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When you come home after a long day and see your dog pacing restlessly, panting, or struggling to get comfortable because of joint pain, it’s a heartbreak that’s hard to put into words. Anxiety and age-related discomfort are quietly affecting our furry friends’ sleep quality and overall well-being. Fortunately, there’s a special bed design that has quietly become a safe haven for these sensitive dogs—and that’s the donut dog bed.

Why a Donut Dog Bed Is an Excellent Choice for Anxious and Senior Dogs

A donut dog bed looks just like an oversized, fluffy donut. Its core design features raised edges surrounding a recessed center. This structure is no accident—it cleverly caters to your dog’s natural nesting instinct. When a dog curls up in the recessed center, the raised edges gently wrap around their body, creating a sense of security. This feeling of being “held” is especially important for anxious dogs.

Over the past few months, we tested half a dozen donut-style beds on a crew of anxious terriers, creaky senior labs, and one very picky rescue poodle. The results were eye-opening. For dogs struggling with noise phobias, separation anxiety, or simply the general aches that come with age, these round, fluffy beds can make a real difference.

It’s worth noting that these beds are usually made with super-soft plush materials, which are not only comfortable but also provide warmth in colder weather. That said, it’s important to understand that while an anti-anxiety dog bed can significantly relieve symptoms, it is not a cure for anxiety. If your dog shows signs of severe anxiety, consulting a veterinarian or a certified animal behaviorist is always the best first step.

How to Choose the Right Donut Dog Bed for Your Dog

Not all donut dog beds are created equal. Before you place an order for your furry friend, there are several key factors to consider to ensure the bed is both comfortable and durable.

Size Matters

Choose a size that fits your dog’s body. The bed should be large enough for your dog to stretch out fully or curl up comfortably, but not so large that they no longer feel the sense of security provided by the edges. For larger breeds, there are specifically designed donut dog beds for large dogs to ensure adequate space and support.

Support and Comfort

The filling determines the bed’s comfort and longevity. Look for products with high-resilience, supportive filling. Some premium beds use materials like hollow fiber technology to quickly regain their shape after pressure, preventing the bed from flattening too soon. For senior dogs with arthritis or hip dysplasia, consider a large dog bed orthopedic that combines the cozy donut shape with orthopedic support.

Durability and Easy Cleaning

Dog beds are a focus of cleaning efforts. A removable, machine-washable cover is a must. The fabric should be tough enough to withstand occasional scratching and trampling. A base with non-slip points prevents the bed from sliding across the floor, which is especially safer for senior and active dogs.

Quality and Design

High-quality materials are more durable and provide a more comfortable experience for your dog. Additionally, the bed’s design and color should harmonize with your home decor.

Special Needs: XL Dogs and Senior “Fur Babies”

For large and senior dogs, the need for a good bed becomes even more specific and urgent.

The Challenge for Large Dogs

Large breeds like Labradors, Golden Retrievers, and German Shepherds put any dog bed to the test with their weight and size. A standard donut bed may lack space, and the edge height may not adequately support their head and neck. Therefore, choosing an xl dog bed designed specifically for them is crucial. These beds are not only larger in size (often labeled as XL or extra-large), but their internal structure should also withstand greater weight, with thicker fill to distribute pressure points.

Comfort for Senior Dogs

As dogs age, their joints become stiff and muscles weak. They need more support to relieve pain and achieve restful sleep. This is where a large dog bed orthopedic can be ideal. The core of these mattresses is typically high-density memory foam or support foam, which conforms to your dog’s body curves, evenly distributes weight, and reduces pressure on elbows, hips, and the spine. Look for products that combine orthopedic support with the surrounded security of a donut—offering both physical and emotional comfort for your senior dog.

Product Recommendation from Pet House Mall

At Pet House Mall, we understand that your dog is a member of your family. We carefully select a range of high-quality pet supplies to meet the needs of everyone from energetic puppies to calm senior dogs. Our donut dog bed collection focuses on creating the ultimate relaxation space for sensitive, anxious, and older dogs.

For senior dogs who need both joint support and the comforting feel of a donut shape, our Orthopedic Donut Bed is the best choice. It combines a memory foam base with tall, fluffy raised edges. The entry point is lower than that of standard donuts, making it easier for arthritic hips to access.

Care and Maintenance Tips

To keep your dog’s donut dog bed in top condition:

Clean regularly: Follow the washing instructions and wash the cover regularly. A clean bed reduces allergens and odors, making your dog more willing to use it.

Restore fluffiness: After washing and drying, gently pat or shake the bed to help the filling regain its shape.

Check placement: Put the bed in a quiet, low-traffic corner, away from drafts and direct sunlight, to create a truly secure resting area for your dog.

Encourage use: Place your dog’s favorite toy or blanket on the bed, and use treats and gentle encouragement to guide them to rest there. This helps them associate the bed with positive experiences.

A Bed Won’t Change Everything, But It Can Change Something

Choosing a donut dog bed for an anxious or senior dog is about much more than buying a piece of pet furniture. It’s a caring decision—a way of telling your furry friend, “I see your discomfort, and I’m here to offer you a safe, cozy harbor.”

Whether you’re looking for a classic donut dog bed to soothe a nervous dog, need donut dog beds for large dogs to accommodate a bigger frame, or are exploring a large dog bed orthopedic to relieve joint pain, the key is finding the perfect balance of support, security, comfort, and ease of use. For especially big companions, don’t forget that a true xl dog bed provides the space they need to truly stretch out.

 Buying a bed for your cat seems like a simple thing. But once you open any shopping website, you'll find there are far more choices than you'd expect.

The two most confusing categories are the felt cat cave bed and the plush cat bed. One is firmer and sculptural; the other is soft as a cloud.

Which one is actually better for your cat?

This article won't just say "both are good." We'll break down the differences from several angles: your cat's actual behavior, material durability, price, and your cat's emotional health.

Before diving into the details, let’s start with a visual comparison.

Feature

Felt Cat Cave Bed

Plush Cat Bed

Main Material

100% Wool Felt

Polyester / Faux Long Plush

Structure & Shape

Cave-style, firm and structured space

Open or shallow bowl shape, soft

Warming Method

Self-warming (hygroscopic heat release)

Relies on cat's own body heat

Breathability

Good, not stuffy

Average, tends to trap moisture

Anti-Anxiety Effect

High (enclosed + stable feel)

Low (no cover)

Scratch & Dig Resistance

Strong

Weak, prone to pilling and snagging

Washing Method

Machine washable, holds shape

Washable but easily loses shape

1. Quick Look: The Core Differences Between the Two Cat Beds

Before we go into detail, let's clearly understand the core features of each bed type.

Felt Cat Cave Bed: A Cozy, Safe Shelter

Imagine a sturdy, sculptural "igloo" or a quirky pod made of dense, pressed wool felt. That's the essence of a felt cat cave bed. It's not soft like traditional plush. Instead, it offers a sense of structural security. The thick, non-woven felt walls create a defined, enclosed space that satisfies your cat's most primal instinct: seeking shelter in a safe, hidden cave.

Key Features:

Material: Dense, durable wool or recycled polyester felt. It's sturdy and holds its shape.

Design: Enclosed or semi-enclosed, typically with a single entrance. Often features organic, modern shapes (domes, pods, teardrops).

Main Appeal: Security, privacy, and a sense of ownership over a personal "cave."

Feel: Offers a warm, textured surface that cats enjoy kneading, but it's not fluffy.

Plush Cat Bed: The Classic Soft Cloud

A plush cat bed is the embodiment of open, luxurious comfort. Imagine a soft, padded cushion, often with raised, reinforced edges forming a "nest." It's typically made from materials like faux fur, velvet, or fleece, offering instant, sink-in softness. The core design invites your cat to relax in a more open and accessible way.

Key Features:

Material: Soft, fluffy fabrics like faux fur, flannel, or fleece, lined with foam or polyester filling.

Design: Usually oval or round with reinforced edges. Can be completely open-top or have low surrounding walls.

Main Appeal: Ultimate softness, warmth, and an inviting, accessible resting spot.

Feel: Very soft and inviting to the touch, similar to a cozy fleece blanket.

2. Material & Durability: Which One Can Withstand a Real Cat?

Felt Cat Bed

Wool felt isn't ordinary fabric. It's made from natural wool through heat, pressure, and friction, resulting in high density and toughness.

This means:

When your cat scratches, digs, or steps on it, it doesn't leave obvious marks easily

It doesn't develop large areas of pilling like ordinary fabrics

The cave structure doesn't collapse, even after a dozen entries and exits each day

With a truly good felt cat cave bed, when you press down with your hand, you can feel noticeable rebound and support. It's not "squishy" — it has a skeleton-like structure.

Plush Cat Bed

The problem with plush beds is never "when you first buy it." Right after purchase, it's very comfortable, soft as cotton candy.

But what about three weeks later?

Where your cat steps becomes permanently flattened

One scratch can pull out a long thread

One wash causes the fur to mat; two washes and the shape is completely ruined.

Many owners report: "My cat ended up sleeping in a cardboard box instead of that plush bed."

That's not because the cat is picky. It's because the plush bed's support degrades too quickly.

