I am not the best instructor, but I really enjoy giving the lecture because it means I get to talk at a captive audience for half an hour about my favourite subject – dogs. 😅

If anyone is interested in the lecture, I’ll put my bullet points under the cut. I have refined it a lot over the last ~9 months and I’m really happy with where it’s at right now. Keep in mind the target audience for this lecture is people who are at a zero on dog training knowledge.

e.g. Some dogs will do fine at understanding that when you pick up something with your hands, they can pick it up with their mouth. While other dogs take the demonstration more literally and may try to paw at the object.

It’s seeming to me, that Thistle may be falling in the latter category and that is why she is giving some….interesting…results.

But if *I* change how I demonstrate it, she will be fully ‘correct’.

My chihuahua: will literally rather climb several stairs to get to my housemate who’s working from home to tell her she needs to be let out if I’m not home than pee or poop inside.

I didn’t even know she did this until my housemate told me a few days ago. I had no idea the training had been that effective. The training: Let the puppy out every three hours and after every meal and playtime. Bonus: if you say “pee” every time they pee they’ll learn to do it on command.

As a trainer, I see a ton of guardian breeds. The worst cases of barky-lungey/reactive behavior I see are the guardian breed dogs who got to meet EVERYBODY as puppies. They then hit maturity, developing into aloof dogs who only like their people, but have a track record of EVERYBODY trying to touch them all the time. They don’t enjoy it, and they don’t have history of their owners advocating for their space. So they make their own space.

A trainer I used to work with pushed the “9/10 rule” with protection breed puppies; for every person they meet (which should be a productive experience such as a vet, groomer, judge/instructor, trusted friend and their children, etc.), they should learn to ignore or pass by at least nine unbothered (pedestrians who want to pet your dog, strange children, people in uniforms, folks with hats/canes/etc.). The puppies I’ve met who were raised like this turned out very nice for the most part.

I see this and have made this mistake with other dogs, too. I let TenSoon play with lots and lots of other dogs as a puppy, and he learned bad manners and was bullied into several spats. As a breed already prone to rude behavior and SSA, that was the last thing he needed. I see a bunch of dogs, friendly and not, who could’ve benefited from spending more time learning to ignore other dogs and less time learning bad habits with poorly vetted ones. Almost every case of reactivity I get that isn’t a GSD or ACD has a case record of oversocializing with every dog they met during puppyhood. They respond either with barrier frustration over their excitement at another dog, or insecurity due to being bullied or even attacked.

I basically wish I’d known this a bit sooner:

Just as humans do, animals bond with and have an affinity towards their family. They prefer the safety and comfort of their family’s company and dislike separation from them. When we bring a puppy into our home, it is important to keep in mind that this baby animal has spent all of her life surrounded by the warm bodies of her mother and siblings. When we move this puppy into our home, we are actually separating her from her family, so it should be no surprise that there will be some initial anxiety and grief on the puppy’s part. Separation anxiety is a normal part of acclimating to a new home and family, and gentle patience is called for.

Think of it this way: From an evolutionary point of view – that is, all of the traits that began when dogs were still wild and continue because they have helped to keep the dog species alive – a vulnerable puppy that is separated from his family is at risk of being attacked and killed by predators. In order to discourage his mother from leaving him for long periods, he cries and carries on, resulting in her staying close in order to keep him quiet and therefore ensuring his survival.

It is this natural instinct that still prompts puppies to whine, howl, squeal and demonstrate restlessness when they are separated from their families. For the first few days, or weeks, it is natural for a puppy to have trouble falling asleep in her new environment, because it is natural for the puppy to feel vulnerable and afraid as she adjusts to the absence of her canine brood. Day one in the new home will be the most frightful for the puppy, and the most challenging for you to lay the groundwork for your relationship with your puppy.

On this first night, the puppy is going to feel his new aloneness most keenly. A lot of people will respond to the whines and squeals of a puppy by placing them far from earshot, such as in a basement or garage. Or, the puppy may be placed in a cage to keep him from escaping and scratching at doors. In such a situation his sense of insecurity increases and he will whine and squeal as loudly as he can, perhaps until dawn.

Of course, by putting him in the basement we have temporarily avoided the disturbance caused by the puppy so that we can get some sleep, but most veterinarians advise against this practice, saying that the intense anxiety caused by this practice could result in behavioral problems for the dog as he grows.

Security, Not Coddling

So the question is where to make a spot for your puppy to sleep during her first days in your home. The first thing to consider is making a place where the puppy will not feel isolated. This can be a challenge, of course. Some people feel comfortable keeping their dogs in the bedroom on a dog bed or designated blanket on the floor. This can be good for giving the puppy a much needed sense of security. However, it’s probably best if you do not take the puppy into bed with you.

Despite this, there are those who feel very comfortable with taking their pets into their beds and allowing them to sleep there every night. In fact, this practice has its own practical applications: dogs are a wonderful source of warmth on frigid winter nights. (Haven’t you ever wondered where the old idiom “three dog night” came from?) They have already made up their minds about where their dog will sleep and are not the ones we are speaking to here.

Not everyone wants a dog in their bed all the time, and if you are not sure whether you will or not, it is best not to. If you do take the puppy into your bed just to comfort him, it can lead to some behavioral problems later if you should decide that you do not want the dog in your bed every night after all.

Using a Crate

The best compromise can be setting a crate up in the bedroom or just outside of the open bedroom door. This way, the puppy can hear your sleeping sounds and you can verbally comfort her from close by. One other thing to consider about crating the puppy in those early nights is that puppies are unlikely to urinate where they sleep, so you can be sure that the puppy will not get up in the night and urinate on the floors.

