What materials do I use? What to avoid? And some basic rules.
In this post I will show you which materials I use, which are good for dolls & which you should avoid (and why).
There will also be some basic rules about how to use each medium.
If you want to check on how to cut costs on basic materials and what to get to start your first repaint – check my previous post here.
OK, so let’s get started…
Sealants are a must! You need a layer of something “toothy” over vinyl (or plastic or resin) for your watercolor pencils and pastel dust to stick to.
Sealants used as last layer also make your work waterproof & permanent.
Basic rules of working with sealant
ALWAYS and I mean it – always – use vapor mask!
Even when working with an airbrush.
Other options? You’ll die. Or get cancer. Or asthma. Just wear the goddamn’ mask!
You need a good vapor mask with disposable filters, that are meant for lacquer and chemical vapors. Mine uses A1P2 filter type. Most popular and good brand? 3M.
Those cheap paper masks that make you look like a Dr. house? It’s shit. It doesn’t even protect you from a flu. Buy a good mask.
You either spend like $15 on a mask… or $5000 on a coffin – the choice is yours.
Just be warned.
you need at least 2-3 layers of sealant as a base before you even start to work with your doll. Just think about it as creating a paper from scratch – you need some thickness to it or you’ll just punch a hole in the layer with your sharp pencils.
If you start with basic shading – 2 layers is enough. If you start with drawing some basic lines & shapes – I would recommend 3 layers.
each sealant layer needs time to dry – usually it is 15-30 minutes per layer.
What means you spray the doll – you leave it to dry – you spray the doll – you leave it to dry. There is no safe way to make it faster and working. Sealant compounds must dry and cure properly. Heating it will cause the sealant to get sticky and gooey – you don’t want that.
Some things just need time – this is one of those.
always spray in a ventilated area: either it will be a garage, a basement, your kitchen with kitchen vent/ hood working, or even a room you don’t sleep in, that have more than one window and great air flow.
Spray residue can harm your lungs. Why? Not because it’s radioactive shit that will make you glow in the dark… geez.
Because tiny sealant particles can get to your lungs, stay there, harden, and lesser your lung capacity. It can give you headache and asthma in best case scenario, or evolve into cancer in the worst scenario.
Therefore you always spray in a ventilated area and wear a mask.
spray with good weather. Heat and high humidity can affect how sealant layers dry and cure over time. If it’s too hot – sealant won’t cure. Too cold – it cannot evaporate. Too humid – it cannot dry. It seems like a lot, but besides extreme weather, you can spray almost any day.
If it’s not super hot, no snow blizzards or heavy rains – you’re good to go.
Or you can always spray indoors 🙂
spray from at least one feet /30-40cm distance, in short series.
You rather want to dust your doll in a delicate sealant cloud, than pour it in a heavy rain of sealant. Thin layers. Proper distance. And you’ll be good.
give your can a good shake. Best way is to warm the can in your hands for several minutes and then vigorously shake up and down for 1-2 minutes.
The better you shake your sealant – the thinner and smoother layer you’ll get.
Shaking helps all ingredients to mix well, warm up, and makes pressure inside can higher.
If you learn all the basics of how to properly use sealant – you can be sure no matter what brand you’ll choose – it will always give you great results.
Sealant brands – pros and cons of each
Most popular among doll artists is MSC aka Mr. Super Clear, but it is also really expensive, sold in tiny cans and really hard to get in some areas.
Why it’s so pricey? Because it’s good. Obviously.
But also because it is produced and imported from Japan – a small country, located on several bigger and smaller islands – so shipping anything from there costs tons of money!
MSC pros:
– creates good tooth to surface
– usually 2 layers are enough as a base
– widely known & tested
– waterproof
MSC cons:
– pricey!
– hard to find in some areas
– sold in small cans
– very vulnerable to air humidity and temperature
– tends to lighten surface
– new Matt version tends to crack over time
See the problem? If you want your doll’s head to perfectly match the body – you must either spray both with MSC or constantly checking shade of the head and blush it with pastels.
CITADEL Munitorum Varnish aka Purity Seal
It’s basically MSC in bigger can 😀
Made in UK. Widely popular among miniature artists and board game players. If you have a nerd friend playing miniature games – he’ll know how to help you get this one!
My sealant of choice ❤
Munitorum Varnish pros:
– big can!
– fair price
– creates good tooth
– less vulnerable to weather conditions
– waterproof
– a bit elastic – won’t crack
Munitorum Varnish cons:
– mostly available in boardgame stores or online
– must be sprayed from a proper distance, or it will tend to cure into a satin finish
– usually needs 3 layers as a base for watercolor pencils
Most of my repaints were made with Munitorum Varnish spray 🙂
Army Painter and Vallejo Spray Matte Sealant
Those are meant to be used with wargame miniatures. They are less popular than other brands. They both give a nice surface to work with watercolor pencils, but colors on them aren’t as bold as with MSC or CITADEL.
The biggest con I have with these two is the packaging – both Army Painter;s and Vallejo’s Sealant cans ended up with broken nozzle just after few uses.
I have no idea what causes it – but the nozzle tends to crack or getting clogged easily.
You can buy spare ones, but I just let them go for other, easier to use for me, media.
Tamiya C matte sealant
It’s also Japanese sealant, same as MSC.
Sold in tiny cans [is everything in Japan tiny? Why? ] and meant to be used with wargame minis.
I used only one can of it, because of it’s horrible smell. Even tho it gave me a good surface to work with, and can was easy to operate – I felt the smell even in my pro mask with filters. And even after 4 hours with wide opened windows in my apartment.
If you have a basement or a garage – you can probably use it with more success.
Hint for drying a doll in humid climate!
For those who are afraid of air humidity in their region, or have a sneaky furry friend as a part of their family – there is a trick to help you save your dolls and let them dry safely!
It’s a drying chamber / dry box.
Basically a plastic box, filled with silica gel packets [those do-not-eat baggies you can find in new pair of shoes or newly bought bag] and some tiny holes poked in a lid.
You can put the doll there and leave it to fully dry in most clean and dry conditions you can get at home. Also – without any fluff particles, fur or dust bunnies that could be stuck to a wet sealant layer.
When it comes to paints I always recommend miniature painting brands.
Why?
Because they are meant to be used with tiny surfaces!
Miniature paints have the smallest pigment particles you can get – it helps you get smoother layers and better coverage than any art grade paint. These paints are also a bit elastic after fully dry so they won’t chip off easily, even from squishy vinyl heads.
They’ve meant to be used with resin wargame and boardgame miniatures – tiny objects that are often used, moved around and thrown to a box without air pillows.
They can really withstand a lot more than your usual acrylics.
The only con I can find is that they need a lot more practice than pencils to achieve same results.
You need to learn how to control your paint thickness and train a steady hand to achieve clean lines and smooth layers.
ALWAYS thin your paints before use! Either with water or paint thinner.
– you need it to get smooth layers without gritty or lumpy texture and to avoid future chipping.
Paints are not meant to give full coverage in one layer, so don’t try to achieve that.
As with any other medium on a tiny surface – work with thin layers, patiently building up color and coverage.
What people usually are afraid of is that paints are sold in small bottles so they won’t last long. But it’s not true!
Thanks to great coverage and small scale we work with you really don’t need much at a time.
You also usually use paint thinned down with water or dedicated thinner in 50/50 ratio.
Paint brands – pros and cons of each
CITADEL [ sometimes called Games Workshop]
It’s a brand of paints that was created for Warhammer miniatures. It’s probably the most popular brand in the miniature artists world.
CITADEL pros:
– variety of colors
– different lines for different special effects, eg. drybrushing, layering etc.
– easy to find both in stores and online
– good coverage
CITADEL cons:
– poor package – it makes paints dry out faster
– thick – it needs acrylic thinner to work properly
– you can feel overwhelmed with how many lines they have for different things
[mostly unnecessary ones, like Dry line for example]
It’s a Spanish brand, very popular among pro painters.
My personal choice ❤
I love all their series, they have clear descriptions, lots of additional mediums, and what’s great – they last forever!
Vallejo pros:
– great package! It’s almost impossible for these to dry out or spill, or use too much of it
– variety of colors – from vibrant Game Color series, Metallic mediums in all colors to Model Color in more toned down shades
– lots of different mediums: metallizers, thinners, shading media etc.
– great quality and coverage
Vallejo cons:
– they are a bit harder to find outside EU, most often available online
– outside of EU they can cost a bit more than Citadel
Army Painter
This is typically a wargame miniature designed brand. Their colors are more earthy and calm, more toned down – meant to be used for skin tones and army uniforms.
If you’re looking something super vibrant – that’s not your type.
They have similar packages to Vallejo –a tiny bottle with dropper.
Tamiya
Japanese brand of paints.
Sold in tiny jars. I must say I don’t like these packages neither working with a bit jelly consistency of these paints.
Big pros of these is their long tradition on market – probably any miniature model store will have Tamiya paints – from wargame stores to these for car or train lovers.
If you want to try these – you aim for Tamiya C series – acrylic based paints.
P3 and Pactra
Similar to Army Painter – these are more into natural shades. I worked with them shortly, because they’re less available where I live. Their coverage isn’t as good as other brands.
Still – they give great smooth layers when dry.
What else do I need to start with paints?
paintbrushes – duuuh! 😉 I recommend getting tiny paintbrushes, often referred to as miniature brushes, in sizes of 1,2, 0, 00, and 000. Preferably sable bristles or nylon.
Nylon brushes are cheaper but last shorter. Sable ones are pricey but properly cleaned will last for years.
paint thinner – I use Vallejo Airbrush Thinner.
Thinner changes surface tension of the paint, which allows you to dilute paint without losing as much coverage as it is when diluting with water. Diluted paint gives you a smoother layer and thinner, sharper lines – eg. when you want to paint eyelashes.
brush cleaner – I use 2in1 hair shampoo with conditioner because it cleans brushes without damaging sable bristles.
Remember to always use lukewarm water for your brushes, never too hot! Hot water will damage your paintbrushes and make paint harden around bristles.
You can only use watercolor pencils – normal colored pencils are your worst enemy!
Why?
Usually colored pencil core is a mix of pigments, mineral oils and binder – they are meant to be used on paper and sip into it thanks to addition of mineral oils.
Sadly that’s the main villain – mineral oil, or basically any other oil, will destroy sealant layers.
It will make layers sticky and fragile. It will prevent sealant from curing and your work won’t be permanent or waterproof.
On the other hand – watercolor pencils are made from tightly compressed, clean, water-soluble pigments. Nothing more. Just pigments that can be dissolved by using water.
They are dry, and allow sealant to cure properly.
They will also give you clean, sharp lines.
Please remember, that if you want colors to stand out – you will work with layers over layers over layers. First layer won’t be super-saturated in color, since there isn’t too much pigment yet. You need to seal your work several times and re-draw any details you want to be more saturated. But thanks to working with pencils – it’s an easy and fast process – just remember to always leave sealant layer for recommended time to dry 🙂
Do I need to wet my pencils?
– no, you don’t. But you can.
If you want sharp lines, tiny details and great control over the final result – use your pencils dry.
If you’ll need a bigger surface to be covered in one color, or maybe a smooth transition between colors – use dry pencils on the doll, and then damp brush to smooth em’ out.
Never ever dip pencil core in water cup! It will make the core soft, mushy and fragile.
And you won’t be able to properly sharpen it for days, before all the moisture evaporates.
Watercolor Pencil brands – pros and cons of each
What brands I recommend? What I use?
– I worked with Derwent Watercolor, Derwent Inktense, Kooh-i-Noor Mondeluz and Faber Castel.
Derwent Watercolor
It’s most recommended brand. Easily available online and in stores worldwide.
Derwent offers soft core with great saturation. It is also easy to sharpen.
Derwent Watercolor pros:
– widely available
– great quality
– great saturation
– lots of colors to choose from
– can be bought per piece and in sets
– easy to sharpen
Derwent Watercolor cons:
– fragile core – they sometimes tend to break on the tip if sharpened too much
– high price
– colors on outer shell are often different than what you get when drawing – make sure to have your own swatches on paper!
Those are basically Chinese inks in form of a pencil. They are meant to be used on silk and cotton fabrics wet and are waterproof when dry. They have great color saturation but give slightly translucent layers.
White is their weakest point – you’ll prefer to get it from other brand.
Derwent Inktense pros:
– vivid colors
– easy to sharpen
– can be bought by piece
– widely available
– tougher core
Derwent Inktense cons:
– white gives almost no coverage
– any lighter color will be semi translucent
– pricey
– sadly the outer shell does not match inner core colors as well
Kooh-i-Noor Mondeluz
This is a Czech brand with great tradition [they were funded in 1790] and are probably the cheapest watercolor pencils you can get with one of the best quality pigments.
They offer big palette of colors in very reasonable prices.
Kooh-i-Noor Mondeluz pros:
– they are cheap
– lots of colors to choose from
– very good saturation
– give smooth layers
– white offers great coverage
– outside shell exactly match core color you’ll get
Kooh-i-Noor Mondeluz cons:
– outside of EU mostly available online
– they can only be bought in sets – from 12 to 72 colors
– they are a bit harder to sharpen – you’ll need new, good quality sharpener because of their smooth inner core
Faber-Castel Albrecht Durer Watercolor pencils
Those are thicker than any other pencils you’ll find. They are easy to grip and offer bold colors. And they cost a ton of gold!
