Jackson Tampa's Wood Projects

First seen Here

Recently finished this carving and shipped it off to my customer. Original design by Mark Akers, carved for sale with permission from his rough out. The Santa, tree and axe are carved from basswood, the white part of the base is pine, and the dark is walnut. All except walnut painted with acrylics. Santa stands about 8 inches tall, not counting the base.

First seen Here

This is my first scroll saw completed project on my new scroll saw. I made it for my wife for Valentine’s Day. I slightly modified pattern from sdgood.

First seen Here

I leaned heavily on the Paolini video for making the arms since bent lamination is a new adventure for me. He suggested resawing the laminations for the arms starting with the table saw them finishing cutting them with the band saw. My blanks were just about 1.125″ thick and I wanted to get 3 lams from each blank, so I switched to a thin kerf blade.

Remember to keep the same side of the blank against the fence. I recommend a high fence to eliminate any chance of the stock tipping as it is being pushed through the blade. On to the band saw for the final cut for each lam.

After the lam is cut off, I needed to run the blanks through the planer to get a flat surface to push against the TS fence. Repeat the above until all the lams have been cut and planed to 1/4″. While resawing with the TS wastes a bit more wood than I would like, it is a good way to prevent the BS blade from wandering-not that mine ever has. 😉

I stacked the lams to prevent any warping if possible and so far, so good.

My next step was to make the bending form. Paolini drew a baseline on the plans and ticked off 1″ increments, then measured the distance from the baseline to the bottom of the arm profile at each increment. Next he drew a new baseline on a 6″ wide piece of particle board and again ticked off 1″ increments and marked the appropriate height with lines perpendicular to the particle board base line. Then he connected the dots and cut about 1/8″ outside that line with the BS. Finally, he faired the curve with a horizontal belt sander. I followed his guidance and you can see my rendition.

I think the photographer was out to lunch for the above segment. :/

After that, it is simply a matter of marking the 7 additional particle board strips and cutting the curves with the BS.

After they are all cut, glue and nail one of them to the original and run them across the router table with a bearing bit aligned with the faired piece.

I gotta get a dependable photog!

Attach a stop at one end and on one side of the form and cover it with tape so the glue won’t stick to the form. I used 1/4″ melamine for the side.

The hardest part of this was lugging the particle board form around, it must be about 50 pounds when complete. I had a few minutes before quitting time, so I cut the side slats to final length. I used a stop to ensure they were all the same length.

More tomorrow if all goes well. Thanks for reading along.

First seen Here

I can not tell the name brand of this saw I am working on. It does not have a disston name on it anywhere. Maybe a Vermont American or something. But here is before & after pix of electrolysis and ROS with WD40. In the middle of my saw vice but had to call it quits for the day. Should finish the saw vice tomorrow.

First seen Here

A friend hired me to build her a wooden ice chest for her son-in-law, who is a huge Atlanta Falcons fan, so I had just the design in mind. It’s nothing fancy, and she didn’t want anything fancy, but it’s very sturdy and since it’s made from pallet wood and has several coats of Thompson’s Waterseal on all outer surfaces, it will withstand the elements for years to come.

First seen Here

Wine Rack made form solid wood, hold 8 bottles of wine and 6 wine glasses. This wine rack is finished in Antique Satin Walnut finish.

First seen Here

I bought this to wrap the area of my dust collection system where the plastic and filter bags mount to the collector. Before, I was getting small dust trails. After installation, I am not finding such trails.

Obviously, I am getting a better seal with the foam than I was when just clamping the [four] bags directly to the metal of the collector. I had upgraded to one micron bags and they fit pretty well, but now they fit even better. In short, in a warm shop and clamped in place, or with pressure on the foam, the product works very well.

This was sold for mounting campers (I’d put it on the bottom of the camper, rather than the pickup) to pickup beds. It’s wider than standard foam door gaskets, so it was perfect for this “off label” function.

This measures 3/16″ thick by 1-1/4″ wide.

I cannot say how cold affects the tape, because my shop is heated and in that environment I am, as noted, very happy with the product and will be buying more for my other collectors and cyclones.

First seen Here

This is my first scroll saw completed project on my new scroll saw. I made it for my wife for Valentine’s Day. I slightly modified pattern from sdgood.

First seen Here

I leaned heavily on the Paolini video for making the arms since bent lamination is a new adventure for me. He suggested resawing the laminations for the arms starting with the table saw them finishing cutting them with the band saw. My blanks were just about 1.125″ thick and I wanted to get 3 lams from each blank, so I switched to a thin kerf blade.

Remember to keep the same side of the blank against the fence. I recommend a high fence to eliminate any chance of the stock tipping as it is being pushed through the blade. On to the band saw for the final cut for each lam.

After the lam is cut off, I needed to run the blanks through the planer to get a flat surface to push against the TS fence. Repeat the above until all the lams have been cut and planed to 1/4″. While resawing with the TS wastes a bit more wood than I would like, it is a good way to prevent the BS blade from wandering-not that mine ever has. 😉

I stacked the lams to prevent any warping if possible and so far, so good.

