Melanie in Misr

It is with much regret that this blog post is my last as the inaugural EES Cairo Fellow. Less than a month shy of completion, I had to urgently fly back to Australia this week for family reasons. It breaks my heart that I cannot continue my time in this fabulous role, which has been ever so rewarding, memorable and enriching, but I will certainly keep myself electronically connected and hope to remotely Tweet (@melanie_misr) and Facebook (Melanie Pitkin and ‘EES Cairo Friends’) some of the upcoming activities happening in Egypt on behalf of the EES team.

In my absence, a wonderful group of EES staff, colleagues and friends of mine will be delivering and overseeing these activities. This includes the inaugural ‘EES Professional Skills for Egyptology’ day on Monday March 7 (see the full program here). I am incredibly saddened not to be in Cairo for this event and would like to point out that in place of my lecture at 11am, Dr Nigel Strudwick will be presenting a talk/demonstration on the use of databases in Egyptology – a topic which I know many people are extremely interested to learn more about. Also coming up soon is an event at the Ministry of Antiquities on March 8 for International Women’s Day (thanks to Essam) and further talks to be delivered by Dr Nigel Strudwick on March 9 at the British Council and March 10 at the Egyptian Museum. I will promote these on Facebook shortly. I also continue to be connected to email to answer any questions you might have (especially from those participants who took part in my ‘Research Skills for Egyptology’ workshops).

This week I hit my 10th ‘Research Skills for Egyptology’ workshop (I’ve actually done 11 now) – which equates to more than 22 hours of ‘Ustaza Melanie’ talking time! Since starting a little under a month ago, I can confirm that we’ve reached more than 150 Egyptian Egyptologists and archaeologists in Luxor, Aswan and Cairo (with several more workshops planned for Alexandria, Minya and the Fayum). The youngest participant, thus far, has been a 15-year-old schoolboy from Aswan. While, at the other end of the spectrum, I’ve had the Assistant Professor of Egyptology from Fayum University, the General Director of Karnak Temple, the Director of the Nubian Museum and a number of high ranking administrative staff from the Ministry of Antiquities.

As a part of this, I also continue to process the evaluation forms from each workshop participant as a measure for future professional skills’ initiatives. This is quite an enjoyable process, especially when I come across delightful Egyptian-English comments thanking me for my lecture. Since ‘Melanie’ isn’t exactly the most familiar name to native Arabic speakers, I’m often called by an array of substitutes, including Melly, Manila, Meanie, ‘Doctora’ (this is a little bit premature, but still quite welcome!), Pitkin (Essam’s favourite) and Mrs Melanie (as opposed to the infamous, Mr Melanie, which I am better known as to some people in Middle Egypt!). Almost all of these names raise a smile on my face, but I particularly liked seeing the remark on one participant’s survey form this week, which said “Thank you Melina for this beautiful lecture” (see above). There was something about reading this that made my heart turn all warm and fuzzy (or, should I say, warmer and fuzzier). I don’t think I ever set out to create a “beautiful lecture”, as such (perhaps a comprehensive and informative one is more to the point), but in any case, I’ll happily take credit for this!

Yesterday I also presented a paper on my current Fellowship position at the Graduate Annual Research Discussions on Egypt and Nubia (GARDEN III) conference at the German Archaeological Institute in Zamalek. This conference, now in its third year, focuses on Egyptology research methods so was the perfect forum to share some of my approaches to understanding the Egyptian Egyptology scene in Egypt, developing and delivering my professional skills lectures and the process for analyzing the results from my evaluation forms. I felt, however, that a few sensitivities were encountered around some of the results – particularly in terms of the English language barrier to Egyptian scholars, as well the idea that ‘foreigners know how to do it better’. I welcome all types of constructive feedback, of course, but I really don’t want anyone to misunderstand the Egypt Exploration Society’s intentions, or any other foreign institute for that matter. I believe we learn from each other with the best interests of the subject at heart and, ultimately, want to advance our collective scientific understanding of the ancient Egyptian past. I’ve also always emphasised that the types of professional skills we are trying to build in Egypt are similarly in need by many foreign students as well. It goes both ways. But, at the end of the day, we have to start somewhere and we are not afraid to confess that we’re learning as we go!

