Building your skincare routine
If you frequent Youtube or Instagram, chances are you've been inundated with morning beauty routines and fancy products. Posts and videos tend to be complex or overwhelming for the skincare newbie; and, to complicate things even more, skincare regimens are incredibly personal and take a lot of trial and error to perfect. The following lists what your basic regimen should include, as well as links to articles/resources on the item.
Every routine has to have a cleanser; trouble is, there are a plethora of options on the market and some are not so great for your skin. When choosing a cleanser its important to consider two things: pH and surfactants. Here is why-
In case you can't remember your high school chemistry class, pH refers to a scale specifying how acidic or alkaline (read: opposite of acidic) a solution is. Your skin barrier, or the outer wall of your skin, should have a pH of around 5.5-6.5; and, therefore, skincare products should be around the same. If a product you use is too acidic or alkaline, it could produce catastrophic reactions (aka breakouts, irritation, inflammation). Your skincare should - by rule of thumb - fall in the 5-6.5 pH range, as this is the closest to your skin's natural pH
Surfactants refer to the cleansing elements/chemicals in the product you are using. All cleansing products need surfactants to work, but certain chemicals are better than others. In short, avoid products with harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate, or anything that looks like 'Sodium _ _ ate' (sodium laurate, sodium cocoate, sodium tallowate, etc.); and, instead, opt for products containing milder surfactants like sodium laureth sulfate (especially when combined with cocamidopropyl betaine), sodium cocoyl isethionate, alkyl sulfosuccinates, etc.
For much more detail about these two, check out the amazing Lab Muffin's post on the matter. Read here for more info.
I used to think I didn't need a toner, that is until I met active acids. There are an extensive amount of toning products on the market, but at minimum, your toner should balance the skin's pH and maintain a happy skin barrier. Active acids like glycolic acid restore skin pH while sloughing off dead skin cells. Other toners with ingredients like niacinamide and ceramide, reinforce the skin barrier - restoring any damage done during the cleansing stage. Here is another Lab Muffin post on how to use toners!
Like toners, the treatments and moisturizers you use should restore the skin barrier (maintain skin pH). Avoid products with fragrance and dyes; and, opt for treatments or moisturizers with ceramides, niacinamides, and fatty/amino acids (note, don't use niacinamide at the same time as active acids, instead use them at separate times of the day to avoid a chemical reaction). While somewhat counterintuitive, moisturizers should be water based, as water based products can permeate the outer wall and absorb. Follow water based moisturizers with oils to lock products in (I recommend squalane).
If you haven't seen the famous sun-exposed trucker picture, here you go: an article about it, and the actual image showing the importance of SPF -Â
If this doesn't inspire you to wear SPF, I am not sure what would. Besides reducing your risk of skin cancer, SPF protects the skin from wrinkle-producing radiation. Fight wrinkles with regular use of SPF!
While your regimen can include more steps and products, at minimum, it should include a cleanser, toner, moisturizer and sunscreen. When choosing products, always patch test and research, research, research. Keep in mind that what might work for me, may not work for you (we have different chemistry); and, limit your routine to what you are willing to keep up with - too many products or steps will most likely lead to abandonment of any sort of routine.