¡Legalicen ya la Marihuana!

Since I got my job I have been neglecting my skull crystallizing. But I finally got around to making a black one! I am hoping to have another one going soon but with how busy I am it might not be for a while. Take a look!

“Aye, Calypso, the places you’ve been to! The things that you’ve shown us, the stories you’d tell!” What would snakes tell us if they could talk? Her beauty makes her look so graceful (she’s not; she’s actually a clumsy baby noodle, as most are lol) and philosophical. Somehow, I don’t think she’d say something as profound as she appears to be thinking. Maybe… “Ratto? Where ratto? Rat lady?” 😂

Tuatara

Tuatara are reptiles endemic to New Zealand. Although resembling most lizards, they are part of a distinct lineage, the order Rhynchocephalia. The single species of tuatara is the only surviving member of its order, which flourished around 200 million years ago. Their name derives from the Māori language, and means “peaks on the back”. Their most recent common ancestor with any other extant group is with the squamates (lizards and snakes). The average lifespan is about 60 years, but they can live to be well over 100 years old. Some experts believe that captive tuatara could live as long as 200 years.

Quite frankly I’m glad you posted this… even though it wasn’t your intention it’s a clear example of a habitat with common beginner mistakes. I’ve been looking for something like this and since its not your enclosure… I’m going to break it down.

As with any of my posts, none of it is a judgement on the person, but these are somewhat important to highlight as they are frequent mistakes for new owners to make.

1. The tank itself is somewhat problematic. Not in the sense that tanks are impossible to maintain a ball python in, however, being so exposed is not fair to such a naturally shy animal. 3 of the 4 sides should be covered with something opaque. A background, posterboard, etc.

Alternative: cover the back and two side panels with Styrofoam or foam poster board. Not only with this aid in keeping the snake from becoming stressed, but it will also provide better insulation which promotes stable temperatures.

2. Looks to be only heated by a lamp. Ball pythons should be given constant temperatures in a heat gradient, but not constant light. Providing light is fine for the day, however, when it comes to heating at night you have to make a choice- do i provide correct temperatures for my animal or do I stress them out with light?

Alternative: Ceramic Heat Emitter. CHEs provide heat without the light and can keep temperatures consistent day in and day out.

3. That “hide” is inappropriate as the only hide. Snakes should be provided with hides that allow them to be fully hidden. They should not be visible to your eye while inside the hide. This will help to relieve stress. In addition, they should be given at least 2 hides- one for the cool end and one for the hot end.

Alternative:

Make your own hide that is both aesthetically pleasing and appropriate for the snake, or buy one of these fully enclosed plastic hides: https://www.lllreptile.com/products/19537-small-black-hide-box

4. Substrate:

I’m not entirely sure what’s going on here. This is actually not a beginner mistake… It’s just a very weird one. I think it’s one of those bath mats that are squishy? It’s going to harbor bacteria like no other. If the animal poops you have to remove the whole thing and try to figure out a way to scrub all the pieces put of that texture.

Where the beginner mistake comes in has to do with the tank as well. Since tanks are more difficult to keep humidity in, especially with a light for heating element, the humidity is not going to stay very high for long. Ball pythons should always be provided with an ambient humidity of 55%, so unless the region is naturally humid this substrate will not work.

Alternative:

Coco husk chips. This will hold water to maintain humidity at an optimal level for this species.

5. Heat gradient? Where is it? This enclosure is far too small and the heat placement is strange. This prevents a proper heat gradient from forming, and creates a homogenous temperature environment. Heat gradients are important in allowing the animal the option to regulate their own temperatures. Although many breeders will say 84-86 degrees is optimal, ball pythons will still thermoregulate to cool temperatures if they are provided with them. In addition to allowing autonomy, it is also beneficial as it encourages movement.

Alternative: provide your ball pythons with a space that is at least the length of their body. Contrary to popular belief, they are not pet rocks that stay in holes in the ground for their entire lives. Studies in their natural habitat show movement, especially at night, so a larger enclosure benefits both temperatures and health.