3. Warmth & Breathability: Which Works Better Year-Round?

Many people think "softer = warmer," but that's not entirely accurate.

How a Plush Cat Bed Retains Warmth

Long plush fibers trap still air between them to retain heat. That works, but there's a drawback: it's not breathable.

After your cat sleeps on a plush cat bed for a while, moisture under its body can't escape. During summer or in heated rooms, your cat may feel stuffy and even groom itself more often.

How a Felt Cat Bed Retains Warmth

Wool is a natural self-warming material. Here's how it works:

It absorbs water vapor released by your cat's body

It releases heat within the fibers (adsorption heat)

So you'll notice: when your cat first lies down in a felt cat cave bed, the bed is at room temperature. Within minutes, the inside becomes noticeably warmer — but not stuffy.

Plus, the cave structure traps heat in a small space, so your cat doesn't need an electric blanket or microwaveable heat pack.

4. Cat Behavior Preferences: What Kind of Cat Do You Have?

This is arguably the most important category, especially for anxious or sensitive cats. The design philosophy of each bed leads to very different outcomes.

Felt Cat Cave Bed: Champion of Security

The enclosed design of a felt cat cave bed is a game-changer for anxious cats. It satisfies their need for a safe shelter — a place to observe the world without being seen, to escape loud noises (thunderstorms, vacuum cleaners, guests), and simply to feel protected. This makes it a strong contender for the best cat bed for anxiety. The walls buffer sound and light, creating a calm, womb-like environment. An anxious cat doesn't just want comfort; it needs to feel safe. A cave provides that fortress.

Plush Cat Bed: Open Comfort

A plush cat bed provides comfort but contributes little to active security. An anxious cat lying on a plush bed is still exposed. While the softness can be soothing, it doesn't offer the "hiding" function that many stressed cats instinctively seek. For a confident cat, this isn't a problem. But for a timid cat, the open design may mean they avoid the bed entirely when stressed.

A Real-Life Example

I once saw a rescued stray cat that, for the first three months after being adopted, would only sleep under the dining table. The owner bought a felt cat cave bed and placed it in a corner. The cat ignored it completely for the first week.

In the second week, the cat started tentatively putting its front paws inside.

A month later, that cat was spending over 10 hours a day curled up inside.

The owner said: "It wasn't that my cat didn't want a bed. I just hadn't given it the right bed before."

This is why many people have started calling the felt cat cave bed the best cat bed for anxiety — not because it's expensive, but because it genuinely changes a cat's behavior.

5. The Ultimate Matching Guide: Which Bed for Which Cat?

"The better" bed is the one that fits your specific cat. Use this guide to match the bed to your cat's personality.

Choose a Felt Cat Cave Bed if your cat:

Is shy, timid, or anxious. It's the best cat bed for anxiety.

Likes to hide under beds, in boxes, or in dark closets

Enjoys high perches (many felt caves are sturdy enough to sit on a cat tree)

Lives in a busy, multi-pet, or multi-person household and needs an escape space

Is a kitten that benefits from a safe, womb-like environment

Choose a Plush Cat Bed if your cat:

Is social and confident, enjoying being in the center of family activity

Likes to stretch out when sleeping, rather than curling up tightly

Seeks out the sunniest, warmest spots in your home (a plush bed in the sun is heaven)

Is older or has arthritis, needing a soft, padded surface that's easy to step into (cave entrances can sometimes be a bit high or small for senior cats with stiff joints)

Enjoys kneading and suckling on soft fabrics

6. Verdict: Which Is Better – Felt Cat Cave Bed or Plush Cat Bed?

The answer is that they serve different but equally valid purposes.

A felt cat cave bed is the therapeutic choice — an exclusive safe space, a security blanket in bed form, and often the best cat bed for anxiety.

A plush cat bed is the comfort-first choice — an inviting, luxurious resting spot for cats who already feel completely safe and just want the softest possible nap.

If you have the space and the budget, the ultimate solution is to provide both. Place a secure felt cave in a quiet room for rest and stress relief, and a soft plush bed in the living area for socializing and lounging.

7. FAQ

Can I wash a felt cat cave bed? Yes, most are machine washable on a wool/delicate cycle with cold water. Air dry flat.

Does a plush cat bed cause overheating? It can, especially in summer, because it's less breathable than felt.

Which is the best cat bed for anxiety? The felt cat cave bed is widely considered the best cat bed for anxiety due to its enclosed, secure design.

 Cats are naturally drawn to warm environments—which is why you often find your feline napping in a patch of sunlight. It’s this preference for warmth that makes self heating cat beds and electric heated cat beds so popular. These beds provide a cozy sleeping space for cats who struggle to maintain body heat, making them a favorite among owners of senior cats, kittens, outdoor cats, and those with arthritis.

Electric heated cat beds are becoming more and more popular, but are they safe for cats? As an editor for a website dedicated to pet products (from cat houses to dog beds, we’ve got it all), I often get asked this question: "Should I buy a self heating cat bed for my cat, or a plug-in electric heated bed?"

Before answering that question, remember our first rule: Safety first, comfort second.

Although there are many high-quality weatherproof outdoor cat shelters and indoor heated pads on the market, not all "heat sources" are created equal. Today, let’s compare them in depth from three angles: safety, usage scenarios, and what your cat really needs.

Core Difference: Technology vs. Electricity

To decide which is safer, we first need to understand how they produce heat.

1. Self-Heating Cat Bed: Passive Physical Magic

This type of cat bed doesn’t need to be plugged in. Inside, it typically has a reflective layer (such as aluminum foil or metallized material similar to space blankets) and an insulating layer.

How it works: When your cat lies down, its body heat is "bounced back" by the reflective layer, while the insulating layer traps the warmth and prevents it from escaping into the floor.

Safety: Extremely high. With no wires, plugs, or electrical current, it completely eliminates the risk of electric shock, short circuits, or fire.

2. Electric Heated Cat Bed: Active Warmth

This type of bed is similar to our human electric blankets and requires a power connection.

How it works: Built-in heating elements generate heat through electricity. Some high-end models come with thermostats.

Safety: Moderate to low. Despite technological advances, risks still exist whenever electricity and fabric are combined. This is especially true for kittens or dogs who like to chew—cords are a major safety hazard.

Safety Comparison: Which One Wins?

Let’s compare them from three key safety angles:

1. Electrical and Fire Risks

Self-heating bed: Zero risk. You can place it anywhere. Even if your cat shreds the bed, it’s just padding and reflective material—nothing dangerous.

Electric heated bed: Hidden risks. This is something we must emphasize to customers. According to U.S. data, heating equipment is one of the leading causes of house fires. If an electric heated bed lacks proper safety certification (like ETL or MET), or if a pet chews through the cord, the consequences could be disastrous.

Conclusion: If you have a destructive pet or you’re away from home often during the day, a self heating cat bed is the absolute safest choice.

2. Overheating and Low-Temperature Burns

Self-heating bed: Gentle and safe. Its heat comes from your cat’s own body, so the maximum temperature never exceeds your cat’s body temperature (about 38–39°C / 100–102°F). It "retains warmth" rather than "generating heat," so low-temperature burns are impossible.

Electric heated bed: Requires caution. Even with a thermostat, if the controller fails or if your cat has reduced sensitivity due to age or illness (like diabetes), it could lie on an overheated surface for too long and suffer burns without even realizing it.

3. Outdoor Use

Let’s talk specifically about outdoor cats. If you’re looking for shelter for stray cats or your own backyard explorer, safety standards are even higher.

We recommend pairing a weatherproof outdoor cat shelter with a self-heating bed. Outdoors, a self heating cat bed is still a great choice because it won’t short out if it gets wet (as long as the fabric is water-resistant). In fact, many high-quality waterproof outdoor cat beds are designed with self-heating technology, keeping cats dry and warm.

If you absolutely must use an electric heated product in a very cold climate, be sure to pair it with a raised cat bed. A raised cat bed not only protects against dampness and cold from the ground but also keeps electrical cords elevated, preventing snowmelt buildup and chewing by rodents.

Hidden Advantages of Self-Heating Cat Beds

Beyond safety, self-heating beds offer several benefits that pet owners love:

True portability: Want to move the bed from the living room to the bedroom or take it on a road trip? Just pick it up and go. Electric beds are forever tied to an outlet.

Zero electricity cost: This isn’t directly about safety, but it’s a nice bonus. Your cat’s body heat is free, natural energy.

Good for sick or fragile cats: This might surprise you. For cats recovering from surgery or those who are weak, electric heating pads can cause dehydration or overheating. The gentle "micro-warmth" of a self-heating bed is more like a mother’s body heat, providing emotional comfort without medical risks.

When Should You Choose an Electric Heated Cat Bed?

After all this praise for self-heating beds, are electric ones completely useless? No.

In certain situations, an electric heated cat bed is a necessity:

Extremely cold climates: If you live somewhere where winter temperatures drop to -10°C (14°F) or lower, and you don’t have indoor heating. Self-heating beds work by reflecting body heat—if the environment is freezing, your cat is losing heat faster than it can be reflected back.

