100 Days of... Courgettes: Dancing with De Sade
Despite appearances, I'm not currently reading 100 Days of Sodom. I am in France though, and set myself a rather 'sadistic' challenge. I bought a crate of courgettes to prove to the people I live with that they are the most useful and versatile vegetable. I stand by this - we've had courgette ragu, courgette pasta (as in spaghetti made of courgette), courgette salad. All the courgettes. In this post, I'm going to share my favourite 2 courgette recettes with you. Spicy courgette cake and a Middle Eastern summer classic: muttabal kousa. The most important thing to remember with courgette cooking is that you can literally do anything with it
Courgette Cake
So, this took 2 of the 27 courgettes off my hands. Grate them and set to one side. Now, you make your cake. The courgette acts as you binder and moistener, so you don't use any dairy and whilst there is flour in the cake - obvy - it is super healthy. The measurements - and a slight alternative - I used can be found here: http://allrecipes.co.uk/recipe/19067/spiced-courgette-cake.aspx. However, do not use apple sauce and you definitely don't need to worry about brown or white sugar. Also, forget the pecans: walnuts work way better. Anway - my recipe and that don't differ all that much so don't worry if you don't like my ideas.
375g plain flour (+ backing powder and bicarb - handily in France they come together in 'cake sachet's) should be added to 400g of white caster sugar and 220g of demerara sugar. If you have no brown sugar to hand, don't worry. For those that like their cake super moist, you can substitute it for a few teaspoons of honey, or just use an extra 200g of white caster (note the difference!). Add in plenty of ground cloves, cinnamon and mixed spice - I don't give a fig about this whole 'teaspoon of x spice' blah blah blah - just add however much you want as it's your cake.
Beat together 4 eggs and, if you can find it, onion jam. The reason I use onion jam rather than apple sauce or anything is that I think the sweet onion flavour works much better with the courgettes and the spices, in particular. Whilst the apple enhances the 'Christmas' idea behind this, we're in summer and the onion makes it much fresher.
Fold this eggy jam into the mixture and then do the same for the courgettes. The mixture should turn from powder to raw cake mix basically instantly. The courgettes have all the requisite liquid in, alongside the eggs. The jam, as I discovered when I attempted to leave it out, is actually integral to making it work. Do not try to go without.
Add the extras, like chopped walnuts or glace cherries of whatever takes your fancy and pour into the greased pan. Cook, as you would any other cake, on about 190degrees FAN for about 30-40 minutes, or until it is set (i.e. when you can put a fork on top and it bounces back).
This is your final product:
Your cake should be dark all the way through. Beware - it is sticky, so make sure to be careful and let it cool before you remove it from the pan. Everyone scoffed at this idea: they soon ate their words - and another helping.
Muttabal Kousa
This is Syrian, and definitely one of my favourite dips. It's niche and rare, so this is one of the only recipes for it on the internet - I've looked for others. The story behind it is that I ate this once in Amman and loved it. In a quest to recreate it, I searched far and wide, but to no avail. Here is my not-half-bad reconstruction.
Like many other Middle Eastern dishes, this should not be eaten straightaway, but, rather, left in the fridge for perhaps a day, in order for the flavours to really coalesce. This is a delicate balance of cinnamon, mint and courgette and makes for my favourite warm weather, summery dip. To be eaten with pitta, or pasta or on salad or anywhere really.
Ok, Ok. I know this is not the most appetising photo in the world. However, in my defence, I was so desperate to get stuck in that I didn't have time to simper and fawn all over it in my best Nigelle impersonation. Unfortunately, my idol and I do not share the same ability to make the ugliest food sexy. Yet, trust me, this may not look amazing, but it just tastes of the sweet summer that we long for.
Take your courgette - perhaps 2 of them - and peel them. Then chop them to tiny tiny pieces. You must all chop 2 small onions in the same way and 3-4 cloves of garlic, depending on your taste. Fry the garlic and onions in lots (cholesterol? Obesity epidemic? Get stuffed...) until the smell is exquisite and the onion translucent. Add the courgette, alongside plenty of salt (who cares about your blood pressure... I don't!) and black pepper (or white, which would, I think, work better - sadly, none to hand).
Stir and stir and stir your courgette gently round the pan. Now that the courgette (after perhaps 20 mins) is thin and soft and very edible and smelling fantastic, chop up some rosemary and some fresh mint. Add the fresh herbs and stir. Add about a teaspoon and a half of cinnamon - or however much you feel is appropriate - and continue to fry for a further five minutes.
Take the courgettes off the heat and roughly blitz with one of those hand held processors - do NOT blitz all the way like in the above photo, just so that it is mixed in well - my second attempt was much better. Stir in 2 tablespoons of creme fraiche, or natural yoghurt. Leave to cool and eat the next day, straight from the fridge. Like with the hummus, the muttabal kousa takes a day to really get there.
So, my courgettes got used up. Happily, I am not sick of them. In fact, courgette has become my favourite vegetable. French life seems to be all about ingredient challenges - that egg custard happened because I was presented with 4 duck eggs and told to do something. The next challenge is this humongous bowl of plums which have been brought to me... I can feel a plum pie brewing in the air...











