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@drugs-101

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Phencyclidine (PCP)
Phencyclidine & Other l-Phenylcyclohexylamines. Phencyclidine (PCP or angel dust) & its analogs create many different types of effects, dependent mainly on the individual user. It was first used to immobilize primates & is still used as an analgesic &/or anesthetic agent. It has been used on humans for the same purpose with limited success.
As stated above, the effects are mainly determined by the user. Some people experience paranoia, others have fits of rage, & others have great euphoria. Mood alterations are always accompanied with time, perception & visual hallucinations. Some people have tried the drug & do not agree with it, so I do not approve of the practice of telling people that your PCP is THC or some other hallucinogen. These drugs are quite potent, so use themwith a great deal of respect (I think that overdoses have CP the bad reputation that follows it today) as bummers from this drug have occurred often.
The way that ethylamine, diethylamine, methylamine, piperidine, etc., can be used as analogs of one or another reminds me of the synthesis of LSD or DMTs. The formula is quite easy to carry out & it gives good yields in large quantities. Note: Given are several different methods. You may use any way that you feel will suit your needs & you may substitute any of the amines with an equimolar amount of amine analog to produce the desired
l-phenylcyclohexylamine. However, the formulas stated give the best yields obtainable with that particular amine.
These drugs are active orally, intermuscularly, & also by smoking. They should be kept in a dark, well stoppered bottle, in a freezer as much as possible.
METHOD 1. A mixture of 100 g of anhydrous ethylamine & 220 g of cyclohexanone is kept 16 hours, shaken with solid KOH, & the oil layer is removed by decantation. Distill the oil layer in vacuo to get the intermediate N-cyclohexylidenethylamine. Prepare a mixture of phenyllithium by mixing 11 g of lithium & 76 ml PhBr in 500 ml of Et20. Add the phenyllithium dropwise to a solution of 51 g of the N-cyclohexylidenethylamine in 500 ml of Et20, with stirring & cooling, to keep the temp at 0. Stir for one hour & then decompose by adding water. Separate the Et20 layer, wash with H20 & distill to get 1-phenylcyclohexylethylamine or analog. The hydrochloride form is obtained in the usual way,
as given below.
METHOD 2. A mixture of 170 g of piperidine, 220 g of cyclohexylamine, & 750 ml of benzene is azeotropically distilled until the evolution of H20 stops, then vacuum distill to get cyclohexenyl-piperidine. p-toluenesulfonic acid monohydrate (190 g) in 250 ml of PhMe is heated under a water trap until all the H20 is removed, then add a solution of 165 g of cyclohexyl-piperidine in 500 ml of Et20, with cooling, to keep temp at 0. A solution ofI mole of PhMgBr (made from 157 g of PhBr & 24 g of Mg) in 750 ml of Et20 is added (still holding the temp at 0 to 5). The mixture is stirred for an additional 30 min after the dropwise addition is complete. Decompose the mixture by adding an excess saturated NH4Cl & NH40H. The Et20 layer is removed, dried over K2CO3, & distilled to give phenylcyclohexylpiperidine. Convert to the hydrochloride form by dissolving the free base in an excess of iso-PrOH-HC1 & then precipitate the salt (the hydrochloride) with Et20& crystallize from Et20-iso-PrOH (this is a mixture).
how do i make lsd?
I did not put any LSD Synthesis on this blog yet because the manufacture of LSD normally requires a Laboratory that has had a few thousand dollars dumped into it. That's even before you start thinking about getting the required components. If you have some pharmco friends or the like, you have a great start.
I will put up a guide when I can work out what good substitutable equipment (lab gear) would be available to people without glassware or lab equipment contacts.
I would like to add that I'm putting up this info for informational purposes only.
People should be informed of what goes into their body & the process likely taken to get there.
Obviously everyone's methods are different as are the resulting products.
The products from these methods (tried & tested) are quality.
If there is anyone under 18 here, please leave.

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Ketamine.