Senior cats with arthritis: For elderly cats with severe arthritis, the continuous, stable dry heat from an electric bed can provide excellent pain relief—something a self-heating bed may not achieve.

Safety Tips for Electric Heated Beds

If you decide to buy an electric heated cat bed, follow these rules:

Must have certification: Only buy products with UL, MET, or similar international safety certifications. This protects not just your cat, but your home as well.

Must have temperature control: Avoid "dumb heat" beds. Always choose automatic thermostatic control to prevent overheating.

Protect the cord: Consider buying chew-proof cord covers to put around the power cord.

Our Recommendation (As a Pet Product Website)

As a pet product website (we specialize in cat houses, cat beds, dog houses, dog beds, and more), our product philosophy is: Prioritize safety, then comfort.

So, in the ultimate showdown of "Self-Heating vs. Electric Heated Cat Beds," here’s our recommendation:

First Choice: Self-Heating Cat Bed

Why: Suitable for 99% of households. Whether you have a destructive kitten or a calm senior cat, the zero-risk, zero-maintenance nature of self-heating beds makes them the best choice for most cats.

Best for: Any indoor corner, placed on a raised cat bed on a balcony, or used as the inner pad inside a weatherproof outdoor cat shelter.

Specific Recommendation: Electric Heated Cat Bed

Why: Only for specific therapeutic needs.

Best for: Unheated rooms in extremely cold climates, or senior cats with arthritis.

You can browse our product pages and filter according to this guide. Remember: the best way to show love for your cat is to first ensure it sleeps safely.

 If you care about community cats or have an outdoor feline friend, you've probably wondered how to insulate a cat house properly. Cold weather isn't just uncomfortable for cats—it can be dangerous. Hypothermia and frostbite are real risks, especially for cats who spend most of their time outside.

The good news? Building an outdoor insulated cat house doesn't require advanced skills or expensive materials. With a few smart choices, you can create a warm, dry, and safe space that helps cats survive even freezing temperatures.

In this guide, I'll walk you through everything you need to know—from choosing the right size to picking the best bedding and placement. Let's get started.

Why Bother with an Insulated Cat House?

Before we dive into the how-to, let's talk about why this matters. Cats are resourceful, but they're not invincible. An outdoor cat house in winter serves several purposes:

Protection from the elements – Wind, snow, rain, and freezing rain can quickly lower a cat's body temperature.

Safety from predators – A well-built shelter keeps raccoons, coyotes, and other threats out.

Health benefits – Cats who stay warm and dry are less likely to develop respiratory infections or joint problems.

Controlled location – If you're feeding outdoor cats, you want them sleeping nearby, not in a neighbor's crawl space or under a porch where they might not be welcome.

A properly insulated cat house outdoor can literally save lives. Let's build one.

Step 1: Choose the Right Size

Size matters more than you might think. A shelter that's too large won't stay warm because the cats' body heat disperses too quickly. A shelter that's too small is uncomfortable and won't fit enough bedding.

Here are the basic specifications:

For one cat – Minimum size: 12″ x 18″ x 12″

For three to four cats – 24″ x 24″ x 18″ (ideal, because cats share body heat)

Maximum size – Don't go much larger than 24″ x 24″ x 18″ unless you have many cats. An oversized shelter stays just as cold as the outside air.

Cats are social sleepers in winter. They curl up together, and that collective warmth is incredibly effective. If you have multiple outdoor cats, build for three or four—even if you only see one or two now. Others will likely show up.

Step 2: Pick Your Shelter Material

You have several options for the outer shell. Each works fine as long as you add insulation inside.

Plastic storage totes – Cheap, waterproof, and easy to modify. Large 30-gallon totes work well.

Wooden boxes – More durable and natural-looking, but heavier. Use exterior-grade plywood.

Foam shipping containers – Sturdy foam boxes (like those used for medical shipments) are pre-insulated. Just cut a hole and you're mostly done.

Commercial cat houses – If you buy one from a pet supply store, check whether it's already insulated. Many aren't.

Whatever you choose, make sure the shelter is raised off the ground. We'll talk about that more in the placement section.

Step 3: How to Insulate a Cat House – The Core Methods

Now we get to the heart of the tutorial. Here's how to insulate a cat house using materials you can find at any hardware store.

Method 1: Foam Board Insulation

This is the most common and effective method.

What you need:

1–2 inch thick rigid foam insulation (pink or blue boards from hardware stores)

Utility knife or saw

Adhesive (construction adhesive or spray adhesive)

Weatherproof tape

Steps:

Cut the foam boards to fit the floor, walls, and ceiling of your shelter.

Glue the foam pieces in place. For plastic totes, adhesive sticks better if you lightly sand the plastic first.

Tape the seams between foam pieces to prevent air leaks.

For extra cold climates, add a layer of reflective Mylar or foil-faced foam. This reflects the cats' body heat back inside.

Method 2: Double-Tote Method (Also Called Double-Decker)

This is a clever trick that requires no cutting of foam boards.

What you need:

Two plastic storage totes – one roughly 20% smaller than the other

Insulating material to fill the gap (spray foam, straw, or Styrofoam peanuts)

Drill or saw for cutting entrance holes

Steps:

Cut an entrance hole in the smaller tote and the larger tote, making sure the holes align.

Place the smaller tote inside the larger one.

Fill the gap between the two totes with insulation. Spray foam works great but is permanent. Loose Styrofoam peanuts are easy but less neat.

Seal the gap at the top with a piece of foam board or plywood.

Add bedding inside the inner tote.

The air gap between the two totes acts as insulation. This method is quick and very effective.

Method 3: Reflective Insulation

For mild winters or as a supplement to other methods, reflective bubble insulation (Mylar bubble wrap) works well.

How to use it:

Line the interior walls with Mylar bubble pack (the kind used for shipping tropical fish—pet stores may give this away for free).

The shiny surface reflects heat back toward the cat.

Combine this with foam board for best results.

Step 4: Cut the Entrance Hole Properly

The entrance is the weak point of any insulated shelter. Get this wrong, and all your insulation work goes out the window—literally.

Size: 5 to 6 inches in diameter. That's it. Cats can squeeze through openings much smaller than you think. If their head fits, their body fits. A small hole:

Retains heat

Blocks raccoons and larger predators

Prevents snow and rain from blowing in

Shape: Round or square doesn't matter. Use a drill with a hole saw or a jigsaw.

Placement: Cut the hole midway between the floor and ceiling, but off to one side (not centered). Why? This keeps straw from falling out and reduces drafts. It also leaves a warm corner at the back where cats can curl up away from the entrance.

Optional flap: Add a heavy vinyl or rubber flap over the entrance. Cats can push through it, but it blocks wind and snow. Introduce it gradually—prop it open for a few days so cats get used to it.

Step 5: The Right Bedding – This Is Critical

Here's where most people make a mistake. Never use blankets, towels, or newspaper in an outdoor cat house in winter.

Why? Blankets and towels absorb moisture from the cat's breath, wet paws, and humidity. That moisture freezes overnight. Instead of keeping the cat warm, the bedding becomes a block of ice that actually steals heat from the cat's body. Mold is another problem.

The Only Bedding You Should Use: Straw

Straw

Hay

Hollow, shiny, yellow

Dull, greenish

Repels moisture

Absorbs moisture

Used for bedding

Used as animal feed

Stays dry and warm

Molds and rots

Not hay. Straw. They look similar but are very different.

Where to buy straw: Garden centers, home improvement stores, farm supply stores, and even some craft stores. Fall is the best time to find it. Small decorative bales cost more but a little goes a long way when fluffed up.

How much to use: Fill the shelter about one-third to one-half full with straw, fluffed up. Cats will flatten it as they sleep, and some like to tunnel into it for extra warmth. Check periodically and replace damp or flattened straw.

What About Cats Allergic to Straw?

In rare cases, cats may develop skin rashes or sneezing from straw. For those cats, use:

Polar fleece (only if the shelter is fully waterproof—fleece holds moisture otherwise)

Heat-reflective cat mats (Mylar-lined)

Polyester thermal pads

These are safe alternatives, but straw remains the gold standard for most situations.

Step 6: Insulate the Floor Too

Don't forget the floor. Cold ground sucks heat out of anything resting on it.

Options for floor insulation:

A layer of foam board under the bedding

A wooden pallet or 2×4 lumber attached to the bottom (this also raises the shelter)

Several inches of straw packed tightly beneath the shelter

If you use the double-tote method, the gap between the totes insulates the floor automatically.

Step 7: Raise the Shelter Off the Ground

A shelter sitting directly on the ground will get:

Cold seeping up from the earth

Rain splashing into the entrance

Snow blocking the doorway

How to elevate:

Place bricks or concrete blocks under each corner

Set the shelter on a wooden pallet

Build a simple platform from 2×4 lumber

Use rubber pavers for a bit of give and extra insulation

Raise the shelter at least 2–3 inches, more if you live in a snowy area.

Step 8: Add Weight – Keep It from Blowing Away

Lightweight shelters (especially plastic totes) can tip over or blow away in strong winds.

