Former Maiko Umesana is now Maiko Fujichiyo from new okiya Fuji
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Former Maiko Umesana is now Maiko Fujichiyo from new okiya Fuji
(SOURCE)

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A Surprise In Pontocho!
May 28th, 2021: A new maiko has made her debut in Pontocho! Her name is Momihiro (もみ紘) and she is from the Katsumi (勝見) okiya! Her onesan is Momifuku (もみ福) of Yamaguchi. Her debut was quite a surprise as the karyukai has been quiet due to the corona virus and its overwhelmingly negative effects. Images of her debut can be found here ^^
Upcoming Geisha debut in Yokohama: on 26. June 2021, "Kaden" will have her debut. Is she the same as Tamaki, who has been a Geisha Minarai for quite some time now? At the first glance, their faces look too different from each other. Source: Yokohamageigi on insta
Karyukai news, March/April 21
At the end of February/early March, the following Geisha from Tokyo-Shinbashi retired: - Tamaki たまき (debuted 2016) - Yui ゆい (debuted 2018) - Eitarô 栄太郎 (first seen Azuma Odori 2007) - Hiroko 博子 (first seen Azuma Odori 2009) Niigata saw a once retired Furisode-san return: - Fumika ふみ嘉 (previously debuted in 2018 and retired in 2019)
The Look Of...
Tokyo: Shinbashi
Historical Context
Kyoto’s legendary Gokagai have become the gold standard for Geisha culture and specially Gion Kobu is the stronghold for the Karyukai. Every girl wishing to step into this world would dream of debuting in Gion Kobu even though it is well known for its rigid and demanding levels of education and training. But Kyoto is by far the only place for Geisha in Japan, we all know this. The other legendary place to meet Geisha is Tokyo. Now, if Kyoto has Gion Kobu, Tokyo has Shinbashi. Absolutely comparable in terms of quality, the truth of the matter is that Kyoto and Tokyo have become two very different cities, almost inconceivable to compare them in any way. And as is with the cities flair, the same is to be said when comparing the two set of Geisha.
Home to around 40 to 50, up to 60, Tachikata, Jikata Geisha and even Hangyoku, this hanamachi is very colorful in its flavor but if one would have to pick one description fit for Shinabshi it would be “exclusive”. Due to its prime location near Ginza, an internationally famous shopping area, nestled in the Minato ward also specked with white collar businesses, the Geisha of the area have become synonymous with luxurious entertainment of the highest grade. Also, many government buildings in the vicinity have provided a steady stream of important and influential patrons making it impossible to meet Shinbashi Geisha without introduction, just like in Kyoto. This image has stuck throughout Shinbashi’s upward rise after the second world war and during the economic boom. It is said that the districts Geisha are just as cunning, ruthless and powerful as their clientele. One would say this willowy strength is formed by dedication and commitment to the arts. As for the Shinbashi Geisha style, it is one of unique elegance not comparable with Mukojima’s playfulness or Asakusa’s flamboyance. Because the Shinbashi Geisha cater to the wealthy and powerful, they have become their mirror image.
Source: Headtopics.com
The Look Of Shinbashi Hangyoku
Term used for apprentice: Hangyoku
Hairstyle: Momoware Nihongami or Momoware katsura, no other hairstyles documented in recent years
Kanzashi: Kyoto-style set up with katsuyama and shidare hanakanzashi for juniors, ksuhi with daikan for seniors
Make-up: oshiroi, juniors only paint bottom lip and then transition to more senior look with both lips painted
Kimono: Furisode with tucks
Eri: Red, white and multicolored, not according to seniority
Obi: Yanoji musubi
Obiage: Red and finely patterned, untied
Obijime: Multicolored and tied, no pocchiri
Footwear: Zori
Source: Ludmila Vitouchkina on Flickr
Source: Shinbashi Enbujo
Source: Okiya Mura On Flickr
Source: 4generationscooking on Wordpress
Source: Fujingaho
The Look Of Shinbashi Geisha
Term used for professional: Geisha (Shinbashi Geisha can be categorized visually into Shinbana/Newly debuted Geisha, more senior Geisha and Otoko/Male Geisha)
Hairstyle: Katsura in Geisha Shimada or Gakuya Icho for male roles. Yohatsu for very senior Geisha and Jikata
Kanzashi: Shinbana wear tortoiseshell kanzashi during their debut and for some time after. When more advanced it is traditional in Tokyo to wear a bekko hirauchi through the maegami.
Make-up: Oshiroi except for seniors and Jikata
Kimono: Hikizuri for more established Geisha. Houmongi for Shinbana (pastel colours, specially light blue) as well as more senior Geisha, Jikata and Otoko Geisha (dark blue mainly)
Eri: Usually white but come in many colors. Omitted in summer
Obi: Taiko and Tsunodashi for All Geisha, Yanoji musubi for Otoko, Yanagi musubi for kuromontsuki
Obiage: Tied, red or white for all occasions. Untied for male roles
Obijime: Simple knot, one color
Footwear: Zori or geta
Source: Route 207
Source: Sankei News
Source: Kisaragimami on Ameblo
Source: Shinbashi Enbujo
Source: Yuki da! on Flickr
Source: Rekishi No Tabi on Flickr
Source: Shinbashi Enbujo
Local Noteworthiness
- Shinbashi is a district largely made up of high rises and daily life is lived accordingly in these buildings which can contain a whole little village life. Compared to the cute cobbled alleys of Kagurazaka or the small town flair of Hachioji, Shinbashi is very anonymous and truly the embodiment of the big city. Due to this feature, Geisha are rarely seen on the streets in full attire and public viewing is mainly reduced to the Ginza Yanagi festival, the Azuma odori and the Tozai odori and the accompanying tea ceremonies.
Also accordingly, it is nearly impossible to stop a Geisha in her tracks on the streets to ask for photos, for example and they work in a very secluded manner: Their training at the Shinbashi Kaikan is closed to the public and they even have their own Shinto Shrine on the roof of the building within easy reach.
- Shinbashi is one of the few hanamachi in Tokyo to regularly teach Hangyoku in the arts. The training is very strict and demanding and their look of typical Tokyo sophistication. In this the Shibashi Hangyoku resemble the Kagurazaka Hangyoku look: Kyoto on top, Tokyo on the bottom.

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“The geisha Ichimaru. Born Matsue Goto, she became a maiko at 16, then signed a contract with Victor Recording Company in 1931. She became a huge hit and was known as the “Queen of kouta” (traditional songs). She retired from being a geisha in the mid-30s to focus on her singing.“ Text by Matthew Legare
Ichimaru originally was an Oshaku in Asama Onsen (Matsumoto, Nagano). At the age of 19, she moved to Tokyo and became a Geisha at Ichimatsu-ya in Asakusa (Debut 18. Jun. 1926). She retired from being a Geisha on 31. Dec. 1935. She continued to record songs until 1985 and appeared in TV until 1995. Ichimaru died in 1997 at the age of 90. (Src. ja.wikipedia.org article on Ichimaru)
Geiko Hinayu (Okatome okiya), Maiko Fukuna (Kawayoshi Okiya) and Geiko Umehina in December 2020
(SOURCE)
November 19th, 2020: Congratulations to Kyoto’s newest geiko! Fukutama (ふく珠) of Shigemori (しげ森) in Miyagawa Cho has finally turned her collar! She had been the most senior maiko in her district for over a year and the most senior maiko in all of Kyoto for almost as long! Her apprenticeship lasted just over 6 years, so she has definitely done her time to ensure that she was the best maiko that she could be. Now that she’s a geiko she’ll continue to shine and hopefully be as popular, if not more, than she was as a maiko ^^! おめでとうさんどすふく珠さん ^o^! Images are courtesy of My Kyoto Photo.
November 16th, 2020: Congratulations to Kyoto’s two newest debuts! From Gion Kobu we have jikata geiko Masune (ます音)! She is from Nakagishi (中支志) and her onesan is Masuho (ます穂)! From Miyagawa Cho we have maiko Kikusora (菊そら)! She is from Minatoya (湊家) and her onesan is Kikuyae (菊弥江)! Both girls have onesan from different okiya, which isn’t uncommon in such tight knit communities ^^ おめでとうさんどすます音さんと菊そらちゃん ^o^! Images are courtesy of Momoyamaya and My Kyoto Photo [1] [2].
Furumachi geigi (Old Town geisha) of Niigata playing cards. 1920s, Japan. Text and image via Blue Ruin 1 on Flickr

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The Tayuu And Their Art
We have come to know the image of the legendary Shimabara Tayuu relatively well over the last decades. Many mysterious traditions have been uncovered and a lot of information has been collected on modern Tayuu, the few ones that keep this unique legacy alive, and the historic Tayuu, the iconic artists that have left a deep impression on the flower and willow world.
