WHAT VETS RARELY TELL NEW PUPPY OWNERS
We love our four-legged companions. We spend a lot of money feeding them.
Having been a dog owner, and caring for dogs professionally for many years, I have become aware of the myths and misinformation regarding dogs' diets, and the implications that the wrong food, and feeding routine, can have on their health.
My intention of writing is to help dog owners gain a better understanding of their petsâ needs and to keep them out of the vets.
I am always mystified why many vets never challenge what a dog is being fed, as a big clue to diagnosis. Cruciate ligament injuries in young dogs are, in my opinion, nothing to do with breeding when a rescue mongrel suffers from it. Why aren't more dog owners and vets asking "why"? So many illnesses dogs suffer could be avoided.
I apologise for the length but it is an important subject.
Puppies need food little and often. Their growth and energy output demands plenty of fuel.
My advice to all new dog parents is to spread out their food intake, from a daily ration. Little and often. Avoid long gaps without food, because empty bellies = trouble.
Something I get asked a lot is âDo puppies need dedicated puppy food?â. The answer is â yes, if itâs possible. It is better in quality and may not contain as many contaminants as adult food. Your dog needs to be fed as a puppy ideally for the first 12 months of their life, after which they will be fully grown.
Dispelling a Serious MYTH
"Dogs are always hungry, no matter how much they have eaten".
There are two types of hunger: one that is a neural reaction creating a drive from an empty stomach - which we all feel and
hunger that exists in the brain as a mental condition caused by deprivation. It leaves a big, deep mental mark. You can feed a dog who has suffered extreme hunger more than its stomach can hold and it will still never be satiated.
Increasing the amount they eat, is dealing with the wrong hunger issue.
A dog like this, you feed little and often - spreading out their recommended daily ration. Adding a little water into the food bowl can help them feel it goes further as well as keeping them hydrated.
Once you have put some food into their tummy, it is definitely helpful to know that if your dog is still mithering for food, it is nagging from conditioning, rather than pure hunger.
Think how big a dogâs stomach is - look at it as a bag that mustnât empty out for any length of time. If it does, you'll hear it gurgling and your dog will be gastric juice, bile sick. It hurts them. Imagining the stomach as a small bag also helps when considering food portion sizes.
For those who have finicky feeders...if your puppy is continuously looking at you for food - offer them some kibble. If itâs eaten straightaway, your dog was genuinely hungry. If itâs a ânahâ, then you know the nagging was more for attention and a tasty treat. Because true hunger will demand anything edible.
You need to know your dog is not running on empty. I have known dogs eat mud, soil and its own poop and will steal food off counter tops, even though it knows itâll be punished. Dogs donât want to be punished. Try to remember the last time you felt hunger - what did you do?
And I ask .... âwhat can they do?â
It is a myth that hunger is a normal state of existence for a dog.
Ask a famine survivor if they can forget the sensation of hunger - theyâll say âneverâ.
My experience is that most dogs will naturally self regulate their food intake. Even labradors and retrievers. When theyâve had enough - they leave it.
If feeding dry food - always mix a little water with it to make a soup. (I should say, I strongly dislike feeding dogs a solely dry food diet.) Dry food contains a lot of oil (often the cheapest kind, used industrially and in engines). The oil is required to process the dry food through the dogs digestive system. It leaves a nasty slick in their mouths - hence the need to drink. There should be no additional salt (sodium chloride) in dog food yet Iâve tasted dry dog food - and it was salty and greasy...just saying.
A dog kept on a 100% dry food diet will begin to feel empty and hungry not long after eating. Because a lot of what theyâre eating is... AIR and oil.
Puppies eat dry food from pure hunger drive. It is last-resort-food for them. Hunger and an empty tummy = bad feeling often resulting in hyper activity and poor behaviour.
When youâre hungry the drive to eat can stop you doing anything else. We will find food wherever we can by turning to the fridge, cupboard, a shop or fast food outlet, to assuage that hunger. It doesnât mean what weâre eating is good for us! In fact, weâll make our worst nutritional choices when weâre our hungriest!
What can your dog do? Where are they going to find food? How difficult must it be when they see us eating in front of them?
They smell with an intensity. But theyâre not allowed to go near that food so theyâll steal it off counter tops/tables/binsâŚ.
Many dogs fed good diets, become fastidious eaters. They know what they like - and itâs not processed food.
Theyâve been left so hungry they never forget the sensation of that and will eat, regardless until theyâre sick. And this mental conditioning happens when they are puppies...
Dry Food often means - portly dogs
Kept on a dry food diet, dogs put on weight, because of its carbohydrates, fat density and additives of rice, maize(corn), oats and perhaps cereals... unnatural canine foods. Peas and chickpeas are one of my major bugbears - theyâre usually like cannonballs, uncooked and unnecessary for a dog to have. They pass through undigested, can cause wind and tummy pain. So I pick them out and am appalled at the quantity, in ratio to the meat.