Weigh it down by:

Placing rocks, bricks, or a piece of plywood on top

Building a wooden frame around the base

Attaching 2×4 lumber to the bottom (adds weight and raises the shelter at the same time)

If you have multiple shelters, face two toward each other with a plywood roof connecting them. This creates a "breezeway" entrance that blocks wind and adds stability.

Step 9: Placement – Location Is Everything

You can build the perfect insulated cat house outdoor, but if you put it in the wrong spot, cats won't use it.

Best locations:

Under a porch or deck

Against an exterior wall of your house or garage (the building radiates some heat)

Inside an unheated shed or barn

Behind a fence or hedge that blocks wind

What to avoid:

Open, exposed areas

Low spots where water collects

Directly under roof drips or gutter downspouts

High-traffic areas with dogs, people, or loud noises

Orientation: Point the entrance away from prevailing winds. If wind usually comes from the north, face the hole south. Even better, place the shelter so the entrance faces a wall or fence—this creates a windbreak and gives cats a quick escape route if a predator approaches.

Camouflage (if needed): In some neighborhoods, a visible cat shelter might attract unwanted attention or be mistaken for trash. Paint the shelter to blend in with surroundings—brown, green, or gray. Place potted plants or bushes around it. Out of sight often means safer for the cats.

Step 10: Optional – Adding Gentle Heat

In extreme climates (below 0°F / -18°C), you might want supplemental heat. But be careful.

Safe options:

Outdoor pet heating pads – There are brands that design safe heating pads specifically for outdoor use. When using one, only cover part of the floor so the cat can move to an unheated area if too warm.

Microwaveable heat packs – These stay warm for several hours. Place them under the straw.

Hot water bottles – Wrap in a towel (the only acceptable use of a towel here) and place under straw.

Unsafe options:

Space heaters (fire risk)

Human heating pads (not designed for outdoor use)

Incandescent light bulbs (fire risk and cats can break them)

Most cats don't need added heat if the shelter is well-insulated and filled with straw. Their own body heat, plus the body heat of other cats, is remarkably effective.

Maintenance – Check Regularly Even in Winter

An outdoor cat house in winter needs periodic checks. Once a week is good; after heavy rain or snow, check sooner.

What to look for:

Wet or flattened straw – replace as needed

Snow blocking the entrance – clear it

Damage from wind, animals, or people – repair promptly

Mold or mildew – if you see either, you have a moisture problem. Improve ventilation (add a small second hole near the top) or switch to straw that's less packed.

Cats actually using it – if they're not, try moving the shelter or changing the bedding

Quick Recap: How to Insulate a Cat House in 10 Steps

Choose the right size – cozy, not cavernous.

Pick a durable outer shell – plastic tote, wood box, or foam container.

Insulate walls and ceiling – foam board, double-tote method, or reflective Mylar.

Cut a small entrance – 5–6 inches, off-center.

Use straw for bedding – never blankets or towels.

Insulate the floor – foam board or thick straw layer.

Raise off the ground – bricks, pallet, or lumber.

Add weight – rocks, bricks, or plywood on top.

Place strategically – against a wall, facing away from wind.

Check weekly – replace damp straw and clear snow.

Final Thoughts

Building an insulated cat house outdoor isn't complicated, and the difference it makes is enormous. A warm, dry shelter turns a freezing winter night from a survival struggle into a comfortable sleep.

If you're looking for ready-made options, check out the cat houses, cat beds, and outdoor shelters on our site. We also carry dog houses and dog beds if you have outdoor pups to protect. But even with a basic DIY tote and some straw, you're already doing something heroic for the cats in your care.

Stay warm out there. And so will they.

If you've noticed stray cats in your neighborhood, you might worry about them when winter arrives. While cats can develop a thicker coat, this "winter wear" alone isn’t enough to protect them from prolonged cold and damp conditions.

As we enjoy a warm drink indoors, it’s hard not to think of those huddled figures in alleyways, under cars, or in corners—can they really make it through the harsh winter? In reality, many stray cats do face a survival crisis in the cold months. They often lack steady food, clean water, and a dry, warm place to shelter.

Fortunately, a few simple acts of kindness from us can make a real difference. Below are practical, proven ways to help—perhaps even turning you into a "warm haven" for them this winter.

How Stray Cats Survive the Winter​

In cold weather, the biggest threats to stray cats are not just the low temperatures, but dampness and difficulty finding food. They instinctively seek shelter in hidden spots—like under car hoods, in basements, or inside drainage shafts—relying on their body heat to warm these small spaces. But once heavy snow, freezing rain, or extreme cold sets in, these makeshift shelters often fail to protect them.

A Practical Guide to Helping Stray Cats in Winter​

Helping stray cats doesn’t mean you have to bring them indoors. Providing the basics outdoors—food, clean water, and a weatherproof shelter—is already a great act of kindness.

1. Solving the "Food & Water" Problem: Preventing Freezing​

When temperatures drop below freezing, ordinary water and food can turn to ice quickly, leaving cats unable to eat or drink. This can easily lead to dehydration and loss of energy.

What you can do: Use a heated bowl​ designed for pets. This will keep water and food from freezing, ensuring cats can always access nourishment.

2. Creating a Cozy Refuge: The Outdoor Cat House for Winter​

Instead of letting cats risk hiding in cold, dangerous spots, you can offer them a dedicated shelter.

Ready-made option: Look for a heated cat house outdoor, like those available from pet house mall, which often feature dual exits (to prevent trapping) and built-in heating.

DIY approach: You can make a simple shelter using a foam cooler or waterproof storage bin. Cut an entrance, line the inside with straw (avoid blankets or towels, which hold moisture), and add a heated cat pad​ for extra warmth. Keep an extra pad cover on hand for easy cleaning and rotation.

3. Adding a "Rest Zone": Heated Bed for Outdoor Cats​

If cats often gather in semi-sheltered spots like under a deck, in a garage, or on a covered porch, consider placing a heated outdoor pet bed​ there. It gives them a soft, warm place to rest while preserving the seclusion they prefer.

In Closing​

Stray and feral cats are resilient, but as winters grow harsher, they can use our support. You don’t need to touch them—just leaving out a bowl of warm water, some food, or a simple shelter can offer a lifeline.

This winter, let’s be the quiet guardians in our communities, sharing warmth in small, meaningful ways.

stray cat finds warm house

 During the bitter cold of winter, people can retreat into warm rooms, turn up the heat, enjoy a hot drink, and pass the season in comfort. But in the corners of our cities, there is another group of quiet “residents” — stray cats — struggling against low temperatures, hunger, and damp conditions with nothing but their instincts and experience. Many people wonder: Can they really survive the winter? And what can we do to help them safely and effectively?

This article takes a practical, hands-on approach to explain how to help stray cats get through the winter, while also introducing useful solutions such as cat houses and cat beds—so you can move from simply understanding the issue to actually making a difference.

1. Can Stray Cats Really Survive the Winter?

First, it’s important to understand that stray cats do have a certain level of survival ability.

They will:

Look for sheltered spots (basements, under cars, hallways, sheds)

Use their fur to retain body heat

Stay close together to share warmth (some cats will huddle in groups)

However, this doesn’t mean they are doing well.

In reality:

Extremely low temperatures can cause frostbite or even death

Lack of food leads to reduced energy and weakened immunity

Rain, snow, and damp conditions are even more dangerous than dry cold

So while stray cats may be able to survive, it doesn’t mean they don’t need help. Even a small act from you could completely change a cat’s fate.

2. Core Principles for Helping Stray Cats

If you truly want to help, keep these three principles in mind:

1. Provide basic survival needs

Food

Water

Shelter from wind and rain

2. Don’t force interaction

Many stray cats are still wary of humans. Forcing contact can create stress rather than help.

3.Consistency matters more than one-time effort

Feed at the same time every day

Place shelters in a fixed location

→ This helps cats develop a sense of safety and routine.

3. When a Stray Cat Finds a Warm House, It’s the Most Critical Step in Winter

For stray cats in winter, staying warm matters more than simply being fed.

Many cats will desperately search for places to escape the cold, such as:

Car engine compartments (very dangerous)

Pipe gaps

Piles of debris

Old cardboard boxes

While these spots may block some wind, they are often:

Not waterproof

Poor at retaining heat

Potentially unsafe

If you can provide a stable and secure shelter, it’s essentially helping a stray cat find a warm house—and that can be one of the most valuable things you can do.

4. Outdoor Cat House for Winter: The Most Recommended Solution

If you can only do one thing, make it this:

Set up an outdoor cat house for winter

Why is it so important?

A well-designed outdoor cat house can:

Block wind and rain

Retain internal warmth

Provide a sense of security (reducing stress)

How to choose the right one?

Focus on these key factors:

1. Waterproof materials

Plastic shells or waterproof fabric

Avoid exposing cardboard directly outdoors

2. Insulated structure

Interior should retain heat

Not too large (smaller spaces trap body heat better)

3. Two-door design (very important)

Prevents animals from getting trapped

Improves safety

4. Stability

Should not tip over easily in strong winds

In practice, products from brands like pet house mall focus on these essentials—waterproofing, insulation, and structural stability—making them suitable for long-term outdoor use.