Faber-Castel Albrecht Durer pros:
– thick, easy to grip pencils
– bold colors
– easy to dissolve with water if you want smooth color transitions
– can be used with a paintbrush instead of paint
Faber-Castel Albrecht Durer cons:
– thick core won’t give you tiniest details
– very soft
– hard to sharpen
– very pricey
– hard to find
– available only in sets
– lesser choice of colors
– dry and wet color will look totally different
Best thing about making repaint with watercolor pencils is that you don’t need nothing more to start – no paintbrushes, thinners, cups with water etc.
Just the pencils and a sharpener and you’re ready to go!
It’s also the most popular artistic medium – we all had pencils as kids, so we all know how to handle them. There is less space for an error than with paints.
– soft pastels, or something else?
Pastels are used for blushing and shading. With bigger than 1:6 dolls or for more advanced artists – pastels are often skipped for an airbrush, but they give this soft, natural look that cannot be achieved by anything else.
Think of them like a girl’s make up 😉
As any other medium pastels need a basic layer of sealant to grip to.
You can use them with normal paintbrushes, Q-tips, cotton swabs or new, unused makeup brushes. I prefer the last option because makeup brushes offer softer bristles than other brushes – that will result in a smooth shading.
You can use the cheapest brushes you’ll find in your local beauty store – they don’t need to be clinically tested or gentle for skin – you’ll use them for dolls only!
Why you need a new set of makeup brushes instead of using your old ones?
Because human skin is oily. Always.
Any type of human skin will be covered in natural sebum, that will over time sip into makeup brush and no washing session can fully clean it from bristles.
And as I mentioned before – you need to avoid any oil near your dolls.
You can use soft pastels sold in blocks, or already ground into dust [eg. Pan Pastel].
You can even get pure mineral pigments.
What brands I recommend? What I use?
– I mostly use Kooh-i-Noor, Stabilo and mineral pigments.
Recommended brands will be same as for watercolor pencils: Derwent, Faber Castel, Prismacolor.
You aim for good quality pastels – soft, highly packed with pigments, with small % of binders and fillers.
you can use them as they are – simply dab your makeup brush over pastel block to get some pigment
you can grind it on sandpaper – 400 or finer grit is best
you can scratch some dust with craft knife over a paper
you can be lazy and buy already ground pastels or pigments 😀
Mineral pigments instead of soft pastels?
I often use pure mineral pigments, that I got for cheap in local eco beauty store.
If you want ever to use a human make up product on dolls – you must always check if what you get is a pure mineral product without silicones, parabens or any kind of oils.
Because otherwise – as you already know – you will destroy your doll.
No, Rhonda, your eye shadow set won’t work!
No, they are no good, I don’t care how much you’ve paid for them.
Pure mineral pigments are often offered by brands that specialize in mineral make up, like Annabelle Minerals etc.
They can also be bought on Etsy from small manufacturers or in local eco beauty stores.
They are already finely ground, with no additional fillers, so they offer bold vivid colors with great coverage and smooth layering.
You will also often get mineral shimmers and glitters, that are fine enough to be used on doll eye make up.
Read the labels, ask seller about full list of ingredients – and you’ll be good 🙂
And those are mineral pigments I have from my local store:
– what you can use, and what should be avoided at any cost?
What else you can use for doll faceup?
– any kind of textile glue to attach eyelashes
– human grade eyelashes
– any craft glitters
– 3D paints
– any acrylic based inks and contour paints
– POSCA acrylic markers
– nail art stickers, rhinestones or coloring dust
– decals –but you’ll need to seal them at least 2 times after they are dry!
What to avoid?
– anything with oils – either mineral or natural
– human makeup products: powders, eye shadows, eyeliners, body shimmers etc.
– normal colored pencils
– oil pastels
– alcohol-based inks – they will sip into vinyl and destroy it
– Sharpies!!! no, they are not good, neither for faces or for hair – they will bleed over time
– permanent markers
– Mod Podge instead of gloss or varnish – it will get sticky and yellow over time.
And no amount of sealant will save it.
– nail polish – yes, it will hold to sealed vinyl head, but it’s too stiff when dry and will chip off easily
– gouache paints or caulk paints – they will chip off
– any cheap art grade spray sealant / fixative – they will get sticky on vinyl and provide no tooth
If you are interested on my notes about dyeing doll hair – check this note here.
Doll LAB: recommended materials. Tips & tricks. What materials do I use? What to avoid? And some basic rules. In this post I will show you which materials I use, which are good for dolls & which you should avoid (and why).
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