And speaking of “going,” before going to bed, take the puppy outside so that she can relieve herself. Getting into the habit of walking before bed has another advantage besides keeping the puppy from needing to urinate during the night: she will also get tired out and will be more likely to sleep soundly and less likely to disturb you as you sleep.

Again, remember that the puppy is not used to being alone in a crate. He will feel anxious and uncomfortable and is likely to make a lot of noise. It is best to ignore the puppy’s whines as much as possible. If you pay too much attention he will learn that this is a good method for getting you to come to pet him.

When Nature Calls

If the puppy does whine excessively, it is reasonable to take the puppy gently by the scruff (back) of the neck , and without getting agitated, tell him in a low voice, “No, go to sleep.” Repeat this several times and as the days pass into weeks he will learn to obey you. In the morning, take him outside to relieve himself.

Along with going out before bed, going out first thing in the morning should also become a habitual morning ritual. Puppies will typically relieve themselves in small amounts several times before they have finished an outing. Once he is finished, praise him with a pat and perhaps a small training treat and say a few praising words to let him know he has done the right thing.

House-training your dog or puppy requires patience, commitment and lots of consistency. Accidents are part of the process, but if you follow these basic house-training guidelines, you can get the newest member of your family on the right track in a few weeks’ time.

Establish a routine

Like babies, puppies do best on a regular schedule. The schedule teaches them that there are times to eat, times to play and times to do their business. Generally speaking, a puppy can control their bladder one hour for every month of age. So if your puppy is two months old, they can hold it for about two hours. Don’t go longer than this between bathroom breaks or they’re guaranteed to have an accident.

Take your puppy outside frequently—at least every two hours—and immediately after they wake up, during and after playing, and after eating or drinking.

Pick a bathroom spot outside, and always take your puppy (on a leash) to that spot. While your puppy is relieving themselves, use a specific word or phrase that you can eventually use before they go to remind them what to do. Take them out for a longer walk or some playtime only after they have eliminated.

Reward your puppy every time they eliminate outdoors. Praise or give treats—but remember to do so immediately after they’ve finished, not after they come back inside. This step is vital, because rewarding your dog for going outdoors is the only way to teach what’s expected of them. Before rewarding, be sure they’re finished. Puppies are easily distracted and if you praise too soon, they may forget to finish until they’re back in the house.

Put your puppy on a regular feeding schedule. What goes into a puppy on a schedule comes out of a puppy on a schedule. Depending on their age, puppies usually need to be fed three or four times a day. Feeding your puppy at the same times each day will make it more likely that they’ll eliminate at consistent times as well, making housetraining easier for both of you.

Pick up your puppy’s water dish about two and a half hours before bedtime to reduce the likelihood that they’ll need to relieve themselves during the night. Most puppies can sleep for approximately seven hours without needing a bathroom break. If your puppy does wake you up in the night, don’t make a big deal of it; otherwise they will think it is time to play and won’t want to go back to sleep. Turn on as few lights as possible, don’t talk to or play with your puppy, take them out and then return them to bed.

Supervise your puppy

Don’t give your puppy an opportunity to soil in the house; keep an eye on them whenever they’re indoors.

Tether your puppy to you or a nearby piece of furniture with a six-foot leash if you are not actively training or playing. Watch for signs that your puppy needs to go out. Some signs are obvious, such as barking or scratching at the door, squatting, restlessness, sniffing around or circling. When you see these signs, immediately grab the leash and take them outside to their bathroom spot. If they eliminate, praise them and reward with a treat.

Keep your puppy on leash in the yard. During the housetraining process, your yard should be treated like any other room in your house. Give your puppy some freedom in the house and yard only after they become reliably housetrained.

When you can’t supervise, confine

When you’re unable to watch your puppy at all times, restrict them to an area small enough that they won’t want to eliminate there.

The space should be just big enough to comfortably stand, lie down and turn around. You can use a portion of a bathroom or laundry room blocked off with baby gates.

Or you may want to crate train your puppy. (Be sure to learn how to use a crate humanely as a method of confinement.) If your puppy has spent several hours in confinement, you’ll need to take them directly to their bathroom spot as soon as you return.

Mistakes happen

Expect your puppy to have a few accidents in the house—it’s a normal part of housetraining. Here’s what to do when that happens:

Interrupt your puppy when you catch them in the act.

Make a startling noise (be careful not to scare them) or say “OUTSIDE!” and immediately take them to their bathroom spot. Praise your pup and give a treat if they finish there.

Don’t punish your puppy for eliminating in the house. If you find a soiled area, it’s too late to administer a correction. Just clean it up. Rubbing your puppy’s nose in it, taking them to the spot and scolding them or any other punishment will only make them afraid of you or afraid to eliminate in your presence. Punishment will often do more harm than good.

Clean the soiled area thoroughly. Puppies are highly motivated to continue soiling in areas that smell like urine or feces.

It’s extremely important that you use these supervision and confinement procedures to minimize the number of accidents. If you allow your puppy to eliminate frequently in the house, they’ll get confused about where they’re supposed to go, which will prolong the housetraining process.

Make plans for when you’re away

If you have to be away from home more than four or five hours a day, this may not be the best time for you to get a puppy. Instead, you may want to consider an older dog who can wait for your return. If you already have a puppy and must be away for long periods of time, you’ll need to:

Arrange for someone, such as a responsible neighbor or a professional pet sitter, to take them for bathroom breaks.

Alternatively, train them to eliminate in a specific place indoors. Be aware, however, that doing this can prolong the process of housetraining. Teaching your puppy to eliminate on newspaper may create a life-long surface preference, meaning that even as an adult they may eliminate on any newspaper lying around the living room.