5. Heated Cat House Outdoor: A Lifesaving Option in Extreme Cold

If temperatures in your area drop to or below freezing, a standard shelter may not be enough. That’s when you should consider upgrading to a:

heated cat house outdoor

What does it do?

• Provides consistent warmth (usually slightly above ambient temperature)

• Prevents a dangerous drop in body temperature

• Greatly increases survival chances

Is it safe?

Quality products typically include:

• Waterproof power design

• Low energy heating systems

• Automatic temperature control

When used properly, they are generally safe.

Who is it for?

• People in very cold regions

• Areas with frequent snow or ice

• Those who regularly care for stray cats

If you’re willing to invest a bit more, this is one of the most direct and effective ways to help.

6. DIY Cat Shelter: A Low-Cost Way to Help

If you prefer not to buy a ready-made product, you can build one yourself.

Simple setup:

Materials:

• Plastic storage bin (preferred) or thick cardboard

• Foam board or insulation material

• Waterproof covering

• Straw (warmer than fabric and doesn’t absorb moisture)

Steps:

1.Cut a small entrance hole on the side (just big enough for a cat)

2.Line the interior with straw (avoid towels—they absorb moisture and get cold)

3.Wrap the outside with waterproof material

4.Place it in a sheltered area (corner, under a roof, etc.)

Even a simple shelter like this can significantly improve a cat’s chances of survival.

7. Food and Water: Don’t Overlook the Details

Shelter is essential, but food and water matter just as much.

1. Food tips

Cats need more calories in winter:

• High-protein dry food

• Wet food (easier to digest)

• Feed in smaller, more frequent portions

2. Water issues (often overlooked)

The biggest challenge is freezing.

Solutions:

• Use a heated water bowl (most effective)

• Or replace with warm water frequently

8. Cat Beds and Heating Pads: Improving Comfort

If cats already frequent a specific area (such as a garage, porch, or backyard), you can upgrade their environment:

• Add a waterproof cat bed

• Use an outdoor heating pad

Products like those from pet house mall can:

• Provide a softer resting surface

• Reduce cold from the ground

• Encourage cats to stay in safer locations

9. Common Concerns

1. Will this attract more cats?

Possibly—but that’s not necessarily a bad thing:

• It allows more organized feeding

• Makes TNR efforts easier

2. Will neighbors be bothered?

Suggestions:

• Keep the area clean

• Avoid blocking pathways

• Choose discreet locations

10. The Most Effective Long-Term Solution: TNR

If you want to address the issue at its root, consider:

TNR (Trap-Neuter-Return)

It helps:

• Control population growth

• Reduce fighting and disease

• Improve overall quality of life

Combining winter care with TNR is the most practical long-term strategy.

Final Thoughts: Your Small Action Means Their Entire Winter

For us, placing a shelter, putting out food, or offering water may only take a few minutes.

But for a stray cat, it can mean:

• Not freezing

• Not starving

• Having a chance to survive the winter

Every time I walk past a street corner and see those small figures curled up in cold corners, my heart aches. You might not know this, but winter is especially tough for stray cats—data from animal protection organizations shows that their mortality rate in winter is a full 60% higher than in other seasons.

Actually, what we can do for these little ones is simpler than you might think. Building an outdoor cat house​ can be a real sanctuary for them. It’s not difficult, doesn’t cost much, and could be a lifesaver for them during the harsh winter.

Let me show you how to make a reliable insulated cat house.

When I made my first cat shelter, I made quite a few mistakes. Through trial and error, I’ve found that this basic version is both simple and practical.

The key is choosing the right insulation material. Common foam boards aren’t great—they tend to absorb moisture. I now use XPS extruded polystyrene boards (2.5 cm thick works well) because they have a closed-cell structure that effectively blocks moisture and cold.

Step-by-step guide:

Use waterproof plywood (1.2 cm thick) to create inner and outer layers.

Place the XPS board snugly between the layers, and seal all gaps with aluminum foil tape.

Hang two transparent plastic curtains at the entrance, leaving about 8 cm of space between them to create a good "airlock."

Raise the entire shelter 3 cm off the ground, and sprinkle food-grade diatomaceous earth inside to prevent insects.

Line the roof with automotive soundproofing insulation—it’s great for warmth.

Finally, coat it with pet-safe waterproof paint, paying extra attention to the edges and corners.

A cat shelter made this way can stay at least 5°C warmer inside when it’s -10°C outside. That’s enough for a stray cat to find a warm house​ and sleep safely through the night.

When it’s extremely cold, you might need a heated cat house.

If winters in your area regularly drop below -10°C, or if you’re caring for older, weaker, or sick cats, you might want to consider a heating solution.

After testing for three winters, I’ve found that a dedicated pet heating pad is the most reliable option. Make sure it has a high waterproof rating (like IP68) and doesn’t need high wattage—20W is plenty.

Installation method, safety first:

Lay waterproof board at the bottom.

Place the heating pad in the middle.

Cover it with a 3 mm cork mat (to distribute heat evenly and prevent burns).

Run all wires from the back and cover them with chew-resistant tubing. Keeping the temperature between 8°C and 25°C is ideal—a veterinarian friend told me this range is most comfortable for cats.

Important reminder:​ Don’t use human electric blankets! There were quite a few accidents because of these last winter. If you don’t have access to electricity, you can try "self-heating" phase-change material pads that absorb heat during the day and release it at night.

Remember to check the wiring monthly—safety should always come first.

Place it in the right spot, and your cat house will be "favored."

When I first started making cat shelters, I once waited a whole month without a single visitor. I later realized location is everything.

Three simple things to remember:

Keep it inconspicuous—place it in a corner where people won’t easily notice it.

Near the cats’ routes—close to paths they frequently use.

Provide cover—against a wall or bushes so they feel secure.

A spot against a south-facing wall, 30–50 cm away, works well. It benefits from the wall’s residual warmth, and if there’s trouble, it’s easy to escape. Remember to raise it slightly with bricks—don’t place it directly on the ground.

At first, you can sprinkle a little catnip to attract them, and then be patient. Usually, within 7–14 days, cautious visitors will come to check it out.

The most touching story I’ve heard is from a volunteer in Minnesota: the heated cat house​ she made was used by a neutered orange cat for three months. Later, the cat actually brought four kittens to move in. A stray cat finds a warm house​ and then passes that sense of security on—that’s the best reward.

One last thing

Every outdoor cat house​ glowing softly (if it’s heated) in the cold night is a promise of warmth. You might not see it, but little lives will make it through another winter because of your kindness.

They curl up inside, going from wary to relaxed, from tense to peaceful—it’s a sight you won’t forget.

When you find your cat urinating on your bed, it’s easy to feel frustrated. Not only does it add to your cleaning chores, but it also raises concerns that it might happen again. You might even worry that your cat is doing it on purpose — to get back at you.

In fact, cats do not urinate outside the litter box, including on beds, out of anger or a desire for revenge. When a cat urinates on a bed, it is usually a sign that something is wrong — whether it’s a health issue or emotional stress and anxiety.

Why Is My Cat Peeing on the Bed?

1. Stress and Anxiety

Stress and anxiety are common reasons why cats urinate on beds. Various factors can cause stress in cats, including:

• Environmental changes

• Changes in household members

• Renovations or construction at home

When a cat feels stressed, it may choose to leave its scent on soft surfaces like beds. This is because urine contains pheromones, and the familiar scent can help the cat feel a sense of security and comfort.

2. Urinary Tract Stones and Crystals

Stones and crystals in the urinary tract can cause a cat to urinate on the bed, as they irritate the bladder lining, leading to frequent urges to urinate.

When a cat feels an urgent need to urinate, it may not be able to reach the litter box in time. It may also associate the litter box with discomfort, leading it to choose a more comfortable spot, such as a soft bed, instead of the litter box.

3. Urinary Tract Infection

A urinary tract infection can also irritate the bladder lining, causing frequent and urgent urination in cats. The discomfort during urination may lead the cat to develop a negative association with the litter box, especially if the litter feels rough. To alleviate the pain, cats often seek out softer surfaces, such as a bed, to urinate on.

4. Bladder Tumors

Though rare, cats are also at risk of developing bladder cancer. Since cancer is usually accompanied by inflammation, tumors can irritate the bladder lining, leading to frequent urination in cats.

Cats may choose to urinate on the bed for convenience and comfort, as bladder cancer can be painful.

5. Urinary Incontinence

Urinary incontinence (inability to control urination) in cats can cause urine to leak onto any surface where the cat rests, including your bed.

Urinary incontinence itself can stem from various causes, such as nerve damage, urethral obstruction, feline leukemia virus infection, or malformations of the urethra or ureters (the tubes that carry urine from the kidneys to the bladder).

6. Kidney Disease

Kidney disease can cause cats to urinate more frequently because the affected kidneys are unable to concentrate urine and retain water as effectively as healthy kidneys. As a result, cats may feel the urge to urinate more often and may not make it to the litter box in time, leading to urine ending up on your bed.

7. Diabetes

Diabetes can lead to an increase in urine output, as the body needs to excrete excess blood sugar through the kidneys. In the process, the kidneys also draw in more water, resulting in greater urine production. As a result, cats with diabetes need to urinate more frequently and, if faced with urgency, may do so on the bed.