1-Hydroxycyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone N-methylimine To the grignard reagent prepared from 119.0 g of cyclopentyl bromide & 19.4 g of magnesium is added 55.2 g of o-chlorobenzonitrile. The reaction mixture is stirred for three days & thereafter hydrolyzed in the usual manner. From the hydrolysis there is obtained o-chlorophenylcyclopentylketone, bp 96-97C (0.3 mmHg). To 21.0 g of the ketone is added 10.0 g of bromine in 80 ml of CCl4. 1-bromocyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone, bp 111-114C (0.1 mmHg) is isolated in the usual manner. Since it is unstable, it must be used immediately. The bromoketone (29.0g) is dissolved in 50 ml of liquid methylamine freebase. After one hour, the excess liquid methylamine is allowed to evaporate. The organic residue is dissolved in pentane, & upon evaporation of the solvent, 1-hydroxy-cyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone N-methylimine is isolated, mp 62C. 2-Methylamino-2-(o-chlorophenyl)-cyclohexanone (Ketamine) 1-hydroxycyclopentyl-(o-chlorophenyl)-ketone N-methylimine (2.0 g) is dissolved in 15 ml of decalin and refluxed for 2.5 h. After evaporation of the decalin underreduced pressure, the residue is extracted with dilute hydrochloric acid, the solution treated with decolorizing charcoal, & the resulting acidic solution is made basic. The liberated product, 2-methylamino-2-(o-chlorophenyl)-cyclohexanone (Ketamine), after recrystallization from pentane-ether, has a mp of 92-93C. The hydrochloride has a mp of 262-263C.
Simplified Acid/Base Extraction of DXM
Materials needed: Clear Ammonia (Non-Sudsy) Naptha (Ronsonol, Zippo, or Red Devil Cigarette Lighter Fluid) Gallon-size Ziploc Baggies Cough Syrup containing only DXM or DXM/Guafenisin Scissors Pin or needle A 2-liter jug or gallon jug with lid Microwaveable bowl or glass pan for stove-boiling Lemon Juice (fresh squeezed, or ReaLemon, or one of those plastic lemons you find in the produce section)or Countrytime lemonade mix with SUGAR, not aspartame. Toothbrush & toothpaste Procedure: Determine how much Cough Syrup to buy. Assume you will lose about 10% of the DXM. 8oz Equate TussinDM has 475mg of DXM Do not extract more DXM than you will be taking that day unless you want to trip on DXO. The product will gradually turn into DXO if left overnight or for a period of many hours. You might like the DXO trip, but I dont. Pour cough syrup into your gallon jug or 2-liter. Add an equal amount of ammonia. Shake for 30 seconds. Add Naptha equivalent to about 10% of the volume of cough syrup/ammonia. These measurements dont have to be exact, the only thing I would advise is not to use too much ammonia (no more than an equal amount to the cough syrup) ifyou are using a syrup with guafenisin. An excess of ammonia will turn the guafenisin into a slightly oily layer, which will take a few hours to separate, rather than a few minutes. It sucks when this happens. Shake your ammonia/naptha/DXM for at least 4-5 minutes. Shaking it longer wont hurt. Each molecule of DXM must touch ammonia, then naptha, in order to be extracted. Each that doesnt will be lost. Pour the mixture into a ziploc baggie & hang it up on a nail by one of the top corners. You will see your mixture begin to separate& should be fully separated in just a couple of minutes. Ammonia/Guafenisin/coloring will be on bottom, a clear layer of naptha containing your DXM freebase on top. You should see a perfectly clear line of separation without bubbles. If there is a bubbly layer in the middle after 5 minutes, youve gotten oily guafenisin & youll just have to wait it out. Ive noticed this happening more with certain brands of ammonia, but the Wal-Mart Equate brand ammonia always worked great for me. Rinse out your shaker jug very well, youre going to need it again in a minute. When you have a clear separation, you're going to snip a SMALL hole in the bottom corner of the baggie, & drain out all the red stuff on the bottom. Be sure to do this in a well-ventilated area, outside is best. Otherwise go into a bathroom & drain it down the sink, holding the baggie close to the drain, with the tap running. As you see the naptha/DXM layer getting close to the hole, get your jug ready. Let a tiny bit of the naptha out the hole, to be SURE youre not getting any ammonia in your final product, then drain the rest into your jug. If you are using a colored 2-liter bottle, Id suggest draining the naptha into a clear or white bowl first. Inspect it for any reddish bubbles. If youre using a gallon water jug, youll be able to spot them in the jug. If you see any, it means you got ammonia in your product. AMMONIA IS TOXIC. You must remove it before proceeding with the next step. Do this by pouring your naptha into another baggie, hold by a top corner. Youll see the red drops settle to the bottom corner. Prick the corner with a pin & let the ammonia drop out. Then return the product to your cleanly rinsed jug. At this point you can either evaporate the naptha using a blowdryer, in a glass pan or bowl to produce DXM freebase powder, or proceed with the instructions below to produce DXM citrate, which I recommend over the freebase form. Neither form contains bromide, making both a much healthier form of DXM than DXM HBR. Add an amount of lemon juice equal to the ammount of naptha, or 3 oz, whichever is more. If you are using freshly squeezed, strain the pulp. Shake the lemon juice/naptha for 5 minutes or so. Pour into a ziploc baggie. Hang by a corner. This will take a while to separate, at least an hour.