Remote Year

2/13

The last time I went to Paris I didn’t make it to the Château de Versailles so I was lucky my mom decided to join me even though she has been there before! <3 We took the train to the palace and spent a few hours exploring. The garden was not in season unfortunately, otherwise we could’ve spent the whole day frolicking through the acres of roses and landscapes. Still impressive in any season.

It’s hard for me to imagine the days that Versailles housed King Louis– the absolute gluttony and pomp & circumstance of the palace used purely as a showcase of his riches as people around him suffered. Sounds familiar, actually... The extreme extravegence of every room is really quite silly when you think about its purpose– especially the Hall of Mirrors, perhaps the world’s most over-the-top incubator of vanity. Beautiful for sure, if you’re into gaudiness. 

We returned to the city and met up with my dad on the steps of the Sacré Cœur then walked around one of my favorite neighborhoods in Paris: Montmarte. 

I thought it would be fun to get the haircut I needed so desperately while in Paris, so we were seeking out salons all day. We passed Alvarez near Moulin Rouge and I decided to go for it. My stylist was adorable, she’s Japanese and was the only one who spoke English (still very little). We had fun speaking broken English/French/Japanese together and she gave me a gorgeous (she said there’s no French word for “gorgeous” so she likes saying it in English) new ‘do!

My stylist recommended a nearby restaurant for authentic French cuisine and ambiance. Dinner at Le Bon Bock was wonderful!

After dinner we hopped on the metro back to the hotel. It was jam packed and my mom reminded me to move my backpack to my frontside. She has intuition... We stood on the train squished together like sardines, my dad and I near the door with arms up holding on. Near the first stop I noticed two men touching my dad– one shaking his ankle and one unzipping his jacket. I immediately knew they were trying to rob him, so I yelled “Dad they’re pickpocketing you!” just as the train rolled to a halt. The three of them jumped off in a flurry of shouts, the men pretending that he was stepping on their ticket. I pulled my dad back on the train as the two thieves remained on the platform as to not draw attention to their unsuccessful crime. It was all a blur, happened so fast, but we are so lucky nothing was stolen and no one was hurt. 

2/14

My parents had a layover in Paris after their trip to Portugal (one month too early guys!!!) so I hopped on a short plane ride from Marrakech to meet them! We only had two full days but we sure made the most of it. I was soooo excited to see them, it was my re-set, a breath of fresh air in the midst of this crazy journey! I love you mom + dad!

I had been to Paris once before (on Valentine’s Day actually!) so I let them lead, and we sure covered the city. It was so romantic, I was third wheeling it missing Russell as all the cute couples went out on the town for Valentines dates. Sigh.

Notre Dame. Did you know it took 200 years to build?

Shakespeare & Company bookstore. I bought Le Petit Prince :) 

Endless cute cafes

Mom found Knoll, where she used to work!

The Louvre

Invalides neighborhood

My Valentines Day date in Russell’s absence.

Some tower

The Seine

Fun Vday dinner at this cute local pub, Le Mesturet. Great experience with friendly locals!

2/13

At home, Starbucks is second nature to me; it’s everywhere. My daily dose. Abroad, it’s still generally easy to find in most major cities. But in some places where the coffee mogul isn’t as prominent it’s an exciting find. In Marrakech there is only one Starbucks in the city. Generally while traveling I like to experience the local coffee culture, but the city and our workspace did not provide the strength I needed in my cup o’ Joe (I know I know, Seattle coffee snob). So I trekked to the sole Marrakech Starbucks often. 

At the Marrakech airport on my way to Paris I saw the green circle, which has become a beacon of hope for me when I’m far from home and craving something familiar (this is my favorite thing about the Starbucks brand experience– comfort and consistency wherever you are in the world). I followed that mermaid as if she were the light. As the barista poured my Pike Place roast, I told him I live blocks away from the original Starbucks in Pike Place Market. He got so excited, much more so than I expected, and gleefully translated what I said to his coworkers. He wrote my name on the cup in Arabic and asked if I had time for a coffee tasting– I’ll never say no to free coffee!