My next step was to make the bending form. Paolini drew a baseline on the plans and ticked off 1″ increments, then measured the distance from the baseline to the bottom of the arm profile at each increment. Next he drew a new baseline on a 6″ wide piece of particle board and again ticked off 1″ increments and marked the appropriate height with lines perpendicular to the particle board base line. Then he connected the dots and cut about 1/8″ outside that line with the BS. Finally, he faired the curve with a horizontal belt sander. I followed his guidance and you can see my rendition.

I think the photographer was out to lunch for the above segment. :/

After that, it is simply a matter of marking the 7 additional particle board strips and cutting the curves with the BS.

After they are all cut, glue and nail one of them to the original and run them across the router table with a bearing bit aligned with the faired piece.

I gotta get a dependable photog!

Attach a stop at one end and on one side of the form and cover it with tape so the glue won’t stick to the form. I used 1/4″ melamine for the side.

The hardest part of this was lugging the particle board form around, it must be about 50 pounds when complete. I had a few minutes before quitting time, so I cut the side slats to final length. I used a stop to ensure they were all the same length.

More tomorrow if all goes well. Thanks for reading along.

First seen Here

I can not tell the name brand of this saw I am working on. It does not have a disston name on it anywhere. Maybe a Vermont American or something. But here is before & after pix of electrolysis and ROS with WD40. In the middle of my saw vice but had to call it quits for the day. Should finish the saw vice tomorrow.

First seen Here

I can not tell the name brand of this saw I am working on. It does not have a disston name on it anywhere. Maybe a Vermont American or something. But here is before & after pix of electrolysis and ROS with WD40. In the middle of my saw vice but had to call it quits for the day. Should finish the saw vice tomorrow.

First seen Here

A friend hired me to build her a wooden ice chest for her son-in-law, who is a huge Atlanta Falcons fan, so I had just the design in mind. It’s nothing fancy, and she didn’t want anything fancy, but it’s very sturdy and since it’s made from pallet wood and has several coats of Thompson’s Waterseal on all outer surfaces, it will withstand the elements for years to come.

First seen Here

Wine Rack made form solid wood, hold 8 bottles of wine and 6 wine glasses. This wine rack is finished in Antique Satin Walnut finish.

First seen Here

I bought this to wrap the area of my dust collection system where the plastic and filter bags mount to the collector. Before, I was getting small dust trails. After installation, I am not finding such trails.

Obviously, I am getting a better seal with the foam than I was when just clamping the [four] bags directly to the metal of the collector. I had upgraded to one micron bags and they fit pretty well, but now they fit even better. In short, in a warm shop and clamped in place, or with pressure on the foam, the product works very well.

This was sold for mounting campers (I’d put it on the bottom of the camper, rather than the pickup) to pickup beds. It’s wider than standard foam door gaskets, so it was perfect for this “off label” function.

This measures 3/16″ thick by 1-1/4″ wide.

I cannot say how cold affects the tape, because my shop is heated and in that environment I am, as noted, very happy with the product and will be buying more for my other collectors and cyclones.

First seen Here

My wife and I use our third bedroom as a home office. The closet had become a repository for disorganized piles of junk. It had one shelf, but that was it. I wanted to make the space more usable and more consistent with our use of the room as an office. Plus I wanted it to look nice.

I used antique iceboxes as my design inspiration. It helped that we have an actual example that my father-in-law had given us. It came in handy for some of the construction and design details.

The three upper doors open onto one large compartment with a shelf. The middle three doors hide drawers which are on full extension slides. The lower two drawers are for hanging files and are also on full extension slides.

The drawer slides were a challenge to find. The closet is deeper than typical cabinetry, but I wanted long slides to maximize drawer depth and space utilization. I found 28″ slides at Grizzly that could handle the loads. As an added bonus they are soft close.

I also looked for file hangers to use in the file drawers, but had trouble finding much. The hardware I did find was the wrong size and expensive. I shouldn’t say wrong size. It was intended for a normal file cabinet, not the huge drawers I built. I improvised with 1/8″ x 1″ aluminum stock from the hardware store and just cut it to length. I think it works better anyway.

I included one ‘before’ picture where I was doing the usual prep work of fixing the old drywall and repainting. I wish I had taken an earlier picture to show the old sliding closet doors, but those had already gone.

The new structure behind the face frame is melamine faced particle board. The drawer boxes are Baltic birch plywood. The face frame and door frames are oak. The door flat panels are oak plywood. Hardware is reproduction from Kennedy Hardware, except for the two drawer pulls on the lower drawers. Those are from Lowes.

The finish is polyurethane with a little antique oak stain used as a toner after the first coat of poly.

First seen Here

Woodworking-Tips-Ideas-Projects-260

First seen Here

Woodworking-Tips-Ideas-Projects-270