Dany Wanders

Teotihuacan

Let me start off by saying, “wow”. You expect to be wowed when you go to see pyramids for the first time, but I was beyond awestruck. Three main structures framed the city: Pyramid of the Sun, Pyramid of the Moon and the Ciudadela. Each just as spectacular as the next.

As we walked the “Avenue of the Dead” and approached the Temple of the Sun (the largest structure in Teotihuacan and one of the largest in Mesoamerica) I was amazed that this massive pyramid was built in 100 BC. How did they do it? Was it aliens? Sorry I had a Giorgio Tsoukalos of Ancient Aliens fame.

The grounds were also significantly larger than I thought. Each step we took towards the pyramids, as the 34 degree sun beat down us, felt frivolous because it felt like we weren’t getting any closer to them.

After a few selfies, and 450+ steps later (approx. 66 metres high) we reached the top of the Pyramid of the Sun. The interesting part of climbing this pyramid was the height of each step. I had to take ¾ strides to climb each step, and I imagine this would have been even more difficult for the Aztecs, since I expect they were a lot smaller than I am. Later, I discovered that the steps were purposefully designed steeper and taller than normal steps so that anyone climbing the pyramids would almost have to crawl and lower their heads as a form of submission/reverence to the Gods.

The trek was worth the shortness of breath, because the views were breathtaking. You could really take in the vastness of the grounds and appreciate how the aliens built these pyramids. Haha kidding. But for me it was pretending I was a giant, and crushing the people below with my fingers. They all look like ants from up there, I couldn’t help myself.

The more I experience and learn about the history of Mexico (and of course sample all of its street food) the more I fall in love with this country. I almost wish my adventures didn’t have to end.

Until then, I will keep on wandering.

A Saturday in Mexico City

Except for my first few weeks here in Mexico City, I haven’t really explored the city. I’ve been too busy travelling around to neighbouring towns and other major cities, that I neglected Mexico’s capital. This Saturday I wanted to go out in Mexico City, but I didn’t want to do the typical tourist things. I scrapped the castle and museum idea, and decided to go on my own “tasting tour”.

When you think of Mexico, you think Tequila and Mezcal, and Mexico City has always been known for its Cantinas. But I had also heard that Mexico has been experiencing a similar craft beer explosion as Toronto. So I decided to taste Mexico, and I started at El Depósito for some Mexican Craft beers. I was pleasantly surprised by the quality of Mexico’s craft beers. Growing up with Corona and Sol, you get jaded by the mainstream brands, but I really enjoyed these beers.

After indulging in a few carbonated drinks, I felt it was best to refuel. And what better than tacos? Nothing will ever beat street tacos, but Taquería El Califa is the next best thing. The chelas got me hungry, and being Italian, I was born with eyes bigger than my stomach (it’s genetic). I proceeded to order the classics (al pastor, arrachera, chicharrón, chorizo, bisteca con queso, and a few El Califa specialties), and filled the entire table with tacos. I probably should have chosen my table more wisely because I was on display outside by the sidewalk, and judged by perplexed Mexican passers-by that this guy was going to eat all that food by myself. But I ate it all, Tribbiani style. 

I was full, but back on my feet, and ventured into Mezcaleria Alipús . Alipús was one of the first mezcals I discovered in Mexico, and I thought, what better way to pay homage to this fine spirit, than by going into its home and tasting them all. So, I proceeded to lead my own tasting. 

Alipús is a product line of traditionally-made, single-village mezcals created by the Los Danzantes group. Each expression highlights a different village and distiller, and is made by the local villagers. Del Maguey isn’t the only single village mezcal on the market. 

As I sampled each one, I began to make tasting notes, but my notes got progressively funnier as I made my way through the Alipús line-up and indulged in a few Pechuga mezcals. 

Alipús San Luis: Initial spicy notes that work well with its subtle fruitiness, but it has a strong finish. 

Alipús San Andres: Slightly smokier than the first. You can immediately taste the fruitiness of the agave. Very strong mezcal, but doesn’t overwhelm your palate. (My favourite of the line-up)

Alipús San Juan: Fruity with a slight sweetness. Complex earthy taste, but finishes smooth with just enough smoke to entice another sip.

