Yuji Ramen
Ramen has for sure taken over this city. New ramen shops seem to magically appear out of thin air. With ramen, we've seen it all: traditional pork or chicken (Ippudo, Totto), tonkotsu (from pork bones) (Hakata Tonton), straight or curly noodles, hot or cold and even brothless, shoyu (soy) or shio (salt) broth (both at Sanshiro), to the less conventional, like miso or curry ramen, veggie ramen (Chuko is the best, close second is Dassara's mushroom ramen), chicken dinner ramen (Talde) or lamb or matzo ball soup ramen (Dassara). But even in a ramen saturated city, we've found a ramen first. A 7-course ramen omakase dinner.
That's right... an entire tasting menu dedicated to, and serving course after course of, delicious ramen! By day, Yuji Ramen is a small ramen counter specializing in satisfying bowls of mazeman (brothless ramen) a la carte to Soho lunch diners; by night, Yuji Ramen ramps it up and presents a lucky 6 diners per night the only ramen omakase dinner in the city. And this ain't just any ol' ramen. Chef Yuji Haraguchi is churning out some of the most inventive, imaginative and down-right crazy ramen in this city. He reinterprets, and challenges you to rethink, ramen entirely.
The 6 omakase diners perch at the narrow counter, a nice place to overlook all of the large fragrant pots of broth calmly bubbling in the background, and the couple of young ramen chefs busily fluttering about, assembling pretty little bowls of noodles. Standard for a ramen shop, no? No. Because Yuji Ramen is on the mezzanine level of the Bowery WHOLE FOODS! So strange.... but so right....
The meal started like the daytime service (ATO makes it a point to go whenever he can) - with pickles. A welcome start, but the pickles were lacking in pickling. I like more bite to my pickles.
The parade of ramen commences. The portions are perfectly sized for a tasting menu and the pacing is right. Yuji himself, who is surprisingly young, very thin (especially considering his livelihood is based on simple carbs) and super smiley and approachable explains the ingredients and his intention with each dish. A very casual atmosphere for a seriously creative high-end dining experience.
The first course is a staple of the Yuji menu: cured salmon is served with camembert and cream cheese, garnished with nori and fresh herbs. This is ATO's "go to" on the regular menu. At once so original, yet familiar, tried and true. The smoky salmon and the creamy rich cheese, when mixed together, is balanced and phenomenal.
Next up, a cold ramen: squid ink ramen in the shape of orecchiette, with ikura (salmon roe), daikon, yuzu and lime. A refreshing dish with a nice pop of saltiness from the ikura to offset the mild sweetness of the yuzu and the slight bitterness of the daikon. ATO's only knock was that he wanted to really taste the squid ink in that pasta.
Barley tea. Love this stuff. ATO and I always have a batch brewing in our fridge in the summer. The version here was far superior than the tea we sip at home. By the way, as of now, Yuji does not have a liquor license. Only big downside.
Who says ramen is limited to the form of a long thin noodle? How about a raviolo? This one was filled with a saucy uni and white miso mixture, and garnished with orange, orange zest, nori and a premium chunk of fresh uni. Intense, yo. You have got to be down with that funk and brine of the ocean taste to enjoy this dish, but if you are, it's a real treat.
For our next course, the ramen came in the form of a cracker. To be used as a vehicle for some light and delicate bluefish belly, mixed with quail egg, shiso, nori and scallions. The fish was ridiculously fresh and tender.
It was at this point that the Jamba Juice peeps came over and offered us free samples of their newest smoothie flavor (we politely declined but our neighbors actually took them up on their offer mid-tasting). Strange consequence of being located in the Whole Foods food court, I guess. I laughed out loud. Yuji took it well, with a goofy grin, a shrug of the shoulders and a slightly embarrassed look in his eyes.
Now, the interactive course. Meaty cherry stone clams, slivers of radish, thick slices of bacon, Asian pear and ponzu were floating in a gelatinous dashi broth. The whole thing jiggled like jello when you shook the bowl. It was cold.
But once you poured the mixture onto a steaming hot bowl of noodles, it melted. It liquefied into an aromatic, savory broth. The noodles had a pleasant bounce and firmness. Everything turned luke-warm (which, admittedly, is not my favorite temperature for ramen, but was definitely intentional, as Yuji explained) and made for a very interesting bowl of noodles. The ponzu broth was heavy on vinegar and not too sweet, making this dish really stand out for ATO.
At the end of the meal, Yuji asked each guest what their favorite dish was. I named this one. Monkish liver in nori ramen, topped with fresh grated wasabi. Truth be told: I didn't finish my serving (ATO was rewarded with an extra raviolo). But I wasn't lying to Yuji. Monkfish liver is, as Yuji described, the "foie gras of the sea." I love myself a good foie gras torchon, and the dense lush consistency of this monkfish liver was spot on. So over-the-top decadent. But, it was definitely a product of the deep blue sea. The finish of this bite was prominently fishy. Not fishy in that "not so fresh" way, but fishy in that intrinsic quality of fish offal way. So while respectfully appreciative of the fine care and skill that was applied to this dish, I knew that ATO would enjoy the oceanic qualities more than I would. And FYI, fresh wasabi is completely amazing.
Finally, the knock-out round. Yuji's excitement to present this dish was palpable. French presses were set on the counter. They were carefully filled with torched mussel shells, all hot and crackly and on the verge of disintegration. Next, large flaky pieces of bonito were added. Finally, a steaming redolent broth was poured in. Yuji noted that since his menu is based on seasonal ingredients, and since we were coming in at the end of November, our particular broth was heavy on turkey. Then we stewed in anticipation as the ingredients stewed in the French press.
Finally, after a couple of very long minutes, we were welcome to push down our French presses. As we did, all of those shells were crushed to bits and pieces, and the resulting deeply complex broth was ours to pour over our separate bowls of delectable smoked mussels and ramen. Sensational.
To end this fabulous meal, a little shiso mint cake with white chocolate panna cotta.
How does Yuji make some of the best, and certainly the most creative, ramen in the city? When asked where he eats ramen on his free time, he answered "I don't eat ramen." It turns out, Yuji himself DISLIKES ramen. In fact, the whole point of this place is to redefine ramen, to change it into something that, for him, is actually good. Well, he succeeded. It's no wonder that no other ramen will do for him now.
Can't wait for your ramen enlightenment? Be patient and persistent and call often. As Yuji told us, matter-of-factly with no hint of ego, the waitlist is only about 3,000 people per month. Good luck!
Website: http://yujiramen.com/


