Dry food alone is not good for dogs. It is cooked at a very high temperature - removing all nutrients and moisture, it becomes one colour (brown) so colouring additives are often used and the nutrients added in after - hence their presence in the ingredients list. Thereâs plenty on google about it.
In some dry food there is just 4% protein and meat products meaning youâre paying for 96% of nonsense. Real meat (not chicken proteins which can be their poop) is what dogs need to thrive. Turkey twizzlers - junk.
Rancid & Risky - mistake of buying for convenience and penny savings.
Puppy parents and owners of hungry dogs, often buy huge bags of dry food. As soon as they open it and allow the air in - theyâre also allowing in moisture thatâs in the air. This then reacts with all the oil in the dry food - eventually turning it rancid. After a week of the bag being open - you are feeding your dog food that is turning toxic. Smell the food from a newly opened bag with the dry food from a big bag thatâs been open for a few weeks.
Do you leave salad dressing out of the fridge once opened? If you did, after a few days the oils would turn rancid. Thereâs no difference in dry dog food.
Many owners forget their dog is growing, so feeding the same dose of dry food the packet prescribed a month back with a long interval between meals. If a puppyâs last meal is about 5pm and theyâre not fed again until 8am in the morning - that is a long time to go without food. Can you manage it?
These little beings are going through huge growth, especially whilst theyâre asleep. They burn vast amounts of energy which demands fuel.
Dry food manufacturers spend a great deal on marketing their products and the packaging to keep it immaculately dry - until you open it exposing the kibble to moisture laden air.
Dry Food and The Lymph System
Ever seen dogs with lumps on their bodies? That may be from dry food which has leeched fluids and moisture from their body as it goes through the dogâs digestive system. It compromises the lymph systemâs ability to remove dead cells and fatty deposits naturally. (this is my theory).
âMeat & Animal Derivativesâ ? Remember Jamie Oliver and turkey twizzlers?
IT IS NOT NATURAL FOR DOGS TO BE CONSTANTLY HUNGRY. (I need to keep repeating this for emphasis).
Note: not a good idea to give your puppy chicken unless you want to risk runny poops.
Turkey is slightly less rich, but give it just in small quantities and if you buy turkey, duck or venison already cooked, make sure there are no preservatives, salt, sugar or chemical additives - 90% do have all of these.
And if you do take your dog to the vets because theyâve got diarrhoea and are advised to âgive them chicken and riceâ - my advice is DO NOT. It can often make the problem worse.
Fish and rice are a better alternative mixed with pumpkin puree and a clay additive which are easily available online.
Treats cost less if they are little pieces of beef or cheese.
Shellfish is often an ingredient of glucosamine and chondroitin. If your dog develops an itchy skin - that may be caused by an allergy to shellfish. Look for food without it.
Food tins using the description âjellyâ or âgravyâ should be avoided. Youâre paying for water and itâs not âfoodâ⌠back to the hungry dog.
ALWAYS READ THE INGREDIENTS of EVERYTHING
The less ingredients and additives - the better
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These are the things to safely add into your dogâs food....
Any food that is at least 60% meat with NO preservatives, sugar, oats, corn meal or rice. (I pick out peas all the time from processed dog food. The ingredients list states 8% peas - yet the peas fill about 1/3rd of the tray). Trading standards do not have time to regulate dog food. Pets At Home sell Wainwrightâs - which contains oats. Red Flag so read the ingredientsâŚ
â Sardines/pilchards with bones in
â Raw or cooked full fat minced beef
â Broccoli (ideally raw and finely grated) and use the water from broccoli and steamed
â Smoked Mackerel or kippers
â A teaspoon of olive oil
â Any fish and its skin
â A sprinkle of gelatine powder for calcium
â Tuna chunks (cheaper than tuna steak) but not more than once a week.
â Plainly cooked sweet potato in its skin or pumpkin fresh or tinned,
â Carrots (but not too many as for a dog - their bodies see this as acidic)
â Cooked thin beef slices - quite cheap in packets from Aldiâs and Lidlâs but caution as they do contain added salt. Read the ingredients and pay a few pence more for the one
â Apples (no pips). Finely grate into a dogâs meal.
â Blackberries and raspberries
â Bone broth made from cooking meat bones (but never, ever give a dog the cooked bone).
Symptoms of food allergies are:
â Bad breath - sicky odour particularly. If it persists even after changing food - it could be diabetes or a broken tooth. Check with the vet.