Things are back to normal now. Well, that’s how Essam sees it anyway (as per the post-it note I found on my ‘tiny’ desk yesterday morning – see above!). That’s right, I’ve had to relinquish my ‘mudira’ title and give back the big desk with the padded chair! But, that’s okay. I actually sort of missed him! Essam is a very friendly and funny guy - who is also constantly glued to his phone – which means you kind of get used to thinking and typing along to the melodious tunes of his ‘Sayedi Arabic’ (that means Arabic from Upper Egypt). It should perhaps also mean that I’m close to being fluent in Arabic myself (oh, how I wish that were the case! It seems, however, that for all my multitasking talents, being usefully multilingual is just never going to be one of them). Regardless, I think I held the fort quite well, thanks to the assistance of a number of fabulous volunteers – including Muhamed and the two Mustafas (pictured below left) – who helped to make sure all my workshops continued to run smoothly. They also did a splendid job at ‘shooing’ the cats out of my classroom (pictured below right). Although, to be honest, feral cats and dogs are just part of the furniture in Egypt, so this isn’t particularly anything out of the ordinary at all!

If you’re a Facebook friend or Twitter follower (@melanie_misr) of mine, you might have noticed a post or two that indicates I’ve had a strangely adventurous past few days. In between working on my talk for the GARDEN conference taking place this Saturday at the DAIK and organizing the ‘EES Professional Skills for Egyptology’ day on March 7, I’ve also had the chance to visit a few historic and archaeological sites. One of these is my beloved Saqqara (well-known for the first monumental example of architecture in stone - the Step Pyramid of Djoser - pictured below, as well as a number of other very important funerary complexes). My first fieldwork experience in Egypt also took place here in the Teti Pyramid Cemetery back in 2005, so it certainly holds some special memories for me. And, I’ve since accrued many more...

Among these, now includes my impromptu Saturday visit. I was feeling in need of some open space and cleaner air, but by doing something still not too far removed from my academic work. So, Saqqara felt like an obvious choice. Before I left my apartment, however, I knew I had to plan a few logistics in advance - Where did I want to visit? How long did I want to be out for? And, who would take me? I was considering booking a driver through Uber, but decided to wing it with a taxi instead. As a seasoned Egyptian taxi user, I had a mental idea of how much it would cost me for a round-trip, but was similarly aware that this doesn’t necessarily ever guarantee the outcome you’re expecting (everything hinges on the good nature, or not, of your driver). I ended up being driven by Ali (mysteriously pictured with me in Teti’s burial chamber below). Ali and I seemingly got on well. From the beginning, we agreed on a price (200LE-250LE for up to 4 hours). He also decided to accompany me on all my site visits - from the Imhotep Museum to the Teti Pyramid, the tombs of Kagemni and Ptahhotep, Djoser’s Step Pyramid and Unis’s pyramid complex. If I understood Ali correctly, he actually said he’d never visited any of these sites before. Assuming this was true, I was innocently enjoying trying to converse with him about the monuments (albeit at an incredibly elementary level e.g. Shoof! Ahram Unis “Look! Unis Pyramid” followed by me pointing at a wall relief Himaar “Donkey”!). So, through these exchanges I thought Ali and I had established a ‘bond’. On the journey home, he even wanted to make sure I was well-hydrated, so bought me some water and, after I expressed interest in buying fresh fruit, arranged for me to go home with 6 kilos of bananas and oranges (because, I really needed that many!).

Sadly, however, this pleasant experience turned sour. When Ali dropped me back to my apartment and I handed him 240LE for his services, he suddenly heated up. “No, no, no”, he said. “Melanie, Melanie, Melanie. Khamsa-miyya, khamsa-miyyya. 250LE for one-way!”, he demanded. Khamsa-miyya is, of course, 500LE. Initially, I reacted somewhat jovially because I thought he was just trying to push his luck with me, but he became even more insistent and irate. It actually got to the point where I left the money with him and got out in haste. But, I could hear he was also getting out behind me. In this moment, I was genuinely quite scared and leapt up two-flights of stairs, simultaneously fumbling to get the keys out of my bag to unlock my front door. In the meantime, I could hear him ascending the stairs below. My heart was truly pounding. I didn’t think he could see which apartment I was in, but I still kept all the lights off and just sat in my bedroom for the next 20 minutes or so hoping the situation would pass. And then, suddenly, the door bell rang. Twice. I didn’t move at all. I suspect it was Ali, but I couldn’t be sure. My boab (doorman) didn’t seem to be anywhere during this whole incident either. Time soon passed and things seem to have settled, but even so, I preferred not to go out anywhere else that evening. I had food home delivered and then, fortunately, as I was having friends over the next morning for breakfast (pictured below), had some peace of mind knowing that my return to the world would be in safe company. 