This image is that of a stoic and regal lady, clad in precious robes, usually without a hint of emotion, everything she does is celebrated in solemn and royal silence and the slowest motions.
They are this archaic species, like looking at an ancient artefact, their whole existence makes a mockery of day to day life. And this image is one created not only by the people so affected by the Tayuu of yesteryear, we still have some photographs and postcards mirroring the last of the historic Tayuu, beacons of a different age.
At the dawn of photography in Japan, many Tayuu became popular models for this new medium. Rightly so with their outlandish and awe inspiring appearance and their rare status, they were considered a perfect choice to represent the exotic mysticism of the land of the rising sun, specially so to the potographers documenting the unknown and seclusive culture of Nippon to the courtly audience in Europe.
But early photography also had its limits, specially in translation of tradition. Models needed to hold still for long periods of time to create a crisp image and here too the composed and self controlled Tayuu made for excellent motifs and great models but it also reduced them to lifeless dolls, like the ningyo that became popular as part of the Japanoiserie movement of the time and again and again with progression of history outside of its native land.
Most pictures depict the Tayuu in full regalia with their entourage, standing around somewhere looking indifferent, unaffected and sometimes bored. Never would one imagine these girls to be the prophets of asobi entertainment and the muses for authors and painters, men of great stature.
But exactly this is what we have come to know of the historic Tayuu: They were considered great beauties, inside and out. Hand picked to be educated by other legendary Tayuu to become the ideal companions for the movers and shakers of their time. Since the procedure of scouting and grooming of Tayuu have been topic on this blog before, we will not be going too deep this time, but we do need to look into their artistic training to answer the question raised this time:
Did the Tayuu create Art?
They did. If classical dance is considered art, and professional singing is considered art, and musical accomplishment is considered art, then Tayuu can safely be considered artists.
But we don’t have records of this art because this was part of the fleeting beauty of the Karyukai in the days before modern acoustic and moving visual recording. But even if there were a way to examine the art of the Tayuu in retrospect, we would find ourselves empty handed. Instead of creating long lasting artefacts, the greatest Tayuu were the luminaries of creating stellar moments of pleasure and joy. They designed the settings for art to be created, they were the muses, the inspiration for many intelligent minds to produce art around the Tayuu.
Many accounts, including my own, describe the Tayuu actual work as offering her services as a one of a kind walking and breathing work of art instead of being the artist themselves. This because there is quite the evidence that Tayuu didn’t actually do anything at ozashiki or during their outings with a patron. So many Ukiyo-e depict the highest ranking Courtesans simply sitting around, looking ornamental, maybe, if ever, reading or writing a letter but never so with actual patrons present. When we see prints and paintings of ozashiki and parties, there are many people involved, seldom is the Tayuu the actual source of entertainment, rather she contributed by selecting and curating her favorite Bando Shinzo, her associated Taikomochi, her Kamuro and many other performances to enhance the gathering. In this sense one could compare the Tayuu to a curator of an Art museum or a Fashion editor: She defined the style and preference in entertainment for her patrons who trusted her sense of aesthetic and her intelligent input.
“Sakura Viewing Banquet” By Utagawa Toyohiro
There is hardly any art that depicts the Tayuu in a creative process exceptions being her playing the Koto, writing or reading and during the tea ceremony (which goes more into the practice of Zen to further her knowledge and wisdom). One notable artistic endeavor absolutely fitting for a great Tayuu and well documented is the art of Ikebana. Quite a few illustrations and even some old photos show the Courtesan before a flower arrangement, the later always paling in comparison with the outstanding beauty of the Tayuu, of course. The Flowers are meant to enhance the fragile beauty of the girl at hand specially since her lifespan was extremely limited being a part of the flower and willow world.
And even in performative artforms like Kabuki and their stories, the Tayuu are most oftentimes invited guests of a party or they themselves host gatherings like moon viewing sessions in their favorite ageya for their patrons. But they don’t pour sake, they don’t play instruments and they don’t sing or dance. Maybe this image is not as black and white as we make it out to be, maybe some of them would perform for the guests, but why would they with specialized entertainers present and handsomely payed for? I find it revealing that there are hardly any visual media depicting a great Tayuu actually performing arts compared to the many Ukiyo-e, paintings and drawings showing Geisha with Shamisen, a trait that became their hallmark.