** **Alternative** Use countrytime lemonade mix, the kind WITH sugar, not aspartame. The first 3 ingredients will be sugar, fructose, citric acid. This method works fine, & separates instantly, cutting your extraction time from over an hour to about 20 minutes. Use about 3 tablespoons of mix to 4 oz of water, a much stronger mixture than if you were actually making lemonade to drink. The problem with this method is that if you dont use a strong enough mixture, you will recover alot less DXM than with lemon juice. Dont worry about it being too strong to drink. It tastes pretty bad, but its actually alot better than the lemon juice product. Either way, you're only drinking a couple of ounces, so it beats chugging syrup anyday. Be sure not to get the Countrytime with aspartame. If you are not used to consuming aspartame, using this much at once may cause a nasty headache, which may ruin your trip. The headache has been known to last for 2-3 days. When your product has separated, your DXM is now in the bottom layer, snip the corner of the baggie & allow your product to drain into a microwave safe bowl or glass pan for boiling on the stove. Don't lose too much product worrying about the naptha layer getting into it, try not to get any naptha, but if you end up with a drop or two in there don't worry. When you boil your final product, the naptha will immediately rise to the top & evaporate cleanly. Boil the lemon juice/DXM for about 5 minutes, in the microwave or on the stovetop. Be careful microwaving, as the product tends to boil up & over like noodles on a stove do. Make sure your bowl is large enough that you dont lose half your lemon juice over the side. You'll be extremely pissed if this happens. I suggest a bowl larger then your normal sized cereal bowl, or a very tall microwaveable glass. Chill the lemon juice, theres less of a gag reflex that way. Have toothbrush & toothpaste handy, this stuff tastes super bad. Effects kick in in about 30 minutes, peak around 2-2.5 hours. Some feel this is a far cleaner & more spiritual trip than using syrup or powder.
Milking 5-MeO-DMT from Toads (don't harm the toad or I'll find you)
Half-a-gram to a gram or more of fresh venom can be collected from a large adult specimen of B. alvarius. Half of this weight is water and evaporates upon drying. But, as much as fifteen per cent of the dry weight is the predominant alkaloid, 5-MEO-DMT. In other words, one large toad yielding one gram of fresh venom may equal as much as seventy-five milligrams of potent hallucinogen, psychoactive in man at doses of three to five milligrams. Fresh venom can easily be collected without harm to the toad. Use a flat glass plate or any other smooth non-porous surface at least twelve inches square. Hold the toad in front of the plate, which is fixed in a vertical position. In this manner, the venom can be collected on the glass plate, free of dirt and liquid released when the toad is handled. When you are ready to begin, hold the toad firmly with one hand and, with thumb and forefinger of your other hand, squeeze near the base of the gland until the venom squirts out of the pores and onto the glass plate. Use this method to systematically collect the venom from each of the toad's granular glands: those on the forearm, those on the tibia and femur of the hind leg and, of course, the parotoids on the neck. Each gland can be squeezed a second time for an additional yield of venom if you allow the toad a one hour rest period. After this, the glands are empty and require four to six weeks for regeneration. The venom is viscous and milky-white in color when first squeezed from the glands. It begins drying within minutes and acquires the color and texture of rubber cement. Scrape the venom from the glass plate, dry it thoroughly, and store it in an airtight container until you are ready to smoke it. The venom from B. alvarius is extremely hallucinogen when vaporized by heat and taken into the lungs in the form of smoke. An adequate dose for a normal adult of average size is a piece of dried venom about the size of a paper match head. Shave it into thin slices with a razor blade and put the pieces in a clean one-toke pipe fitted with a brass screen. Designate this pipe strictly for smoking toad venom, as the accumulation of residue in the bowl and condensation of vapors within the stem can yield an unintentional high with other smoking materials.

