Drawing Tutorial Archive

This is the one I have and it’s a great starter tablet! As of August 8, 2018 the price on Amazon is $58.09.

Last year I actually bought the 2048 model, the previous version, and they sent me this one (not complaining tho). Thus far I don’t have any complaints about it. Any issues I had were manageable. Below I’ll outline the main points of owning the tablet.

Tablet

Size: 9.45 x 14.17 x 0.39 inches large

Active area: 10 x 6.25 inches

12 customizable express keys along the left side

16 customizable soft keys along top of active area (these can be deactivated)

Feels mostly sturdy

Slick surface - didn’t find a textured surface accessory like Wacom but you can put a sheet of paper over it and it will still work

The lower left button got stuck once

Stylus

Lightweight

Long lasting battery - it’s only died on me twice and I’ve charged it 3 times

Feels midway between cheap and premium but leans more towards cheap. Especially the buttons

Pen Nibs don’t wear down easily. I’ve used it for about a total of 6 months and I’m still using the same nib it came with. (I draw lightly tho)

Software

The install was pretty smooth. I actually didn’t have to do anything except plugin the tablet and run the installation software. It’s on the MicroSD card that comes with the tablet so no driver download or installation disc (I don’t even have a CD drive).

You can rotate the active area 90 degrees, 180, and 270 degrees. This let’s you “switch” the tablet to left-handed mode at the 180 degrees option.

The above is default rotation as an example, and the below is 90 degrees rotation, so you can imagine the other rotations:

1) Sometimes the mouse pointer would get stuck in the upper left hand corner of my screen when I used my pen. This only happens when you plugin

To fix this, either:

Quit the tablet driver (through the hidden tray icon), Disconnect/Reconnect the tablet then open the tablet configurations. Press apply, then leave the configuration window open. For some reason closing the tablet configuration causes problems.

Plug in the tablet before turning on your computer

2) Sometimes pressing an Express Key would make the tablet stuck. Meaning it was stuck registering that action. So it has two green lights that indicate when the pen is near the surface and when you press an Express Key. They turn off when the pen is away from the tablet’s surface. In this issue, the lights stayed on after I pressed the Express Key.

3) The driver would just crash and not let me do anything. When I tried opening the tablet configuration I would get an error message in Chinese. This has only happened twice since I got it tho.

The fix for issues 2-3 was to Quit the tablet driver (through the hidden tray icon), disconnect and reconnect the tablet.

4) The last issue I found was that Krita and MyPaint wouldn’t recognize the tablet if I opened the program before plugging in the tablet in to the computer This is common sense tho if you think about it. Probably the painting program and not the tablet. (*Need to test in MediBang and Sketchbook Pro0

To prevent this, make sure the tablet is plugged in before opening the paint program

Accessories

8GB built-in Micro🅱enis Card (installation software is on this card so no software downloads. Also good if you don’t have a Disc Drive)

Pen Stand + 8 pen nibs - I haven’t even switched any nibs yet

Pen Cap - safety (cap it before you tap it)

Huion Glove - reduces friction, helps make strokes smooth (for the sweaty handed people)

Huion Carrying Bag - doubles as a cleaner for your tablet (to virtue signal that you do not follow the crowd and buy Wacom)

I originally posted this here:

Eyyyy I gotcha bro!

examples of me using rule of thirds to separate elements in “Rachael and Penny”

i got the information a long time ago from a thread on penciljack called Storytelling 101, specifically this image

Omg don’t worry about being random! It’s okay! I’m so honored that you like my flowers, and that you asked me! I’m going to give you a brief walkthrough, and I hope you find some of it helpful!

I’m putting a disclaimer here because I don’t consider myself at all particularly good at drawing flowers. I wing it every time! The most important thing for me, therefore, is look for references! 

It’s helpful to look at references that match what you want to draw! Do you want to draw one sunflower? Do you want to draw a bouquet? Do you want to draw a field of them? Each view has a certain thing you kind of emphasize. 

I’m going to show you the basics of how I would go about sketching a sunflower - however, this is a really quick, 5-minute sketch? But this kind of applies to flowers in general!

The arrows here show the direction of the petals on a flower, which depends on the direction you look at it!

You have to consider what flowers look like in 3 dimensions - they change their appearance depending on if you are looking at them straight on top or from the side or even the bottom or back! With most flowers, you have the center, and then the petals spread out from there. They are all the same size/even if you are looking at a top view. On the side view, however, petals appear “shorter” if they are facing you, thinner if they are parallel to you, and longer if they are facing away. 

When you look at sunflowers, you also find that petals go inwards, both towards the center and outwards. It’s different than those with more round petals.

And then don’t forget leaves! Also notice how flowers also have sepals, and receptacles attached to the stalk! Sometimes I see people forgetting those! 

I hope this is a little bit helpful!! These are super sketchy, but sometimes it can help to just practice quick sketches rather than stress out over single flowers. I find it’s easier to draw a lot and in many clumps, so a single flower doesn’t stand out so much. If you look at the flowers in my art, they are actually kind of simple and messy, but because of how I have arranged them, I’ve tricked you into thinking I can actually draw flowers, haha! 

For more tips about actual flower arrangement, color and composition, this is helpful! My friend covered it a lot better than I could have! 

ah jk jk here is a study/tips with drawing tears

Types of crying. Is your victim sad or happy? Add emotions to those sobs

Take in mind 3d body making things not straight, like water flow on a surface. 

I’ve noticed some digital artists out there who just kind of guess when choosing the dimensions of their artwork. Trying to understand ppi, dpi, print dimensions, and resolution can send you down a rabbit hole of complexity likely to break your brain.  

If you are creating an image only for the web, it is really up to you how big you want to make it. The only relevant dimensions are the pixels. Print size and pixels per inch are of no consequence. A 1920x1080 300ppi image will be the same as a 1920x1080 600ppi image. Your screen only cares about pixel dimensions.

If you plan to print your image, that is where things can get complicated.

Here is the simple version…

First you need to determine the maximum size that your work may be printed. Here are the most commonly used sizes for poster prints. 

Now you need to know the brand of printer that will be used. Typically it will be Epson, HP, or Canon.

For Epson printers…

Input the width and height. 

Input a resolution of 360 pixels per inch.

For Canon, HP, and most other printers…

Input the width and height. 

Input a resolution of 300 pixels per inch.

So let’s say you are in photoshop and you want your art to be printed at 11" x 17" on an Epson printer. This is how you should create your document. 

If you do not know how your work will be printed, I recommend erring on the side of “too big.” If you end up having to enlarge your work, it could result in some quality loss. 

Here’s a quick step-by-step of how I draw hair:

1) Sketch/lineart: I divide hair into various sections, keeping in mind the flow and direction from where it originates on the head. The simplification is usually more effective and clean than drawing every strand individually - it’s especially useful for my sketches since I render everything in the end. Compare:

2) Start with a base colour underneath a sketch. This is the midtone!

3) Add a darker version of the midtone on shadowed parts of the hair to create form and dimension.

4) Put down a super vibrant highlight colour! I try to use zigzag shapes instead of a flat rectangular patch of light to create a more natural sort of feel.

5) Render. I merge all my layers and refine + add details!

6) Final step: add a few loose strands, which makes hair look a bit more detailed and less clumpy. If I’m drawing a portrait, then this is the most important step, but if it’s a loose doodle I only add two or three quick brushstrokes to simulate the texture.

As for curly hair types, I apply the same technique. The curliness comes down to the shape of the locks of hair: