~ heartinks ~

I travelled down mt. Batukaro to dense inland jungle abyss on a humid Sunday afternoon! A scenic, winding drive passing paddy field after paddy field, coconut plantations and rural villages i curiously observed daily Balinese life outside the city - it was tranquil out here! Chit chat with my balinese mate enroute I came to learn that Balinese culture is dominated by mysticism, belief in magic and evil spirits. The flower offerings littering the streets (as well as the car!) and the dedication taken to make these offerings which are strewn to a multitude of gods numerous times a day is a powerful reminder of this polytheistic religion and the philosophy “everything is sacred” (including the car)! A little more snooping and a little more curious chit chat i learnt that Balinese have their own little feng shui going on based on Tri Hita Karana, a Hindu philosophy centred on a holy trinity of harmony. Most traditional Balinese homes include a private family temple, are all built towards the “sacred” mt. Batukaro and facing the sun rise as this is considered “safe”. Even the beds have to be pointing towards mt. Batukaro.

3 hours later & head spinning I arrived at the Kul Kul farm greeted by lovely of the loveliest Kul Kul lady Maria and the two adorable family dogs. I immediately felt at home with a warm welcome and walk around the land with head farmer Orrin Hardy. The farm has three zones: an inner zone with the herb garden, surrounded by a middle zone with a plant nursery and livestock area, a duck pond, a couple of chicken pens, and an outer zone with a variety of food produce - moringa, papaya and banana plantations on the circumference. As Orrin explained the landscape design of the farm is modelled on a food management system key to survival. Outdoor and communal living space are very much a part of the Kul Kul lifestyle, the fire circle and outdoor kitchen area with 2 cob ovens and a bamboo library a testament to this.

And so my days of exploration and discovery of farm life unfolds giving back in every possible way... planting tulsi, learning about plant guilds, painting signage for the compost loos, making a Belgian fence out of Papaya branches, turning the compost pile, learning about moringa (harvesting, tincture preparation) and herbs, learning how to breed micro-organism cultures, soil constituency and fascinated by the the intricate water irrigation system in Bali (a feud between mysticism vs. need for a modernised agricultural system).

One of the joys of farm life was observing and making do, improvising, adapting with what was readily available in the surrounding environment… The farm is a place to create, improvise and explore as much as it is a place to re-connect with Mother Nature.

After a couple of days here I was completely immersed in the vastness and denseness of the jungle abyss; time standing still to the point that every nano sound and micro movement became amplified in my brain! I can still recall the sound of worms wriggling in the earth, insects twitching in the soil, bees whizzing, butterflies fluttering and each inch of leafy growth ticking. I like to call it aliveness! All this ‘aliveness’ and overwhelmed! As dusk breaks chanting and Balinese drums and gong echo through the jungle abyss as the locals gather in ritual and the mosquitos take over in swarms. This is the best time to head to the fresh water pool to cool off from the humid tropics. It felt safe, deep and snug over here in this densely green overgrowth.

As I spent more time on the farm I realized that living sustainably off the land requires complete immersion and “working with the land and surroundings” in order to reap the benefits. It is a continuous learning experience as much as it is a labour of love so well exemplified by Maria and Orrin. Sustainable living is not about mass production but about living in a ‘balanced’ exchange and harmonic (symbiotic) relationship with the land and with the surrounding community. I often ponder how feasible is this in the fast paced life of the 21st century?