If you plan to paper-train, confine them to an area with enough room for a sleeping space, a playing space and a separate place to eliminate. In the designated elimination area, use either newspapers (cover the area with several layers of newspaper) or a sod box. To make a sod box, place sod in a container such as a child’s small, plastic swimming pool. You can also find dog-litter products at a pet supply store.

There are few things more exciting as a dog parent than that first year with your puppy, when everything is new and your puppy is growing and learning at an almost unstoppable pace.

From the day you bring your puppy home to the day it officially crosses over into adult dog territory, each milestone you hit is a reminder of the joys of life with dogs and the exciting transitions that make all those late night potty breaks (and early morning potty mishaps) worth it.

The exact age your puppy hits each of his major milestones in the first year depends on a couple of key factors, but by the time he turns about two to three, he should have all of them under his belt. So what are these milestones? Here are nine puppy milestones you’ll have to look forward to.

1. “Gotcha” Day

Gotcha day—also known as adoption day—is one of the most important milestones for both your puppy and for you. Give his time to explore his new home, and provide plenty of toys and chews so he doesn’t look to things like your furniture, shoes, and electrical cords for entertainment.

Be patient during these earliest days of your puppy checking out his new home. He won’t know what’s expected of him yet, and may be a bit stressed by being in an unfamiliar environment. However, with plenty of love and attention, it will start to feel like home in no time.

2. Meeting the Vet

Your new pup will need to meet his vet soon, since puppies need a lot of vaccinations in their first year. It’s also a good idea to have your puppy established with a vet as soon as possible in case you ever have any questions or mishaps.

Bring along any medical paperwork that was provided to you when you adopted your puppy. Dogs get their first vaccinations at roughly eight weeks of age but will need boosters within the next several weeks. The next booster typically is administered at around 12 weeks of age, and the third and final set at 16 weeks (this puppy vaccination schedule can give you a good idea of what’s needed when).

3. The End of House Training

With consistent house training your pup shouldn’t be having accidents in the house once they’re two to three months old.

To ensure you don’t have any setbacks, take your puppy out on a regular schedule, staying outside with him until he goes potty and giving lots of praise and treats. If he has an accident in the house, clean it up without talking or looking in their direction—that way, he won’t associate going to the bathroom in the house with getting your attention. And when he finally does ask to go outside, celebrate!

4. Starting to Interact With Other Dogs

The first 12 weeks of a puppy’s life are crucial when it comes to socialization, so it’s important that your puppy gets a chance to meet other dogs before he turns three months old. Start after week seven, since that’s when your puppy will have his first round of vaccinations.

Puppy classes are a good way to start, as are puppy play groups and bringing your puppy to meet the dogs of your friends and family members. Hold off on dog parks for now, until your puppy learns a bit more about dog manners.

5. Responding to His Name

It can take a few weeks for a puppy to learn his own name, depending on how consistently it’s used and what sort of training techniques are used. So that your puppy doesn’t get confused, only call him by his full name for these first several months and wait to try out all of his many nicknames until he’s got the basics down.

6. Losing His Baby Teeth

Yep, puppies lose baby teeth, too! Your pup’s baby teeth (sometimes also called milk teeth) will start to fall out around month four, and they should have a new set of adult chompers by month seven. Don’t be surprised if you don’t find any puppy teeth around the house, since most puppies just end up swallowing them; they are very tiny!

Once your puppy’s adult teeth are in, start getting him used to regular brushings, since the earlier you acclimate your pup to the feel of a toothbrush, the better.

7. Spay/Neuter

Puppies can be spayed or neutered as early as eight weeks old, but between months six and nine is more common and preferred to allow for adequate skeletal growth and maturity, especially in larger dog breeds.

8. Training Classes

Puppy class is mostly about socialization, but by the time your puppy is seven or eight months old, he should be ready for training class. There, he’ll learn crucial obedience skills like “sit,” “stay,” “leave it”, “heel”, and “come.” Note that you can train at home too, but make sure that your puppy is still getting plenty of outside socialization with other dogs.

9. First Birthday

Here’s a milestone that’s definitely worth pawty-ing over! By your puppy’s first birthday, he should have met all of the milestones on this list and be well on his way to being a loving and well behaved adult. Do be prepared though for what comes immediately after: your dog’s teenage years! There will be some acting out, but with patience you’ll get through it together.

Congratulations! You’ve just entered the Twilight Zone. In a good way, of course. For the next 10 or more years, you are going to have more fun and love and licks than you know what to do with. Let me help you get started with the first month, and then you and your puppy will be off and running to a great life together.

Going Home

The first day with your new puppy will involve travelling, whether it’s a short distance from the shelter or a local breeder or a long ride in a car or the cabin of a plane. This is the perfect opportunity to start teaching your puppy to love his crate. Be sure it’s well stocked with treats and, if possible, a towel or T-shirt that bears the scent of his mother and littermates. That will go a long way toward making him comfortable in his new surroundings.

When you arrive, make sure he potties before you bring him indoors. Praise him and give him a treat when he does. Keep him on leash inside — free run of the house is still far in his future.

Sit on the floor with him or on the sofa if you plan to allow him on the furniture. Love on him and talk to him, so he gets to know the sound of your voice and touch of your hand. This is a great time to start teaching him that it’s OK for you to touch his paws, look inside or sniff his ears, rub his belly, touch his tail and groom him with a soft brush.

Remember that puppies don’t have good bladder or sphincter control yet, and excitement can make them need to pee or poop. Take your puppy out to potty after 15 to 20 minutes of play, as well as after every meal. A potty run should be the first thing you do with him in the morning and the last thing you do with him at night.