The barista, named Anas, came to my table with a tray of coffee beans, a French press, tasting notes and cups. He told me he’s studying to become a coffee master and needs to practice a coffee tasting with a customer. He said I was the perfect subject because of how much I know about Starbucks, so I felt honored that I was the chosen one to be this coffee-master-in-training’s first student! Anas handed me a barista tasting booklet and went through the tasting: proper way to brew, how to taste the coffee, tasting notes. When he asked me what I taste, I said “home” and he cracked up saying that was the best response he’s ever heard (Moroccans think certain things are hilarious in ways we wouldn’t– I love experiencing different senses of humor across cultures). At the end he asked me to rate his tasting and of course I gave him an A+ ! His coworker took pictures of us that he can use for his coffee master portfolio. I’m rooting for you Anas, keep up that passion!

This was one of those unexpected interactions that turned getting a coffee into a full blown tasting and genuine conversation. Connecting with people is all about finding common ground, no matter how different you are or what languages you speak natively– here we shared our love for good coffee. And truthfully, I feel like Anas had more passion for Starbucks than some baristas in my hometown do. His enthusiasm for coffee and excitement about my proximity to his employer’s headquarters were truly refreshing when going to Starbucks can seem so routine. Thank you Anas for sharing your knowledge with me and picking me as your first customer for a tasting!

2/12

Went to Riad BE for a spa day with my lovely friend Anne!

It’s always an adventure finding your destination in the medina. I stumbled upon a wonderful art gallery pop-up along the way, where I bought a few small pieces and custom Arabic calligraphy from the artist’s daughter!

Google maps can only take you so far into the depths of the medina. I was actually very surprised with how well it navigated me inside the walls, but it seemed I could never find my riad without getting lost at the end, always coming so close. As I neared Riad BE my only indicators of its presence were these little arrows, which I assumed were pointing me in the right direction, but who could really know what they indicated?

Marrakech’s kids are smart. Their hustle is to hang around these narrow areas where riads are and find lost tourists, show them to where they’re going (they always know) and beg for money. This happened to me as I was so close but clearly lost, and I tried to pretend I knew where I was going as the kid pointed me towards “Riad Be! Riad Be!” Yes, the kid definitely helped me, but they don’t make it very easy for foreigners to find. They must do this for pure entertainment.

I was delighted to see Medhi, our storyteller from Mom’s dinner, when he answered the door! It all makes sense now-- Sara, our city team manager, signed me up for this spa day-- they all work together. We chatted and he welcomed me in, and when my jaw-dropped awe distracted from the ability to converse he left me alone in my newfound paradise. Riad BE is everything you want in a riad, in an instagram photo, in a Moroccan space. An indoor oasis.

Anne arrived and we had tea in complete tranquility. Mehdi escorted us to where our hammam and massages would take place on the newer side of the riad, where a photo shoot was taking place!

We changed into robes and entered a small room completely made of stone with two benches and a faucet in the middle. Hammam is a traditional Moroccan bath where you strip down naked and get scrubbed with an exfoliating glove. This was my first and only hammam, it was quite the experience! I was glad I had Anne there to laugh with at the strangeness of it all, but it did feel good and we felt like newly bathed babies afterwards. I then had the best massage of my life, seriously it was wondrous, then relaxed with mint tea and wandered the rest of the riad while Anne had her massage. 

We left relaxed, rejuvenated, and with a post-hammam glow! Shoukran Riad BE and your incredible self-care ladies!

2/12

Born and raised in the medina, Taha and Sara know this labyrinth like the back of their hand. Even though they grew up here I still have a hard time imagining what it’s like to know your way around without Google maps. 

They told us up front that all the places they’re taking us will offer the best prices, no negotiation necessary. Sara firmly told us that you’re not the only one getting ripped off; you’re ripping them off sometimes. “If they see you just want a fair price they’ll give you a fair price,” she said. She is always defensive of her culture, which is respectable. Her perspective is important for us to have because the things we find odd or off-putting about Moroccan culture she stands by. Taha and Sara have been integral to my understanding of this place, they are exceptional guides and friends to us. 