Back to Cairo now, but I still have Aswan on my mind. I’m currently sitting in Café Riche – Cairo’s meeting place for writers, thinkers, artists and change-makers. Once inhabited by legendary folk like Naguib Mahfouz and Gamal Abdel Nasser, there is a certain contemplative calmness evoked by the slender, male waiters who serve you in their cobalt blue and yellow trimmed galabayas, solo diners who puff away on camel cigarettes while perusing the Al-Ahram and black-and-white photographs of Cairo’s ‘Golden Days’ animating the gallery-style walls. In fact, I just discovered that the headwaiter, ‘Felfel’ (pictured above – image courtesy of Scoopempire.com), has been working at Café Riche since 1943! That’s an incredible 73 years! Watching him gracefully serve my bowl of shorba khedar (vegetable soup) also reminds me of my recent time in Aswan, which I enjoyed ever so much! So, in this perfect setting, I thought I’d reflect a little further on my memorable past few days in upper, Upper Egypt.

First of all, since the Nubian doors proved such a hit in my last post (especially on Twitter @melanie_misr), I thought I’d start by sharing with you some of the colourful window decoration (above) and street art (below). Honestly, wherever you turn, there’s something to admire. Although I didn’t take any photographs of this, it’s also common to find small groups of women in their black abayas and hijabs seated or lying below the windows outside – perhaps sharing in the day’s gossip or waiting to receive members of their family after they come home from school or work. Most evenings, I’d meander the narrow streets – forgetting everything else in the world – just breathing in my surrounds (well, at least until the children started throwing stones at me! Yes, you read right. On two occasions, I encountered a small group of unruly children in one pocket of our local village who demanded a kalam – pen. After I told them I didn’t have one, I started having stones thrown my way. Not so much because they wanted to hurt me, but to get my attention. This actually rattled me a bit, so I made sure not to return to that particular area again). The scene below, on the other hand, appears in a much different setting – on the banks of the Nile opposite a row of floating restaurants frequented by foreigners and holidaying Egyptians. We celebrated Dr Martin Bommas’s birthday here (after my lecture at the Nubian Museum) and enjoyed some traditional sheesh tawook (chicken kebabs), batatas (potatoes) and aysh (bread) with tahina (a traditional Egyptian dip).

Aswan (part of the first Upper Egyptian nome) is home to a number of highly significant archaeological sites. On the east bank, are the granite quarries, town and temples of Aswan proper; on the west bank are the rock-cut tombs of Qubbet el-Hawa (where Martin and Essam are working on a joint EES-University of Birmingham mission) and in the middle are the temples, settlement and Nilometer of Elephantine Island. On a personal note, Qubbet el-Hawa is another important site for my PhD research – particularly with regards to the tomb of Setka (early Herakleopolitan Period), as well as other earlier officials of Pepy II. Unfortunately, I was unable to gain access inside Setka, but could still see his unique false door through the tomb entrance. Regardless, it was wonderful to be able to gain a clearer understanding of the arrangement of the tombs on the terraces, their relationship to each other and the causeways leading to the Nile River. You can see an example of this in the picture below. That dark line extending down the hill is the causeway of Serenput I, which links the river to his tomb on top of the hill.  After Serenput I died, he would have been transported in his coffin from his home on Elephantine Island via barge to Qubbet el-Hawa, amidst an elaborate funerary procession. His coffin would have been brought to his tomb chapel before being lowered into the burial chamber and then sealed for eternity (however, eternity never lasted very long when ancient grave robbers came along to desecrate the tomb). After this high official’s burial, it is thought other contemporary officials of lower status were also buried down the hill besides the causeway. It is these types of burials, which Martin and Essam are planning to study.

As is commonly found in Egypt, the tombs at Qubbet el-Hawa have also been occupied during later times as well. There is a Coptic monastery enveloping the tombs north of Heqaib I and Heqaib II and a few early Islamic Period structures, including a sheikh’s tomb surmounted by a cupola (dome), after which the site is named (Qubbet el-Hawa literally means ‘Dome of the winds’). Forever the adventurer, I climbed to the very top (butchering my faithful Cotton On boots even more) to marvel at the most spectacular view of Aswan and the Nile River you can get (see below). It also offered a fabulous aerial view of the archaeological work underway by the Spanish team Directed by Dr Alejandro Jiménez Serrano of the University of Jaén.

It’s Valentine’s Day now and it’s safe to say, Gubba (the Nubian village we are staying at) has captured my heart. As you can see from the picture above, it’s an incredibly colourful and vibrant place. I’ve become completely mesmerised by all the different front door designs and have started curating my own photographic diary of them. We are also the only foreigners here. While everyone is very welcoming, it’s apparent we’re also a bit of a novelty and - no doubt - the 'talk of the town’. I really love trying to interact with everyone. Most of the time, this conversation is quite limited, but yesterday afternoon I shared some lovely moments with the daughter, niece and nephew of our cook (see below). We used drawing to make up for our lack of English/Arabic conversational skills and it was great fun (even if we couldn't always recognise each other’s drawings!).