Let your puppy spend a short amount of time in his crate. This is a big day for him, and he needs some time to himself, so he can process his new situation. It’s okay to have the crate in the living room or some other area in the home where people are coming and going, but don’t bug him while he’s in there. Unless he needs to go potty, walk away calmly if he starts to whine or bark. Don’t let him out until he’s quiet.

You’ll want to get your pup to the veterinarian within 48 hours of bringing him home. That’s important to make sure he’s in good health. Many puppy purchase contracts require an exam within that time frame as well. Without it, the seller may be unwilling to accept the pup’s return if he has a serious illness or congenital or hereditary defect.

The first visit can be strictly for a physical exam and weigh-in. It’s a good opportunity for your pup to meet some nice new people, get handled by them and get some yummy treats. Depending on when his last set of vaccinations took place, you can then schedule the next round of vaccinations.

Eating, Sleeping and Playing

Feeding your puppy does more than help him grow — it’s a way of bonding, and it gets him on a schedule that makes it easier for you to house-train him. Start with the food the breeder or shelter has been giving him. If you want to change it, gradually mix in the new food over a week to 10 days to limit tummy upset.

I don’t recommend free-feeding dogs — leaving food down all the time — at any point in their lives. A regular mealtime gives your dog something to look forward to, helps prevent obesity and ensures that you know if he is starting to eat less or becoming ravenous, both of which can indicate health problems. Consider hand-feeding your puppy for at least the first week he is with you. Just as you would if you were feeding him from a bowl, measure his food, so you don’t give too much. Give him pieces of kibble from your hand as long as he is sitting still or looking at you. Don’t reward him for jumping up, barking or doing anything else you don’t like. Feed him in different areas of the house.

If you walk away with the bowl and he follows you, give him some more. Sit in a chair or stand in the kitchen. Pretty soon, you can start asking him to do things, such as sit, down or spin for kibble rewards. This shouldn’t take more than a few minutes per meal, and any family member can do it.

The longer you hand-feed, the better. This will help your puppy to develop a soft mouth, so he doesn’t nip or bite when he takes things from your hands. It teaches trust and self-control. It helps him learn not to wolf down his food. And it creates a dog who will likely be crazy easy to train, because he will be so focused on you.

Your puppy’s socialization continues through the night — even though you’re both asleep. You may plan to let your pup sleep on the bed, but right now he’s still too young to be allowed that privilege. When it’s bedtime, take him out for one last pee and then matter-of-factly put him in his crate with a treat and his towel that smells like Mom. Don’t respond to whining or barking. Tell him good night and go to bed yourself. He’ll soon settle down, and your scent and the sound of your breathing will help to calm him.

Depending on his age, he might not be able to last through the night without another potty outing. If you hear whining or scratching at the crate door late at night, hustle him outdoors, so he can do his business, and then bring him right back into his crate. You don’t want him to get the idea that you’ll play with him in the middle of the night.

You most likely bought a few toys before bringing your new pup home. Now that you’ve observed him for a couple of days, you probably have a better idea of how he likes to play and what types of toys intrigue him. If he’s a big pup who likes to chew, make sure his toys are tough. They shouldn’t have any pieces that he can chew off and swallow or any stuffing that can come out if he rips the toy apart.

Some pups are gobblers. They rapidly bite off and swallow pieces of rawhide or anything else they can chew up. Avoid giving them anything like that and stick to large, tough rubber items, such as balls that they can’t take a bite out of.

I’m a big fan of puzzle toys, too. Put food or treats inside and watch your puppy go to work trying to figure out how to get at them.

Learning Starts Early

Depending on where you got him, his breed and his individual breeder, your pup is anywhere from 7 to 12 weeks old. That’s right during his critical learning period, when he is soaking up all kinds of information about the world around him and how he should behave in it.

This critical period lasts until he is 14 to 16 weeks old, so you may have as little as a couple of weeks to make the absolute most of this rapid learning stage. Of course, he’ll still learn afterward, but the things you teach during this time — good and bad — will really stick in his memory, so make sure it’s the right stuff. The goal is for him to have lots of positive experiences with friendly people, dogs and cats.

Meeting the neighbors, learning the sounds in your home and neighborhood, and going to the veterinarian for the first time are all part of your puppy’s socialization process. Once he’s been with you for a week, it’s time to turbocharge his introduction to the world.

During his critical learning period, your puppy should meet at least 100 different people, not just the same 10 people over and over again. To get the numbers up, introduce him to the people delivering mail and packages and the gardeners in your neighborhood. Take him for short car rides and on errands, where you can take him into local businesses, such as the dry cleaners, a private postal service or an open-air shopping mall. (Be sure he potties outside immediately before you take him onto the premises, so he’s always welcome back.) If it’s a place where other dogs might go, carry him in a puppy sling or backpack or put him in a cart and don’t expose him to other dogs until your veterinarian tells you he’s had enough vaccinations. Take treats for strangers to give him.

Meeting new people and having lots of different experiences is important, because it gives a puppy broad experience to draw on later in life. A puppy who has met only middle-aged people or only your friends or neighbors doesn’t cope as well when he meets other types of people, such as young children, people wearing uniforms, people in wheelchairs or people from other cultures.

A little adversity during this time is good for your pup’s adventurous soul. Moderate amounts of stress during the socialization period can prepare a puppy to be ready for anything. Give him a change of elevation by putting him on top of a picnic table or clothes dryer, or surprise him with a toy while playing peekaboo. These simple things can help him become unflappable as he matures.