â Anal Gland problems - frequent butt scooting
â Skin problems - flaking and scaly, discoloured hair, cysts
Biting at feet and discoloured coat
Inflammation - perhaps the skin around the eyes
â Smelly poops and wind
â Loose and frequent poop
â Yellow coloured poo - the liver is being compromised or there is too much fat in their food. (exception being if theyâve had sweet potato)
Itâs exactly the same warnings for dogs as it is for us. Sugar decays teeth, puts on weight and creates addiction to it. There are loads of hidden sugars in dog food and in ours. Become an expert on learning all the different names for it and donât think itâs OK to share your biscuit with them - itâs not. They quickly learn to expect it and teach children not to share their sweets and treats - because they will - unless you warn them they're harming their pet.
If your dog frequently brings up yellow bile vomit - it is because of a prolonged empty stomach - the gastric juices are devouring the stomach lining which is intensely painful. Vomiting them up is the natural safety mechanism to protect the stomach.
Your dog needs calcium. Do a Google search to find ways for them to get it as weâve removed bones from their diet. I suggest gelatine - itâs either made from pig bones or beef bones - itâs the same stuff but you can create it yourself just by boiling meat bones for a couple of hours and saving the stock - chuck the bones in the bin though, as theyâre dangerous for your dog once cooked. Most butchers are happy to give you meat bones on specific days when theyâve done their prepping.
Become an expert on nutrition for your dogâs health and your familyâs.
Antler chews sold in most pet shops are good but donât give puppies with baby and new teeth a hard bone - or they could break a tooth. Wait until theyâre about 6-7 months. Antlers and Kongs are a safe way for teeth cleaning.
The things that put weight on a dog is the wrong food - not the having too much of it. If your dog eats 80% protein and 20% carbs - the protein sustains the appetite so they donât feel empty so quickly and will keep their metabolism balanced. They just do not need empty carbs. The more proteins and fats (very important) - the longer they can go without feeling hungry. (again, same as us).
A dog in the wild will naturally eat proteins, skin, hair/fur/feather and berries...look at a foxâs poo and youâll see stones and pips in it, because these work as excellent gut fibre.
Your dog will not put on weight IF you
Balance the energy IN with the energy OUT (itâs basic knowledge)
A good run off lead twice a day in the summer
And an hour off lead in the winter
And plenty of ball play if they enjoy it. Also try bubble blowers...
â Try to buy Puppy dedicated food but if itâs not - donât worry.
â Keep dry food as a base but not as the sole diet 20% dry to 80% wet.
â Buy small bags of dry food and always mix with water
â Do not let your puppy get hungry.
â Do not feed foods or treats that have wheat, preservatives, sugars, oats, grains, salt, onions, tins saying âjellyâ, chocolate but particularly dark chocolate, raisins. Be cautious with cereal and give thought about all the nonsense ingredients added on the packaging of dog food. Herbs and blueberries do not fill a dogâs belly but look pretty on the list of ingredients.
â Balance a minimum of 60% meats/protein in their food to all the other items.
â You can avoid buying expensive processed dog treats made of cereal by buying a block of cheddar cheese and cutting into small pieces or grating it.
â Thin inexpensive pieces of meat (not chicken) can be dried in an oven at a low temperature for a couple of hours...and shredded
â Beware of white rawhide - itâs been bleached and processed with carcinogenic chemicals unfit for consumption. Just go easy on it. There is also the theory that rawhide swells in the stomach but this is unproven.
Avoid anything that says âmade in Chinaâ where use of carcinogens is not regulated. And you may be feeding your pet, meat contaminated with dog meat.
Always try to feed your dog straight after theyâve had lots of exercise.
Gravy bones and dental chews have sugars and cereals in them. I am suspicious of the value of dental chews - I donât like them. Fattening, contains cereal and I doubt they really clean a dogâs teeth. Donât give your dog food with sugar in it and then their teeth should be fine and donât need to be brushed. Itâs another nonsense.
There is nothing better for our dogs than well-thought-out-home-cooked high protein food.
Finally - whatever you do when there is a change to your puppyâs diet - do it gradually. Youâll have a dog with an upset tummy until their digestive process matures. If runny poops happen, buy a tin of pumpkin puree on Amazon - without sugar or additives and mix a teaspoon into all their food. Some dogs will lick it off a spoon. With the rest of the pumpkin in the tin, decant it into small containers and freeze. Donât leave it in an open tin for more than 2 days.
Thank you on behalf of your dog, for taking the time to read this.
My hope is that some of what Iâm saying, will make perfect sense to you.
I am not a qualified vet. I am not a qualified nutritionist.
Everything I write comes from experience and caring.
It is never JUST a dog. They are our loved, thinking, feeling companions where you can make the comparison to a 4-10yr old depending on the age, breed and experience of the dog.
#It shouldnât cost more than ÂŁ1.50 a day to feed a medium size dog. And yet there are many begrudge spending that on a dogâs meal.
If you want to save money, cook their food fresh.
I welcome input so if you have contradictions or want to ask a question - don't hesitate.
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