The main reason I am currently in Gubba, however, is to visit a new joint EES-University of Birmingham mission to Qubbet el-Hawa (directed by Dr Martin Bommas, pictured below left, and Mr Essam Nagy). This is an absolutely fabulous site. Martin and Essam are investigating a previously un-excavated part of the cemetery and are spending this short season focusing on surveying, planning and photography before they return again in September. Qubbet el-Hawa is well-known for the rock-cut tombs of a number of important late Old Kingdom, First Intermediate Period and Middle Kingdom officials, although the cemetery was also occupied much later (right into Coptic and early Islamic times). Among these, include the tombs of Harkhuf, Heqaib, Mehu and Sabni, Setka and Serenput. I had the wonderful chance to visit all of these tombs today, and look forward to sharing more in my next post.

This morning I also delivered a ‘Research Skills for Egyptology’ workshop to over 20 students, inspectors, curators and museum administration staff at the impressive Nubian Museum. This was the first time I’d been here and was a little taken back to see the formal lecture theatre I was presenting in (see above)! But, I’ve become ever so adaptable in this role – in fact, I’m almost completely unfazed by anything these days (yes, really!). I also had a chance to visit Elephantine Island this afternoon (another first for me). This is an incredibly complicated site, but so rich in Egyptian history, including the most comprehensive stratigraphy from Dynasty 2 to the Ptolemaic Period existing anywhere in Egypt. I was also amazed by the size of the ‘elephant-like’ boulders of the First Cataract, which I also hadn’t laid eyes on before.

For the next two weeks, I’ve been made the mudira (that’s Arabic for “boss” or “manager”). It’s even been made official (see the post-it note below)! I’ve been upgraded to the “big office” (i.e. desk), I’m allowed to answer the phone, I have a few volunteers to supervise and, most important of all, I get the comfy chair with armrests! You see, Essam is working on a joint EES-University of Birmingham mission to Aswan until Februray 20 (I’ll be joining the team briefly over the weekend), so I’ve been left to hold the fort. Not only that, I’m continuing to run my ‘Research Skills for Egyptology’ workshops at the Greek Campus. I’ve actually lost count of how many I’ve delivered now, but I know we’ve already reached well over 100 participants based on the quantity of feedback forms I’ve been processing alone. I must say, I’m pretty chuffed by that!

I’ve also had a few special experiences in my classes this week. Yesterday, for example, I was teaching a small group of museum professionals and postgraduate students from the University of Helwan. While teaching, I sensed they were a fairly reserved bunch and I couldn’t quite gauge whether or not I was meeting their expectations. I also became a little bit too aware of one participant who looked to be nodding off in her chair. But, I knew I was speaking with plenty of intonation (so it couldn’t have possibly been my voice driving her to sleep!). I also pace about a bit and like to put questions to the group. After the workshop finished, however, I couldn’t have been more pleasantly surprised by what she did. She literally came up to me with some of her friends and threw her arms around me - thanking me for my “excellent presentation”. She was so animated and effusive with praise, completely opposite to what I thought was running through her mind during my talk. (Lesson to self - for the thousandth time - never make assumptions about others). Then we chatted for a good 20 minutes, mostly about training aspiring, and current, museum professionals in Egypt and the types of opportunities they’re in need of. She was so full of beans, intelligent, passionate and visionary. In fact, we were so inspired by each other, we’re planning to meet up again after her exams in late February!

I also had a lovely group of museum curators and registrars from the Egyptian Museum tonight (some of whom are pictured above). They were so colourful and glamorous and listened intently throughout the entire presentation. Before starting in this post, I didn’t actually have a lot of teaching experience. I’ve worked extensively with communities, undertaken many years of serious research (both Egyptological and otherwise), delivered papers at conferences and gained endless professional experience as a museum curator, but had never actually turned my attention to teaching. God knows why!? It is immensely rewarding, especially when you can see things ‘click’ among your audience. And, I felt like we were having many ‘clicking’ moments tonight!

When did Cairo become so overrun by billboards? Maybe it’s always been, but driving out to Medinet Nasr yesterday - suddenly - it was all I could see! As if trying to focus on Cairo traffic isn’t enough, there you also find yourself battling the temptations of shiny, new cars, resort villas on the Red Sea or, in the case of my driver, a young, attractive Egyptian woman wearing a ball gown on a motorcycle eating Tiger crinkle cut potato chips. But, there was also one other distraction - the “flying Japanese baby” (as my driver called it) with oversized head suspended from the rear view mirror! It provided an interesting silhouette to my journey juxtaposed by the fast-paced Arabic beats blaring from the speakers (I might have been doing a bit of toe-tapping to this as well!). In fact, this could become another blog in itself! On the same day, for example, I travelled in another taxi which had the head of a mutilated kewpie doll perched on the dashboard. The doll’s eyes were permanently fixed into the back of its head and she had a large hole cut out of her right cheek. Really, there are no words for some of the things you find in Egyptian taxis! 