Alipús San Baltazar: Does not smell smoky, but finishes and with a lot of smoke.  Sweet with a salty and lemony aroma. 

Los Danzantes Joven: Smokey, spicy, and tasty. Well-balanced herbal notes.  

Real Minero Pechuga: Smells like vanilla. Light smoke. Good.

Don Mateo Pechuga: Citrusy and earthy. It’s good too.

Pink one: No good. Tasting like Buckley’s.

I’m not sure if I just got lazy, or started to feel the effects of these mezcals, but its was a really fun way to spend a Saturday in Mexico City.

We continued my birthday festivities with a road trip to Tulum, the hippy’s Cancun. Tulum is starting to become the new “it” spot in Mexico, and rightfully so. Beautiful white sand beaches, gourmet restaurants, cocktail bars, and Mayan pyramids make this city a must-visit the next time you're considering a week in Cancun.

You can still find parties similar to those in Cancun, but Tulum offers a more authentic Mexican experience, and a chiller vibe. We were only in Tulum for the day, but we completed the perfect circuit, which I highly recommend. 

We started the morning by visiting the Tulum Ruins. Built by the ocean during the Mayan post-classic period, this city served as a seaport for the Mayans and a key trading hub. Although not as large as the Teotihuacán pyramids, they are equally as breathtaking.

We took a break from the history, and caught some rays on the beach. Taquria La Eufemia is a hidden gem in Tulum, the perfect spot to eat amazing fish tacos and have a few chelas. After refueling, we headed to a cenote (a sinkhole formed by the collapse of surface limestone exposing the ground water underneath). This was the highlight of the trip for me.

It was pitch black in there, and you could hear the screech of bats. But we grabbed our snorkeling gear and flashlights anyway, and headed in. As we emerged through the entrance, and stared out into the darkness with our meager flashlights, I felt like I was Harry Potter searching for a Horcrux Dumbledore. Limestone crystalline hanging from the ceiling and the eerie silence of still water recreated that scene for me. 

Then we returned to the strip for dinner at Hartwood. Go early or book a reservation because they fill up quickly. What makes them a must-try is that their menu changes daily. Each day they visit local markets and cook what they harvest, which makes for a unique experience and incredibly fresh food. To complete the circuit, we hit up Batey’s for cocktails, tequila and a few more chelas, before returning to Playa del Carmen.

 It was a full day, but totally worth it. Tulum has certainly stolen my heart!

Dany

I found myself yet again living abroad during a milestone year. In 2012 I was living in Nice, France, and now in 2017 I am living in Mexico City. This year I was joining the dirty thirty club, and contemplated ways to top my twenty-fifth.

For my 25th birthday, my roommates took me to Monte Carlo where we partied like rock stars at Jimmy’z. I don’t remember the exact bar bill, but it was north of €3,000 jaja. I didn’t think I could top a one-night party like Monte Carlo (unless I went to Vegas), but I figured a 3-day celebration in Mexico could match the madness. So I recruited a few co-workers, and the plan was set to head to Playa del Carmen and Tulum to bring in my big 3-0.

We arrived at our Airbnb, dropped off our bags, and immediately went to stock the fridge with supplies. We knew if we wanted to survive the weekend that beers, Gatorade and chips were a must. After “prepping for the evening”, we hopped in a cab for a quick dinner before the club. Unbeknownst to me, due to my novice level Spanish, Andrea and Jorge colluded to embarrass me by hooking up their phone and playing Happy Birthday ♫ in the Taxi (windows open and radio full blast) as the clock struck midnight driving down the strip in Playa del Carmen.

We then kicked off the celebrations at Abolengo Bartina. All their booths were taken, but once I told the hostess that we wanted a bottle of Rum and Champagne, they immediately proceeded to kick out these two American guys from their booth who only had a bucket of beer. A baller move, I know. Again, Andy leveraged her Spanish to embarrass me. She had the DJ give me a birthday shout out, and ran “Feliz Cumple Daniel” on the TV screen for the entire club to see. Needless to say, it was a really fun night, and I enjoyed turning 30 by acting like I was 20.