8. Arthritis

Arthritis in senior cats can be very painful, potentially making it difficult for them to use a standard litter box comfortably. If an older cat is resting on the bed and needs to urinate, it may choose to do so on the bed rather than getting down to go to the litter box, especially if the litter box is located at a distance.

9. Cognitive Dysfunction

Cognitive dysfunction (decline in mental function) typically occurs in cats over 10 years old and can also lead to inappropriate urination on the bed. Cognitive dysfunction may cause cats to forget the location of the litter box, leading them to urinate on the nearest available surface—which, in some cases, may be your bed.

10. Litter Box Aversion

Many cats have clear preferences regarding the location, size, and type of litter in their litter box.

If the litter box is placed too close to their food and water bowls, located in a noisy area or near loud appliances, is too small, or uses unsuitable litter, the cat may avoid using the litter box and instead choose to urinate on the bed.

In such cases, the soft and clean bedding may become an ideal alternative to the litter box, especially since sheets are often washed after accidents, and the bedroom is typically a relatively open and quiet space. This can unintentionally reinforce the cat’s tendency to urinate there.

How to Stop Your Cat from Urinating on the Bed

To prevent your cat from urinating on the bed, it is essential to identify and address the underlying cause of this behavior.

First, take your cat to a veterinarian for a check-up. Tests such as urinalysis and blood work can help rule out health issues like urinary tract diseases, kidney problems, diabetes, or arthritis. Maintain a stable daily routine, provide your cat with safe hiding spots and resting areas, and consider using pheromone products to help them relax. Thoroughly clean the bedding with an enzymatic cleaner to remove odor residues, and consider temporarily restricting your cat’s access to the bedroom for a short period.

In addition to the reasons mentioned above, a kitten urinating on the bed may also be due to the lack of a comfortable and secure dedicated resting spot. At PetHouseMall, we offer a variety of soft and easy-to-clean cat beds designed to create a quiet, relaxing, and independent space for your cat. This helps alleviate their stress, establish proper litter box habits, and allows your feline friend to rest more peacefully.

 Maintaining the cleanliness of pet supplies for cats and dogs is a challenge every owner faces. However, regular cleaning and maintenance are essential for items like plastic toys, food bowls, and plush dog beds. Dirty pet products are prone to breeding bacteria, which directly affects the health of pets. This guide will systematically introduce how to effectively clean and care for pet bedding and toys, ensuring they remain clean and safe.

Why is the maintenance of pet bedding and toys important

Keeping pet beds and toys clean goes far beyond mere surface cleaning—it is crucial for protecting the health of pets. Over time, pet hair, dirt, saliva, and bacteria can accumulate on pet supplies, turning them into breeding grounds for germs. Dirty items may lead to skin infections, respiratory issues, or even hidden dangers if pets lick or chew on them.

Regular cleaning not only helps remove harmful bacteria but also extends the lifespan of your pet’s favorite items. For example, routinely washing dog beds keeps them soft and fluffy while eliminating odors and excess pet hair. Similarly, regularly cleaning pet toys ensures their condition remains safe, prevents bacterial buildup, and guarantees that playtime stays worry-free.

How to clean pet toys

Regularly cleaning pet toys can prevent the buildup of harmful bacteria and the development of odors. Whether your dog enjoys tug-of-war games or loves cuddling with a plush toy at night, here are methods for cleaning various common pet supplies:

Cleaning fabric and plush toys

Prepare the toy: Place plush toys or fabric rope toys in a mesh laundry bag to protect them from damage during the washing process.

Choose the right settings: Use a gentle wash cycle with cold water to prevent damage to the fabric, built-in squeakers, or stuffing.

Avoid harsh chemicals: Do not use bleach or fabric softeners, as these contain harmful chemicals that may irritate your pet or damage the toy.

Dry properly: After washing, allow the toy to dry completely naturally. High heat from a dryer can cause squeakers to melt or plastic parts to warp.

Cleaning Rubber, Plastic, and Hard Toys

Thorough scrubbing: Use a brush dipped in warm water and pet-safe detergent to clean crevices and grooves where dirt and bacteria often hide.

Natural disinfectant: Soak toys in a 1:1 mixture of white vinegar and water for a few minutes for natural disinfection, avoiding harsh chemicals.

Rinse thoroughly: Rinse the toys with warm water to ensure all soap and vinegar residues are washed away until completely clean.

Dry completely: Allow the toys to dry thoroughly before returning them to your pet to prevent mold or bacterial growth on damp surfaces.

Maintenance of Rope and Tug Toys

Shake off debris: Before cleaning, shake or brush rope or tug toys to remove dust, hair, or debris trapped between fibers.

Pre-treat stubborn stains: If the toys have noticeable dirt or buildup, soak them in warm water with a small amount of pet-safe detergent to help loosen stains before washing.

Wash with care: Place rope toys in a mesh laundry bag to prevent tangling, and use a gentle cycle with warm water for thorough cleaning.

Avoid chemicals: Refrain from using bleach, fabric softeners, or other harsh cleaners that may leave harmful residues your pet could ingest while chewing.

Dry thoroughly: Allow rope toys to dry completely to prevent moisture from fostering mold or bacterial growth.

Safe Disinfection of Pet Toys

When disinfecting pet toys, do not use bleach or strong antibacterial soaps, as accidental ingestion can be harmful to pets. It is recommended to choose more natural disinfection methods, such as soaking the toys in a 1:1 mixture of white vinegar and water. This method can effectively kill bacteria while being safe and non-toxic for pets. After soaking, be sure to rinse the toys thoroughly with clean water to remove any residual vinegar and ensure the toys are completely clean.

How to Clean Pet Beds

Just as we regularly change and wash our own bedding, it is equally important to clean the resting spots for our furry companions, and it requires the use of pet-specific detergents. Below are detailed steps on how to effectively clean cat and dog beds:

Step 1: Remove Pet Hair and Debris

Before washing a pet bed, the first step is to remove as much pet hair and dirt as possible. Most dog beds, especially plush ones, accumulate hair within the fibers. Start by using a vacuum or lint roller to remove loose hair. For more stubborn hair, a pet-specific hairbrush or rubber gloves can be helpful. Removing excess hair before washing helps prevent clogging the washing machine.

Step 2: Wash with Specialized Detergent

After removing pet hair, proceed with washing. Be sure to check the product label for any special cleaning instructions. Most pet beds can be machine-washed on a gentle cycle with warm water, as warm water helps eliminate some bacteria. Use a pet-specific detergent, as regular laundry detergents may contain harsh chemicals or fragrances that could irritate your pet’s skin or coat.

For better cleaning results and to protect the bed, it is recommended to place the pet bed inside a laundry mesh bag before washing. Select a gentle or standard cycle, and unless otherwise specified, avoid using hot water to prevent fabric shrinkage or deformation.

Step 3: Drying the Bed

After washing, it is generally recommended to air-dry pet beds naturally to maintain their shape and fabric integrity. High temperatures can damage or shrink materials, reducing the bed’s comfort. Air-drying also helps prevent mold growth, especially for pet beds with thick padding.

How often should pet bedding and toys be cleaned?

The cleaning frequency depends on how often your pet uses their bed and toys. Generally, it is recommended to wash dog beds at least once a month, or more frequently if the pet spends a lot of time outdoors. Pet toys, especially those used for chewing or outdoor play, should be cleaned every two weeks to remove dirt, bacteria, and saliva.

If your pet has allergies or sensitive skin, consider washing their items more frequently. Clean toys and bedding not only protect your pet from harmful bacteria but also help reduce the buildup of allergens like dust and pet dander.

Discover easy-to-clean dog beds, cat beds, and more pet supplies at Pet House Mall.

If you have a dog at home, you may notice some peculiar bedtime rituals—like circling a dozen times before settling down or stubbornly bunching up their favorite blanket into a ball. Even more commonly, they often scratch and dig at their beds, leaving scattered bits of dog bed stuffing all over the floor.

Have you ever wondered: Why do dogs scratch their beds before sleeping? Does every dog do this? What are the underlying reasons behind these behaviors, and how can pet owners address them?

To understand the origin of this bedtime scratching behavior, we first need to delve into the history of dogs. Before becoming our beloved furry roommates and family members, dogs once lived in the wild. During this time, their wild ancestors developed certain habits that may seem strange to us now but were crucial for their survival. This might explain why behaviors like digging and other destructive actions are so hard to train out of dogs—it’s an innate instinct in your pup.

For wild dogs, learning to build a shelter was one of the keys to survival. This is often reflected in the territorial behaviors of domestic dogs. Many actions of modern-day dogs still carry echoes of these ancient instincts. In cold or damp environments, digging a shallow pit could provide warmth, while using leaves or dry grass to create a nest made hard ground more comfortable. Essentially, these actions were their way of “making a bed.”

Although domestic dogs no longer live in the wild—no, dog parks don’t count—and they no longer need to build shelters for survival, the instinct to dig can still kick in when they’re about to lie down.

Pethousemall Dog Bed

Our durable dog bed is a perfect sleep environment designed around canine behavior.