We started our day with breakfast- Moroccan donuts and mint tea, of course!

First stop on the shopping tour was Herboriste Secret - a spices & remedies shop in the heart of it. We met the famous Mus Mus, Taha and Sara’s good friend who has become a Remote Year celeb. He’s one of the youngest souk owners in the medina, a successful businessman (RY definitely brings him a lot of business thanks to Taha & Sara- they all work together). He sat us down and poured us tea, showcasing his teas, herbs, oils and potions with convincing showmanship. We all bought into it and I definitely fell for the “Moroccan eucalyptus” which is literally just menthol (though it does work wonders for a cold- that part is true!). Many people on my group went back to see Mus Mus over the course of our trip- he sure won our business!

What’s a shopping day in Morocco without rugs? Rug shopping here is completely overwhelming, so I was interested to see where T&S took us for this must-have item. The whole month I went back and forth contemplating if I should buy one- I can’t afford it right now, but I’m here and it will never be cheaper than here, will I regret not getting one when I get home, do I really need one... in the end I didn’t buy one and I feel fine with that decision. Besides, I’m going back to Tangier for my rug from Mohammed someday!

The rug shop they brought us to was in the Rug Mall, another overwhelmingly wooly place with carpets galore. I have to say I got really close to purchasing because the price was SO CHEAP in their store of choice, I couldn’t believe it! All the rugs we’ve seen have been significantly less than what they’d cost in the States (not to mention authenticity) but this price point blew my mind. I asked about a GIANT rug on the wall just out of curiosity, expecting around $1,500, and the souk owner said $600. And that was his starting price, so could’ve gotten a little lower. The cost of shipping is roughly $100, but still.. an enormous Moroccan rug for under $1,000 total is a screaming deal. 

Next we went to the leather goods section. I had already gone ham on leather bags in Fez so I didn’t intend to buy anything, but of course I found a wallet I wanted to get for Russell, and threw in one for myself to get the double deal. I negotiated here for the good price :) Okay, now I’m done shopping, for real this time!!

In the midst of the Medina madness lies an escape, a break in the maze, a lush oasis to catch your breath. Le Jardin Secret is a traditional Moroccan palace inhabited by the country’s sultans in the 16th century, and has just recently opened to the public. From the garden:

The Architecture

Le Jardin Secret is made up of two separate complexes, each of which can be considered as a self-contained riad. The term riad is used in Morocco to describe any residence with a garden at its centre, as opposed to a dar, a residence in which the small extension of the oust-ed-dar (central patio) does not permit the planting of trees.

2/9

Our track event this month (RY offers one free event in each city called “tracks”) was a hike to a Berber (native Moroccan) home in the Atlas Mountains. The day started out frigid in the morning mountain air, but as we got moving and the sun rose we warmed right up. Our local Berber guide, Rashid, was wonderful and attentive to each individual’s various fitness levels. We started from a small mountainside town in the Ourika Valley to hike a quick waterfall loop. A river ran through the village with restaurants right along the riverbank- I’d never seen anything like it!

The trail begins by winding between homes and souks nestled into the hills-- a literal tourist trap, but also really cool to walk along a trail lined with gorgeous handmade Berber rugs. One of the girls bought one!

Another favorite from the hike were the “natural coolers” with fresh orange juice chilled by flowing river water. That fresh-squeezed vitamin C gave me life-- pretty clutch to have drink and snack stands along a hiking trail!

After the waterfall loop we got back in the van and made our way to Rashid’s home trailhead. At this point in the day we were starving, disorganized and cranky (the joys of traveling in big groups) so this leg of the day started out rocky (pun intended) but ended up being one of my most cherished experiences (level 3 fun strikes again!). After a ~10 minute drive down a remote dirt road it took about an hour and a half to hike to Rashid’s village. This is their daily commute. How can we complain when this is their normal? I preferred to walk but after much insistence by the berber men I hopped on a mule for the second half of the trek. I’m not a fan of riding horses so I was out of my comfort zone, especially along the rocky ridges (see below-- yiiiikes!) but these mules are flawless. I tried to relax and enjoy the ride in this stunning scenery.