It’s been another busy week and I can’t believe that I’m already approaching the halfway point of my Fellowship. Over the past few days, I’ve delivered two further ‘Research Skills for Egyptology’ workshops at the Greek Campus in Downtown. The first of these, on Tuesday, was standing room only! I was told to expect 11 or 12 participants from Cairo University, but we ended up with almost 40 (in a room which has seating capacity for less than 25)! While I was delighted to see so much interest, I must admit it also came as a bit of a challenge. A substantial number of the participants arrived at various points during my talk and we had to do an extra emergency print-run of handouts. Phone calls have also been a recurrent issue, but like other competing sounds (such as drills outside the classroom window, the call to prayer and doors banging from next door), I’m getting better at learning how to deal with them! My Wednesday class (pictured above and below) was a much more manageable size and one of the most engaged thus far. I must say, it’s a very rewarding experience and such a pleasure to know you’re making a difference, no matter how small it may be. 

This week, Essam and I were also interviewed by Cairo Scene, an online Egyptian lifestyle, news and gossip magazine about the work of the EES and the ‘Research Skills for Egyptology’ workshops (I’ll let you know when it’s ready for viewing). I’m also trying to organise a one-day event tentatively titled ‘EES Professional Skills for Egyptology’, which I’m hoping will take place in early March. I’ll share more about this once the details become clearer. Essam and I are also planning for several further trips around the country where I’ll be delivering the research workshops - the next of which is planned for the Nubian Museum in Aswan at the end of the week (another pretty fabulous venue!). I’ve only been to Aswan once, and it wasn’t for particularly long, so I’m extremely excited about this!

Back to Cairo now and the ‘Research Skills for Egyptology’ workshops are well underway. Yesterday I had a small class of third year undergraduate students from Cairo University (pictured above) who are studying for their Egyptian history and archaeology degrees in English (as opposed to Arabic). They belong to less than 5% of the entire cohort of 4000 + students at undergraduate and postgraduate level pursuing their studies in English at the Faculty.  I’ll be teaching the Masters group tomorrow.

While the research workshops are running, I’m also busy preparing a museology lecture I’m due to deliver later this month to ICOM-Egypt, followed by students in the Museum Studies program at the University of Helwan (see draft flyer above). About two weeks ago I had the privilege to meet with Dr Ossama Abdel Meguid (museum consultant, lecturer and Vice President of ICOM-Arab) and Dr Mohamed Gamal (lecturer and curator at the Egyptian Museum in Cairo) about the current state of museums in Egypt. This was a fabulously insightful discussion for me and I was most interested to hear that two of the key areas they're seeking international assistance with, is: (1) museum branding, marketing and communication and, (2) ways of engaging children and family audiences. Although these aren’t directly related to my areas of expertise, I was certainly able to draw on a lot of relevant examples  from exhibitions I’ve worked on. They were also extremely fascinated to hear about the recent re-branding of the museum I work at (the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences in Sydney, Australia), as well as the Government’s proposal to relocate us from Sydney’s CBD to a satellite city about 25km west (you can read more about this here and here). Given all this, I’m now looking to present on ‘Museums in Australia: a behind-the-scenes insight into current issues and practices’, which I’m really looking forward to.

Last Wednesday, Essam and I had the pleasure to visit Dr Angus Graham, Director of the EES Theban Harbours and Waterscapes Survey project (in collaboration with Uppsala University and the Knut and Alice Wallenberg Foundation), and his team, on the West Bank of Luxor. Now in their fifth season, this important mission seeks to establish a geomorphological history of the Theban West Bank floodplain using geoarchaeological survey techniques, such as hand auguring (pictured above), percussion corer hand auguring and geophysical survey - including ERT (Electrical Resistivity Tomography) and GPR (Ground Penetrating Radar). Angus has already published some of the preliminary results of this work, which you can read more about in JEA 98, 99 and 100 and in EA 38 (here).

