1940s, the cheongsam was floor length——the legacy of the 30s. It had an extremely low, front-closing collar that was rounded and tapering at the edges, so low that it could usually only accommodate one pankou/button. I want to point out that all Chinese standing collars before the 1970s were extremely fitted to the wearer’s neck, leaving no gaps around it. I’ve seen a lot of modern cheongsam and hanfu ao with a collar so huge that once worn around the neck, one could still stick multiple fingers into it. This is not historical and probably also undesirable by modern standards, caused by standard sizing and the lack of tailoring. Anyway, the side slits around this time were quite short, usually a little lower than knee high, just enough to allow freedom of movement. Cap sleeved or sleeveless cheongsam were the most popular. The binding was modest, usually thin and single row. Sometimes there was no binding at all—-the raw edges were simply concealed in the lining. 

Source here

Cover of The Young Companion from 1940.

A couple years later the cheongsam was shortened to knee length, making it very practical and easy to move around in; this also required less fabric, which was crucial considering the lack of materials during the war. The slits became shorter because high slits were no longer necessary to allow freedom of movement and usually reached no higher than mid-thigh. The pankous were no longer decorative and emphasized like in the 30s, in the early 40s they were long, thin and innocuous, usually in the same color as the fabric or the binding. Western dressmaking techniques were STILL not used on cheongsam, but zippers and snap buttons began to replace the pankou closure at the side, making it faster and easier to get dressed. There would still be one visible pankou at the collar and one at the front, creating what is commonly known a 厂字襟 (厂 shaped front closure). Because of the practicality of the short skirt hem and the durable fabric, working class women began wearing cheongsam as well. Women who wore cheongsam in the 20s and 30s were not only wealthy (the long skirt made it difficult to carry out any physical labor), but also privileged enough to come from progressive families, as the short or cap sleeved cheongsam exposed the wearer’s bare arms and that was considered peak indecency. 

Source here

Mid 40s cheongsam.

The stigma around showing skin toned down significantly in the 40s and showing your arms and calves was more normalized. Women participated in the war effort as soldiers, nurses, spies and backline workers—-something that has never been done before in Chinese history—-generating a massive appeal for gender equality. The same feminist tendencies were present in Western fashion of the early 40s as well, culminating in the broad shoulder power look. The Western silhouette, which had broad shoulders, pointed breasts, slightly cinched waist and a knee length skirt hem, definitely impacted the Chinese silhouette.

Source here

Mid 40s cigarette ad showing a woman with the ideal body shape of the 40s: broad shoulders, protruding chest and tapered waist. 

長歌行 Long Ballad @哈士奇味的鴕鳥

“When your idea is against the conventional wisdom that makes sense to the star chamber, it is very hard to break out,” said Dr. David Langer, a neurosurgeon who has worked with Dr. Kariko.

28 DAYS OF S.H.E CHALLENGE

DAY 25. S.H.E song you will never skip.

I have a lot of songs that I don’t skip… but yeah, this is one my faves. :)