We broke out into the valley and approached Rashid’s home. The most beautiful lunch scene awaited us: a Moroccan feast with a view.

Perhaps it was because we were hungry beyond belief, but some people said this was the best tajine they had in Morocco. As we gorged, Rashid told us about his life in this desolate, peaceful place. He is the mayor of two villages in the commune of 80 villages- each village has a mayor and there is a president of the whole commune. He told us that men are allowed to have up to four wives, but that is expensive so only wealthier men can afford to have more than one wife (he has one). We listened and laughed, some drifting off into food comas beneath the warm Moroccan sun. 

After lunch and using the bathroom (always a humbling experience in a remote place like this) we hung out with Rashid’s family, communicating through smiles and expressions with no words in common. We met his newborn baby Aladdin (squeal!!!!!), his warm welcoming wife, his adorable father, and a few others. We took photos of the three generations of men and it was beautiful to see how proud these men were of their family. When the grandfather took Aladdin into his arms with such a prideful smile I nearly cried. This is what these experiences are all about-- the people, the natives, those who were in these lands first. Rashid and his family welcomed a group of strangers into their home with unwavering hospitality, showing off their proudest possessions: family and their mountains.

It was surprisingly difficult to find a yoga studio for the month in Marrakech- most were very expensive drop-in prices that clearly catered to tourists. I was so lucky to be recommended by a local to THEYOGiINME, an adorable studio just down the street from the workspace. The price for an unlimited month was super reasonable (included mat rentals) and I fell in love with the place the instant I walked in. It was too perfect. 

The classes were taught in French and English, sometimes I was embarrassingly the only non-French speaker in class so I would try to follow along as much as I could. One of the teachers said she went through yoga teacher training in Arabic, which she did not speak, so she stressed the importance of getting out of your comfort zone. It was a little harsh but I appreciated that. 

Thank you to Ana and all the yoga teachers for inviting me into your little haven among the Marrakech madness! This place was my zen.

2/7

Had a full-blown girls day, heading to Henna Cafe after the YSL Museum. This is a wonderful place to support because it’s an educational center for Moroccans, offering free henna classes to locals. They use all-natural red henna with no additives. It’s also fun because you can order food and sip tea while watching the artists in action, with a rooftop view of the medina. These women are SO TALENTED, creating free-hand designs so quickly and accurately.

2/7

I loved this place- the art, the fashion, the colors and serenity of the gardens (minus the crowds, but everyone was dressed so cool for their photos!)

2/5

Three of us opted for a tour of Fez outside the city walls, while the rest of the crew went back to the tanneries to shop. Our riad host, the same guide as the day before, drove us to a few points of interest outside the medina.

We started at Dar al-Makhzen, the Royal Palace of Fez. It is not open to the public but we could admire the ornate brass doors from the outside- I could only imagine how it must look inside.

We then walked around Fez’s Mellah, the Jewish quarter. Muslims and Jews have peacefully lived side by side in Morocco since the 15th century. This I found fascinating, extensively questioning my guide about it. They have lived in peace because the first Muslims and Jews came to Morocco as refugees rather than colonizers perpetuating violence, as is most history when outsiders invade a foreign land. Mohammed came as a refugee/descendent in the 3rd century. The Jews first came as refugees fleeing persecution in Yemen, then from Spain where Queen Elizabeth exiled them. North Africa was the “new world” for the Middle East and Europe before America was discovered, its proximity providing a safe haven for oppressed populations. Fez is composed of three sections: the King’s Palace, Mellah, and French district. The city of Fez was founded in 808but the beginning of modernity, or “new city,” came about in 1912.

Our next stop was a viewpoint of Fez above a peaceful cemetery. We could see the tanneries, the area of our riad, amazed at how close together everything looks from afar when it’s such a maze inside.

