Kirimelty

Do we fw vampire Melly Alimelly?

NOTE: Here's a link to the pattern school discord. If this link has expired, please message me off-anon and I can send you one. I like to get to know everyone in the pattern school and so I don't let too many people in at once, so that I don't get overwhelmed.

So quick summary of where we were: Pattern School is a project that I'm working on in this blog, and that has an accompanying Discord server. The purpose of Pattern School is to teach people, though hands-on experience, the consistent conventions that sewing patterns use. It also teaches basics about how to transform patterns into designs that do what you want them to do. Pattern School is divided up into steps. Each step builds on the skills of the previous one, and each one teaches new elements.

Here's the pattern school tag, in chronological order.

In step 1, everyone follows a commercial pattern with notches, grainlines, and written instructions. This pattern is for something that is not fitted to a human body/is not multi-sized. In this step, we make sure that everyone has a basic foundation understanding of how commercial patterns are made. We choose a non-fitted item so that selecting the correct fit and adjusting for body shape is not necessary. If the student wishes, an additional challenge for step 1 will be to look at a pattern, see if it's usable in lolita fashion, and make good fabric and trim selections to make a usable lolita item.

In step 2, we take a pattern for pajama pants and use it to create bloomers. This step introduces the basics of pattern manipulation. We go into how to remove seam allowance, measure ourselves for fullness, and assemble a garment from a modified pattern. Once again, there is a challenge of choosing good trim and fabric options to build a usable lolita garment.

In step 3, we will be making a lolita or lolita-adjacent garment for ourselves. This garment will be a fitted item, and it will have a closure. What's a closure? Closures are something that opens and closes to allow the wearer to get in and out of the garment. Closures can be zippers, button plackets, hooks and eyes, IDK freaking magnets or something, if you want to put velcro as a closure then more power to ya, but your garment needs to have some kind of closure. I've made resources for how to put in zippers, but other closures are probably also acceptable. Pullover elastic is not a closure. We are making a garment for ourselves because it's a lot easier to make a fitted garment when you have the body you're using right there with you at all times. If you are always with another human being while you sew, you could probably use them, but the critical component is that you have the body accessible to you all the time.

This time, the challenge is also to make something that either can be part of your lolita wardrobe, or that forces you to choose and style something that has a lot of lolita fashion aesthetics. If you want to pick a lolita-adjacent concept, like Aristocrat or Fairy Kei, you're probably fine? If you're doing this on your own, the person who decides if you're cheating is you. If you're in the Discord, you can ask if something's acceptable and like 15 people will disagree with it before tagging me and then I make up an answer on the spot. I firmly belive that Ouji is just lolita with pants and doesn't need to be stated separately.

I previously made a very long list of garments that you can make EGL fashion with, but it's older and some of the patterns are out of print. So, here's a few hours of me going through the big 4 pattern website and finding stuff that has potential.

Dresses:

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So quick note: my image editing software kept refusing to function with images off simplicity.com, so we're going to alternate between funky screenshots and semi-competent images. I'm not sorry.

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Any time you're making a lolita dress from an existing dress pattern, you'll need to check that the skirt will hold our petticoats. Frankly, most of them don't. You've done the bloomer step, so you do have experience with this kind of modification, but I'll do a tutorial later about checking this and drafting your own skirt onto an existing bodice. For step 3, doing a commercial pattern for the bodice and then following a web tutorial for the skirt totally counts. What we're looking for in a dress pattern is the ability to mod it into a working lolita dress. Please note that Simplicity 8444 (the pirated-but-not-pirate lolita dress) and Simplicity s9735 (the “why'd you use Derpy-chan??”) dresses are not eligible for Step 3, as they are both elastic pullovers.

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Blouses: However, Simplicity 8444 and s9735 both have blouses that work for step 3. If you want to build the JSK on your own and then follow the blouse pattern for step 3, you're good.

The McCall Titanic looking thing is a really fun blouse to make for this, and it's got a back zipper, so if you're not confident in your button-sewing then it's a good option.

Any button-up that goes all the way to the neck has some lolita potential. M8463 is actually pretty loliable on its own.

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Vests are easy to make, don't take a lot of fabric (so you can use some really fancy fabric and have it not break the bank). You're going to have to find a good reference image for lolita but they're really good for ouji and aristocrat, so they get a category.

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I've just always wanted to make my own lolita coat so they get a category. Once again, you're going to need to double check that the flare fits your skirts.

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Welcome to the weird shit category. There's a costume shop near me that sells these funky bolero steampunk things and I've always wanted to put it in a coord, so it's on here. The other one is a top that you could probably use as the top half of a JSK, so if you want to make a coordinating skirt then you could have some fun separates. I think handmade lolita needs more coordinating separates. They're a real thing but I want them to be more common.

So that's in no way a complete collection of patterns you can use, but I hope that's got some kind of inspiration about pattern. My test garment was made off an etsy pattern. There's plenty of other patterns out there. This was just the fastest way for me to showcase some patterns that do work.