Other Common Reasons Why Dogs Dig on Beds

However, the instinct to build a shelter is not the only reason why dogs dig in their beds. Here are other reasons why household pets scratch during the night:

To Mark Territory—Like cats and many other four-legged animals, dogs have scent glands in their paw pads that secrete unique pheromones. Scratching something allows dogs to mark their bed as their own, signaling to others that it belongs to them.

Curiosity—Another reason dogs dig is to investigate something. If they suspect something interesting, like leftover food or a toy, might be hidden under the mattress, they may try to dig it out.

Anxiety—If your dog’s digging becomes compulsive and seems to make them more nervous rather than calm, it could be a sign of underlying anxiety. If you are concerned about this, it’s best to consult a veterinarian.

3 Ways to Protect Your Dog's Bed from Scratching

While your dog's digging habits may be adorable, they can also be quite destructive at times. If you're not careful, a brand-new pet bed can quickly become "shredded," with fabric and stuffing scattered everywhere—a headache for many owners.

But don't worry, there are steps you can take to prevent this from happening, allowing your dog to enjoy its bed.

1.Trim Your Dog's Nails

Your dog can always benefit from a good nail trim—regular nail trimming can help reduce the damage it causes to its sleeping area. Dogs typically need their nails trimmed every 3-4 weeks. Routine trimming not only prevents potential damage to furniture or hardwood floors but also helps avoid nail infections.

2.Provide Other Forms of Play

If your dog has turned bed-scratching into a game rather than a soothing nighttime ritual, it might be because they aren't getting enough stimulation. Try taking them for walks or giving them toys that keep them occupied.

3. Soothe Your Anxious Dog

If anxiety is the primary cause of your dog’s bed-scratching and digging behavior, look for ways to help them cope. Anxious dogs often have excess energy. You can help alleviate your dog’s anxiety through the following methods:

Exercise — Similar to humans, exercise works wonders for mental stimulation and stress relief. Taking your dog for walks or engaging in play can help burn off some of that anxious energy.

Anxiety-Reducing Clothing — This concept is similar to swaddling a baby. These specially designed garments apply gentle, continuous pressure around your dog’s torso, which can have a calming effect.

Massage — Our dogs resemble us in many ways, and just like us, they often enjoy massages. Anxiety can lead to muscle tension, and massage helps relax tight muscles and soothe your dog. During this time, offer plenty of hugs, gentle talking, and physical contact so they feel more at ease when it’s time to sleep.

4. Invest in a More Durable Bed

Sometimes, the issue isn't with your dog but rather the bed they're using. Cheap beds made of basic fabric and filling simply can't withstand the nightly digging and scratching of an active dog. That's why it’s important to invest in a bed with a durable cover. Plus, a comfortable bed can reduce the need for excessive digging to achieve a cozy resting spot. In such cases, investing in a memory foam dog bed might be a great idea for both you and your furry friend.

Considering dogs’ natural urge to scratch, pethousemall dog beds are specially crafted with a proprietary, scratch-resistant fabric designed to withstand daily digging. The texture of this fabric is carefully engineered to mimic the feel of loose soil when scratched, satisfying your dog’s instinct to dig without causing tears or excessive shedding. And with a removable, machine-washable cover, learninghow to clean a dog bed has never been easier.

Provide Beds for Every Member of Your Family

pethousemall dog beds cater to the needs of every member of your household—including your furry ones! Give your dog a comfortable place to sleep with a bed designed to resist scratching and digging. If your dog isn't already dozing off, they’re sure to love their new bed. Whether your beloved pup sleeps on their side, in the "lion pose," or loves to snuggle, a restful and secure sleep is guaranteed in any sleeping position.

Before the cold winter arrives, building a warm and windproof doghouse for your dog is something every responsible owner should consider in advance, as many dog breeds simply cannot tolerate the harsh cold and the discomfort it brings.

In fact, improving your dog's winter environment is not complicated. One option is to add insulation to an existing doghouse, and the other is to build a new one from scratch. The latter takes at most a few days, costs very little, and yields remarkably effective results.

Here are some practical suggestions on how to provide your pet with a warm backyard doghouse for the winter, covering everything from location and materials to construction details, guiding you step by step in creating a safe and cozy shelter for your dog.

Key Steps to Building an Insulated Doghouse Yourself

Starting from scratch to build a doghouse is the best choice, as it allows you to tailor the design to your dog's size, height, and breed-specific needs. Here are the steps to building a doghouse:

If you plan to build the doghouse out of wood, be sure to treat it with a pet-safe wood preservative.

Check every part of the doghouse structure for cracks and holes, and use foam sealant to fill them if necessary. Also, ensure the doghouse is completely sealed.

Add insulation material to the floor, then install the floor finish. If needed, waterproof the wall cladding and secure the insulation material to the walls of the doghouse.

The final step is insulating the roof.

When selecting the size and structure of the doghouse, consider the following:

The internal height of the doghouse should generally match its width. Ensure your dog can stand fully upright and turn around naturally inside. After insulation, the roof height should not exceed the height of your dog’s shoulder blades to minimize heat loss.

The length or depth of the doghouse should allow your dog to lie down comfortably and stretch out its front paws.

The entrance should have a threshold, and consider adding a thick, soft windproof flap to retain warmth inside and keep snow and moisture out.

Consider the Doghouse Location

The doghouse should be placed in a sunny, sheltered spot in the yard to absorb solar energy during the day.

Additionally, you can paint the doghouse a dark color to increase its absorption of sunlight. Lastly, make sure the door faces away from the prevailing wind direction.

Choosing Insulation Materials

Generally, two main factors should be considered when selecting insulation materials for a doghouse. First, the material must be non-toxic, eco-friendly, and free of irritating odors to avoid triggering allergies or aggressive behavior in dogs. Second, the material should not absorb moisture, as this can cause it to lose its insulating properties over time.

Several options are available, each with its own advantages and disadvantages:

Foam plastic is a simple insulation material for doghouses. Since foam itself has good weather resistance, waterproofing is not necessary. However, because dogs may try to scratch or damage the insulation, it still needs to be covered. It is recommended to use polystyrene foam (commonly known as "foam plastic") for insulating doghouses.

This material is entirely natural, safe, and non-toxic for pets, making it an ideal and affordable option for warming pet houses. Due to its good breathability, it prevents moisture buildup inside the doghouse, so no waterproofing is required. Using felt material also eliminates the need for covering—simply secure it with nails.

Mineral wool is one of the most commonly used insulation materials. However, if you intend to use it for insulation, there are some details to consider. Dogs may chew or tear at the insulation with their paws, causing it to lose its effectiveness. Due to the structural properties of mineral wool, if ingested by pets, it could pose health risks. Whether construction is indoors or outdoors, waterproofing both the material and the exterior walls is essential.

Other materials include polyethylene and polystyrene foam, which are commonly used due to their good insulating properties and ease of installation with a staple gun in outdoor settings. Other materials suitable for insulation include laminate, polystyrene foam sheets, and even ordinary polystyrene foam.

Therefore, you can choose any option that fits your budget, but ensure the insulation material is securely fastened and safe for your pet.

The quality of your pet's life directly depends on how well you meet its needs. As a responsible pet owner, you should provide your dog with a warm, safe space in the backyard to ensure it stays cozy during the winter months.

First, be sure to adjust the doghouse structure according to your dog’s breed, size, and needs. Second, carefully choose insulation materials to ensure they are safe for your pet. Finally, remember not to over-insulate—excessively thick insulation can make the doghouse too cramped, affecting your dog's comfort. Proper ventilation and moisture-proofing are equally important.

Article Source:How to Build an Insulated Doghouse for Winter Comfort

In the process of feeding cats, many pet owners have wondered: Can cats in the household share a food bowl? This seemingly ordinary question actually involves many complex factors, such as feline behavior, territorial instincts, and health needs. This article will explore the pros and cons of cats sharing a food bowl from multiple angles and combine expert advice with practical tips to help pet owners make informed decisions.

Understanding Cat Behavior: A Quick Look into Feline Psychology

Before deciding whether to let multiple cats share a food bowl, it is crucial to understand some of their behavioral habits. Unlike dogs, which are naturally social animals, cats are solitary hunters.

This upbringing influences their attitude toward resources like food. In the wild, cats tend to hunt independently and eat alone to avoid competition and conflict. Even domestic cats often retain this instinctive behavior.

Cats are territorial by nature, and not every cat is willing to share a food bowl with others. Some cats are more easygoing and happy to share, while others may feel stressed or even become aggressive. Observing your cats' behavior during mealtime can help you determine whether they are willing to share food.

Benefits of Sharing a Food Bowl

In some cases, it is beneficial for cats to share a food bowl:

Close Bond Between Cats: If your cats are already close and get along well, sharing a food bowl can deepen their bond. For cats that get along, eating together can become a social activity, much like humans enjoying group meals.

Convenience for Owners: One of the most obvious benefits of cats sharing a food bowl is convenience. Only one bowl needs to be filled and cleaned, making it much easier than managing multiple feeding stations, especially in smaller living spaces.

Reduced Clutter: Fewer food bowls mean less clutter in the living space. This is particularly useful for apartments or small homes with limited space.

