California Days 4-6: Yosemite, San Anselmo, Muir Woods
Well, Yosemite did indeed bring the heat! (And the crowds!) But what an amazing couple of days.
We got there just in time for the beginning of the celebration honoring the 150th anniversary of the Yosemite Land Grant Act. It was signed by President Abraham Lincoln in 1864 (in the midst of the Civil War) and it designated Yosemite as the first protected wild land in the United States. This act launched the idea of National Parks in our country and protected Yosemite for all time.
We arrived in Yosemite after a long drive from Monterey, with a much-needed In-And-Out Burger stop along the way as well as a produce shopping spree featuring 7 for $1 avocados! Our AirBNB cottage was about 30 minutes from the south gate of Yosemite, in a town called Oakhurst. The cottage was beautiful and everything we could've hoped for-- great views, a lovely living space, a washer & dryer, 2 porches, and even fresh eggs in the fridge from the owner's chickens! We arrived in the early evening, settled in quickly, and jumped back in the car to try to make it to Yosemite for sunset.
The drive in was longer and more winding than either of us was prepared for but by the time we arrived at Glacier Point, it was clear that it was all worth it. Hiking up from the parking lot to the lookout point, we could see the famous Half Dome as well as miles of the park spread out in front of us. We sat on a boulder listening to a park ranger talk about the history of the park as the sun went down. Interestingly, at this lookout, it's not the setting sun that's the focal point-- your back is actually turned to it. The real magic is in the light from the setting sun hitting Half Dome and the surrounding mountain range and making it glow a fiery red.
A bit after the sun had set, we started to see the glow and sat there in awe of it. Despite an iPhone tragedy resulting in a broken screen (which was thankfully resolved later in the trip), we both agree it was one of the most magical parts of our entire trip.
Once the show was over, it was back in the car for the winding trip home. After a solid night's sleep, we were up very early the next day, hoping to make it into the park before the rest of the tourists.
On the agenda today was hiking the Mist Trail that leads to the top of Vernal Falls. We successfully beat the crowds into the park and started the day with an amazing view of the valley floor from the "Tunnel View" lookout. Next we secured a parking spot before the lot filled up and closed, and hopped on the shuttle to the trailhead. Phil's research on the trail had revealed that it was a 3 mile loop to the falls and back-- unfortunately, we were unaware that it was an entirely uphill hike that concluded with a march up 500 uneven (and oftentimes wet) granite steps. We put on our brave faces and made it all the way to the top and were treated to more amazing views of the falls and the valley below.
By the time we descended it was lunchtime and we were spent so we ate our picnic lunch, checked out the busy visitor's center, and drove around for a bit on the valley floor. The crowds had really started to swarm in the park, so we decided to call it a day and have a leisurely afternoon back at our little cottage.
The next day was our last in Yosemite so we packed up our car, said goodbye to our AirBNB home, and made our way back to the south gate. Our destination was Mariposa Grove, home to Yosemite's famous redwood trees. Unfortunately, despite getting there at 9:30am, the parking lots near the Grove were already full so we had to take a shuttle there, which added about 45 minutes to our journey. Knowing our time was a little tight, we decided to just tour the lower grove and set out on the 2 mile hike past tons of HUGE redwoods.
Having already been to the redwood grove at Henry Cowell State Park, we weren't expecting these redwoods to be much different but they were MASSIVE. The biggest one in Yosemite is called Grizzly Giant and is 28 feet in diameter and roughly 1,800 years old. Fun Fact: A branch growing out of the top of it was bigger in diameter than every non-redwood tree in the park! Amazing.
Hiking back to our car, we sadly said our goodbyes to Yosemite (and good riddance to the crowds) and made our way back toward the coast. Our next stop was San Anselmo, a small town north of San Francisco where Lauren's friends Ben and Ashleigh live. We arrived at their house in the late afternoon and were treated to what was hands-down the most photogenic meal of our trip-- fresh salmon, polenta, and root vegetables and deep-dish peach pie with homemade vanilla ice cream for dessert. It didn't hurt that it was also incredibly delicious too...
In the morning, our hosts served us sourdough pancakes and fresh fruit and then we were off to explore the area with Ben as our tour guide. First stop was checking out George Lucas's massive "compound" in Ben and Ashleigh's neighborhood. He has bought up a bunch of houses in their hilly community and turned them into his own little world, including a $900,000 "furniture storage" house right across from Ben and Ashleigh's home.
Next up was Muir Woods, our third sequoia grove of the trip. This was the one we were the most excited about, mostly because it was where Return of the Jedi had been filmed. Phil got the ewok music stuck in all of our heads as we explored the cool and shady trails leading through the grove. We were both nerding out about feeling like we were on Endor-- thankfully Ben was patient with our Star Wars geekery and even was into taking as many jumping photos as we wanted (but you'll have to wait for our Facebook album to see those).
After Muir Woods, we drove to the nearby Stinson Beach, finally dipped our toes in the (CHILLY) Pacific Ocean and then headed to a spot called Marin Sun Farms for some fresh, local burgers that pretty much blew our minds. After some equally mind-blowing organic ice cream in the little town of Fairfax, we dropped off our tour guide, thanked him a million times over for such a great day, and headed south to San Francisco.
Less than 20 minutes later and we were out of the tunnel with the Golden Gate Bridge in sight. We both gasped when we saw it and quickly found the closest overlook to stop and take pictures. Thankfully, it was a relatively clear day and the bridge was looking perfect. We snapped a bunch of pictures (and of course, a few selfies), narrowly avoided losing a hat to the gusty San Francisco breeze, and jumped back in the car to head into the city.
We arrived at our second AirBNB accommodations of the trip, a Victorian mansion once owned by a man named Alfred E. Clarke and nicknamed "Nobby's Folly" for reasons I will let you read about on your own. Our apartment was in one of the house's turrets and was terrifying and beautiful at the same time. The living room was entirely round, even its window panes, and had a spiral staircase that led up to the bedroom at the top of the turret. Phil likened the bedroom to sleeping in the hull of a pirate ship and with the gusty winds constantly blowing outside the turret walls, it definitely sounded like it too.
Walking from our place in the Castro down to the Mission, we grabbed a late dinner at a great little spot called Tacolicious and then hiked our way up some of San Francisco's famously steep hills back to our weird little mansion for some sleep.