And let’s talk about the Tayuu as a motif for art for a moment.
For anyone asking why these extraordinary women, past and present, made for great motifs, well the explanation can be reduced to some key words: Exotic, mystic, exclusive. Their appearance was, as is, something only a life of intense luxury could conceive. Ultimately it was their exclusive nature that made them interesting topics for art, the hero needed a worthy counterpart for his infatuations and a peasant oftentimes did not do. Since a simple girl from modest background usually had nothing or close to nothing to loose by running away with her lover, essentially defying all odds for love, for a queenly Tayuu much more was at stake: If a popular girl of the pleasure quarters wasn’t working, no matter her rank, she was effectively losing money by the minute. So needless to say this friction and the high stakes made for excellent drama. Something the Edo people longed for as part of the trends of the time.
So now we have established some key data on the Tayuu’s influence on the arts: She did not create art but curated it. One important Tayuu, with her connections, her knowledge and the wealth of her patrons could make or break the artists around her, the poets, the painters and designers in the pleasure quarters, all dependent on her approval to keep afloat in an industry of Edo pleasure and luxury. But a Tayuu could only influence the tastes of those around her by being the most prolific in the arts, by being the most knowledgeable, by being the most talented and beautiful. No daimyo would have taken the advice of a lowly girl with no training in her field so the Tayuu, trained from early childhood and having developed a keen eye for the indulgences of her regal patrons, knew exactly how to deal with these unique men.
In the end this all bubbles down to the one of a kind dynamic in a rare bubble in time: The wealth of men created these alien beings for their entertainment, these creations catalyzed a whole plane of aesthetic and artistic sesibility which in turn kept a whole industry oiled up and going for the profit of men, who essentially ran things.
Did Tayuu create art? Maybe not in the literal sense but they needed to be the best in their field, like a maestro of an orchestra needs to understand every instrument to create a perfect symphony, the Tayuu understood every aspect of the Karyukai to create perfect ozashiki for art to be created. In this sense, yes they created art and were the most influential of all artist.
Sources: Noel43 On Flickr / Noel43 On Flickr / Noel43 On Flickr / Noel43 On Flickr /
October 31st, 2020: Meet Miyagawa Cho’s newest minarai! Fumitsuru (富美鶴) is the imōto of natori geiko Fumiyū (富美祐) and hails from the Toshikimi (利きみ) okiya! She’s already shaping up to be a graceful dancer, so her career looks to be bright! Look out for her misedashi happening sometime in December ^^ Images are exclusives shared by My Kyoto Photo, so you saw them here first!
November 4th, 2020: Fukutama (ふく珠) of Shigemori (しげ森) in Miyagawa Cho has switched to the sakkō hairstyle! Her outfit features a kuromontsuki with paper butterflies and a matching gold obi with pine motifs. Her kanzashi is a large black tailed crane flying over gold and green pine. Her erikae will take place on November 19th ^^ Images are courtesy of Shiba Yukihime.
Elegant Geiko Umehina
(SOURCE)
October 19th, 2020: Congratulations to Kyoto’s two newest geiko on the occasion of their erikae! From Gion Kobu there’s Mitsuki (美月) of Tsurui (つる居) and in Pontocho there’s Ichiyū (市結) of Katsumi (勝見)! Mitsuki is currently the #1 overall highest earning geimaiko in her district and is the imōto of the famous Satsuki. Ichiyū has also been incredibly successful and is the imōto of the well respected and highly esteemed Ichiraku. Both women have extremely bright futures ahead of them in the karyukai as geiko ^^! おめでとうさんどす美月さんと市結さん ^o^! Images are courtesy of My Kyoto Photo [1] [2].

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The Look Of
Tokyo: Asakusa
Historical Context
One of the biggest Geisha districts of Tokyo is Asakusa nearby Sensoji Temple and Kannonura street, one of Japans most visited sites. The hanamachi of Asakusa has managed to not only survive while others didn’t, it prospers and has remained important even after the economic bubble burst. Compared to the other districts of Tokyo though, Asakusa has the flair of new money. While politicians and old nobility have patronized the old and prestigious districts of Shinbashi and Akasaka, young businessmen and new wealth found its way into Asakusa, a place more true to the Edo Geisha traditions of catering to merchants. So naturally, this laid back attitude has worked itself into the appearance of the districts artists.
Asakusa Geisha’s style is considered specially iki. They love the willowy motifs of bamboo, stripes, net patterns in summer, they love their greys, browns and blues. Because Asakusa has been one of the few Tokyo districts to continuously nurture Hangyoku until today, it is up to these apprentices and the Shinbana, the new flowers to sport flashy and flowery motifs while the actual Geisha opt for elegance in the most austere sense. Contrast to their Akasaka counterparts for example, there you will find big and bold flowery motifs on Kuromonstuki and generally more feminine character in style, not so in Asakusa where geometric patterns rule. Let’s dive into this district, one that is open to modern influences while keeping the highest of standards.
Source: Danaorientalnail on Instagram
The Look Of Asakusa Hangyoku
Source: Takaya on Twitter
Source: Takaya_1974 on Instagram
Source: Asakusa Chihana on Instagram
Term Used For Apprentices: Hangyoku
Hairstyle: Katsura in Momoware
Kanzashi: Seasonal with shidare on daikan, the daikan can be worn in front Kyoto-style but oftentimes the placement of all Kanzashi is up to personal preference. Katsuyama-bridge for juniors, then a switch to elaborate kushi. Chinkoro in red or pink, sometimes omitted. Red kanoko for juniors, pink kanoko for seniors.
Make-up: Light pink eye shadow, both lips painted from start
Kimono: Furisode worn short. Traditional motifs but very bold and colorful Tokyo-style: Classic and bright flowery patterns, seasonal
Eri: White, bright red, patterned in red and white
Obi: Kouken musubi
Obiage: Untucked in various red hues but also white with red patterns
Obijime: Slim ones without obidome, wider ones with obidome
Footwear: Okobo
Source: Toshiha_DrowElfMorwen on Flickr
Source: Shinya on Flickr
Source: AdrienG on Flickr
The Look Of Asakusa Geisha
Source: Asakusa Kenban
Source: Shinya on Flickr
Term Used For Professional: Geisha
Hairstyle: Katsura in Taka Shimada or Yohatsu for seniors
Make-up: Classic Geisha Oshiroi
Kimono: Junior Geisha wear their kimono short, oftentimes Komon, and switch to Hikizuri with some years experience. Otoko styles are reserved for experienced Geisha who specialize in that role
Eri: White Eri. Can be ommited in the heat of the Summer months
Obi: Tsunodashi musubi, Yanagi musubi and Taiko musubi
Footwear: Zori and geta
Source: Kiks Balayon on Flickr
Source: Dramaticdining on Instagram
Source: Hachiko Matsunoya on Instagram
Local Noteworthiness
- The dance schools followed are the Fujima and the Hanayagi
- Asakusa features a unique compromise in their working style with the services of not one but two Furisode troupes, formations of young girls who practice some traditional arts specializing in dance. The Groups are called “Hana Furisode” and “Furisode Girls” who entertain at concerts and tourist attractions but don’t live the rigid lifestyle of Geisha. They operate without a kenban and are to be evaluated like a dance group anyone can book without patronizing a whole community. Furisode dress in the traditional Hangyoku attire (Here you can read up on the visual differences between real Hangyoku and Furisode).
- Taikomochi are a form of entertainers that specialize in traditional forms of storytelling and comedy, dances and musical accompaniment. There are around 5 active Taikomochi in Asakusa, not only a big number compared to other kagai but some of them are still young while others have been active for many decades. Their services are considered very exclusive and oftentimes booked alongside the Geisha to round off the experience. They usually dress in Kimono and Haori, seldom Hakama as to stay versatile in the delivery of female and male characters while storytelling, they do wear some slim pants underneath though. But unlike the Gifu Houkan, the Asakusa Taikomochi exist in their own class. They do not intersect with Geisha as their official oniisan but still cultivate a strong collegial bond.
Source: Asakusa Chihana on Instagram
New Beginnings
While reports of struggling Geisha around Japan reach the mainstream media, there are still some sparks of hope and a vision of normalcy: Enter Fumiyo, a debutante Geiko Minarai of Susukino, Sapporo.
Congratulations to her and her little kagai! I wish her much success as she has already displayed a lot of dedication and courage by taking her first steps in the karyukai.
Source: Sapporo Kotoyo on Instagram