The first part of the morning was spent with Angus in the dig house, learning more about the treatment of the augured sediment samples. As opposed to usual archaeological excavations, which deal with 5 x 5 metre grid squares and stratigraphic layers revealing physical structures and/or objects, auguring in farmlands equates to a lot of compacted clay, mud, sand and other naturally occurring deposits. These sediments enable a picture of the changing nature of the floodplain to be produced. Every augur (which is around 7cm in diameter, up to 11m deep and producing samples at every 10cm under the ground) is therefore bagged, softened with water and then sieved using 2mm and 4mm screens to collect the different geological and human-made contents (as shown above). These contents add to the sedimentary data already recorded in the field to add further understanding to the geoarchaeological history of the floodplain. The sieving produces a range of stone clasts, which can include limestone, sandstone, granite etc., as well as other clasts, like rhizoconcretions and pottery sherds, which help to constrain the dates of the depositional events and the history of the floodplain. The auguring is taking place along a 3km traverse from the edge of the western desert to the banks of the river Nile at an approximate interval of every 200m, but this distance is reduced in complex sedimentary areas of the floodplain. The team average around 3 augurs per day.

ERT is used as a subsurface survey technique to complement the auguring information and provides import data to interpret the sediments between the auguring and as a check that no significant geomorphological features have been missed between the augur locations. You can see Dr Ginger Emery explaining how you collect and read the results of an ERT study to me above. 128 metal probes (placed 2m apart) are attached to what is effectively a car battery charger. Electrical currents are sent through the probes giving either high resistance or low resistance readings, depending on what deposits are actually present below ground.

You can read more about the team’s latest results from the 2015 season in JEA 101, coming out soon. 

For the past few days, Essam and I have been in Luxor visiting two archaeological missions and organising for the delivery of my first research skills in Egyptology workshop - which, I can now proudly say, took place in the Karnak Temple complex today (pictured below)! Alhamdulilah! Around 20 local inspectors, archaeologists and students gathered in the lecture hall of the American Research Center in Egypt (ARCE) conservation lab for a 2-hour workshop focused on what is research, the importance of sound research, researching step-by-step, structuring a thesis, the qualities of a good researcher, the nuances of Egyptological research and key online and hard copy reference tools every Egyptologist should know in order to succeed at an international level. 

I must admit, I was a little apprehensive beforehand. Although I have been trying to develop an understanding of where the existing gaps and weaknesses are in Egyptological training and research in Egypt, I am also aware that every audience is different and comes with their own individual knowledge base and set of experiences. I was also concerned about peoples’ level of English. Would they be able to follow me? Would they understand the value in what I’m saying? And, would they be able to practically apply what I’m teaching them to their own research practices?  Therefore, it’s not simply a matter of their English. It’s also my responsibility to deliver the content in a friendly and accessible format. That is, through the use of images, giving practical examples, encouraging conversation (a useful gauge to see if you and your audience are on the same page), while also ensuring to speak slowly, clearly and without any Aussie slang!

Today marks the 5th anniversary of the Egyptian Revolution. How quickly time passes. On this day 5 years ago I was about to board a plane for Cairo to lead my first tour group (you can read my full story here and here). It goes without saying that this was a particularly memorable time for me, so it’s a privilege to be here again 5 years on. But this time, there are many differences. The streets are considerably quieter (apart from a pocket of demonstrators in Tahrir Square - pictured above and below). There aren’t any tanks (except for the usual gathering outside the Egyptian Museum), the police have upheld a presence, but from my observations, just a peripheral one and it’s cold and wet. 

I also managed to maintain my distance much more this time! After assessing the situation from the balcony of one of my favourite shops (Oum el-Dounia), I walked the outskirts towards Sharia Mohamed Mahmoud where I met up with a friend before departing by taxi (the closest action I encountered all day can be seen above!). But, I’m not complaining. I was very pleased to see a sense of calm and hope this will mark the beginning of the gradual return of tourists to Egypt. Another world news piece that's likely to strike a similar chord is Nick Reeves’ hypothesis on the burial of Nefertiti. Imagine the wonders that could eventuate from this if he's right!

I’m permanently cold at the moment. The only places I seem to get any respite is the reception area of the British Council (which is about 15 degrees warmer than our office next door), Beano’s cafe in Zamalek (where I’m writing this from now) or the few moments before bed when my hot water bottle is still hot and the heater feels like heating. “Malesh”, as they say. I’m told it will warm up once February comes around, so I just have to ride it out until then.

It’s been a busy week. I’ve been in many interesting meetings with different people - from the Director of AUC Press to Egyptology lecturers at Cairo University (did you know there are 86 lecturers in the Department serving around 4000 undergraduate and postgraduate students?!), staff from the Egyptian Museum, the Vice President of ICOM-Arab and various Egyptological colleagues passing through Cairo en route to their respective fieldwork sites. For the most part, I’ve been using these meetings as a chance to ascertain more about the current state of Egyptological research in Egypt (both from the point of view of how research is taught and undertaken, as well as where people on the ground feel like there are particular gaps and weaknesses). This is helping to inform the workshops I’ll be delivering from next month (see a snapshot promo above), as well as – perhaps more importantly – the report I’m compiling which is intended to shape future directions in the foreign training of Egyptian Egyptologists and archaeologists in Egypt. 