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Extracting Salvia
The extraction is basically in two parts. The first being an extraction with water, and the second with acetone. This method produces high quality extracts by removing most of the resins that would leave you with a gummy mess. Home extractions up to 20x are possible in this manner. Please be aware that acetone is flammable and its vapors toxic.
for this you will need: 100 grams salvia divinorum (whole leaf or large pieces preferred) 1 large mixing bowl 1 large piece of muslin or cheesecloth 1 gallon COOL distilled water (but not cold) 1 large glass baking dish (9x13 or so) a coffee grinder 2 quart mason jar (must be glass) 1/2 gallon of acetone(do not buy "extra strength" or anything like that, and please evaporate a few ounces to be sure it does not leave any residue, if it does, do not use it) several coffee filters 1 wire strainer (6 inch or so, to fit the coffee filters comfortably, cannot be plastic) 1 small glass dish for evaporation (we use one that is 5 inch wide and 3 inch tall) The recipe: Take your mixing bowl and place the muslin or cheesecloth in it so that the edges are liberally draped over the side of the bowl. Place the whole Salvia leaf on the cloth. Fill the bowl with COOL distilled water to generously cover the leaf. Be sure to submerge and wet all the leaf. Allow this to sit for ten minutes (no longer, and if your leaf was crushed it should be for a shorter period, say 7 minutes). Gather up the edges of the cloth to make a bag around the leaf and lift it out of the water to strain the leaf. GENTLY squeeze most (but not all) of the water from the leaf. Discard the water. While Salvinorin is insoluble in water, it is quite probable that a small amount was lost in this step, being pulled out along with the resins and oils which it is soluble in. This is bearable when one considers that 12 grams or so of gooey resins were just removed from your final product. Place the leaves in the glass baking dish and dry in the oven at 200 degrees, turning and fluffing the leaf every couple of hours. When it is COMPLETELY dry, remove it and allow it to reach room temperature. Verify at this time that the leaf is in fact dry. Remove the amount you will use for the final product, crush it and set aside (5x=20g, 10x=10g, 15x=6.5g, 20x=5g). Grind the remaining leaf in the coffee grinder or blender to a powder. NO PLASTICS should be used beyond this point as the acetone will dissolve them. Place the powdered leaf into one of the mason jars and cover it generously with acetone. Allow this to sit for 24 hours, stirring it a few times. If the seal on your mason jar contains plastic(which it probably does), be sure not to allow the acetone to contact it. One can also simply lay a piece of glass, wood, or metal on top of the jar to prevent evaporation. After 24 hours, place the coffee filter in the strainer, and pour the solution through the filter into the second jar. Squeeze the remaining acetone out of the leaf powder. Return the leaf to the first jar, add more acetone and let it sit for 24 more hours. Repeat the straining and add the second liquid to the first. Discard the leaf. Pour the acetone solution into the glass baking dish and allow it to evaporate down to about 8 ounces of solution. Place the crushed leaf (which you had set aside 2 days ago) into the small evaporating dish and pour the remaining acetone solution onto it, being sure to scrape the sides of the baking dish. When this evaporates to the point that the leaf is just moist and no liquid remains, add a few tablespoons of acetone to the leaf and use the leaf to wipe off the resin which will have crusted to the side of your dish. As this is evaporating be sure to stir it often to prevent more resin from collecting in any certain area. When this is dry, you will be finished. Congratulations! Our own assays of this extract process shows that it produces basically the same potency as standardized extracts of similar strengths, but it should be remembered that, unlike standardized extracts, the quality and potency of the end product is proportional to the quality and potency of the starting material. I would like here to strongly discourage against giving extracts stronger than 5x to people who are inexperienced with salvia. Many people find the salvia experience quite disturbing and unpleasant. It is far better to give a person a weaker extract than to have to physically restrain them or piece them back together psychologically. Salvia also seems to have rather variable effects between people, some people being very susceptable and some not. So it is better to give a small amount at first in order to see how strongly it affects a person. I, for example, am quite content to take a 15x, while some people sit on 5x Just try to remember that if you are giving this to someone else, they are someone else. They are not you, and will not necessarily react as you do. Be responsible, otherwise this ancient tool will become illegal. as so many others have
I can't be bothered to do anymore atm, have the flu.
Will update tomorrow.
Extracting DMT from Plants. Method 2.