Time for School

The first two to three weeks after you bring him into your house is a great time to start training him at home. You’re teaching him how to learn and developing a relationship with him at the same time — a real win-win! It’s easy to teach tricks, such as sit, down, come, high-five, roll over and more. You should also start to work with him on important commands like “drop it” and “give it,” which not only improve his manners but can help to keep him safe.

Start looking for a good puppy kindergarten class as soon as you take your pup home. By the time he has typically had two sets of vaccinations — usually by 10 to 12 weeks of age — he’s ready to start school. Ask your veterinarian when your puppy is ready.

Puppy kindergarten classes offer socialization opportunities with other pups and people. The trainer can help you learn to teach your dog throughout his life. If you’re smart, you’ll never let learning end for your dog. Learning new things keeps his mind and body active and helps to keep him out of trouble.

Here are six things your puppy should be learning:

No teeth on people — ever!

No jumping up on people.

Always potty outside (don’t give him any chances to make a mistake).

Meeting people is great!

One of the most common questions we receive from our clients concerns feeding. From how much to feed, what type of food to feed and what time(s) of day to feed, the options in today’s pet food market can perplex even the most educated pet owner. Not only do food-intake needs of each pet vary, but they change throughout his/her life. Read on for a general overview of our recommendations for keeping your pet at his/her optimal health through offering a well-balanced and healthy feeding routine.

Frequency of feedings

Puppies and kittens should be fed 4-6 times a day. This should gradually decrease by the time the pet reaches 50 percent of his/her adult body weight. At this stage, pets should be fed three meals per day. Dogs that burn extra calories, such as working or exceedingly active dogs, should be fed more frequently to satisfy their added energy requirements.

Smaller, more frequent feedings might be suitable for pets with health problems that decrease their appetite.

Feeding methods

Because over-consumption of food is a leading cause of pet obesity, Banfield does not recommend all-day access to food. Instead, implement portion-control feeding, in which food is measured using a standard cooking cup to weigh the amount of food your veterinarian recommends for your pet’s daily intake. Feed your pet at the same times each day to regulate the digestive system and avoid accidents.

Typically, dogs prefer an element of privacy when they are eating. Put down the bowl of food and walk away. Leave the bowl down for 5-10 minutes (if your dog is a slow eater, this period can be extended to twenty minutes, but only if he is still eating during that time and hasn’t gone off in search of other entertainment), and then pick it up, regardless of whether your dog has eaten or not. While most dogs will dig in the moment you place the bowl on the floor, you may find that your adopted dog is a finicky eater, at least at first. After all, he’s been thrust into a new home with new people, and he may be too nervous to eat. If this is the case, you will need to teach him to eat on a schedule. Put the bowl back down at the next scheduled feeding, for 5-10 minutes. Your dog will learn to eat when you put the bowl down, and not to linger and nibble throughout the day.

Another benefit of set feedings is that a dog who eats on a schedule bathrooms on a schedule. In addition, if you live in an urban area, leaving a bowl of kibble on the ground all day can attract unwanted house guests, like cockroaches and mice. It is to everyone’s advantage to keep feeding times regular.

Having regularly scheduled feeding times not only establishes a routine, it also allows you to monitor your dog’s health. Remember that sometimes the only way to recognize that your dog is ill is a lack of appetite. If your dog has his food down all day and usually just picks at it, it may be two or three days before you notice that he hasn’t eaten; whereas the dog that gobbles his meals as soon as you put the bowl down would be easy to recognize when he is ill.

Providing enough water

Pets should have access to clean, fresh water at all times. If you are concerned that your pet is not consuming enough water, feeding canned food helps encourage water consumption. Cats typically prefer to drink at night because they are nocturnal in nature. Because cats are very sensitive to getting their whiskers wet, use a bowl with a wide surface area.

Providing snacks and treats

Treats can be an important tool for training your pet’s behavior as well as bonding with your pet. It’s important to remember that treats should only be used as a reward—not as a supplement to food or for any other reason. Unless recommended by your veterinarian for your pet’s specific situation, your pet’s physical health does not require the use of treats or supplements to stay healthy.

If you decide to feed your pet treats as a training tool, ensure that it is specifically designed for a dog or cat. Do not feed your pet human foods as treats or supplements, since this can cause a wide range of health problems from gastrointestinal upset to more serious problems. Low-calorie treats are more desirable because they will be less likely to contribute to weight gain. Contact your veterinarian if you have feeding questions specific to your pet.

How to Train Your Dog to Eat:

For the first week:

pour kibble into bowl

raise bowl over the dogs head

command, sit

place bowl on the floor and let the dog eat

For the second week:

pour kibble into bowl

hold up bowl in front of dog

command, sit

start to lower bowl to floor AS LONG as the dog is sitting

as soon as the dog gets up to go to the bowl, stand up and hold the bowl up in front of you again

repeat, sit, lowering bowl as soon as he sits

keep raising it back up as he gets up, each time you should be able to get it slightly lower than the previous time

keep at this (it’s good for the upper thighs) until you actually have the bowl on the floor, with your hands off of it AND YOUR DOG IS STILL SITTING

then release him with an okay and let him eat—make sure you don’t release him AS he is already getting up – take the time to make sure he is solidly sitting and staying before you release him to go eat

For the third week:

your dog should be able to sit and wait patiently until you release him

so, as he is sitting and waiting, you can label the command, stay

every stay has a release, okay

For the fourth week:

(this week we work on getting more distance from your dog)

pour kibble into bowl

dog should be sitting and waiting patiently by this time

place bowl a little further from him

release with an okay and let him eat

I thoroughly support doing body handling and bathing prep on your own before taking your dog to a groomer. First off, it’s really important that you’re able to handle your dog or bathe them if there’s an emergency or if a groomer isn’t available, and second, it absolutely helps your pet be more comfortable if you’ve made it a super positive experience. The best way to help your dog be comfortable with the steps involved in grooming is to train them to engage voluntarily: work on voluntarily getting into the tub, holding a station cue or a target cue or a chin rest during bathing; practice body handling in a way that allows your dog to choose to disengage, etc. 

