“Once I put myself in their skin, and get rid of all the onion skins, the levels between the inside and the outside, I feel I can then help create the bridge from the actor to the character. I did psychological studies on each of these characters. Lady Jessica is basically a concubine but a very intelligent one and a highly trained Benne Gesserit. Not only does she have a mystical side but she also has an intelligent, old soul side. I wanted her outfits to be both compellingly nun-like, but also appropriate for a courtesan, which is also what she is. I had to embody all of those somewhat contradictory things in her costumes.
So I went to Goya, who is one of my favorite painters. I’ve always felt there are two painters from the past who would be filmmakers if they lived today. One is Goya and the other is Giotto. I took from both of them — Giotto more for the nun-like Benne Gesserit; and more Goya for Lady Jessica, because there’s a deep, Spanish romanticism in his paintings, especially The Clothed Maja. That’s where I got the idea for the laced dress for her. I didn’t use Spanish lace, but I had a lace made that looked very much like the future, but with a real romantic touch from the past.” - Jacqueline West, Costume Designer on Dune
Rebecca Ferguson as Lady Jessica in Dune (2021) dir. Denis Villeneuve
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