You need acid "A" (Hydrochloride, vinegar or acetic acid), defatting solution "B" (Methylene chloride, naphta, acetone), base "C" (Ammonium hydroxide, lye), kettle, filter or cheesecloth, two containers, extraction funnel or turkey baster, pH meter or paper. Find all this equipment, read and understand how the extraction works, and find a place you can do it in. Harvest. If you have fresh grass, place it in freezer overnight. Next morning take it out, let it soften just a bit and place it in blender or juicer or chopper and blow it to pieces. If you want to be thorough, you can freeze it again after first chopping, and chop again next morning. This is done to rupture the cells of the plant to free as much of the alkaloids as possible. Dried grass pulverizes (literally!) easily in blender. Dont open the lid immediately, or some of your finest powder will float away. Note that drying will lower the alkaloid-content (as a result of plants metabolism). Add small amounts of water to make the mush/powder pourable. This is called Mixture. You can now begin. 1. Converting alkaloids to salts. Â Add acid ("A") to the Mixture to bring the pH down to 5.Add small amounts, check pH, add small etc. etc. Alkaloids react with the acid and form salts. To ensure that large portion of the alkaloids really do this, give the Mixture time and some heat(less than 50 C); don't boil. Simmer it overnight with a lid on.
2. Removing unwanted oils. Â Place the Mixture in the funnel. Add 10% of the Mixtures volume of defatting solvent ("B"). Shake. Shake. Shake. Let the Mixture and the solvent separate; they will form two different layers, and oils and fats will move to the solvent layer. Separate solvent and Mixture layers, and throw away the solvent layer (if you don't have a real seperatory funnel, then shake the Mixture and the solvent in a jar and use a turkey baster or an eye dropper to siphon off the top layer). Now the Mixture no longer has solvent-soluable oils or fats.
3. Converting the alkaloid-salts to freebase-form. Â Add base ("C") to the Mixture to bring the pH up to 9.5. Add small amounts, check pH, add small etc. etc. Alkaloid-salts react with the base and convert into freebase-form, making them non-water soluable, but soluable into your solvent ("B").
4. Removing the alkaloids from the Mixture. Â This is similar to step 2. Add 10% of the Mixtures volume of solvent ("B"). Shake. Shake. Shake hard. Wait until the solvent and Mixture form different layers. Separate solvent and mixture. Put the solvent (which now holds some of the alkaloids) in some container to wait. Repeat this step three more times, and wait a week each time before separating the solvent and the mixture.
5. Preparing the alkaloids for smoking. Â Place the solvents in some shallow container and allow to evaporate. Do this in either very well ventilated space or outside. No smoking or open fire near the solvent. This takes several days. Solvent evaporates, leaving behind orange (color varies) substance, that may be hard or gummy. Scrape this off the container. You now have extracted DMT, 5-MeO-DMT and some other alkaloids from the plants.
6. Add some smokeable material if necessary. Add some solvent or alcohol (spirits over 40% of total alcohol in volume) to this tar, mix in some smokable material (oregano is fine), and let the liquid evaporate.

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Making Hashish
Get a LOT of female plants that have grown all the way and may even contain seeds. Make sure they are absolutely dry by hanging them in a shed for some weeks. Now take off All the leaves that are bigger than 1/2 inch. You end up with just a stem with some buds sitting on it. Now strip off the buds into a container. (BTW, Hash (moroccan style) consitsts EXCLUSIVELY of the pressed grains of resin that are sitting on top of tiny resin glands that are most abundant on the leaves surrounding the seeds, or flowers. when the plant is dry this resin hardens to form a very small particle, called "pollen" which is not actual pollen however.) So now youve got all the clean buds start crushing them over a kitchen sieve (mesh size about 0.5 mm). The seeds and stems will stay on top of the sieve. "Grind" the leaves gently through the sieve. You end up with a sort of powdered leaves. Be sure that the thin skins that surround the seeds are included in this result, because they contain most of the resin glands. You may repeat this process using a sieve with an even smaller mesh size (0.25 mm). Then take a cloth with the appropriate "mesh size" and rub the powder you have already got over this cloth. In the ideal case, only the finest particles pass through the cloth and will ill consist only of tiny grains of resin. Now take this powder and wrap it into a sheet of kitchen plastic foil. Now press this "package" between a few logs of wood. The result is a sheet of hashish. If the sheet falls apart again you've got too much leafy stuff in between the resin. Try a cloth with a smaller mesh size the next time. This procedure is only advised when you have so much weed to spare that you don't possibly smoke it all in a year.