I’d actually suggest you find the groomer you want to work with before you even start training, and go talk to them about your concerns and what training you’re interested in doing. From my experiences talking to friends who do grooming work, they’ll be happy for an owner to be invested in making the dog’s experience better because that keeps the groomers safer and makes their work day much easier. At minimum, find out what types of handling and tools your dog should be comfortable around so you can practice that and do some desensitization to weird noises or sensations. You might find a groomer who is happy to work with you and use the training you’re doing when your dog is in their salon, but don’t expect it - ideally, you want to be setting your dog up for success but not setting up a situation where your requests will add extra time or effort requirements from your groomer. 

One of the things I always recommend to everyone is that you train your pup to comfortably wear a basket muzzle. Even if your dog is wonderful and friendly and perfect, there will likely be some point in her life when a vet or a groomer has to something to her that, while beneficial, is painful and that she will want them to stop doing. That is a point where even dogs with no behavioral problems may decide to use their mouths to communicate their feelings, and that’s where they’ll need to muzzle her for everyone’s safety. It’s much easier on your dog and safer for everyone if she’s comfortable with a muzzle and has a basket one that fits her (rather than the super-restrictive medical ones) and will just stick her face on it. While this is less of a concern with grooming if your dog is comfortable with body handling, your groomers will immensely appreciate knowing that she’s muzzle trained if they need one for some reason. Here’s some resources on muzzle training from The Muzzle Up Project that I highly recommend for training a dog to happily and comfortably wear one. 

After a few days in his new home, this poor little Aussie was having a little difficulty adjusting to his new setting.  After his first few days his Mom says he is still crying at night.  I discussed the things that help make transitions easier.  One disadvantage for him was that since his Mom works during the day he is spending the day at Grandma’s house until she comes home from work.  It is a lot for a puppy to transition from one home to two homes.  But puppies are very resilient and he will adjust to his new routines very soon.

Every puppies experience will be a little different.  I wanted to share some things I have read that help a puppy to sleep quietly at night…

 Most puppies when moved to a strange place, cry for the first week or two. It is completely normal and it is because they are frightened, they do not understand where their littermates went or where their mother is. They basically want attention and many new dog owners become worried that the dog is just not happy with them. The best way to sort the problem out is to ignore it. It can be hard to do because it is the same as hearing a baby crying for help and not going to help them. It tugs on the heart strings and it is difficult to ignore.

 However, if you do ignore the problem then the puppy will eventually realize that crying does not help and that they will still see you in the morning. Some puppies do not cry at all, others cry for a few nights, whilst some simply will not give up for a week or two. So, just persevere and you will notice that the problem does go away, just as long as you do not give the puppy any attention whilst it is moaning.    Anonymous

   Here are my best tips for night time….

- Use the crate as a bed for all the puppies naps during the day so he associates his crate with sleep

- Use a blanket in his bed, since that was what he is use to

—Use the ‘blankie’ for the litter smells.

-  Routine is very important.  Keep to a regular schedule.

-  Make sure the puppy is very active in the late afternoon so he is plenty tired.

- Don’t let puppy nap a few hours before bedtime

- Take puppy out to the potty right before bed. 

- Put him to bed at a regular time, when the rest of the house is quieting down.

- Put him in his crate, and close the door.  If he cries you cannot take him out or you are rewarding him for crying and he will cry to get his way.

- Keep the puppy crate in your bedroom so he can be near his new pack.

- If he won’t settle down after half an hour, then move him to another room, so you can get your rest.

- Bring him back to your room the next night, and try again.  Eventually he will see it as a reward to be in your room, and he will realize that crying only moves him to another room.

Don’t Shoot The Dog by Karen Pryor 

The Other End of The Leash by Patricia Mcconnell

The Culture Clash by Jean Donaldson

The Puppy Primer by Patricia Mcconnell

Before You Get Your Puppy by Ian Dunbar

After You Get Your Puppy by Ian Dunbar

I hear Kikopup’s youtube channel is good 

Susan Garrett’s Crate Games 

How Dogs Learn by Mary Burch and Jon Bailey

Every single dog breeder on God’s Green Earth will tell you that they breed for mental and physical soundness. Each and every one. All of them. That doesn’t make it true.

Don’t buy from anyone you wouldn’t return it to.

Withholding information? Dodging questions? Get iffy when you ask for documentation rather than just taking their word for it? Hmm. I wonder why.

Don’t make decisions you can’t justify to yourself.

Common sense gets you far.

Recall (or coming when called) is something that a lot of people have trouble teaching effectively. I practice recall with students in every level of dog training class that I teach, and by the higher level classes, practice looks pretty tough. We scatter toys, chew hooves and other tempting items around the practice area, allow the dogs to become interested, and then promptly call them away and back to us. Pretty impressive!

What surprises a lot of people is that the same dogs who perform tough exercises like this in class are oftentimes unable to be off leash outside, and in many cases will even ignore owners who call them from a fenced yard. They’ve learned that in controlled situations, coming when called is typically their best option - they get a treat out of it, after all! Additionally, during training class their owners are usually all-business and practice exactly as they should.

The problem is, many owners have a habit of practicing by-the-book in class and making little mistakes at home. Even owners who take their dogs out for practice sessions throughout the week can easily forget the rules during their day-to-day life. These are some of the most common mistakes I observe, and explanations of why they are so damaging.