We continued the celebrations the next morning by getting a cabana at Mamita’s Beach Club. The hair of the dog was much needed that morning, and a few dips in the ocean brought us back to life. That night we went for dinner at La Bodeguita del Medio, the sister restaurant to the one in Cuba that Ernest Hemingway made famous with his beloved mojito. It’s been on my bucket list to go to Cuba and hit up the bars that Hemingway frequented. Have a mojito at La Bodeguita del Medio, and a daiquiri at La Floridita, but this was a close second. Live Cuban music, mojitos and moros y cristianos made for a real nice birthday dinner. And yet again, Andy found another way to embarrass me in the restaurant by having the band sing Happy Birthday ♫. But getting a free mojito and a shot of tequila made up for it.

Another bottle of champagne, and turning 30 was a success!

A six-hour bus ride later, we arrived in Guadalajara. It was tough saying goodbye to San Miguel de Allende, but the anticipation of our tequila tour in the morning quickly pushed it out of mind. And I felt like I was 4 years old again on my very first visit to Toys R’ Us with my grandparents. 

While I continued to check my watch, and wait for morning to arrive, we walked around Guadalajara to see the sights. All my coworkers told me how beautiful this city is, but when we got off the bus in Guadalajara Centro, I felt like I was walking through Parkdale in the ‘90s. So I turned my hat sideways, pulled my pants down at bit, and put my wallet in my front pocket. Just kidding, but I did start to walk a bit faster. 

As we continued to walk a few blocks I could see what all the fuss was about. Being in the birthplace of mariachi and tequila, I found myself again, lost in this country’s rich history and beautiful architecture. Four plazas surround a gorgeous cathedral at the heart of the city, and it stood out amongst the rest in the city’s incredible skyline. It did leave me with a tinge of jealously though, that we do not have anything similar in Canada.

But morning finally came, and we were off to Tequila. A little taco stand, so cleverly named “Tacos y Gorditas”, off the main roadway made for the perfect start to the day. Our tour guide, David, wanted to ensure that our bodies were well prepared for the influx of tequila we were about to put them through. 

The tour started with a walk through an agave field. Here our guide gave us an extensive history of the town of tequila, and the cultivation process of agave. I was surprised at how manual the process still is for planting and harvesting agave plants, but it only gave me a further appreciation for this fine spirit. 

As our thirst began to grow, we took a break from the heat, and popped into Jarritos for a Paloma and a shot of homemade tequila. We were then off to our first distillery, Tres Mujeres. A distillery named for the owners’ 3 daughters, conveniently leaving out his wife. Just saying...

David continued to impress us as we toured the facility, and learned about the tequila making process. The tour ended at a bar built in the caves where they store the tequila to be aged. Here he presented us with a structured tasting of the entire Tres Mujeres line up (blanco, reposado, añejo and extra añejo). I like to think my tequila knowledge is above average, but I had no idea how well each type of tequila paired with certain foods. Needless to say, tequila tastings will begin taking place in Toronto starting June 2017. Tickets now on sale.

After multiple “samples” it was time to make our way to the city centre of Tequila. As we exited the cave my eyes fell upon a signed photograph of my favourite actor, Steven Seagal. Maybe it was the tequila or maybe it was just my affection for how well Seagal can break someone’s neck, but I was so excited to see that picture hanging on the wall. It was the prefect ending to this tour, and for me, solidified the fact that our tour guide took us to an all-star distillery. 

When we arrived downtown Tequila we went to a local restaurant for an authentic Guadalajaran lunch, and a “few” more spots to try true artisanal tequila. I was impressed how well the city was able to maintain its local culture, but have buildings and shops built within it that served as marketing venues for the big liquor companies. But after our tour of the city, and more than a few impulse purchases later, it was time to complete our tour.

This day was one of my favourites in Mexico so far. I highly recommend anyone visiting Mexico, or Guadalajara specifically, to take a tequila tour. We took our tour with Mickey Marentes, and all the 5-Star reviews he has on his website are well deserved. Our guide was clearly passionate about tequila and extremely knowledgeable. I plan to go back to Tequila next month for another tour, likely the Jose Cuervo Express or Mickey’s Jeep Tour. 

But with that, I grab a glass of tequila and wish you well.