Next, we visited Art Naji in Fez’s ceramic district, where we were taken step by step through the process of the intricate tile work and ceramics that cover the city. Moroccans learned mosaic from the Romans. There are 400 motifs/patterns that are paired together to make the designs- no human or animal representation, no meaning, all floral or geometric designs, all natural colors. Fez is known for smaller and more detailed patterns than other Morocco cities. The amount of work that goes into every hand-made piece is astonishing!

They create the mosaics by placing the painted tiles upside down, creating patterns FROM MEMORY. Unbelievable!

I bought a tiny ceramic tajine, the quintessential souvenir. We then headed back to the medina to see the tanneries as the other two I was with hadn’t seen them yet, so I braced myself for the smell once again- we also ran into the rest of our group there! Then we walked around the medina a bit more, I felt myself getting mentally exhausted from the intensity of the medina. It’s nonstop chaos (of course not chaos to them, but sensory overload for outsiders) that completely drains you after a while. We returned to our riad, packed up and made our way to the airport.

Transportation tip: Some people took the train back to Marrakech which they said was long- 7 hours versus a >1 hour flight. Flying between Tangier, Fez and Morrocco saves a ton of time, but I wish I had taken the high speed train between Casablanca and Tangier for the experience (would have to train from Marrakech to Casablanca).

2/3

The drive from Chefchauoen to Fez was a little over four hours. I talked with our driver the entire time while everyone else took naps-- that’s what I get for riding shotgun! The drive was beautiful. Mohammed told me there are French and Spanish territories throughout Morocco and the French got the more fertile land for agriculture. We also talked about his religion. He taught me the five pillars of Islam:

Believe God is one and Mohammad his prophet (messenger)

Pray 5 times a day

Participate in Ramadan- fasting sunrise to sunset once a year (I had never thought about this but Ramadan moves one month back every year so it’s harder in the summer when days are long than winter when days are short)

Give 2.5% of your money give to the poor once a year 

Go to Mecca once in your life (obligatory if you have enough money, if you can’t afford or are sick it’s not obligatory) 

After a long drive and lots of new knowledge, we arrived to our riad at about 7pm. There was a mixup with the booking so we would all be staying in three riads rather than one, but it was fine because they were all adjoined (and that way we got to see more riads!), so the staff offered us a free dinner. We’ll take it!! We enjoyed absolutely delicious Moroccan soup and dinner in one of the three gorgeous riads, then said goodnight after a long day on the road.

Just look at this place.

And the riad next door that a few others were staying in.

Riad: “the beauty is on the inside.” Once I learned this it made so much sense. Walking through tight streets with crumbling walls, you’d never know that just on the other side is a place of absolute serenity, an oasis within the maddening maze of the medina. 

Fez Medina Tour

2/4

We had breakfast in our riad- oranges, bananas, mint tea, coffee, and an abundance of breads that we came to find at every Moroccan meal (so much for eating healthy this month!) Then we set off with our riad host for a tour of one of the biggest, oldest medinas in the world.

Normally I prefer to wander a new place on my own, but the old city of Fez is such a labyrinth that it was a saving grace to have a local to follow around. We started at University of Al Quaraouiyine - the oldest existing and operating university in the world (!!!) founded by a WOMAN (!!!!!!!), Fatima al-Fihri, in the year 859. I was blown away by both of these feats, especially that it was founded by a female!! I would’ve thought that it took centuries in this part of the world for women to even be able to get a higher education, but as I talked with our guide more, learned that the world used to be more progressive, then went backwards, and is now turning back around. Progress is a squiggly line. But now that I know the world’s oldest college was founded by a woman (which I think should be a well-known fact), I know there is hope for all the girls of the world to receive a proper education. Our guide told us there are 400 students currently attending the university, which is known for astrology, theology, philosophy and mathematics but used to have all subjects. 

Al Quaraouiyine is made with a mixture of limestone, marble, and cedar wood. Fez is known for more intricate, tiny designs and carvings than Marrakech. 

Islamic art is mainly geometric patterns with no representation of people or animals. This is because their only God is Allah so no other living things can be worshiped, including through artistic representation. The patterns and geometry don’t symbolize anything.

Dar al-Magana: This is an ancient water clock built in 1357 that uses water weight to perpetuate movement of brass bowls to tell the time. Apparently the mechanics are so complicated that during recent renovations no one could figure out how it works!

There are 16 gates into the medina of Fez. This is the main one, the Blue Gate, which is actually green on the other side- the color of Islam.

Strolling through the maze that is Fez’s medina.

Mosques around every corner.

There were many buildings like this one, with open courtyards and two to three stories of rooms. They are artist quarters with rooms for artists to rent to create and sell their goods. We went into one to see some of the highest quality handcrafted leather shoes being made- they were absolutely gorgeous. I still want the yellow ones (price was only about $60, not bad at all!)

Ohhhh the tanneries. The stinky smelly tanneries. This is one of the attractions Fez is most known for, so we saved all our leather shopping for this trip. I really don’t know how we would’ve found anything on our own here, so we are happy our guide brought us. They hand you mint when you first walk in to mask the smell-- I could barely breathe without it on my nose the whole time. Soooo smelly!

First stage: soak leather in limestone and pigeon droppings (ew)- contains ammonia to bleach the leather and remove wool. Second stage: dye leather. The colors are all natural- yellow is made from saffron, red is poppy, pink is poppy + henna, green is wild mint, orange is henna.

Leather jacket shopping! Arpi got one custom-made, it’s soooo soft. I bought the backpack I’ve been wanting which is now my everyday laptop bag! After the fact I learned that I had definitely overpaid. The negotiation game here is tough. I was so excited with my haggling skills thinking I got it down to such a good price, then saw the same bag in another souk in the medina for much less. We learned that the guides take tourists to the tannieries and get a cut of whatever their group buys, so the priced are hiked way up. Tip: buy your leather goods in the medina, not in the tanneries and not where your guides bring you!!

Next stop was a silk store. We got a mini-show, just like the rug show, of blankets and scarves and silk throws. 

Lunch at a very touristy, overpriced restaurant, but how could I complain when it looked like this...

2/3

I planned our transport from Tangier to Fez through Tangier Taxi (they were great!) with a three hour stop in Chefchaouen (I was a little nervous about finding the driver in the confusing walls of the Kasbah and gathering everyone on time, but it all worked out!). 14 of us piled in the van and began our long road trip. I sat in the front, talking with our driver Mohammed the entire way. Just like our taxi driver the day before, you could tell how proud he is of his country and how much he wanted to share with us. The drive was absolutely gorgeous, endless green hills of olive trees that Mohammed made sure to point out continuously. 

We arrived in Chefchauoen, also known as Chaouen or The Blue Pearl, and had three hours to explore, which was not quite as much time as we’d like. I’d say four hours to a half day would’ve been better, maybe even an overnight as there are some hikes in the area, but to get the gist of the city a few hours was fine.

Stepping inside the walls of the old city it feels like stepping into a storybook. Enclosed by blue it’s like you’re swimming through the town, on land but under the sea. Chefchaouen means “look to the peak” or “horns” as it’s nestled between two peaks in the Rif Mountains. I’ve heard many different stories as to why the city is washed in blue-- keeps homes cool in the summer, repels mosquitos, painted by Jewish refugees who were fleeing Nazi prosecution as a color of solidarity. Whatever the reason, it casts a calm over the peaceful city that is broken in some of the most picturesque spots by instagrammers and influencers, such as this particular street:

There was a long line to get your photo on this street. It felt weird, intrusive, as locals were stepping by to get to their homes.. the kids above looking annoyed but used to the gaggle of foreigners constantly snapping photos of their entryway. Despite feeling bad about being one of these tourists, I still found myself waiting in line to get the shot, and struggled with this dilemma the whole time being there. I felt like I was taking so much from them but giving nothing in return (I guess besides money in their restaurants and shops). I bought a scarf from a shop near these famous stairs and met Ahmed (@roadtothedesert) who taught me how to tie my scarf as they do in the Sahara (his was 9 meters long, he just kept wrapping it and wrapping it!!) I asked him about his work and this city, if the amount of tourists blocking people’s homes was annoying. He said he lives in the Sahara so for him it’s no problem, they bring him business, but for the people who live here it’s a different story. 

We had lunch with the most spectacular 360º view of Chaouen, an immense peacefulness overcoming me. Afterwards we just wandered and explored until it was time to get back on the road. I would love to come back here someday with more time to feel that peace, absorb the city’s calming presence. 

Seven of us stayed in Dar Zaitouna in the Kasbah of Tangier. This place was basically a palace. It looked like an art gallery or a museum. The pictures on Airbnb didn’t do this place anywhere near justice. It was one of the nicest places I’ve ever seen, much less stayed in. It makes me wonder how many impeccable places like this exist within the old crumbling walls of Morocco’s old cities. You don’t really think about it as you’re walking around the medinas, but this what some places look like inside. I learned that riad means “the beauty is on the inside.” Dar Zaitouna is a testament to that. 

See the little kitty peeking out?! 

Me contemplating my life out loud to my friends: I’m living in a Moroccan palace drinking red wine out of a goblet. How did I get here? 

2/2

We continued from the Kasbah to the medina, still within the walls of the old city overlooking the Atlantic/Mediterranean seas. I was awestruck, not realizing how fantastic this place would be. There is wonder around every corner, eye candy in the form of rich colors and textures, curiosity as to what’s around the next bend. 

We stepped into the most beautiful rug store I will ever see, and had our first Moroccan “rug show.” They pour tea and lay the rugs out in front of you, watching your reactions to see what you like, stacking rug upon rug into a big pile of your color/style/size preference. Then you go back through the pile and say “waha” for yes, “ijma” for skip it. I wasn’t actually shopping but it was fun to see how it’s done!

Mohammed, the owner of the store, took us up to the terrace to see the view of this hometown, which he had so much pride for. He was kind and genuine, a grandfatherly figure, never pushy or sales-y (unlike his employees). After getting to know each other he picked out the rugs he thought I’d like, and he was spot on. They were exquisite. I told him I really can’t afford a rug now, but I promise to be back someday to buy one from him (they are SUCH good prices compared to the US, but I have no money to spare at the moment). I couldn’t stop staring at one rug hanging on the wall, which he told me was the most expensive in the store. The pattern was mother of pearl, because “where there is water, there is life.” He said I have expensive taste and a special charm. I will come back to Tangier to buy one of Mohammad’s rugs while he’s still alive, new life goal!!

After a bittersweet goodbye (part of me still wishes I bought a rug, I hope I don’t regret that) we continued on, and it wasn’t long before we made our next friend of the day, Majid. He owned the most beautiful shop that used to be his home, but now he lives somewhere else. “That’s what life is about: grow, then go” he told me. I asked him what the most special part of the shop is and he said “the shop itself.” He was so proud of his livelihood that he didn’t negotiate the price on anything- price was set with no room for haggling.

Stopped at Rif Kebdani for a yummy meal with wonderful service. 

We stepped outside the Old City’s walls to catch a cab to the Herculean caves.

After some negotiating (of course), we split into two cabs to the Herculean caves, one of Tangier’s main attractions. Our cab driver turned into a full-fledged guide, telling us everything about Tangier, explaining everything we passed. Tangier is high-end and luxurious, it’s where wealthy Europeans have vacation beachfront villas and Middle Eastern kings stay during visits to Morocco. The roads were spotless and modern with fancy street lamps and landscaped medians. We passed palace after palace, gated with guards, one for the Saudi Arabian king, one for the Moroccan King, one for the Algerian king, etc. He made it into a mini-tour, stopping at viewpoints along the way, even trying to get us to ride camels at one point (it was way too windy/cold). I learned so many interesting things about Tangier from this guy, here are a few:

English, French, Spanish, Portuguese quarters

The American embassy was the first embassy in Morocco

1956- Moroccan independence, 1957- Tangier independence. Took longer for Tangier because it was such an international city, governed by 8 nations

Tangier recently completed the first high-speed train in Africa to Casablanca

Morocco is a monarchy. Mohammad III gained Moroccon independence. Mohammad VI is King now, since 1999- young. Next in line is son Hassan third

Gelaba- traditional Moroccan dress with pointed hood, religious

That’s Spain on yonder-- Gibraltar! Moroccans cannot easily go into Spain or Europe, sadly.

Where the Atlantic Ocean meets the Mediterranean Sea. 

The Caves of Hercules were super cool. I had no idea what to expect, but I’m so glad we went. Hercules is thought to have come here, hence the name, and there is an opening in the rocks known as the “Map of Africa.” We watched the sunset change through this window, enthralled by the changing colors and crashing waves. It was spectacular, a glorious show by Mother Nature, so much movement and color captured within a frame that really does look like Africa.

After our impromptu tour of Tangier, we went back to the palace and realized how hungry we were. Noad left to find food and came back with tajine from the same place as the night before-- he actually gave us tajine to-go! Check out the take away containers... hahahah so funny, gotta be one of my favorite moments of Morocco. We had so many questions.. how did he have the perfect crate for the perfect amount of tajines for us?! Is it just honors system to bring it all back? How is it only 30 dirham per plate?!?! We were beyond happy.

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A group of us flew from Marrakech to Tangier, a quick one-hour flight that was extremely turbulent the whole way (Noad kept me calm and after we landed told me he was secretly terrified too... next time I’m taking the train!)

We arrived around 11pm, had great fun negotiating with taxi drivers and trying to navigate to our riad (if I hadn’t been traveling with French speakers it would’ve been a whole other ordeal). The cab driver took us inside the walls of Tangier’s Kasbah, the streets narrowing around us in the darkness. Two people from our group had arrived via train earlier and met our taxi in a main square to show us to our place, which we never would have found on our own. We followed them down tight, twisting cobblestone alleys, happy to not be navigating. The riad was just..... wow. S.T.U.N.N.I.N.G. So gorgeous it deserves its own blog post. 

We settled in and set out into the night to find water, even though it was past midnight so our chances of finding someplace open in the sleeping town were slim. Wandering through the empty streets wondering how we’d ever find our way back, we stumbled upon a man outside his tiny restaurant. We asked if he had bottles of water which he did not, so he told us to follow him to his friend’s store. A few twists and turns away we found that his store was closed, so the man knocked on the door and yelled for his friend in Arabic, who opened up for us. How lucky! The kindness of strangers. After stocking up on water bottles, the man invited us to his restaurant for tajine. How could we refuse? The eating nook was in a tiny attic that looked like a doll house-- the little space above the door:

We proceeded to have mint tea and my favorite tajine of Morocco for 30 dirham ($3) each, enjoying our surprise meal until 3:00 a.m. One of the many mysteries of this country... how does he have all this food ready to go in the dead of night? Why is he even awake, much less open for business? This is my favorite part about travel- the unexpected encounters that turn into the best experiences, the unwavering hospitality of people, the secret spots you’d never find yourself until a local takes you under their wing. We went to find water and came home with full bellies, a fun story, and one of my favorite memories of the trip.

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I love arriving to a place at night so when you wake up in the morning your surroundings are revealed, like Christmas morning. I woke up early and went straight up to the rooftop to see where I was. Salam, Tangier!!!

Zach had just arrived via overnight train, so he, I, and Dave, the early risers, set out to find coffee. We stumbled upon Cafe Baba, a cute spot which I didn’t realize is legendary for all the famous people who’ve visited! The owner poured up our “Moroccan whiskey,” which is what they call very sweet mint tea, and told us this is the best tea in town. “Trust me, go try every other cafe in town and report back to me. This is the best!” He was very sure of it. He brought us behind his counter to show us-- he boiled the green tea with other herbs before pouring it over the mint. It really was delicious, I’ll give him that. 

On our way back we spotted the adorable cafe Salon Bleu, then gathered the others and led them to breakfast. The blues and whites reminded me of what I imagine Santorini to look like.

After brunch we went across the square to the Kasbah museum in the historic Dar el-Makhzen, a palace that housed the sultans of Morocco during visits to Tangier.