1. “Come” leads to punishment or other undesirable outcomes

This can mean two things. In the first type of scenario, a dog learns that coming when called is followed by something unpleasant. For instance, a dog owner wakes up in the morning, puts her dog in the yard, gets ready for work, then goes to collect the dog to put him in his crate before she leaves for the day. The dog learns that after “come”, he goes into the crate - especially if this routine is common. The dog decides he’s much better off poking around in the yard for a few more minutes and starts ignoring the owners requests. Until recalls are reliable (though ideally, not even then), dogs should never be called before crating, nail trims, or other undesirable activities.

In the second scenario, an owner calls the dog but it doesn’t come (or doesn’t come immediately). When it finally makes it back or when it’s retrieved, the owner harshly scolds the dog for not responding like it should have. This is absolutely counterproductive as it tells the dog that returning to the owner leads to being punished. If a dog thinks that this is what happens when they are called, they will naturally be disinclined to listen!

2. “Come” is not a single cue, but a collection of words and noises

Everything we teach our dog must have a cue to make it happen. For instance, “sit”, “down”, or “shake”. In this case, it could be “come” or “here” or anything else that will be easy for you to remember. However, for many people, what starts as “come” often turns into “Come! C'mere! Come on, pup! Lets go! Come on!” This phenomenon is incredibly common, yet nobody would tell their dog to do anything else with such fuzzy or random cues. If you want your dog to come every time it is called, pick a cue and stick to it - otherwise you can expect poor reliability.

3. “Come” is made ignorable

If you aren’t convinced that your dog will respond when you call it, then don’t! The reason being, if we do and the dog chooses to ignore us, he learns instantaneously that he CAN ignore this command. It’s pretty simple. Sometimes I catch people starting to ask me how they can make their dog come to them if they can’t call it - and I remind them that if their dog could come when it was called, we wouldn’t be having this conversation. Until recalls are reliable, zip your lips and get your dog to you another way. If necessary, make a “no words” policy and use whistles, kissy noises, hand claps or excited “pup pup!” sounds to encourage your dog along.

Sessions for training “come” should be planned. Dogs should be on a long training line (something lightweight, so that they’re not really aware they are leashed) while practicing. If we say “come” and the dog ignores us to sniff a bush (or whatever), we can begin to shorten the line to retrieve the dog. The dog learns that he cannot ignore this command, and if he does, we’ll just remove him from the reinforcement he was hoping to find elsewhere. However, if he does listen, he gets praise and a treat party!

4. Marking “come” at the wrong time

Many people will wait until the dog arrives at their feet to mark (verbally or with a clicker). The problem here is that “come” should be met with an immediate response from the dog. By waiting until they arrive to praise them, many owners unintentionally communicate to their dog that they can do whatever they’d like after the owner calls, as long as they eventually come.

Once recall practice has started we need to let our dogs know that they have a very short amount of time to respond. We should strive to see immediate recognition of the command - so mark the moment they turn and start moving toward you. Most dogs who have been in training before this point will hear their mark and already be on the way to you for a reward, which is also helpful.

Once the dog arrives you only need to provide the anticipated reward. However, many owners will mark a second time upon the arrival of the dog to say “yep, this is where you stop. Thanks!” For instance, if I find that a dog comes reliably but stops too far away from me, I’ll raise criteria by marking for moving closer to my feet until they “land” where they should.

5. Owners “go after” the dog, and the dog becomes evasive

A dogs oppositional reflex is powerful. If we move towards a dog, they back further away. If we step away from a dog, they move towards us. Many people make moves toward a dog they are trying to call and unintentionally compel the dog to back away. If a dog seems reluctant to come when called, the trainer should move (if not sprint) away from the dog after calling it. It may sound counterintuitive, but believe me on this one! It is also important to pay attention to your body language. Do not face a dog who seems reluctant to come head-on. Turn slightly away from the dog to appear more approachable - and squatting down usually doesn’t hurt either.

So, moving onto what you SHOULD do…

1. Build enthusiasm

When a dog hears “come”, we want them to be turned towards us by the time we’re done saying it. To get that kind of speed it sure helps to have enthusiasm!

Many dogs have issues with recall since in many cases they’re already in forward motion - perhaps even chasing something. Many dogs hate losing momentum, so teach them that if they fly back to you there’s more fun to be had!

One way we teach this is through a game called skitterball. To play skitterball, call your dog as usual, but instead of handing them a treat when they arrive, roll or throw it away from you. Most dogs quickly gain speed in their recall once they realize that they could miss a flying treat! Another way you can gain speed is by calling your dog, marking as soon as they turn, and immediately running in the opposite direction. Your dog will probably run to catch up, and in doing so, learn that “come” needs to be fast.

2. Teach impulse control

Most dogs have little trouble with recall during a training session - they get the pattern and they know that they will be rewarded, so why not? But being called out of distracting activity or away from something interesting is a totally different story.

A firm foundation of obedience and practice in any behavior involving impulse control (stay, wait, leave it, etc) will help, to start. Our dogs need to learn that sometimes they’ll have to “just say no”. These are two of my favorite impulse control exercises which relate to teaching come:

-In the first exercise, start with your dog on a standard 6’ lead. Hold it firmly.

-Take a treat and throw it just out of your dog’s reach.

-Your dog will presumably pull towards the treat. As they’re straining on the leash, call them. “Skippy, come!”

-Do not repeat your verbal cue if the dog does not respond. If the dog is unresponsive and does not stop straining towards the treat after being called after 30 seconds or so, begin to gently pull the dog away from the treat. Don’t jerk them away harshly, since we ultimately want the dog to make the decision to come. If we rely on the leash to get a response there will be no reliability without it.

