NOW . WHAT

Elsa Schiaparelli

Martin Margiela's conceptual fall/winter 1994–95 collection was comprised of five groups of garments which introduced new codes to the Maison's DNA, based on replicas of existing garments, both of his own hand and vintage garments. The third group of the collection was called "Clothing reproduced from a doll's wardrobe," and included this cardigan from the 1960s with buttons. The doll's garments were blown up to human size, keeping the disproportion of the doll's body, the garments and its closures intact. This conceptual direction in the oeuvre of Margiela introduced notions of the replica, the grotesque and deconstructed the idea of the perfect size or body type.