I’m also pleased to say that Angus Graham’s fieldwork in Luxor was able to resume this week (thanks to some behind-the-scenes efforts by our Cairo Office Manager, Essam - pictured above). This means we will be visiting Angus on site next week! I’m also in the process of contacting various other fieldwork directors to arrange site visits for the EES’s inaugural familiarisation tour of Egypt for three British postgraduate students commencing in late March. I’ve been working on this itinerary in consultation with Chris and Essam for the past few weeks and hope to have it finalised shortly.

Next week marks the 5th anniversary of the Egyptian Revolution. It will be a public holiday here in Egypt and while everything seems calm in the lead up, the Government doesn’t seem to want to take any chances. Several missions in Middle Egypt and the western desert have been cancelled, while others are still awaiting their clearances to work. Sadly, this includes Dr Angus Graham’s Theban harbours and waterscapes project in Luxor (an EES mission). Angus and his team have been in Luxor poised to start work for the past week. Since having received word that no clearances will be issued until post-January 25, however, and their team had planned for a short season anyway, they’ve decided to ‘abandon ship’. I fear other missions may soon be forced to do the same.

On a brighter note, today I had the chance to meet ten young Egyptian museum curators, inspectors and Ministry office employees who are about to embark on an intensive 6-month English language programme courtesy of the EES and British Council Egypt (pictured above). They came into the office for an induction session facilitated by Essam before undergoing a language placement exam. Although I’m ashamed to say it, after I tried to introduce myself in Arabic to the group, I came to the fast realisation that their English proficiency is still better than my spoken Arabic - even before they’ve commenced the course! I’m just hoping I’m yet to be told that the course is designed for only very advanced English speaking students!

As the working week in Egypt starts on a Sunday (Friday and Saturday is the weekend), I’ve also just enjoyed two days off. Although part of this was spent behind my computer, I did revel in some R&R with two very good friends - Cairo style. This involved brunch at Left Bank in Zamalek, some window shopping, a failed visit to the Agricultural Museum in Dokki (it closes at 1pm! I know, go figure!), followed by an excursion to Al-Azhar Park - perhaps one of only two ‘clean green’ spaces in the whole of Cairo (pictured above). 

Yesterday was the Feast of the Archaeologists - an annual celebration of Egyptian accomplishments in archaeology founded by Dr Zahi Hawass in 2006. The day was characterised by free attendance to all archaeological sites and museums, the launch of a special exhibition ‘Repatriated Objects’ at the Cairo Museum and an awards evening and musical performance at the Cairo Opera House (pictured above). We managed to fit in all three. 

I’d always wanted to attend an exhibition opening in Egypt and my experience didn’t fall short of eye-opening. It was a “media scrum”, as one of my colleagues put it, with journalists and photographers clambering to get a good story/photo out of the godfather himself, Dr Mamdouh El-Damaty (Minister of Antiquities). After some formal speeches, the crowd literally spilled into the exhibition space. You looked at whatever showcase you were thrust towards - keeping one eye peeled for an escape point to the next part of the display. A highlight object for me was a fragment of the ‘dog stele’ of Wahankh Intef II (CG 20514) which had been returned from Germany. I also had the chance to talk with staff from the Ministry’s Repatriation Department to hear some of the behind-the-scenes stories of their work. 

In between official proceedings, Essam and I managed to squeeze in a visit to the Greek campus in Downtown to inspect potential lecture theatres for our proposed talks and workshops. This place has a fabulous vibe. The leafy grounds are enhanced by playful public sculptures (including the climbing Pharaohs in the picture above), outdoor cafes and trendy young Egyptians. Essentially, the campus has become the hub for a number of creative startup companies, including Cairoscene - a hip online magazine that I discovered shortly before leaving Sydney - and therefore has that ‘anything is possible’ kind-of-feel. 

Cairo now and this is where the real fellowship fun begins! Today I commenced work at the EES office located in the British Council at Agouza with Fieldwork and Engagement Manager, Essam Nagy (pictured above). Essam is a former Inspector at Karnak and archaeologist with many connections. He’s across all the current archaeological missions working in Egypt and, without a doubt, also has at least one good friend tucked away on each of these missions too! Speaking of which, Dr Angus Graham, Director of the EES Theban harbours and waterscapes project (pictured below left) came by the office today to borrow some fieldwork equipment and have a good old chin-wag before his team starts work tomorrow. Essam and I will be heading down to Luxor to visit Angus’s project in the coming weeks - photos of which will certainly be posted here.