-The instant your dog turns to you, regardless of how long it took (for now - that rule changes down the line), mark. If your dog is moving towards you slowly, jog backwards to encourage them to gain speed. Once they make it to you, treat and praise heavily!

This exercise can be mixed-up by throwing toys, by practicing around dogs, or (for people-loving pups) by having a helper stand out of the dogs reach while verbally engaging him / her (“hey puppy! Hey bud! Whose a good pup?!”).

Another game that I play is find it / come. This is a fun one, and helps to build both enthusiasm and impulse control.

-Start by tossing a few treats onto the ground. Point to the treats and instruct your dog to “find it!”

-As soon as they seem to be finishing with the treats, call them excitedly.

-Mark the moment they turn to you, and praise / reward when they make it to your feet.

-Practice this way several times, and once your dog is immediately responding to your cue you can try making it tougher. Either pretend to throw a treat (if your dog will fall for it) or deliberately toss treats into taller grass or the edge of a bush to make them difficult to find.

-At this point we’re roughly simulating the frustration a dog may feel while deciding whether to come or to blow off their owner in order to do something else (chase a rabbit, continue playing with another dog, etc). The first few times a dog may be slow to respond, so be sure to utilize backup techniques if necessary. For instance, if you call once and your dog looks at you but isn’t moving yet, try a backwards jog. Or if your dog listens but clearly isn’t happy about it, “skitter” your treats once they get to you instead of handing them to build excitement. Most dogs will start to come pretty quickly, even when pulled out of this frustrating situation, because finding the treats might be tough but the treats they get for responding are guaranteed.

-After repeating that step until your dog comes back from the frustrating treat-tosses quickly, make it even harder. Scatter treats in a more obvious area, and like before, ask your dog to “find it” - but this time, call the dog back before they can finish eating them all. Make sure that “come” is crisp, friendly, and said excitedly!

-If you try this and your dog is insistent upon finishing the treats before responding, quickly gather the treats they’re trying to eat or simply say “oops!”, take their leash, and walk them away. When you first try this it’s best to toss something less appealing (like dry dog food) but offer high-value rewards (hotdogs, chicken, freeze-dried liver, etc) for recall to give the dog incentive to respond. As they get better with this exercise, you can vary the reinforcement they receive and call them away from more tempting items.

A few more tips….

Dogs should be on a training lead until they’re fully reliable so that we’re always able to retrieve them quickly. This way, they get the message that ignoring us doesn’t mean that they’ll be able to evade us for long. When they’re off leash, ignoring us provides precious moments (or minutes, in some cases) of freedom, and the inevitable chase that ensues between a loose dog and it’s owner is often all the reinforcement a dog needs to run away. To teach our dogs that they can’t ignore our commands, we first need to make that true by maintaining control.

Also, don’t persue your dog while trying to teach come. Many owners find themselves trying to “keep up” with their dog - frequently calling them back and making sure they can’t go too far or out of sight. Instead, we should aim to teach our dogs that they need to keep an eye on us if they want to explore.

One way this can be done is by playing hide-and-seek. If you have a nervous dogs who panics when you’re out of sight, this usually isn’t necessary (and could actually be quite cruel). But if you have a dog that will run away without looking back, it’s not a bad idea to teach them that they could easily get lost - and that finding yourself alone is quite scary.

With your dog in a safe fenced area or on a long training line, practice recall a few times to set a positive tone and encourage attentiveness. Next encourage your dog to independently explore, run, and sniff. When they seem occupied, discreetly jump behind a bush or tree and “spy” on them. Once they realize that they’re alone most will pause, look around, and perhaps panic visibly. Wait for a bit to see if your dog can find you on his own, but if they seem to be struggling immensely or going the wrong way, whistle, “pup pup!’”, make kissy noises, etc, to help them find you. Once they do, throw a party. Happy voices, verbal praise, and plenty of treats!

Another way we can encourage dogs to pay attention is by changing direction erratically from time to time. Walk through a field, parking lot, or other large area at a brisk pace. When your dog picks up speed and is ahead of you, turn around or change direction. Give them some time to notice and change direction with you (try not to resort to calling until you’re going to run out of training line), and if they do, toss them a treat as they run past you. I like to encourage dogs to a) follow my lead and keep an eye on my whereabouts and b) make occasional “drive-by” runs to check in with me, so these direction-changing drills help teach both. As the dog starts to keep up and check in more often you can absolutely start to vary the frequency with which you actually offer a treat, until all you need is a quick “thank you” pat or verbal praise.

On that note, as you’re practicing you may begin to wonder when you can stop using treats. The best answer is that you shouldn’t. Not completely, anyway. If your dog has practiced recall reliably for several sessions, you should absolutely begin to vary your rate of reinforcement. If you’re doing well, give something like this a shot:

- Call your dog. Mark and provide a treat. Repeat 3-5 times.

-Call your dog. Mark, but when your dog arrives, verbally praise and pat them instead of giving a treat.

-Call your dog, mark and treat.

-Call your dog, mark, give a brief positive acknowledgement before moving on.

-Call your dog, mark and have a tugging or fetching session.

… And mix it up from there! Once your dog is reliable you can certainly cut back back on the number of treats you offer, but if your dog begins making mistakes or seems to be losing interest, raise your rate of reinforcement until it’s doing well again. Try to end sessions on a high note!

As a final tip, for all but perhaps the very first session or two, treats should be concealed in your pocket or a bait bag and only removed once your dog has received a mark. By not calling your dog while food is visible, you avoid the possibility of finding yourself in a situation in which your dog refuses to come because he doesn’t see a treat your hand!