Drawbacks of Sharing a Food Bowl

While there are some benefits to letting cats share a food bowl, there are also potential drawbacks:

Risk of Overeating or Undereating: When cats share a food bowl, it is difficult to monitor each cat's food intake. One cat may eat too much, while another may not get enough. This can lead to issues such as obesity in dominant cats and malnutrition in more submissive ones.

Increased Stress and Aggression: Sharing a food bowl can cause stress for some cats, especially when they have to compete for food. This stress may manifest as aggression toward other cats or anxiety during mealtime.

Hygiene Issues: Shared food bowls are prone to bacterial growth, especially if food is left out for extended periods. Wet food, in particular, spoils easily, making this a significant concern. Sharing a food bowl may also increase the risk of disease transmission between cats.

Signs That Sharing Isn’t Working

If you have tried letting your cats share a food bowl and notice changes in their behavior or health, it may be time to reconsider this approach. Pay attention to the following signs, which may indicate that sharing a food bowl is not effective:

Aggressive Behavior: If your cats growl, hiss, or swat at each other during meals, this clearly indicates they are not comfortable sharing food.

Uneven Weight Changes: Monitoring your cats' weight is crucial. If one cat gains weight while another loses it, sharing a food bowl may be the culprit.

Anxiety or Avoidance: Some cats may become anxious or even avoid eating altogether if they feel threatened by other cats.

Tips for Successful Shared Feeding

If you decide to let your cats share a food bowl, there are ways to make the process smoother and reduce potential conflicts:

Choose the Right Bowl: A wide, shallow bowl allows multiple cats to eat at the same time without crowding each other, making shared meals more comfortable and enjoyable.

Monitor Feeding Times: Keep a close eye on your cats during mealtime to ensure they are all eating well. If one cat seems to dominate the bowl, consider using separate bowls.

Consider Using a Slow-Feeder Bowl: For cats that eat too quickly, a slow-feeder bowl can help control their eating pace. This prevents one cat from eating too fast and gives the other a fair chance to enjoy the food.

Maintain a Routine: Cats thrive on routine, and consistent feeding times can reduce their anxiety and conflicts. Try to feed your cats at the same time every day and ensure they eat in a quiet, comfortable environment.

When Separate Bowls May Be the Best Choice

While some cats can share a food bowl without issues, others are better off with separate bowls. Here are some scenarios where using separate bowls may be more appropriate:

Introducing a New Member: If you are bringing a new cat home, set up separate feeding areas first. This helps reduce initial territorial disputes and makes the newcomer feel more secure.

Health Issues: If one cat has special dietary needs or is on medication, using separate bowls ensures each cat gets the right food.

Eating Styles: Some cats prefer to graze, while others like to eat quickly. Using separate bowls allows each cat to eat in their preferred way, avoiding conflicts.

Finding the Best Approach for Your Cats

Ultimately, whether to let your cats share a food bowl depends on their personalities, health conditions, and how well they get along. By observing your cats' behavior and making adjustments as needed, you can create a feeding environment that suits all of them.

Let Your Feline Friends Enjoy the Perfect Mealtime

Some cats enjoy sharing a food bowl, while others prefer having their own space. No matter which approach you ultimately choose, the most important thing is to ensure your beloved pets can enjoy a relaxed and pleasant mealtime. After all, life becomes even better when pets and their owners are together—and that is what we always strive for!

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We've all experienced this — your dog gazes at you with those big, watery eyes, begging to curl up beside you on your comfortable, clean bed. You might think they simply want to be close to you, and that’s certainly true, but there’s another often overlooked reason: cleanliness and comfort. Dogs are much smarter than we realize, and our beds — regularly changed, washed, and made with cozy materials — often become their ideal sleeping sanctuary in their minds.

The Reality of Traditional Dog Beds

In contrast, many beds and mats specifically designed for dogs aren’t easy to keep clean and can quickly harbor bacteria, parasites, and odors. Even the most dedicated pet owners find it challenging to maintain a truly clean dog bed. Traditional dog beds are often made from materials that are difficult to wash, and their design makes replacing padding or covers a hassle. As a result, these beds can become unhygienic rather quickly.

Why Do Dogs Choose the Human Bed?

On the other hand, your bed is a clean, safe haven. You regularly wash your sheets, and the fabrics are usually of higher quality, creating a more comfortable and cleaner sleep environment. With their keen sense of smell, dogs can easily tell how much cleaner your bed is compared to their own. It’s no wonder they often prefer snuggling next to you rather than sleeping on their less-than-clean bed.

Creating a Truly Clean and Comfortable Sleep Space for Your Dog

Understanding dogs’ desire for a clean environment, we are committed to developing dog bed products that are truly easy to clean while providing comfort and supporting health. An ideal dog bed should, like the owner’s bed, allow your dog to sleep soundly while making it easy for you to maintain hygiene.

When choosing a dog bed, we recommend paying attention to the following features:

Removable & Washable Design: The outer cover should be easy to remove for frequent washing.

Breathable & Soft Material: Offers a gentle touch against the skin and prevents stuffiness or dampness.

Simple & Streamlined Structure: Minimizes hard-to-clean corners, making wiping and airing out straightforward.

Slightly Elevated Off the Ground: Provides insulation from cold and dampness while giving them a sense of security similar to being "on the bed."

Conclusion

Dogs are intelligent animals. They know where to find comfort and cleanliness, and often, that place is your bed. Providing them with a truly fresh, easy-to-maintain bed not only protects their health but also allows both of you to enjoy more independent and restful sleep.

After all, a clean bed leads to a happier dog, and a happy dog makes for an even happier owner.

We all know that caring for pet cats and dogs requires a significant amount of time and effort every day. Daily feeding, walks, affection, and attention are all essential. Of course, there is another aspect of caring for dogs that we need to consider—cleaning their beds. When dogs return from outdoors, they inevitably bring back dust and bacteria on their paws and fur, which can easily be carried into their favorite sleeping spot: their bed. Although cats spend most of their time indoors, their bedding can also accumulate dander, fur, and fine dust. Just as you would bathe your dog regularly, your dog’s bed covers need to be cleaned as well.

What is the best way to clean a dog bed?

Most of our dog beds come with a zippered cover for easy removal of the foam filling. Additionally, most dog beds are equipped with detachable cushions, making it simple to clean both the cover and the foam filling.

Step-by-Step Guide to Cleaning Indoor Dog Bed Covers

1.Unzip the cover and remove the foam pad and cushions.

2.Take the cover outside and shake it thoroughly to remove larger dust particles and fur.

3.Zip the cover closed.

4.Machine wash the cover in cold water with a fragrance-free detergent. Do not use bleach.

5.Air dry naturally or tumble dry on low heat.

6.Unzip the cover and place the foam pad and cushions back inside.

7.Voilà! Your pet bed is now clean.

8.Extra tip: Adding a waterproof liner to the foam pad can extend its lifespan. This waterproof liner can be cleaned with a damp cloth and diluted detergent. Never machine wash our waterproof liners.

We recommend shaking the dog bed cover outdoors, making sure it is positioned downwind to prevent fur, dust, and dirt from blowing back. This helps remove larger particles and most of the dog hair, so you won't have to wash them all in the washing machine. We suggest washing the dog bed cover in cold water in the washing machine every two to three weeks.

Pro tip! If your bed cushion is slightly flattened, you can remove it from its cover, shake it gently, and manually fluff it to restore its shape.

Using baking soda to wash your dog's mattress cover is an excellent way to remove stubborn odors.

Step-by-Step Guide to Cleaning Outdoor Dog Bed Covers

1.Unzip the cover and remove the foam pad for inspection.

2.Shake off any large dust particles or fur from the cover.

3.Zip the cover closed.

4.Prepare a towel and a bucket of diluted detergent.

5.Wipe the exterior of the cover with the damp towel.

6.Allow it to air dry completely.

7.Voilà! Your pet bed is now clean.

8.Extra tip: Adding a waterproof liner to the foam pad can extend its lifespan. This waterproof liner can be cleaned with a damp cloth and diluted detergent. Never machine wash our waterproof liners.

Never machine wash or tumble dry our outdoor dog bed covers, as this can damage the pet-safe waterproof coating on the canvas fabric. Only wipe outdoor bed covers with diluted detergent.

What detergent should I use to wash my dog's bed?

We recommend using fragrance-free detergent for all dog-related items. Many scented detergents or fabric softeners contain essential oils or chemical ingredients that may be harmful to your dog's respiratory system. The same applies when drying—avoid using any scented dryer sheets, scent beads, or essential oils with wool dryer balls. We advise using a high-quality laundry detergent that complies with your washing machine’s specifications. There’s no need for fancy detergents or specialized "dog bed" cleaners.

Since sweat and dirt from dogs can seep into the mattress, we recommend replacing the mattress liner every 3 months and the pet cover approximately every 6 months. This not only helps maintain cleanliness and hygiene but also extends the lifespan of the foam used in the mattress, ensuring your pet always has a clean, comfortable, and healthy resting place.

Article Source:How to Clean Dog Beds, Cat Beds, and Bed Covers