Apart from starting work, I’ve also found time to secure a place to live for the next 3 months. Thanks to some dear friends, this has been a most enjoyable experience without any of the hassles I was expecting. I’m living in a very plush apartment - with more living rooms and sofas than you can count on one hand - about 5 minutes walking distance from the British Council. It also has Nile views (well, if you dare open the shutters and pass your head through all the electrical cables hanging from the apartment above!) and other frequent quirks (such as light switches that never turn off and doors that you are told to keep permanently locked)! I’ve been offered a maid to cook and clean up after me (it’s a little bit tempting, but let’s see how long I can resist) and the boab (doorman) downstairs is also very friendly and keen to run small errands, as well as collect the garbage. To be honest, I’m a bit afraid of getting used to this lifestyle. There’s certainly no way I’d ever be able to sustain it back in Sydney, not to mention the fact it will probably make me even less domesticated than what I already am!

For my last day in London, I managed to pack in two of my favourite things - the Egyptian collection at the British Museum and some shopping! There are currently two special (i.e. temporary) Egyptian exhibitions on show at the BM - ‘Egypt: faith after the pharaohs’ and ‘Scanning Sobek’ - both of which I strongly recommend. ‘Faith after the pharaohs’ was particularly well-curated, taking visitors on a chronological journey of the major turning points in religious beliefs from the Romanisation of the Egyptian pantheon of gods in the time of Augustus through to present day Islam. There is an outstanding selection of objects on show, clear themes and plenty of information (but not too much). My only gripe would be the exhibition design. The rooms were poky and unaccommodating of large crowds (although I get the impression that’s the nature of that space for any exhibition - it’s located upstairs in the Great Court). There didn’t seem to be any crowd control either. The exhibition shop was most amusing. One modestly sized appliqué from the Tentmakers Market in Cairo was marked up at 550GBP (I just wonder how much of that goes back to the makers). I also recognised a number of lovely textile pieces from Oum el-Dounia, and other ephemera from the Khan, which was astronomically overpriced. In fact, it probably turns out cheaper if you fly to Cairo for them (you can also shop for cheaper online)!

I was also thrilled to see a ‘new’ display (well, it wasn’t there on my last visit in April 2014) of two very significant First Intermediate Period stelae in the BM Sculpture Gallery - both of which are key pieces in my PhD research. Back in 2009, I undertook a study of the representation of First Intermediate Period history and collections in UK museums (see here). At that time, the British Museum didn’t communicate a particularly clear or consistent view of this period (they were not alone), so was equally delighted to find a new dedicated theme panel (even if it was somewhat dramatised and the curator(s) were never aware of my work!). 

This week I’ve been working at the EES London office (pictured above) in preparation for my time in Cairo. I’ve been making the daily 1 hour commute from Meldreth Station to London King’s Cross (via Platform 9 3/4 - this will only make sense to the Harry Potter fans among you!), rugged up in my winter woolies and rain gear (I guess I wouldn’t be in Britain if it was any other way!).

The main purpose of my time in London has been to strategise my role with the EES Director, Dr Chris Naunton, and other members of the team before Cairo. As I will essentially be on the ground in Egypt offering a new range of practical skills in Egyptological research, grant writing, public presentations and museology etc. to Egyptian Egyptologists and archaeologists, we have been working closely together to identify our target audiences, best approaches to delivery and engagement and a potential schedule for the next 3 months. Upon arriving in Cairo, it is expected that I will spend the first fortnight or so orienting myself with the Egyptian Egyptology scene in the country before a soft launch of the workshops where I intend to trial some small, regular meet-ups around core research skills for Egyptology focused specifically on individual students’ needs. I expect this to evolve based on demand and as I get a better handle on everything.

I’ve also been spending a significant amount of time preparing the content for these workshops and revisiting and questioning my own research practice and output. There are some skills, such as abstract writing or public speaking, which tend to come naturally, particularly if you’ve been doing it for many years. But, to teach these types of skills to someone else, you do need to stop and reflect on your own work (and that of others) in order to breakdown the components - some of which can be seemingly small and insignificant, yet have an immeasurable impact on the outcome. As a result, I’ve been brainstorming with colleagues about various ideas for delivery and engagement. Fortunately, there is also the opportunity for me to draw on other scholars who will be in Cairo at the time, so they too can share their personal insights and expertise.

Work aside, I’ve been immersed in aspects of Whaddon village life this week and it’s been absolutely delightful! From table tennis in the local village hall to wine tasting at our neighbour’s house, it’s certainly a world away from my sky rise apartment in North Sydney and, of course, pending time in Cairo!